Jump to content

Ask a Shiter


warren t claim

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yes you can use a legal motorcycle size plate if it's an import and fitting a full sized one would be impractical.

 

But if a UK car from new, I guess not?

Guest Hooli
Posted

Anyone got a decent GSF promo code? They've been doing 60% off recently but I can't find any decent (i.e. >40%) codes active at the moment. Was hoping one would come up for this weekend.

 

WKD56 for 56% according to an email I got t'other day.

Posted

The orange oil warning light on a Honda FRV means "oil level low" not "stop driving right now, oil level terminal engine will explode", right? It's on my wife's car, it went off after she restarted it. I can't find an owner's manual online for the car, nor can I find a sensible description of all of the different warning lights.

3a3201a6f825314c8debcc499c377b6d.jpg

 

Edit: I checked the dipstick yesterday and it looked like this. It's not immediately clear on the dipstick what constitutes low or high since it's not marked.

28fd7633de923879811561c8c4951780.jpg

  • Like 1
Guest Hooli
Posted

I'd be assuming the hatched area is the correct oil level, so it's about halfway up.

Posted

I'd be assuming the hatched area is the correct oil level, so it's about halfway up.

That's what I thought too. Looks pretty manky, it's almost certainly due a change.

Guest Hooli
Posted

Could explain the light that, I've had sensors blocked with tiny bits of sludge in the past.

Probably worth taking it out to check while it's got no oil in.

Posted

Does anyone have any advice for spray painting a car roof, everything I've done so far (badly) has been vertical rather than horizontal but I've no way of turning the car.

Throw a net curtain over it before you start for extra scene points.

  • Like 7
Posted

Generally speaking, orange warning lights mean you will be fine for a bit but get it looked at. Red warning lights mean it fucked, stop immediately and switch off the engine 30 seconds ago before it did any damage.

  • Like 3
Posted

Throw a net curtain over it before you start for extra scene points.

My mum would still kill me for ruining a net curtain.

  • Like 2
Posted

I've just sold some stuff on eBay, specifically a Sony MP3 player which I couldn't get to work.

 

Sold for the princely sum of £8.50 to a bloke who was the highest bidder with seconds to go.

 

Sent invoice, matey paid.

 

BRUCIE.

 

Then I get a message from the next highest bidder....
 

 

 

bid activity with the person who won it (mp3 player) 100 percent alarm bells are ringing

to which i replied

 

 

Evening Chap, 
Why is that..... i don't know how to check stuff like this.... he's paid for it though....

Then....

 

 

it was just he had 100 percent bidding action with you

Reply:

 

 

'm old and a bit daft.... why is that a bad thing? 
Sorry if it's a silly question....

then

 

 

ew message from: ctiffo197211 (1,010iconRedStar_25x25.gif)  
basicly it means the person who has won your item ... buys a lot of things from you either that or he is bidding up the price

What is he on about? Is he accusing me of shill bidding or summert, or just a poor loser?

  • Like 1
Posted

Accusing you of schilling. Add him to your blocked list, people like him are a waste of time. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Yes he probably is trying to accuse you, however it is more likely that the person was not currently bidding on anything else therefore 100% of their activity at that time was on your item.

  • Like 2
Posted

My cousin lives en France. He fancies a slice of quality That’ll Do, and is currently getting funky ideas about buying an MGTF here and exporting it.

He has already done his same with his deceased father’s Scenic (love the idea that he’s taken it back to its garlicky homeland) and has just got it French registered and tested. He bought some LHD headlights as they were required, and plentiful.

He’s more concerned about sourcing some LHD headlights for the TF. Any suggestions? He’s found a tidy car local to me, and I’m happy to buy it on his behalf if he decides to go for it. However, no purchaseage will happen unless he’s confident he can get it France-legal without paying through his derrière for the pleasure.

Mange tout.

Posted

Are square UK number plates legal on UK market Japanese cars....

 

i.e. could I replace the normal plate to look like below?

 

2ndly, would it look crap?

 

MAZDA-323-C-921_7.jpg

I run a square rear number plate on the rear of my Mk4 Mondeo estate with the full blessing of the law.

Guest Hooli
Posted

I thought the rules were for the character sizes rather than the plate. You have to have set size (& obviously correct font) characters with a minimum border width. Hence plates with less characters can be smaller than a normal plate but still legal.

 

I do agree though that some imports are allowed motorbike sized characters.

  • Like 2
Posted

My cousin lives en France. He fancies a slice of quality That’ll Do, and is currently getting funky ideas about buying an MGTF here and exporting it.

He has already done his same with his deceased father’s Scenic (love the idea that he’s taken it back to its garlicky homeland) and has just got it French registered and tested. He bought some LHD headlights as they were required, and plentiful.

He’s more concerned about sourcing some LHD headlights for the TF. Any suggestions? He’s found a tidy car local to me, and I’m happy to buy it on his behalf if he decides to go for it. However, no purchaseage will happen unless he’s confident he can get it France-legal without paying through his derrière for the pleasure.

Mange tout.

Dave numbers has done this with his MGF including a lhd conversion, he has a thread on here somewhere detailing it.

  • Like 1
Posted

Code readers. I need one for the stupid modern fiat multipla. What should I look for? Is a £35 one from eBay any better than the £15 one or are they all rubbish?

Posted

Probably not, some of the more expensive ones will do stuff like put EPB into service mode or read ABS codes but you are talking more than £35. Its becoming a bit more make specific once you get past simple problems.

 

Get the £15 but if you are doing serious stuff consider some Fiat specific software and an old laptop.

  • Like 1
Posted

Weird one, my wife’s new Fiat 500 is making an odd noise on start up, but only when warm, not from cold. It’s hard to describe but is alsmost like that whine/ twang you get sometimes when you turn a tap off quickly. Only lasts a second and all is fine. First thought was a belt that needs adjusting but it only happens when warm. I will keep an eye on it and if it doesn’t go away I will get Fiat to have a nose. But any suggestions?

Guest Hooli
Posted

Worn elastic band in the 'pull back n go' mech?

 

 

/useless answer

  • Like 2
Posted

It goes bloody well for a small car, as the dickhead in x5 found out today when tried to cut me up. They remind me of a mini in they way they handle, but a more comfortable version.

Posted

Mondeo question.  Well two in fact.

 

1. What kind of code reader is likely to be able to communicate with a 2002 TDCi?  My cheapo one obviously won't, but I don't know if some slightly more sophisticated off-the-shelf models would?  Without going to a Ford main dealer obvs.

 

Forscan + elm327 interface.

Posted

As I was walking about Wallsend today, I espied an alloy block jauntily disposed against the wall of the Masons.. No connection!

 

It is one of those hollow alloy blocks the MOT guy uses to slide across the lift, to pick up on the chassis & raise the front wheels...

 

Just the one.... Any use to anyone? [well, I couldn't just leave it there!]

Posted

Dave numbers has done this with his MGF including a lhd conversion, he has a thread on here somewhere detailing it.

 

I vaguely remember that, now you mention it. Will have a goose.

Posted

Can anybody tell me how in the name of all that is sacred you are supposed to get a steering rack boot over the track rod ball joint?  I'm trying to get the track rod off the 205 - the ever helpful* HBOL simply says "slide the gaiter off the track rod assembly", or words to that effect.  Which is GR9, except that the hole in the gaiter is about 1/2" diameter and the ball joint is a good inch and a half.  I've tried getting a screwdriver in there and levering it, but of course what I'm levering against is 1. round and 2. covered in grease so as soon as I apply any leverage it just slips.  Am I missing something obvious?

Posted

Can anybody tell me how in the name of all that is sacred you are supposed to get a steering rack boot over the track rod ball joint?  I'm trying to get the track rod off the 205 - the ever helpful* HBOL simply says "slide the gaiter off the track rod assembly", or words to that effect.  Which is GR9, except that the hole in the gaiter is about 1/2" diameter and the ball joint is a good inch and a half.  I've tried getting a screwdriver in there and levering it, but of course what I'm levering against is 1. round and 2. covered in grease so as soon as I apply any leverage it just slips.  Am I missing something obvious?

Yeah you take the track rod end off the track rod and it will go on. You will not find any gaiter that will go over the ball joint.

  • Like 3
Guest Hooli
Posted

Having first marked it's position so you can put it back with the tracking about right.

Posted

Yeah you take the track rod end off the track rod and it will go on. You will not find any gaiter that will go over the ball joint.

 

Ah, OK,  That could be awkward - the track rod end won't come off the track rod, hence why I'm replacing the whole thing (or trying to).  Might be new boot time then methinks.

Posted

I thought the rules were for the character sizes rather than the plate. You have to have set size (& obviously correct font) characters with a minimum border width. Hence plates with less characters can be smaller than a normal plate but still legal.

 

I do agree though that some imports are allowed motorbike sized characters.

Minimum border width 11mm.
Guest Hooli
Posted

Ah, OK,  That could be awkward - the track rod end won't come off the track rod, hence why I'm replacing the whole thing (or trying to).  Might be new boot time then methinks.

 

If you're replacing the lot then cut the track rod near the end before sliding the boot off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...