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Posted

You see that blue plastic bit in the box of sockets here?

What the hell is it for? I have no idea. Ive always ended up chucking it away.

 

s-l1600.jpg

Posted

You see that blue plastic bit in the box of sockets here?

 

What the hell is it for? I have no idea. Ive always ended up chucking it away.

 

s-l1600.jpg

It's so you can twist the socket by hand for speed to hand tighten or loosen bolts.

 

I've only ever seen them in cheap kits. More expensive ones have driver handles and/or the extensions have knurled edges for the same purpose.

Posted

It's so you can twist the socket by hand for speed to hand tighten or loosen bolts.

 

I've only ever seen them in cheap kits. More expensive ones have driver handles and/or the extensions have knurled edges for the same purpose.

I've found these useful for introducing "drag" to keep the ratchet working when the nut/bolt is loose but access is tight.

  • Like 2
Posted

I need to get new plates made for the range rover, mainly because I've become a private plate wanker, but that's not the point of the post.

 

I can get some pre 2001 font plates made up, but the maker won't put his post code and bs number on them. Will it fail the mot?

 

 

 

Sent from my SGP621 using Tapatalk

Posted

No.

Thanks, I guess I won't get pulled over either?

 

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Posted

Thanks, I guess I won't get pulled over either?

 

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Considering I see about a dozen very obviously illegal plates every single day I'd be astounded if you did.

Posted

You won’t get pulled.

 

It SHOULD fail the MOT according to the rule book but you’d need to have an awfully fussy tester.

Posted

If the car is old enough (& it should be on here) then 'it's always been like that m9'.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have a tin reg plate on one of my bikes that is laid out

XXX

123

Y

 

Been like that for years never been an issue, I was told if I turned up with an obviously new plate laid out that way then it would be a no for the MOT.

Posted

Nope.

Unless it's changed & I've not noticed then bikes can have either two or three line plates.

Posted

Removing bushes from an arm without using fire? How do I do it?

 

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I'm thinking of drilling holes around the bush to weaken it. Not sure I'll be able to push it back out, considering how much force it was to get it in there.

Posted

Drilling holes in rubber isn't easy, I wouldn't bother. I'd put a socket over the centre and press it out. Fire is a last resort because rubber smoke :x

 

When you do the next one, lube it up with tyre soap before you fit it.

Posted

It was lubed up with silicone spray grease but I suspect it was not as effective as I hoped! Not sure I'll be able to press it out as I was standing on the bar, on the vice to press it in at the final bit.

Posted

Draw it out with a collection of sockets and a long bolt? (aka a bush removal tool...)

Posted

I have done this by threading a hacksaw blade through the hole and hooping it back into the saw frame, cutting through the bush inner and the rubber and then VERY CAREFULLY nearly cutting through the bush's outer sleeve. Use a chisel to fold the end of the outer sleeveby the cut and it will split along the cut line. Much care is neede to not cut into the suspension item you are removing the bush from.

 

***fire is cheap and always defeats rubber. Ensure the smoke goes up a chimney.

  • Like 2
Posted

Does gapping spark plugs make that much of a difference? I have never bothered gapping new plugs before and the car always seemed to run fine but I have new plugs to go in the Proton so I may do it properly this time.

Posted

^ yes,

..a wrong gap can mean poor combustion of the fuel in the cylinder (maybe an incomplete burn, so aside from a loss of power (efficiency) you'll waste fuel & soot up inside your engine, catalyst & exhaust)  &/or the spark plug's tips eroding prematurely (meaning the spark plug needs to be replaced sooner). 

 

A poor spark will also be more difficult to start (particularly through the winter months &/or with lower quality fuels) and so excessively works your starter motor and battery.  In the meantime your engine oil is not being pumped efficiently by the slow revs when being-cranked-over  ..and excess (unburnt fuel) will wash the lubrication from the cylinder bores (..not good for longevity).

 

Btw : The wrong grade of spark-plug might have the same consequences or on the other hand cause the combustion chamber to burn too hot, resulting in burnt valves or worse. 

 

Just do it right ;)

  • Like 1
Posted

^^^ Wot 'e said.

 

Only bit bfg didn't say is the length of the plug matters too, in order for the flame front to start in the right place.

Posted

Pfft, it'll only do that a couple of times...

  • Like 2
Posted

Cool, well I am pretty sure I ordered the correct plugs so will have to search in the garage for some feeler gauges.

Posted

Pfft, it'll only do that a couple of times...

But it'll close the spark plug gap up  ..and you know what happens then . .  :mrgreen:

  • Like 1
Posted

.

Chrysler Voyager - ABS  woes

 

... the ABS + Brake + Traction-off warning lights all now on 

 

.. is it something I can fix myself (I don't have a electronic diagnostic thingy or special tools) or do I need to take it to a garage. ?

 

Thanks,

 

 

I've replaced the sensor - does the brain need an electronic diagnostic thingy to tell it so ..or will it work it out for itself. ?

 

If it's the latter then it is still not working. :(

Posted

Often over 20mph when they run a self test to check the sensor readings.

Posted

^ Thanks both.  I tried it and the brake warning light has gone out but the ABS and the Traction-Off are both still illuminated.

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