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Posted

I realise that this will differ with size, etc., but roughly speaking how much does the paint on a car weigh? :?

Posted

Flicking round the web just now it would appear about three litres for a medium-large sized car so would guess the same in primer too. Based on one litre of paint weighing one kilogram* perhaps about 7 kilo's give or take?

 

 

*It was on the internet, and everyone knows if it was on the internet it must be true.

Posted

My VW is supposed to have a 1.9D engine fitted from a Mk 3 golf. Got V5 through today with the engine number starting DJ which is a 2.1 D engine and has left me thoroughly confused.

 

Any idea where the identification plate is on the engine so I can find out? Van is at my mums so cant wander out right now.

Posted
My VW is supposed to have a 1.9D engine fitted from a Mk 3 golf. Got V5 through today with the engine number starting DJ which is a 2.1 D engine and has left me thoroughly confused.

 

Any idea where the identification plate is on the engine so I can find out? Van is at my mums so cant wander out right now.

 

If it's out of a Mk3 Golf, the engine number is handily on a plastic cover over the cambelt.... which is frequently lost (for example, mine is under the kitchen sink). It is often also stamped near the dipstick too but I'm not sure if that's every engine type.

Posted

Are Ford TDCI engines still a total nightmare to get fuel pumps for? Is a grenaded high pressure pump still a shortcut to the frag machine for an 03 plate Mondeo or is there a reasonably cheap fix out there?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

How much, roughly, should I expect to pay for a respray in the original colour of the car? It's got a vinyl roof if that makes any difference (although there are a few suspicious bumps, so heaven knows what could be going on underneath it).

 

Very grateful for any advice (and also any good recommendations for places to go in or near Herts)... Cheers!

Posted
How much, roughly, should I expect to pay for a respray in the original colour of the car? It's got a vinyl roof if that makes any difference (although there are a few suspicious bumps, so heaven knows what could be going on underneath it).

 

Very grateful for any advice (and also any good recommendations for places to go in or near Herts)... Cheers!

 

Not really Herts, but cant recommend this place highly enough:

http://www.thomsonlocal.com/Cropley+Gre ... yinfo.html

 

I would guess anywhere from a couple of hundred quid (Think blue maxi with MAXI written in white across the boot!) and a grand.

Posted

Audi question what does CD. CC & CS stand for?

 

is it Consort Diplomatique?

Consort Classique?

Consort Sportif?

 

& tell me about colour coding on VW Variants,

I remember it was mentioned on here a yonk back that VW's

were colour coded according to how much you'd spent on them.

My 'GT' badges are in need of colouring in.

Posted

Micras front wheel bearing is clunking. I have ordered the bits to fix it but do you think it will be ok to drive to Scotland and back on it? Or is that tempting fate?

Posted

It clunks over potholes. When I try the wheel wobble test it moves about 4 mm. Doesnt happen the other side. Looking at the rest of it I cant see anything else that would cause the problem. The bushes arent perfect but are still there. Fitted new dampers about 3 months ago so isnt them.

Posted
How much, roughly, should I expect to pay for a respray in the original colour of the car? It's got a vinyl roof if that makes any difference (although there are a few suspicious bumps, so heaven knows what could be going on underneath it).

 

Very grateful for any advice (and also any good recommendations for places to go in or near Herts)... Cheers!

Last time I had a car done it was £2000 which included a bit of welding for the rear valance and other easy areas. Hayden at Panel Kraft did a great job: http://www.panel-kraft.co.uk/

61_painted_rear.jpg

 

I've also had a few £300 resprays done, and to be honest I got a miles better finish with Rustoleum and doing it by hand.

Posted

 

& tell me about colour coding on VW Variants,

I remember it was mentioned on here a yonk back that VW's

were colour coded according to how much you'd spent on them.

My 'GT' badges are in need of colouring in.

 

You mean the TDI badges?

 

All silver - 90bhp or 105bhp

Red "I" - 110bhp or 115bhp

Red DI - 130bhp

Red TDI - 150bhp

 

However now they've got 140bhp and 170bhp models and they seem to just use all silver sometimes.

Posted

I don't think they ever made a VW Variant in TDi (or any diesel come to think of it) FLAVA. Weren't they all air cooled with Beetle engines?

Posted

You mean the TDI badges?

 

All silver - 90bhp or 105bhp

Red "I" - 110bhp or 115bhp

Red DI - 130bhp

Red TDI - 150bhp

 

However now they've got 140bhp and 170bhp models and they seem to just use all silver sometimes.

 

When I was flogging VWs for a living the whole badge thing was a lottery as the mechanics who PDi'd them just used to throw whatever was to hand on. SEAT seem to do the same thing, we've got eight or nine Alhambra 'Reference' 130 bhp jobs in work and they've all got random TDi badges. Some have all silver badges on the front wings but all red ones on the boot, one has a red i on one side, a red DI on the other and silver TDI on the boot..

 

That may just be our local SEAT branch though, they're useless at best.

Posted

Has anyone got any tips as to why the 'add to watch list' has disappeared when I am browsing ebay? It was working yesterday but today theres no sign of it. No other internet problems seem to be present.

Posted

It's working fine for me. :?:

Posted

I think it's moved recently... it's under the 'place bid' button...

Posted

Yeah i've found it now, cheers. WOW CHEERS EBAY THATS A MASSIVE IMPROVEMENT

Posted

Anyone else having a twitchy back button facility on eBay? I only want to go back one item or whatever but when I press the back button it goes back about 14 sodding clicks and I keep seeing the same old chod.

Posted

 

When I was flogging VWs for a living the whole badge thing was a lottery as the mechanics who PDi'd them just used to throw whatever was to hand on. SEAT seem to do the same thing, we've got eight or nine Alhambra 'Reference' 130 bhp jobs in work and they've all got random TDi badges. Some have all silver badges on the front wings but all red ones on the boot, one has a red i on one side, a red DI on the other and silver TDI on the boot..

 

Same with some of the actual models. VW never officially did a Golf Mk4 GTTDI but you can get a GTI with a TDI engine. So the PDI yobs got a bit creative, I've seen "GTITDI", "GTTDI" "GTDI", "GT TDI" and all sorts. With the same variation in red and silver letters.

 

I just find it a little sad that you need to advertise that you have 5, 10, 20bhp more etc.... even the Leons in my shape had a "130" badge if you got the higher power diesel. Mine is badgeless, I assume because the moron who owned it before wanted it to look like a Cupra.

 

 

That may just be our local SEAT branch though, they're useless at best.

 

Just like their cars..... ;)

Posted

It's been happening years though. All this automotive cock-waving. The office car park in the late 70s/early 80s.... Cortinas....1.3 base, 1.3 base, 1,3 base, 1.6L, 1.6L, 1.6L, 1.6GL Estate, 2.0GL, 2.3 Ghia Estate, Granada 2.3GL. 2.3GL, 2.8iGLS, 2.8i GhiaX, Maserati BiTurbo etc. Spot the reps, spot the middle managers, spot the VP..... and spot the Director of the Board.

Guest Len H
Posted

I don't think many cars have trim level or engine size badges any more.

Posted

Just to get back to the questions, here's one for the MoT testers.

My Audi ('98 A3 TDi) is due a test in a fortnight, here's a list of things I know are wrong with it.

 

Service display (odometer - "service miles" flashes up) comes on, goes off after 30 seconds or so.

Offside door is visibly crusty at base.

Offside door latch can be iffy, pushing the internal handle in sorts it (not related to rust).

Heater only blows hot air (at all times).

Vibration through steering wheel at 60-65mph (I reckon the wheels are out but blame the council for not fixing all the fucking pot holes).

Exhaust rattles at idle or when decelerating at walking pace (quiet at all other times - car runs well and gives good economy).

Most of the lights in the centre console do not illuminate (heater aside, all controls function as they should).

Water will appear in the front footwells after heavy rain or a wash (the rubber mats mostly hide this).

Rear wash wipe doesn't. The wash will dribble when the bottle is full, wiper hasn't worked for nearly 9 months.

 

The actual question is, if I pull the rear wiper off and replace it with a gromet and throw the car at the council MoT shed (just down the road),what are the odds of a pass?

 

Thank you in advance.

Posted

I'd spend an afternoon with some grease and WD40 sorting that door catch then chuck it in for a test. The catch might be an issue the rest shouldn't be (I'm not a tester though).

Posted
Just to get back to the questions, here's one for the MoT testers.

My Audi ('98 A3 TDi) is due a test in a fortnight, here's a list of things I know are wrong with it.

 

Service display (odometer - "service miles" flashes up) comes on, goes off after 30 seconds or so.

Offside door is visibly crusty at base.

Offside door latch can be iffy, pushing the internal handle in sorts it (not related to rust).

Heater only blows hot air (at all times).

Vibration through steering wheel at 60-65mph (I reckon the wheels are out but blame the council for not fixing all the fucking pot holes).

Exhaust rattles at idle or when decelerating at walking pace (quiet at all other times - car runs well and gives good economy).

Most of the lights in the centre console do not illuminate (heater aside, all controls function as they should).

Water will appear in the front footwells after heavy rain or a wash (the rubber mats mostly hide this).

Rear wash wipe doesn't. The wash will dribble when the bottle is full, wiper hasn't worked for nearly 9 months.

 

The actual question is, if I pull the rear wiper off and replace it with a gromet and throw the car at the council MoT shed (just down the road),what are the odds of a pass?

 

Thank you in advance.

 

Rear wiper is NOT part of the mot test.

A door not 'securing' correctly is a failure

Rust can only fail if its likely to cause injury from a sharp edge = duct tape

Service light - not a testable item

Exhaust rattle - might be a heat shield or a baffle - providing its secure and not excessively deteriorated - advisary

center console lamps - not a failure provided actual testable control warning lamps illuminate - lighting controls only - heating controls are not testable

Heater - not a testable item

water ingress - not a failure,but its god practice to advised

Wheel vibration - might not be detectable on test - maybe a bad tyre or pot holed rim

 

Sounds like it shouldn't do too bad,but will get a long list on the advisary sheet

Posted
Just to get back to the questions, here's one for the MoT testers.

My Audi ('98 A3 TDi) is due a test in a fortnight, here's a list of things I know are wrong with it.

 

Service display (odometer - "service miles" flashes up) comes on, goes off after 30 seconds or so.

Offside door is visibly crusty at base.

Offside door latch can be iffy, pushing the internal handle in sorts it (not related to rust).

Heater only blows hot air (at all times).

Vibration through steering wheel at 60-65mph (I reckon the wheels are out but blame the council for not fixing all the fucking pot holes).

Exhaust rattles at idle or when decelerating at walking pace (quiet at all other times - car runs well and gives good economy).

Most of the lights in the centre console do not illuminate (heater aside, all controls function as they should).

Water will appear in the front footwells after heavy rain or a wash (the rubber mats mostly hide this).

Rear wash wipe doesn't. The wash will dribble when the bottle is full, wiper hasn't worked for nearly 9 months.

 

The actual question is, if I pull the rear wiper off and replace it with a gromet and throw the car at the council MoT shed (just down the road),what are the odds of a pass?

 

Thank you in advance.

 

Wheel vibration almost certainly just the balance. Any decent tyre place could sort this in 15 minutes at most.

 

Exhaust could be mounting rubbers or a heat shield, again a quick job for a tyre house.

 

Water in footwells probably down to blocked drain points under the panel below the windscreen. Have a quick look and see if you can spot the rubber bungs, there may be one under the battery if it's located there. If you can see the bungs it does no harm to poke them out with a long handled screwdriver. Wet floors can lead to myriad electrical gremlins on VAG stuff.

 

Rear wiper blade seems to fall under MOT scrutiny, certainly they check them when I go for an MOT. However if wiper removed it's not a fail.

Posted

Speaking as a tester, the only thing in that list that MIGHT be of concern is the door rust; Although not structural (as in suspension brackets) it could be a failure if the tester considers it dangerous if a pedestrian were injured by it. The rear wiper's NOT part of the test, the exhaust pipe mustn't leak and be securely attached to the car, but it can rattle as much as it wants! (although this might suggest that the catalytic converter has gone west...) The tracking can be out, but if it's caused excessive wear on the tyres then it'll fail for that, but you'll not fail for having puddles in the floor (unless they've made the floor so rusty that it's not structurally sound)

 

Your heater controls don't have to be lit for the test, and neither does your heater have to work! The door has to be "capable of being opened from the inside" which you have said you can do, so that's OK.

 

Hope this helps!

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