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Posted

so bigger wheels need lower profile tyres = harsher ride.

Also equals significantly more expensive tyres in future.

  • Like 1
Posted

I've got 18s ( :-o ) on my V8 75 and the ride is pretty terrible compared to my V6 75 on 15s. Admittedly, literally all the suspension is different on the V8 but I think having 15s really helps the ride.

Posted

Images off the internet of a similar carb:

 

s-l1600.jpg

That looks like the Bings on my JLO-powered Flymos. Do not be tempted to overtighten the float bowl/main jet nut to compensate for a shagged gasket (Bing! :( )

 

If it's anything like mine it's totally frigged and there aint no spares anywhere ever :mad:

Posted

A question for all Rover 75 lickers (and other interested parties).

 

I have a set of 15 inch Crown alloy wheels on my one, but I will be needing to get a new set of tyres very soon.

 

WP_20160706_001.jpg

 

However, I sort of fancy a set of 17 inch Serpent alloys, as they do look particularly nice and I feel that the 15 inch ones are a little bit on the small side, even though I like them.

 

(This is similar to what they would look like on my one)

531951d8190b6bb27.jpg

 

As luck would have it, I have seen a set on the internet which look to be in reasonable condition, with some rather new tyres, for less than the cost of a set of tyres for the Crowns which I have at the moment.

 

However, I quite like the ride quality of the car at the moment and don't particularly want to ruin it by fitting a huge set of alloy wheels. Would there be any significant difference, would it ruin the ride quality or am I just being concerned for no real reason?

 

And which do you think are better overall in terns of style and other stuff, as I quite like both and can't decide which route I should go down?

I went from 15" steelies to 16" alloys on my 156 and I noticed bumps more. However my S80 has 17" alloys and still soaks up the bumps better than the 156. So I'd say yes they might make the ride worse but it also depends on the suspension setup. I would go for it, it they're terrible just sell them on.

Posted

This power steering pipe in my OH's Tucson is leaking. Would I be best getting one from the main stealer or could someone recommend somewhere in fife where I could get one made up. It's just a section of pipe with some bends, its about 400mm long.

I've done some more reading on this, if it's a return line I've read you can make a replacement from copper plumbing pipe as there's little pressure in it. But I've also read people saying not to do this as it will work harden and split. Anyone got a view on this?

Posted

If its a return line, some good quality rubber hose and jubilee clips should be fine.

Posted

Silly one I know, but do electric mirrors need to work for the mot?

Posted

No. But the mirror bit has to be there, or at least one of them and an interior mirror (I think and it has to be drivers side?)

 

How frequently do I need to re-charge the battery from the MX5 to keep it happy? I'm doing it once a month at the mo' but it hardly takes any charging to get back to 'full' at this frequency.

Posted

Is your alternator suspect or summink? You shouldn't need to charge it at all if the alternator is working correctly, although during the winter months, with more use of lights, wipers etc. it helps to give it a boost now and then, but this time of year? Nah.

Posted

If its a return line, some good quality rubber hose and jubilee clips should be fine.

Problem is it's a piece of metal line between two rubber pipes

Posted

Looks like I'm going to need a a good length of 10mm copper pipe, its a bit bigger than I initially thought

post-17353-0-09450000-1477858559_thumb.jpg

Posted

Is your alternator suspect or summink? You shouldn't need to charge it at all if the alternator is working correctly, although during the winter months, with more use of lights, wipers etc. it helps to give it a boost now and then, but this time of year? Nah.

Sorry, car is in the garage on SORN and hasn't been used since September, so just wanting to keep it charged so it's 'good to go' in the new year.

Posted

Cobblers...

 

The main jet will have been up against the venturi tube. It has a load of tiny little jets in it which need to be cleaned out. hold the main jet and venturi tube up to the light and you should be able to clearly see daylight through each of the pinholes. Any blockages you should clean out.

Although these mower carbs look simple there are lots of little jets/passages which need to be cleaned - both on the body and removable parts.

 

Your best bet is to get a can of carb cleaner and some compressed air and to remove everything and clean it thoroughly then reassemble. So long as you have a clean working space, a 10mm socket and a couple of screwdrivers you should be able to do it no bother. Work methodically and you can't really screw it up :)

 

You want to remove the 2 bolts from the float chamber, the main jet, the venturi tube, the float pin & float and float valve, then any other removable screws/valves your carb has. Blast out any jets etc you can see and then inspect/reassemble. If you still have rough running after this, then troubleshoot further. Make sure you get the carb reassembled with all the gaskets in the correct place so you don't get vacuum leaks. I usually take a load of pictures when taking one apart of the first time so I can refer back later if I'm unsure.

 

PM me with your email address and I'll send you a guide for stripping/cleaning & reassembling a Honda carb... it won't be 100% identical but it will get you 95% of the way there, for the rest just follow your nose :)

 

If you can post up some pics of your actual carb and the linkages,  it may be helpful, but most of these type are much the same...

 

I reckon I've probably bent the choke linkage TBH, but you're right, I just assumed it sucked fuel through the jet thing, up the brass tube and into the inlet, I didn't notice any other air holes or owt. Although I was doing it on the patio with a single adjustable spanner and petrol pouring everywhere and wasn't really paying much attention.

 

If the choke linkage is OK then I'll take the carb off properly and take it in to work, we've got a parts washer and an ultrasonic cleaner, I'll strip it and blast it out with solvents and air then ultrasonic it to shift anything I've missed.  I'm just scared every time I unbolt owt incase that particular bolt is a critical adjustment screw.

Posted

I have an old Clarke 24l compressor I got in a deal ages ago and have never used because it doesn't have the same fittings as the multi accessory pack I bought from Screwfix http://www.screwfix.com/p/air-tool-spray-kit-5-pieces/1710H?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=GoogleLocal-_-Datafeed-_-Tools&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CPa-j_TBg9ACFQXnGwodZLsMiQ

 

WTF do I need to buy to make it all fit together? I only want it to use a blow gun, tyre inflator and possibly a cylinder leak down tester

Posted

Could this thread be re-titled "general question amnesty" or something?

 

It would be nice for all the "what is the song in that advert" fluff to end up in here rather than cluttering the board up still further.

Posted

Just disconnect the battery and it'll be fine

yeah do this ...give it a quick top up when your ready to use the car again

Posted

Could this thread be re-titled "general question amnesty" or something?

 

It would be nice for all the "what is the song in that advert" fluff to end up in here rather than cluttering the board up still further.

 

There's a "non car" stupid question amnesty post in the open forum...

  • Like 3
Posted

No good if folk don't know when to use it...

 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

That lawn mover carb looks identical to my chainsaw carb. My chainsaw is a fake sthil, so could be worth looking for a manual that way.

Posted

What's the point of a 3.5 ton recovery vehicle? Surely they only have a tiny payload?

Posted

Most drivers / operators of them seem to think weights limits don't apply to them

  • Like 3
Posted

My LT had a payload of about 1400kg, so enough for the old tat I was hauling around on it, but I agree with twosmoke about the "doesn't apply to me" brigade, and especially so for the ones that think their 3.5T transit with some ramps is MoT exempt.

  • Like 2
Posted

Most modern focus sized cars will put a 3.5t truck overweight unless it's got a really light alloy body

  • Like 2
Posted

My LT had a payload of about 1400kg, so enough for the old tat I was hauling around on it, but I agree with twosmoke about the "doesn't apply to me" brigade, and especially so for the ones that think their 3.5T transit with some ramps is MoT exempt.

 

 

Most modern focus sized cars will put a 3.5t truck overweight unless it's got a really light alloy body

 

Kinda what I thought - older recovery vehicle might have a reasonable payload, but a modern truck must surely be well into the 3.5 itself.

 

opportunistic manufacturers down-plating to 3.5t knowing fine rightly their customers will carry more?

Posted

Most modern focus sized cars will put a 3.5t truck overweight unless it's got a really light alloy body

Alloy bed and a bare bones build on a poverty spec truck to keep the unladen weight down as well, a crew cab will usually be right at the rear axle weight limit too.

Posted

Re the carb question. I'd give thought to the cost of a new carb. Last new one I bought cost £8.50 delivered...

Posted

3. pull the battery and bring it inside for the winter 

That's what I was going to add (but took too long about it) - batteries don't like freezing.

 

Perversely, I had a quick Google (I really should stop using that) to see if I could find some figures and was told hot temperatures are far worse. Really? So why do so many more batteries get sold in the winter? Maybe if you live in Death Valley...

Posted

Opinions on price chaps.

 

My much loved Almera is due an MOT in about 2 weeks, the exhaust has taken its cue to rot through just before the rear silencer and just by the front flexi. I've taken it in to be looked at and been quoted £400 + VAT for a complete downpipe-back setup including cat which is a bit salty IMHO.

 

I've wobbed up the back of it with exhaust paste but the front bit is going to be a twat to do and won't last long due to it needing to flex.

 

It also needs 4 tyres before christmas so that being the case I'm looking at £600 of work for a £400 car which we've stuck 80k miles on. I'm a bit sad when I think about taking it to see James Brown but at the same time I could get something else in better shape for £600 and just sack this off.

 

thoughts?

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