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Dollywobbler's Invacar - Ongoing


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Posted

Have to wonder why you didn't clean the carb before... Just a thought but if you have one of those tyre powered easy bleed kits one of those screwed on the master with some air behind it might show up where the leak is?

Posted

try some fuel cleaner again and then take it apart again to clean.  Any O rings that could be a bit past there best?

Posted

Oil leak:

 

Mine actually seems to seep out through the dipstick itself where the hook goes into the body - there must be a pinhole in there.  It then drips onto the fuel line.  It's not doing the same on yours is it?

 

Intrigued that your air cleaner is about three times the size of the one on my engine...Also good to hear that the carb cleaning seems to have resolved a lot of the issues there, good incentive for me to get mine apart and cleaned.

Posted

Have to wonder why you didn't clean the carb before... Just a thought but if you have one of those tyre powered easy bleed kits one of those screwed on the master with some air behind it might show up where the leak is?

 

I did clean it before, but, because I was looking at the wrong diagram, I hadn't found the main jet...

 

Good call on the brake bleeder. Wonder where I put mine? Alternatively, a trolley jack on the handlebars adds system pressure quite nicely. I have confirmed it doesn't leak without brake application.

 

 

try some fuel cleaner again and then take it apart again to clean.  Any O rings that could be a bit past there best?

 

Not that I can find. There's still some fuel cleaner in the tank, if it makes any difference at all.

 

 

Oil leak:

 

Mine actually seems to seep out through the dipstick itself where the hook goes into the body - there must be a pinhole in there.  It then drips onto the fuel line.  It's not doing the same on yours is it?

 

Intrigued that your air cleaner is about three times the size of the one on my engine...Also good to hear that the carb cleaning seems to have resolved a lot of the issues there, good incentive for me to get mine apart and cleaned.

 

It's definitely from the filler. I can see where it runs down over the pump, then gathers at the bottom. I think this is the standard air filter size. Same on both cars. With the carb, the main jet is on the forward face of the carb, and is secured by a 10mm bolt head. Easy enough to do with the carb in-situ now I know.

Posted

Nice bit of progress, could the master cylinder be borked?

Posted

Nice bit of progress, could the master cylinder be borked?

 

I hope not. It's brand new. Assuming I fitted the right one...

Posted

Making the most of having two Model 70s at the moment too. Hopefully I'll be down to just one soon... The neighbours will be pleased.

DasK9eHXcAMFlAq.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

Giving it a decent burial in the garden?

  • Like 2
Posted

Turn it into a trailer and have a push me , pull you combination?

  • Like 2
Posted

Only got one photo of the carb from the bulkhead side...but yep, the bolt hiding the jet is clearly visible

 

post-21985-0-31378000-1523654104_thumb.jpg

 

Will pull that out and give it a good clean shortly... I've had the top cover off and given what was accessible from there a clean through - but until you mentioned it I had no idea that one was there...

 

Curious what the story with the little and large air cleaners is...restriction on power output for a less able driver?

 

I really need to get off my lazy tail and get a full engine gasket set ordered in from Haflinger...aside from the apparent pinhole in the dipstick cap itself mine is astonishingly oil-tight - but I want to do stuff like clean out the oil pickup strainer, and know it won't stay oil-tight once I start pulling it to bits!

  • Like 2
Posted

Are you going to swap the roof's?

 

No. Sticking with the one fitted. Seems to do the job.

  • Like 3
Posted

Just wondering if the oil filler has a tiny hole or damaged/warped mating surface preventing a good seal.

Posted

Just wondering if the oil filler has a tiny hole or damaged/warped mating surface preventing a good seal.

 

Had a good look this morning and couldn't see anything amiss. Have put my faith in blue hylomar. Will report back...

 

The master cylinder issue is baffling me. This morning, the underside of the master cylinder itself was damp. Well, there are only two possible sources for that - either the reservoir, or the main brake connector. I've nipped up the latter, so I'll just have to see how it goes. Given the reservoir is on the non-pressured side, I can't believe that's to blame. Nonetheless, even just a short drive last night was enough to take it from full to just above DANGER. Might keep a bottle in the car...

Posted

Possible that the casting itself is porous?

Posted

Brake fluid being forced out the top of the reservoir? I've had it hapen before with overfilled systems.

Posted

Possible that the casting itself is porous?

 

No idea. Guess that's possible.

 

 

Brake fluid being forced out the top of the reservoir? I've had it hapen before with overfilled systems.

 

That wouldn't explain the dropping level. I'm filling up to the correct line, but it's dropping pretty swiftly in use. Not dropping if left standing.

Posted

Brake fluid being forced out the top of the reservoir? I've had it hapen before with overfilled systems.

I was going to suggest this

Posted

Just saw the latest invacar video :)

 

ah yes TWC sounds much happier now, I was quite impressed to see it manage to climb that hill, with no belt slippage too! :) (Love the "DONT PANIC" on the door at the end of the video too :) ) imagine taking TWC to one of those "dyno day" type events... set the low horse power record? 

 

has Mrs DW "road tested" TWC yet? if so whats the verdict?  :mrgreen:

Posted

No, Mrs DW has not had a drive yet. She does want to. Almost.

 

So, I nipped up the brake line feed. Didn't turn much, but it did turn, and now fluid seems to be staying where it should be. Sadly, oil is still falling out of the sodding thing! I'm just back from a 45-mile drive, which was hard work. Goes well, but the oil pressure light has started coming on at idle again, which, I can tell you, is a nightmare in a car like this around town. It required some serious co-ordination to try and keep the revs high enough to keep the light off while also not crashing. My shoulders are now seriously aching, so I either need to get stronger, or sort out a handlebar return spring. 

 

Pics to follow. Here's a teaser.

DawCiqfX0AAyNV3.jpg

  • Like 8
Posted

When I had the oil light coming on at idle in a Panda 750 the only cure was a new oil pump, could you swap it for the one on the other engine and see if it cures it?

Posted

When I had the oil light coming on at idle in a Panda 750 the only cure was a new oil pump, could you swap it for the one on the other engine and see if it cures it?

 

That seems a rather drastic and invasive step. 

Posted

Are you sure it is 100% meant to be off at idle? Its quite common for old cars to have the light illuminate when on idle. My Anglia did it all the time before i fitted the Nissan engine but thats another story. Im sure its in the ford handbook saying its normal so long as it goes out with increased revs. Personally it wouldn't worry me but not familiar with these engines. Well done with progress though.

Posted

That seems a rather drastic and invasive step. 

Depends on how oil pump is fitted, I would imagine on TWC it would be a lot simpler than on the FIRE engine.

Posted

Here's another one.

DawlJTKWsAgSNwk.jpg

 

This one is pretty terrible.

30712774_10156358511173200_2785578838858

 

EDIT - Had a play with the levels. Almost an ok picture.

Dawm6sXX4AAfQ7L.jpg

  • Like 5
Posted

Sorry but oil light on at low revs means it is most likely main bearing wear. Engine out and rebuild time unfortunatly. It isn't going to get any better so time to bite the bullet I'm afraid

Posted

i think we're ready for the death race: in the 2cv- Mrs Wobbly vs in the AC m70 Mr Wobbly

 

 

although we all know Rachel will kick him to the kerb lol

  • Like 3
Posted

Sorry but oil light on at low revs means it is most likely main bearing wear. Engine out and rebuild time unfortunatly. It isn't going to get any better so time to bite the bullet I'm afraid

 

That I could believe if it was consistent, but it really isn't. We drove 20 miles today with it behaving exactly as it should.

 

I'm going to change the sender first and monitor the situation. Looking at the manual, it does actually cover such an eventuality, and suggests a mushroom-headed thingumy in the oil pump might need reprofiling. I hope that isn't necessary. I've got barely any tinkering time between now and mid-June, which is getting a bit close to July...

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