Project Dollywobbler's Invacar - Ongoing

[Zelandeth]

I imagine the "don't weld this exhaust" rule is on account of the heat exchanger and fact that air from there goes to the cabin. If the outer has corroded through, there's a good chance the heat exchanger isn't in A1 condition either. Not maybe a bad idea to stick a CO alarm in the cabin somewhere out of sight just in case. I'd planned to do that with the T25.

[dollywobbler]

Are you still supposed to still run with the condenser with TAC ignition? I thought the box of tricks has it in there.

 

No option not to here. I agree with you, but there was nothing in the instructions to say 'do away with the condenser,' and it's require a fair bit of rewiring, as the coil feed connects to the condenser wire on the outside of the dizzy, and the points connect to the condenser wire on the inside.

 

EDIT - actually, the more detailed instructions online say that you leave everything in place, so you can simply turn the unit off, and everything should still work.

[Dick Cheeseburger]

Just a thought, but if the heat exchanger turns out to be rotten, would it be worth getting a custom exhaust made up in stainless, but with no heat exchanger? It’d be much cheaper and quicker to produce, you could run an electric heater in the cabin, and you wouldn’t need to worry about monoxide poisoning at every whip and flip.

[dollywobbler]

That's been discussed previously, but given this car's importance, I'd really like to keep it as original-spec as possible. I could whip the electronic ignition off in no time, but otherwise, I'm leaving it as standard as I can.

 

Also, electric heaters are monumentally shit. 2CVs have heat exchangers, so I've been living with danger since I was 18. I'm not poisoned yet. I can't see me clocking up a lot of winter miles to be honest. 

[Dick Cheeseburger]

Fair dinkum. May still be worth chatting to a stainless guru and pricing up a stainless replacement for the whole caboodle.

[tooSavvy]

Does this show an 'enthusiastic' 50 up ??

 

https://youtu.be/1DM9bxXUQzU

 

 

TS

*apolz if already up here

[Zelandeth]

Wonder what's become of that one.  No MOT history it seems.

[dollywobbler]

Yes, I believe it does. I can't wait to try a 0-60mph run.

 

Further progress today, as I took the exhaust off and painted it. I put some magic goo on a small hole, then wrapped it in ally tape, then painted the lot.

 

I did also experiment with the spares car. Would it run? No.

 

This car has been cannibalised more than I thought, and someone has had half the carburettor away, as well as the throttle linkage. I did chuck a battery on though, which proved that a single front sidelight works, and that the engine turns on the Dynastart. Game over.

[tooSavvy]

There is another Utoob 'from a different angle' Invacar..

 

Shows the tranni cones moving in/out.. a la DAF.. KoolAs

 

 

TS

[barefoot]

This lot will probably be able to build you an exhaust from their pattern book.

 

http://www.pdgough.com

[Zelandeth]

Well at least you know the engine isn't seized in the second one, which would have been the biggest single headache I imagine.

 

Don't imagine missing things like carb or ignition system bits would put off too many potential future takers given the engine seems reasonably well supported.

[dollywobbler]

In other news, the exhaust is now refitted. I then set about trying to get the fuel tank out, but I think it's one of those things they fitted before putting the body on. 

 

So, I got my cheap Ebay borescope out and had a peek inside the tank.

 

It seems lovely in there! Some paint flakes, but nowt too troubling. Because the fuel hose had split just after the tank, there was no evaporation to leave horrible gunk inside the tank. This is good news. I may try and flush some bits out, but really I'm just going to fit a new fuel line, with a big in-line filter.

 

Incidentally, there are no hose clips ANYWHERE on the fuel system. It's all just push fit and hope for the best. No wonder they kept catching fire!

[Zelandeth]

The lack of fuel hose clips is moderately terrifying!

[purplebargeken]

Cheap boroscope deets pleeze!

[dollywobbler]

I can't find the exact one, but it cost a tenner from Ebay. Doesn't work with my phone (my Oppo phone is a pain in the arse for this sort of thing) but does work with the laptop thankfully.

 

Anyway, this evening, I've plumbed in a new fuel line from tank to fuel pump, added hose clips at every joint and fitted an in-line filter. I fitted that nearer the tank than the carb, so I hope that works ok. Thought it best to keep it away from engine heat. I also blasted a lot of nasty shit out of the carburettor with carb cleaner. 

 

As I can't run the engine at the moment, I decided to paint the oil filter housing as well. 

 

Next job to do while I can't do anything else is to find out why the indicators don't work. I can't find an indicator relay, which seems to me like something that's pretty necessary. Unless it's built into the stalk. May have to consult a wiring diagram.

[Slartibartfast]

Maybe you're supposed to just flap the lever up and down to the appropriate rhythm

[tooSavvy]

I like the 'zz-zippy' fuel clamp clips - usually white nylon and just slide on/squeeze 'zzz' zip up tight

 

TS

[dollywobbler]

Maybe you're supposed to just flap the lever up and down to the appropriate rhythm

 

Maybe, but I can't get the indicators to light up at all.

[Zelandeth]

Most likely a 2-pin thermal flasher relay. Could quite possibly be hiding in the stalk housing given the size of it...or failing that it will be a matter of following wires, there must be one somewhere!

[Timewaster]

I like the 'zz-zippy' fuel clamp clips - usually white nylon and just slide on/squeeze 'zzz' zip up tight

 

TS

Great to fit. Impossible to remove.

 

Like most non jubilee style clips.

[dollywobbler]

Most likely a 2-pin thermal flasher relay. Could quite possibly be hiding in the stalk housing given the size of it...or failing that it will be a matter of following wires, there must be one somewhere!

 

Ah-ha. There are two loose wires beneath the dashboard. Sadly, the spares car also seems to have a matching pair of bare wires. Maybe I'll risk connecting them to see if I get life.

[SiC]

Do the indicators do anything at all? I.e. don't light up.

 

If you replace the flasher, make sure you keep it as a thermal one! The delay from the first flash to the second and varying flash rates depending on the battery charge is very much part of the charm.

[dollywobbler]

Paperclip bodge worked!

 

Oh...

 

Ok. Indicators at one end at least. No idea what's going on at the back end. Sidelights work both sides, brake lights work both sides, indicators work neither side. 

[mat_the_cat]

Anyway, this evening, I've plumbed in a new fuel line from tank to fuel pump, added hose clips at every joint and fitted an in-line filter. I fitted that nearer the tank than the carb, so I hope that works ok. Thought it best to keep it away from engine heat. I also blasted a lot of nasty shit out of the carburettor with carb cleaner. 

 

It may be worth fitting a coarse, mesh style filter closer to the tank, followed by the finer paper filter. That way the paper filter will last much longer before clogging - although from the sounds of things that may not be much of a risk.

[Zelandeth]

It is a glass fibre car... wouldn't be right without a heap of dodgy earths to track down would it?

[st185cs]

Ian - so this is the place to hear all about your endeavours with TWC - seems RUMCars’ interest is very thin which is a shame...

 

Exhaust - talk to me if the repair doesn’t hold up, my lightly used/used stock will gladly come to the rescue without risk of filling the cab with carbon monoxide.

 

Flasher - it can often be found bolted underneath and tucked out the way on the upper lip the plastic dashboard, nearside end. However, in most cases it would have failed many years back, abandoned and replaced with a new in-line type.

 

Looking forward to the next instalment.

 

Mark

[dollywobbler]

Ian - so this is the place to hear all about your endeavours with TWC - seems RUMCars’ interest is very thin which is a shame...

 

Exhaust - talk to me if the repair doesn’t hold up, my lightly used/used stock will gladly come to the rescue without risk of filling the cab with carbon monoxide.

 

Flasher - it can often be found bolted underneath and tucked out the way on the upper lip the plastic dashboard, nearside end. However, in most cases it would have failed many years back, abandoned and replaced with a new in-line type.

 

Looking forward to the next instalment.

 

Mark

 

Thanks Mark. Good to see you here. For those who don't know, Mark also rescued a number of the Invacars from that magical field.

 

I'll have another look for the relay, but suspect it's been pinched. The wires were dangling down looking a bit lost. Keeping my fingers crossed about the exhaust, but I'll let you know if I'm in trouble!

[beko1987]

Won't a landrover/2cv relay fix the indicators? Surely it can't be more than 20 minutes work to just run new wires to every light and re do it would it? Especially since you can reach both ends with your own arms at the same time...

[dollywobbler]

Won't a landrover/2cv relay fix the indicators? Surely it can't be more than 20 minutes work to just run new wires to every light and re do it would it? Especially since you can reach both ends with your own arms at the same time...

 

2CV has a three-pin relay. A Land Rover one should do the trick, but I really, REALLY want the proper thermal type so I get the different flash rates.

 

I'll investigate the wiring tomorrow if I get chance. 

[plasticvandan]

If you get stuck,I'm pretty certain I have some of the correct tin relays from my reliant days kicking about