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Peugeot 405 TD Executive Estate - sold!


SmokinWaffle
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My old man had a 1991 405 Estate GRD Turbo in dark grey metallic...of all the cars he owned while growing up it was my favourite. 

4 x elec window, elec sunroof, elec mirrors, remote central locking, grey velour, red turbo badge.....it had the lot.

He went round a bend too quick and put it through a wall. 

I've promised myself if I even find its twin  I'm gonna buy it.

well bought sir 

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Every single one of those top-end model radios has a failing LCD from that same top-left corner.  I've had three of them over the years.

Superb car.  Will definitely serve you well.

To effect some rustproofing in the sills:  There are no openings or plugs or bungs anywhere in the sills, but they do of course still get damp in them over time.  Getting them rustproofed can be difficult.  However:  At the front of the inner sill is a bolt-on tie-down point.  If you remove the two bolts that hold it on, those bolt holes go straight through into the sill, and the lance from a waxoyl sprayer will fit just perfectly through.  If you park the car facing uphill and then blat about two litres of waxoyl/othercavitywax into each sill, you may well prevent them rotting through from the inside.

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22 minutes ago, Talbot said:

Every single one of those top-end model radios has a failing LCD from that same top-left corner.  I've had three of them over the years.

Superb car.  Will definitely serve you well.

To effect some rustproofing in the sills:  There are no openings or plugs or bungs anywhere in the sills, but they do of course still get damp in them over time.  Getting them rustproofed can be difficult.  However:  At the front of the inner sill is a bolt-on tie-down point.  If you remove the two bolts that hold it on, those bolt holes go straight through into the sill, and the lance from a waxoyl sprayer will fit just perfectly through.  If you park the car facing uphill and then blat about two litres of waxoyl/othercavitywax into each sill, you may well prevent them rotting through from the inside.

Thanks muchly!

Had a quick play as I couldn't resist.

Topped up coolant started it up, rose and overflowed forever without the cap on. Temp didn't rise. No heat from blowers on max. When I revved it the coolant did a quick glub then went back down, please not another head gasket...

Found the bleed valve on the radiator. Started it, opened it, no coolant, level dropped. Close, topped up, open bleed valve, repeat 4 times before I got coolant out of the bleed valve - so there was some air trapped in it at least.

Overflowing stopped a bit - think I topped it up too much anyway. Cap back on, slight bit of coolant out of the release hole bit below it then it was fine. Dried it, monitored for 2-4 more minutes, no more coolant coming out of the overflow with the cap on.

Temperature rose to just under 70 - I'm led to believe operating temperature of these is around 75? Temp gauge is odd. But still no heat from the blowers.

No signs of white smoke or anything like that, top hose stayed cool so I assume the flow of coolant is fine and the thermostat is okay. Turned it off before I broke it.

Reading online it seems that it's common to have airlock in the heater system:

Quote

It's common to have a lock in the heater circuit Danny...

Fill with all bleed screws open, use an extension on the header tank (an old coke bottle cut in half and sealed to the expansion tank with blu-tak will do) and fill until all bleeds bleed.. Pump the top hose to see that's full too.. Maker sure the bleeder on the heater matrix hose is open too.. Once filled, close all bleeders but leave rad cap off and extension tank in place...

Start up, rev a bit and keep squeezing the top hose... Rev and open the heater matrix hose bleeder and see coolant escape from there...

All should be good.. Run until thermostat opens and rad is hot... As the thermostat opens you should see a fall in coolant. Top up at this point until the header tank is at the right level. Check heater..

Open all bleeds again and allow hot coolant to run freely from them.

Run until the fans cut in and out...

Stop and allow to cool but leave the expansion tank cap off until cold.. Top up if necessary and then recheck levels again after a good run.. The level will fall..

The reason you need an extension on the header tank is because the top of the engine is often above the top of the engine and without the extension the engine cannot be fully filled...

Sounds like a plan - just wanted to check it made sense to you chaps.

I'll monitor the cold level for a few days and see if it chucks any on the drive - I'm starting to wonder if there is actually a leak or if it's just an airlock stuck and as it gets hotter it just pushes coolant out of the overflow until the low coolant light comes on (which I did when I first got it and took it for a 30 second drive down the road)...

Am a little worried about HGF as I know they like to do it - but signs are positive so far. It starts strong every time, doesn't have any white or blue smoke, the only sign is the heater blowing cold which is easily explained by an airlock.

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17 minutes ago, SmokinWaffle said:

Thanks muchly!

Had a quick play as I couldn't resist.

Topped up coolant started it up, rose and overflowed forever without the cap on. Temp didn't rise. No heat from blowers on max. When I revved it the coolant did a quick glub then went back down, please not another head gasket...

Found the bleed valve on the radiator. Started it, opened it, no coolant, level dropped. Close, topped up, open bleed valve, repeat 4 times before I got coolant out of the bleed valve - so there was some air trapped in it at least.

Overflowing stopped a bit - think I topped it up too much anyway. Cap back on, slight bit of coolant out of the release hole bit below it then it was fine. Dried it, monitored for 2-4 more minutes, no more coolant coming out of the overflow with the cap on.

Temperature rose to just under 70 - I'm led to believe operating temperature of these is around 75? Temp gauge is odd. But still no heat from the blowers.

No signs of white smoke or anything like that, top hose stayed cool so I assume the flow of coolant is fine and the thermostat is okay. Turned it off before I broke it.

Reading online it seems that it's common to have airlock in the heater system:

Sounds like a plan - just wanted to check it made sense to you chaps.

I'll monitor the cold level for a few days and see if it chucks any on the drive - I'm starting to wonder if there is actually a leak or if it's just an airlock stuck and as it gets hotter it just pushes coolant out of the overflow until the low coolant light comes on (which I did when I first got it and took it for a 30 second drive down the road)...

Am a little worried about HGF as I know they like to do it - but signs are positive so far. It starts strong every time, doesn't have any white or blue smoke, the only sign is the heater blowing cold which is easily explained by an airlock.

Just realised I'm a bit of a bone head, when I put the cap back on I didn't press it down before twisting to seal it as it should. Went out there just now and heard some hissing every now and then from the cap and realised. What a novice move. 

I'll try again when I'm less tired, any advice in the meantime is welcome. Checked the oil, no signs of water or contamination. Black as your hat and smells like oil. 

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Lovely estates, had 2 both red both M reg's...1 would run like a swiss watch and get 50Mpg all day long... the other ran like a copy of a swiss watch and would struggle to get 40Mpg....1st saw an Indicated 100....2nd 85/90..

But both were brilliant  load luggers... comfy too..

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The matrixes on these do have a habit of sludging up, and when that happens you get flow through them and a feeble amount of heat.  It's a day's work to do a matrix, but not difficult.

Similarly, if it is a head gasket (which it really doesn't sound like it is) they are easy enough.  About 2 hrs to get the head off, a skim, grind in the valves, then probably 3hrs to get it all back together, including a new cambelt.  Not done one in a while, but have done plenty in the past.

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3 hours ago, Talbot said:

The matrixes on these do have a habit of sludging up, and when that happens you get flow through them and a feeble amount of heat.  It's a day's work to do a matrix, but not difficult.

Similarly, if it is a head gasket (which it really doesn't sound like it is) they are easy enough.  About 2 hrs to get the head off, a skim, grind in the valves, then probably 3hrs to get it all back together, including a new cambelt.  Not done one in a while, but have done plenty in the past.

I see - thanks for the comforting words!

Suppose the logical next step is drain the entire coolant system, open all bleed valves, refill as above and see where we get to! I do love how this car look. Looks smart on the drive.

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5 hours ago, SmokinWaffle said:

I see - thanks for the comforting words!

Suppose the logical next step is drain the entire coolant system, open all bleed valves, refill as above and see where we get to! I do love how this car look. Looks smart on the drive.

That's right about the header tank being necessary on an earlier post. 

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Apologies for huge pictures, on my phone - but this looks a bit shagged to me. Any thoughts? 

I'm assuming that when the cap is fully on, it should seal over the small "overflow" hole on the top of the expansion tank so water can over flow back into the radiator? With it being like this, it doesn't deal that hole and feels odd when you put it on. Maybe it's just a case of some air in the system and a dodgy radiator cap, suppose that could introduce air into the system now I think about it. 

PXL_20210314_215815651.jpg

PXL_20210314_215812049.jpg

PXL_20210314_215807248.jpg

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11 hours ago, Lacquer Peel said:

Where did the previous owner think the leak was coming from? Any residue or stains? 

It looks class by the way. I have an electric mirror for a 405 if needed, I think it's the driver's side. 

He said back of the engine - but I can't see any leaks or anything under it this morning or when it was running. Cheers!

11 hours ago, HillmanImp said:

Just replace the cap anyhow and see how you go. How much will that be a fiver? 

I'll take a look! 

10 hours ago, MJK 24 said:

Lovely machine.  Is it worth getting the bonnet and boot blown over?

You should see the roof!

PXL_20210315_084207784.thumb.jpg.5a5d79908cae0f195465789143a966d0.jpg

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Gen-U-Whine bars on the roof too?  Blimey.  I looked for a set of those for years when I had 405s and never found a set.  I ended up using the alternative mounting holes, which are hidden underneath the door seals at the top of the doors.  If you pull the seal back a bit, you'll find 4 threaded blind M8 holes in the body that you can attach a roof-rack to.  I ended up making one for my car.  Rest assured that a 405 will easily* carry 200kg on it's roof.

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8 minutes ago, Talbot said:

???

A reference to myself and my wingman Blind Trev who assisted* @SmokinWaffle with the aborted BX rescue mission last year... Our combined weight would be safe* on the roof.

A pic containing @SmokinWaffle @dozeydustman and the Blind One
IMG_20200916_140625.jpg.69c1bf8365482d62a664fc4a2555dcb3.jpg

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10 minutes ago, Talbot said:

Gen-U-Whine bars on the roof too?  Blimey.  I looked for a set of those for years when I had 405s and never found a set.  I ended up using the alternative mounting holes, which are hidden underneath the door seals at the top of the doors.  If you pull the seal back a bit, you'll find 4 threaded blind M8 holes in the body that you can attach a roof-rack to.  I ended up making one for my car.  Rest assured that a 405 will easily* carry 200kg on it's roof.

Yep - spare black bits / bars / the bit that goes across the middle in the boot too.

2 minutes ago, outlaw118 said:

A reference to myself and my wingman Blind Trev who assisted* @SmokinWaffle with the aborted BX rescue mission last year... Our combined weight would be safe* on the roof.

Big thanks again. I wish I was as handy with 100% vision as Trev is with less.....

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Just now, SmokinWaffle said:

I wish I was as handy with 100% vision as Trev is with less

Thing is, he doesn't let the fact of his blindness effect him - if he wants to do something he'll do it, regardless of the fact he can't see what he's doing! As demonstrated his grey matter still works perfectly, and the fact he couldn't see how minging the inside of that BX was probably a good thing...(as we posted him through the window head first)

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  • SmokinWaffle changed the title to Peugeot 405 TD Executive Estate - sold!

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