Noel Tidybeard Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 fnar, fnar, fnar it says FLAPS arf, arf, arf purplebargeken and 4wheeledstool 2
fordperv Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 This is going to be a heart breaker when it's finished, I don't think they came this good from the factory, what are you using to remove the paint?
4wheeledstool Posted May 1, 2016 Author Posted May 1, 2016 This is going to be a heart breaker when it's finished, I don't think they came this good from the factory, what are you using to remove the paint?Thank you kindly Mr.Fordperv! I'm using a combination of poly abrasive discs, wire wheels and drill attachments. It's slow going, but paint strippers don't appear to be much use on it! Boot lid finished off today - Made a start on the bonnet - this has been resprayed at some point, and is a pig to strip! It's gonna take some time! danthecapriman, Cavcraft, Banger Kenny and 4 others 7
4wheeledstool Posted May 2, 2016 Author Posted May 2, 2016 Several hours later - the easy side is done! Sudsprint, Cavcraft, outlaw118 and 6 others 9
4wheeledstool Posted May 5, 2016 Author Posted May 5, 2016 Finished the other side of the bonnet today - just need to remove the catch, then take the paint off its bracket. The end of paint removal is in sight! Dick Cheeseburger, Sudsprint, John F and 5 others 8
4wheeledstool Posted May 7, 2016 Author Posted May 7, 2016 Some nice new parts arrived this morning from a bloke called Peter. New indicator units, badges, badge grommets, washer bottle, door pull surrounds and a fuel flap. Theres nothing wrong with the fuel flap that came with the car, but now I can keep hold of the original one to remind me how ruined the paint was. agw9262, danthecapriman, anonymous user and 7 others 10
4wheeledstool Posted May 7, 2016 Author Posted May 7, 2016 After searching for a correct spring compressor for some time, I decided to try and rebuild my front suspension without one. Someone on the Retro Rides forum said it was possible to do it with the threaded bar and hooks type tool - I can tell you, after 6 hours struggling, modifying tools, and more struggling - it is not. Lowering springs could be compressed enough, but not the standard length ones. If anyone has the correct tool, I'd be incredibly grateful if I could borrow/hire it. I just can't fathom a way of doing it without fabricating a copy of the original tool. This would obviously cost a lot more time. Cavcraft 1
John F Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 Coil spring compressors are dirt cheap, just do a search for them on ebay.
4wheeledstool Posted May 7, 2016 Author Posted May 7, 2016 Nothing available for sale is of any use - it needs a specific tool. I'll put up a picture of one later. John F 1
4wheeledstool Posted May 7, 2016 Author Posted May 7, 2016 The upper wishbone stops any spring compressor designed for a McPherson strut from being any use. The spring needs to be compressed onto the bottom arm, then the arm and spring are fitted together as one unit with the compressor. When the ball joints are done up, the compressor is removed. Banger Kenny 1
4wheeledstool Posted May 8, 2016 Author Posted May 8, 2016 Ratchet strap?Thought about that, but don't see how I can keep the spring squarely on the arm whilst ratcheting? Got some painted pieces back today, so I plonked the wings on for a look - They'll have to go back for rectification though, there's a couple of places where the paint has been polished right through on the top edge that faces the bonnet. The doors aren't too bad, just need to finish off the polishing when they're back on the car. oldcars, vulgalour, agw9262 and 14 others 17
michael1703 Posted May 8, 2016 Posted May 8, 2016 I can't see why you couldn't use standard spring compressors on that spring
4wheeledstool Posted May 8, 2016 Author Posted May 8, 2016 I can't see why you couldn't use standard spring compressors on that springWhen the spring is in place, the top wishbone comes down either side of the spring. A standard spring compressor would prevent the top wishbone from being fitted - and the top wishbone has to be in place to do up the upper and lower ball joints to the hub carrier. Basicly, the upper wishbone, and lower arm are both in the way - if a standard spring compressor would do the job, it'd have been done months ago. Banger Kenny 1
purplebargeken Posted May 8, 2016 Posted May 8, 2016 No-one in the Vauxhall lickers club got one to lend? Tis a bit of a ball ache.
4wheeledstool Posted May 8, 2016 Author Posted May 8, 2016 Blue is the colour! That looks amazing.Cheers! Should be half decent once the polishing is finished. No-one in the Vauxhall lickers club got one to lend? Tis a bit of a ball ache.Someone in the club has one, and has offered to lend it to me, but has lent it to someone who he can't contact to get it back. The offer to lend it to me was made in February, and I'm still waiting! It's gonna get to a point in the next month or so when it becomes a proper ball ache. I could smash it together with brute force, pry bars and other pikey techniques, but it would make painting all that stuff up nicely utterly pointless. I'd really like to avoid such desperate measures! outlaw118 and Banger Kenny 2
agw9262 Posted May 8, 2016 Posted May 8, 2016 It doesn't look like something you couldn't knock together given the skill and ingenuity you've shown to date. Little fabrication, welding etc with some plate and threaded rod and I think you could have something knocked together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Banger Kenny 1
4wheeledstool Posted May 8, 2016 Author Posted May 8, 2016 It doesn't look like something you couldn't knock together given the skill and ingenuity you've shown to date. Little fabrication, welding etc with some plate and threaded rod and I think you could have something knocked together. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI've already made plans to make one, a mate has offered to help. Threaded bar, nuts, flat pieces of steel and steel tubing are all available. What I'm not so sure about is steel rod to make the hook parts out of. It's easy enough to shape the rod, but I don't know if it'll keep the required shape, or straighten itself when the full force of the spring is bearing on it. mat_the_cat 1
agw9262 Posted May 8, 2016 Posted May 8, 2016 Any chance of using a pre threaded hook eg http://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-hook-shield-anchors-m10-x-115mm-5-pack/39991 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
4wheeledstool Posted May 9, 2016 Author Posted May 9, 2016 Any chance of using a pre threaded hook eg http://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-hook-shield-anchors-m10-x-115mm-5-pack/39991 Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIt's a possibility, but I'll probably need to make them to get the shape right. Made a start on the roof earlier - using paint stripper to take the blue paint off, then I'll hit it with the poly abrasive disc to remove the primer and rust. anonymous user, outlaw118, Cavcraft and 3 others 6
Pillock Posted May 9, 2016 Posted May 9, 2016 I've already made plans to make one, a mate has offered to help. Threaded bar, nuts, flat pieces of steel and steel tubing are all available. What I'm not so sure about is steel rod to make the hook parts out of. It's easy enough to shape the rod, but I don't know if it'll keep the required shape, or straighten itself when the full force of the spring is bearing on it. Make the hooks longer, and then something like a jubilee clip around them below the coil once they're on to stop them unfolding?
vulgalour Posted May 9, 2016 Posted May 9, 2016 1970s Alfas (and probably older) have similarly horrible front springs and you can get a variety of tools to sort it out. The one Mike persuaded me to use was essentially three long threaded bars through two plates that compressed the whole arm and spring assembly together to aid fitting and removal. Worked quite well but there was an element of fear because it felt like it'd take out an eye at a moment's notice. It didn't, I still have both eyes. This is the only illustrative picture I've found online, I don't think I took any when we did the job. I'm not sure how useful this would be for your application, but instead of hooks onto the springs you can see the nuts on the bar above the bottom spring pan. As the threaded bar was wound in you could put a second nut on to lock it all in place as you compressed. Slow going, but it does work. CGSB, michael1703 and outlaw118 3
michael1703 Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 Alfa springs are about a millionty lb's of pressure too,deadly things
vulgalour Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 Indeed! When we'd done the threaded bars had all stretched, even though we were advised they wouldn't, so couldn't be reused.
dollywobbler Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 And to think, folk are scared of Citroen hydraulic suspension. Spring compressors give me serious fear. I'll stick to green blood. outlaw118 1
4wheeledstool Posted May 10, 2016 Author Posted May 10, 2016 McPherson struts never looked particularly appealing until recently! This is the reason all the exterior paint has to come off - Most of the roof, boot lid and the top half of the door skins had blistered. The roof is definitely the worst affected panel - the doors and boot lid didn't show much blistering, but there was lots of little rust spots under the paint that hadn't yet made it to the surface. If the doors, boot lid etc. had been painted without stripping right back first, it would have blistered through the new paint soon enough. Banger Kenny, anonymous user, danthecapriman and 1 other 4
purplebargeken Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 Bare metal was the only sensible option, but think of how good it is now and how long it will continue to look good for
twosmoke300 Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 Alfa springs are about a millionty lb's of pressure too,deadly thingsGlad I'm not the only one to find this . I changed a spring on a 147 I think it was and almost had to have it cool bound to get the top nut on . I was pretty clenched I can tell you !
4wheeledstool Posted May 13, 2016 Author Posted May 13, 2016 Wednesday saw everything covered in plastic sheeting to prepare for the shitstorm ahead - Thursday I stripped the scuttle panel back - Today was mostly about getting half of the roof back to the metal - stripping the top coat off with paint stripper first means that I don't put as much heat into it, so there is a lot less chance of warpage - I'll probably be at this most of the weekend. oldcars, vulgalour, anonymous user and 7 others 10
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