The new news 24 thread

[andyberg]

20 minutes ago, IronStar said:

Park it, save £450, get it repaired when you can afford it, drive Safrane in the meantime? If £450 is unaffordable, car to replace it will be a liability with distinct possibility of grenading itself as soon as you get it. Better the devil you know and all that? 

Yeah I get where you are coming from. And it is a bloody good car apart from this. 
Thank you. A view from the outside helps. 

[IronStar]

On 27/10/2024 at 13:26, Yoss said:

There was a chap on Briskoda (a Škoda forum) in the Dominican Republic who had a Felicia with a carb and after asking around found out they sold them like that in a lot of places, Egypt springs to mind. I guess anywhere with more relaxed emissions laws. 

I was thinking about this, as we usually were prime dumping ground for that kind of shit, and sure enough 

This tanks my hopes of actually finding a fuel injected Favorit over here. If we got Felicia on carb, would they even bother bringing a fuel injected Favorit? Especially as Yugoslav wars were raging, as all the ones available seem to be just-as-war-started ‘91 ones. Keeping the eye on the classifieds in hopes of running into one. Alternatively, find a non-rusty Favorit and terminally rusty Felicia and do the magic of a swap? It’s the same car so should bolt right up? This would defeat the point of cheap + not a project though…. Swings and roundabouts.

[Wibble]

A mate has just, after much deliberation, pulled the trigger and bought this ST170:

Hopefully I’ll get a proper look at the weekend but it’s had a lot of work done and looks pretty decent.

[Sigmund Fraud]

32 minutes ago, andyberg said:

Yeah I get where you are coming from. And it is a bloody good car apart from this. 
Thank you. A view from the outside helps. 

I completely agree with @IronStar on this.

I know this is AS and we're all prone to the old "fallacy of investment", but I really don't think you can get anything comparable to the Jazz for the cost of the gearbox repair.

[Bear]

I fixed the Nissan Juke's heater fan. It was every bit as horrible as they say, except I think I can do it faster by ignoring the workshop manual.

 

[stripped fred]

I just bought one of these for the Micra. Looks like a quality item but worth a try. I like the idea of isolating the power. I don't expect it will last a long time though.

[Yoss]

1 hour ago, IronStar said:

I was thinking about this, as we usually were prime dumping ground for that kind of shit, and sure enough 

This tanks my hopes of actually finding a fuel injected Favorit over here. If we got Felicia on carb, would they even bother bringing a fuel injected Favorit? Especially as Yugoslav wars were raging, as all the ones available seem to be just-as-war-started ‘91 ones. Keeping the eye on the classifieds in hopes of running into one. Alternatively, find a non-rusty Favorit and terminally rusty Felicia and do the magic of a swap? It’s the same car so should bolt right up? This would defeat the point of cheap + not a project though…. Swings and roundabouts.

If you really are serious I would suggest just buying the best one you can find regardless of it's means of propulsion.

Yes anything under the bonnet of a Felicia can go in a Favorit. The mechanical bits will be a straight swap, it's the wiring that will complicate things. The Pierburg carb has a single 12v wire attached to it for the shut off valve when you switch the ignition off. The injected cars have an ECU which will have to be wired in. Personally that scares me more than any carburettor. Also the MPI Felicias over here all had immobilisers fitted which also went via the ECU so you couldn't just remove them. But if, as you suggest, you have a whole donor car it's not a problem as you can transfer the immobiliser over with ECU if you're proficient in these things. Plenty of people do, I've just never learnt all that sort of thing. I'm used to my Triumph where you can follow one wire from one end of the car to the other and see exactly where they all go. 

As I said, I had a bit of trouble with the carb when I bought it but I bought a rebuild kit, watched a YouTube video, rebuilt it then removed the thermostatic idle control and its been fine ever since. I've had it nearly eight years and it gets used  nearly every day. The first thing to check on them is the rubber mount between carb and manifold which perishes and let's air in. 

Personally I'm not sure the SPI is much improvement over the carb as it merely squirts petrol in to  the top of the inlet manifold just like a carb does. The MPI set up is a whole different ball game as it also does away with the distributor in favour of coil packs as well as the multi point injection itself. So if you were going to do it that's the one to go for. 

But I'd still just buy the best one you can find regardless especially if it is one of the higher spec cars with the nicer seats and front fog lights and alloy wheels and stuff. I don't know the designations over there, again they varied from one country to another.

Here the mk1 went L, LX, LS all available with either the 135 or 136 engine. The 135 being the low compression 54hp one which is best avoided. 

The mk2 went LXi, GLXi and Flairline again, as previously mentioned with a small e to designate the 136 engine. 

There's plenty, relatively speaking, for sale in ČZ which is a lot closer to you than us but probably still not viable, I don't know what sort of hoops you'd have to jump through to import cars to Serbia. 

[IronStar]

6 minutes ago, Yoss said:

If you really are serious I would suggest just buying the best one you can find regardless of it's means of propulsion.

Yes anything under the bonnet of a Felicia can go in a Favorit. The mechanical bits will be a straight swap, it's the wiring that will complicate things. The Pierburg carb has a single 12v wire attached to it for the shut off valve when you switch the ignition off. The injected cars have an ECU which will have to be wired in. Personally that scares me more than any carburettor. Also the MPI Felicias over here all had immobilisers fitted which also went via the ECU so you couldn't just remove them. But if, as you suggest, you have a whole donor car it's not a problem as you can transfer the immobiliser over with ECU if you're proficient in these things. Plenty of people do, I've just never learnt all that sort of thing. I'm used to my Triumph where you can follow one wire from one end of the car to the other and see exactly where they all go. 

As I said, I had a bit of trouble with the carb when I bought it but I bought a rebuild kit, watched a YouTube video, rebuilt it then removed the thermostatic idle control and its been fine ever since. I've had it nearly eight years and it gets used  nearly every day. The first thing to check on them is the rubber mount between carb and manifold which perishes and let's air in. 

Personally I'm not sure the SPI is much improvement over the carb as it merely squirts petrol in to  the top of the inlet manifold just like a carb does. The MPI set up is a whole different ball game as it also does away with the distributor in favour of coil packs as well as the multi point injection itself. So if you were going to do it that's the one to go for. 

But I'd still just buy the best one you can find regardless especially if it is one of the higher spec cars with the nicer seats and front fog lights and alloy wheels and stuff. I don't know the designations over there, again they varied from one country to another.

Here the mk1 went L, LX, LS all available with either the 135 or 136 engine. The 135 being the low compression 54hp one which is best avoided. 

The mk2 went LXi, GLXi and Flairline again, as previously mentioned with a small e to designate the 136 engine. 

There's plenty, relatively speaking, for sale in ČZ which is a lot closer to you than us but probably still not viable, I don't know what sort of hoops you'd have to jump through to import cars to Serbia. 

Thanks for all the info! 

I have absolutely terrible experiences and luck with carburetors which is why I’m shying away from them. They always seem to emit that old car stench, because seemingly no one has the right gear to accurately tune them (lambdas, intake air measurement, all the jazz), have random decisions not to play along, this is all being exacerbated by absolute neglect thrown upon these cars for the past number of years, resulting in a need of a full rebuild, or in many cases making the carbs beyond saving, for example if (improperly) drilled for LPG installation. General quality of parts and their availability, let alone number of places that will take a look at a car with carbs, have an idea how it works, or will want to bother with them is not great, and will only get worse. 
There’s no shortage of places that will test or rebuild your injectors, rebuild an ECU, delete an immobilizer, or any other fuel injection bit of the system though. They seem to deal much better with general neglect as they’re not as sensitive precisely machined mechanical parts getting gunked up and failing, and no provision for a backyard hillbilly mechanic to fuck them up as easily by drilling them, rounding off screws, warping them by thinning the mixture too much, and all the other joys* associated.

Importing would be an absolute nightmare (and would it even be worth it at this price point even if I could?).

I think they were badged differently here, but 135/136 designations are the same. I’ll keep an eye out on a 136, and see if I can snag one in decent nick for buttons, or at least get a test drive so I can get an idea of what it’s like. Not going to look super actively, but if something comes my way, I’ll give it a whirl. I’ll tell a few friends who spend stupid amounts of time flicking through cars for sale I’m looking for something, so they might run into one for me as well. 

[Yoss]

11 minutes ago, IronStar said:

Thanks for all the info! 

I have absolutely terrible experiences and luck with carburetors which is why I’m shying away from them. They always seem to emit that old car stench, because seemingly no one has the right gear to accurately tune them (lambdas, intake air measurement, all the jazz), have random decisions not to play along, this is all being exacerbated by absolute neglect thrown upon these cars for the past number of years, resulting in a need of a full rebuild, or in many cases making the carbs beyond saving, for example if (improperly) drilled for LPG installation. General quality of parts and their availability, let alone number of places that will take a look at a car with carbs, have an idea how it works, or will want to bother with them is not great, and will only get worse. 
There’s no shortage of places that will test or rebuild your injectors, rebuild an ECU, delete an immobilizer, or any other fuel injection bit of the system though. They seem to deal much better with general neglect as they’re not as sensitive precisely machined mechanical parts getting gunked up and failing, and no provision for a backyard hillbilly mechanic to fuck them up as easily by drilling them, rounding off screws, warping them by thinning the mixture too much, and all the other joys* associated.

Importing would be an absolute nightmare (and would it even be worth it at this price point even if I could?).

I think they were badged differently here, but 135/136 designations are the same. I’ll keep an eye out on a 136, and see if I can snag one in decent nick for buttons, or at least get a test drive so I can get an idea of what it’s like. Not going to look super actively, but if something comes my way, I’ll give it a whirl. I’ll tell a few friends who spend stupid amounts of time flicking through cars for sale I’m looking for something, so they might run into one for me as well. 

Fair enough, they are all valid points I guess. I'll just wait and see what happens then. 

[andyberg]

8 hours ago, Sigmund Fraud said:

I completely agree with @IronStar on this.

I know this is AS and we're all prone to the old "fallacy of investment", but I really don't think you can get anything comparable to the Jazz for the cost of the gearbox repair.

I have had a sleep. I’ll see if there is anywhere local that can do the repair and see how much they will charge. I’ll do as @IronStar says and park it up for a bit and see if I can save the money after my holiday.  @Sigmund Fraud it is a perfectly capable car and does exactly what I bought it for. 

[Volksy]

Jizzes are known for failing input shaft bearings on the Mk1

Honda didn't recall these, although they did recall Jizzes for everything else, Airbags, Window Switches etc - I know as I had one. 

They did produce an uprated bearing kit (Part: 91002-PMW-305) but it does involve gearbox removal, so probably doesn't help.

+1 on mothballing until you can find a cheap box/cheaper Mechanic - provided it's not rotting away - Mine despite being garaged from new and only having covered 21k when I got it had pretty bad corrosion on all the suspension and it was creeping up the arches. To the point that to remove any nuts, it was easy to crumble them with a set of bolt cutters rather than even try and undo them.

 

[richardmorris]

https://rmsothebys.com/auctions/lf24/lots/r0068-1973-ferrari-dino-246-gts-by-scaglietti/

[Split_Pin]

£80 for the DPF from the Audi and £10 for the Bosch CP3 HP diesel pump out the 75.

Good times!

[egg]

Ex @purplebargekenand @Kiltox i10 passed it's 5th MOT under our ownership today. Only 800 miles this year!!

Advisories on ARB bushes/ball joints - which mechanic is going to look at next week, he'll also do an oil change for me as I've spent the last 6 months pretending I'm going to do it.

No recent pics (cos white goods) but will bring up when @worldofceribrought it over to us from Gloucester during the pandemic.

[Kiltox]

What a great little motor. Barely needed anything in my ownership either. 

[reb]

I got a small amount of tinkering mojo back today.

When @Angrydickycame to pick up the roffle honda moped, I tried to start the V70 so he could hear the 5 pot in action. Even with the jump pack it just wouldn't go. I determined this to be because the battery earth clamp wasn't clamping due to a snapped bolt. I put that in the "deal with later" pile.

Fast forward to today, and I think "no matter, I will just rob the same bolt from the 850"

No dice. Completely different design.

Bank account empty and thinking cap on, I recalled there being an extra bolt with the coat rack I built the other night. I knew exactly where I'd chucked that, so I retrieved it. It fit the clamp perfectly. Just needed a nut now, which I was able to rob from a fitting on a post on the 850s clamp. Perfect.

However, still not clamping, obviously something wrong. I delved into generations of shoestring motoring knowledge and remembered a cheeky wood screw can alleviate this! Into the bag of leftover screws from amazon furniture, a little stubby woodscrew was found. Screwed it in. All seems tight now.

Jump pack on, press the magic dead battery button... turn the key... started like it had been sat a day not months!

It's a bodge, but it'll do for a three figure Volvo.

Quite pleased with myself if I'm honest.

[Rust Collector]

4 minutes ago, reb said:

I got a small amount of tinkering mojo back today.

When @Angrydickycame to pick up the roffle honda moped, I tried to start the V70 so he could hear the 5 pot in action. Even with the jump pack it just wouldn't go. I determined this to be because the battery earth clamp wasn't clamping due to a snapped bolt. I put that in the "deal with later" pile.

Fast forward to today, and I think "no matter, I will just rob the same bolt from the 850"

No dice. Completely different design.

Bank account empty and thinking cap on, I recalled there being an extra bolt with the coat rack I built the other night. I knew exactly where I'd chucked that, so I retrieved it. It fit the clamp perfectly. Just needed a nut now, which I was able to rob from a fitting on a post on the 850s clamp. Perfect.

However, still not clamping, obviously something wrong. I delved into generations of shoestring motoring knowledge and remembered a cheeky wood screw can alleviate this! Into the bag of leftover screws from amazon furniture, a little stubby woodscrew was found. Screwed it in. All seems tight now.

Jump pack on, press the magic dead battery button... turn the key... started like it had been sat a day not months!

It's a bodge, but it'll do for a three figure Volvo.

Quite pleased with myself if I'm honest.

The self tapper trick is handy, my Mitsubishi still has the positive cable connected that way after at least a couple of years.

The proper* fix I’ve found is to file down the mating faces of the part of the clamp that the bolt goes through, but that means walking into the garage and picking up a file.

[reb]

1 minute ago, Rust Collector said:

The self tapper trick is handy, my Mitsubishi still has the positive cable connected that way after at least a couple of years.

The proper* fix I’ve found is to file down the mating faces of the part of the clamp that the bolt goes through, but that means walking into the garage and picking up a file.

I'm working with limited tools at the house, I think the extent of what I have here is a 1/4" bahco socket set, shit needlenose pliers, and a lump hammer.

I might fix it properly one day... if it passes its next MOT.

[tooSavvy]

24 minutes ago, Rust Collector said:

The self tapper trick is handy, my Mitsubishi still has the positive cable connected that way after at least a couple of years.

The proper* fix I’ve found is to file down the mating faces of the part of the clamp that the bolt goes through, but that means walking into the garage and picking up a file.

In the history of the world.... Anyone figure why a battery connection should have been *like an upturned teacup and a self tapper through the centre 🔩🙄

🚙💨

[richardmorris]

1967 Rolls-Royce Phantom V Touring Limousine by James Young | London 2024 | RM Sotheby's

[richardmorris]

1952 Bentley Mark VI Drophead Foursome Coupé by Mulliners of Birmingham | London 2024 | RM Sotheby's

[richardmorris]

[richardmorris]

1958 Bentley S1 Continental Drophead Coupé by Park Ward | London 2024 | RM Sotheby's

£750-950K!

 

 

 

£150K series1! 1951 Land Rover Series I 'Reborn' | London 2024 | RM Sotheby's

[richardmorris]

Royal land rover

[SiC]

20 hours ago, andyberg said:

Jazz news🙁 the bearing noise that only affected 1st to 3rd is now evident in all gears and at idle  with the clutch up. I think it’s terminal. Gearchange is still smooth and clean, but the noise is definitely much worse. To the point where I’m thinking it’s going to go pop at any moment. I knew all about the noise before I bought it so it no reflection on @Sigmund Fraud at all, it’s just one of those things. It could have gone on for years more. I don’t have the funds to get it repaired. Scrappy price is about £160 so I’ll sleep on it and make a decision in the morning. It’s a shame because it’s really a fab little thing, comfy, roomy and sips fuel. 
Looks like the Safrane will be moved to daily duties. 

I seem to remember our resident , former Honda tech @twosmoke300 having some tricks to speed up that job and make it easier.

[Lord Sterling]

5 hours ago, egg said:

Ex @purplebargekenand @Kiltox i10 passed it's 5th MOT under our ownership today. Only 800 miles this year!!

Advisories on ARB bushes/ball joints - which mechanic is going to look at next week, he'll also do an oil change for me as I've spent the last 6 months pretending I'm going to do it.

No recent pics (cos white goods) but will bring up when @worldofceribrought it over to us from Gloucester during the pandemic.

Ah yes, I've been a passenger in this car when @purplebargekenpicked me up from somewhere in London to go and pick up the Alfa 156 estate @Cavcraft bought some years ago. That 156 5-pot was a nice sounding motor.

[r.welfare]

RIP, old girl - off to ASM at Thame.  Mind, at least I can get the SLK out again.

[richardmorris]

@Three Speedis trying to push a traction on me. I am keen, but neither of my mechanics seem to be. More shabby, shabby than shabby-chic. But FREE! Chris says it drove up to be on the NEC Club stand not too long ago.
anyone able to collect a non-running car on Saturday?

[artdjones]

I went around to help a friend with his Yaris last week. I couldn't resist taking a picture of this 94 106, which I've known since it was about 10 years old. To my certain knowledge it's been sat in various positions in this field for9 or 10 years. But still without any rot. 

[grogee]

19 hours ago, stripped fred said:

I just bought one of these for the Micra. Looks like a quality item but worth a try. I like the idea of isolating the power. I don't expect it will last a long time though.

I bought one. It broke within about six months. I've replaced it with an old fashioned manual quick disconnect thing. 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.