spike60 Posted May 3, 2016 Posted May 3, 2016 If it's smoking and it;s not the turbo it's more likely the injectors are knackered and releasing too much fuel. I don't think injector cleaner will do much. don't worry they're easy to remove I thought this but it's still good on fuel, 43.4 mpg over last 13k. A real 40 mpg. Removing injectors doesn't worry me, only paying for them!
bub2006 Posted May 4, 2016 Posted May 4, 2016 A big ask but has anyone got a an A Frame I may borrow? Due to unforeseen circumstances I need to shift a car and may need to scrap two in. Thanks.
Kiltox Posted May 4, 2016 Posted May 4, 2016 If you need to scrap stuff and can't be arsed taking it yourself use www.removemycar.co.uk - better rates than CarTakeBack / the "it's only worth £5 mate" pikeys / scrappies that will charge to collect or expect to uplift for free
bub2006 Posted May 4, 2016 Posted May 4, 2016 I don't want to scrap anything yet if I can help it. Issue is I have to move my vectra asap. Thanks for links though.
bub2006 Posted May 4, 2016 Posted May 4, 2016 That remove my car doesn't look a bad set up. Auction too.
Kiltox Posted May 4, 2016 Posted May 4, 2016 The auction thing rarely yields result but is worth a try
bub2006 Posted May 4, 2016 Posted May 4, 2016 I don't want to scrap either if I can help it. Just time and space is not good at this moment
DSdriver Posted May 4, 2016 Posted May 4, 2016 Peugeot 206 front pads: Is it always a bastard to get the top of the inboard pad in with those soppy clips or am I missing a trick?I ended up filing a bit off the lobes on the pads otherwise they would not slide in and out and would have worn out in no time.
twosmoke300 Posted May 4, 2016 Posted May 4, 2016 A lot of pads need a little filing to slide properly in the sliders . I find the budget brakes need more as they aren't stamped out as cleanly . I had a set of drivetec ones that were actually twisted ! DSdriver 1
Kiltox Posted May 5, 2016 Posted May 5, 2016 Drivetec pads are god awful (and that's from someone that fits Eicher shite from ECP as a rule!)Rarely need to file pads though, usually clean up the mounting bracket instead....
DSdriver Posted May 5, 2016 Posted May 5, 2016 ... Rarely need to file pads though, usually clean up the mounting bracket instead.... I wish I'd thought of that whilst I had them off to change the discs, I did make a half-arsed effort once I had bolted them back on though. This is the first time I have ever had this problem (mind you, the first time I have done brakes on this car).I did once have a problem with pads friction material contaminated with tool steel swarf which was grinding up the discs. It took a while to work out why the brakes were grinding after changing the pads.
face Posted May 6, 2016 Posted May 6, 2016 What actually makes a car crackle and bang on overrun? Not just the exhaust?
3VOM Posted May 6, 2016 Posted May 6, 2016 What actually makes a car crackle and bang on overrun? Not just the exhaust?Valve and timing overlap at low engine speed IIRC.
andy18s Posted May 6, 2016 Posted May 6, 2016 Weak mixture. If it's definitely not an exhaust leak allowing air in then get it looked at as I think it maybe running too lean
Des Posted May 6, 2016 Posted May 6, 2016 To clean calipers out where the pads go in, after scraping out the crud with a screwdriver, cut a wire brush down the middle and give a good jiggering with the halves, but chuck the brush before the bristles get too curly and catch the rubbers, or, use someone else's tinsnips to trim the bristles to an aggressive 1/4''. Tech question, those 4G internet boxes that give mobile WIFI from a simcard, I have an EE card which offers some gigabytes for a tenner, when I go to Europe I assume I'll need another simcard, is there anything available here that will work or is it a case of trying to obtain one locally abroad, hitting language barrier, pointing and shouting then getting into an argument with Johnny Foreigner before sacking off the idea?
dave21478 Posted May 6, 2016 Posted May 6, 2016 Apparently international roaming charges have been abolished in Europe? Worth looking into it to see if you can just use your UK card.
andy18s Posted May 6, 2016 Posted May 6, 2016 Roaming charges have been reduced but Not abolished just yet. I think I heard they will be by Octoberish time though but obviously check with your network..... dave21478 1
philibusmo Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 I'm half looking buying a series 1 Peugeot 306 Convertible. Apart from the hydraulics for the roof kersploding and general wear to the quality* Peugeot interior fabrics, is there anything else I should be lookin out for? It's a 1.8 manual with some wonderfully fake wood trim on the dash. I'm in NZ socparts availability is likely to be sparse at best.
philibusmo Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 I've had a blat around in a 2.0 one before and it seemed pretty reasonable. EDIT: but then at the time I was driving a Maxi with about 170,000 miles on the clock as my daily so my standards probably weren't that high. Sigmund Fraud 1
Dave_Q Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 Lyca or lebara aren't bad for euro data, I used a Lyca sim card for my hols last year and got 1gb data to use in .nl for a tenner. Three have no roaming charges in France, Italy and Spain so worth a look, you could get a 30 day sim only contract from them with many data. Either way you might have to not tell them it's going in a mifi thing as they're not always cool with them. Sadly there is still not 1 cheap option for all of Europe, depends where you're going.
dave21478 Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 I'm half looking buying a series 1 Peugeot 306 Convertible. Apart from the hydraulics for the roof kersploding and general wear to the quality* Peugeot interior fabrics, is there anything else I should be lookin out for? It's a 1.8 manual with some wonderfully fake wood trim on the dash. I'm in NZ socparts availability is likely to be sparse at best. Front electric windows are a common failure point and the mechanism is unique to the phase 1 cabriolet so basically unobtanium.When I bought mine the "small problem with the wiring" turned out to be both windows wedged up with bits of wood. I eventually found one mechanism on ebay and the other from a member of the owners forum. CGSB 1
Richard Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 Can't you just jam a screwdriver in the starter ring gear or put a breaker bar on it and flick the starter? Not that the "official" method sounds all that challenging really. CGSB, dave21478 and Sigmund Fraud 3
dave21478 Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 I was always scared to try the breaker bar and flick the starter method as it sounded like a Darwin Award in the making, but after encountering a Zetec pulley that simply wouldnt undo by other means I tried it - worked a treat and I have done it a few times on other stuff since then. IMO its best to leave 8 inches or so if possible between the handle of the breaker bar and whetever it will hit...ground, wishbone etc, so the engine gets a little bit of momentum up, whereas just having the handle already against the ground means you are only using the power of the starter. Granted its a low gear ratio but the extra momentum of the engine turning a bit seems to help. Top tip 1 - diconnect coil or something so engine wont run on.Top tip 2 - Careful with Hondas where the engine spins the "wrong" direction. CGSB 1
M'coli Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 It's petrol, isn't it? Pop a sparkplug out at the bottom of the power stroke, feed a rope down the cylinder, turn the engine backwards until it locks against the rope and procede to remove the pulley bolt. Jazoli, Lacquer Peel and CGSB 3
twosmoke300 Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 Mark with paint pen and whizz off with windy gun if you have one . Then whizz back up to the mark plus a little bit for luck CGSB 1
doobietoo Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 Quite often you can crack a nut off like that by putting a decent spanner on the nut and giving it a few hefty hits with a club hammer. Yes it does spin but it often works....80nm is not that tight.... CGSB 1
twosmoke300 Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 Not even as tight as most wheel nuts anonymous user and Eddie Honda 2
doobietoo Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 And I use this method successfully when I have forgotten to loosen the wheel nuts before jacking the car up as too lazy to put the jack back down
dave21478 Posted May 8, 2016 Posted May 8, 2016 To retighten I personally would just wang it up as tight as I could by hand then clout the end of the spanner a few times with a hefty hammer to turn it a little more. Something else that can work is to get the aux belt and wrap it round the crank pulley and then improvise a way to hold that tight with a ratchet strap or similar as the friction of the belt on the pulley can prevent it turning. Lacquer Peel 1
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