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Posted

I had to turn fairly tightly over the treshold as I was reversing my Honda out from a garage. I felt the steering resist a little bit and immediately turned the wheel back slightly. Soon after, the system started making squeeling noises when turning the wheel while stationary, even though the fluid level was fine. Also the steering wheel didn't seem to turn smoothly.

 

I flushed the system (the old fluid was really black and had a burnt smell to it) and now it's been fine.

 

Did the system somehow suck in air or is this the first symptom of a pump failing? Don't see any issue with the belt.

 

I'm sure in my Honda book it stats something like 'turning the steering to full lock and holding it there can damage the pump' I've noted that the CRv if you try and push it past the limit it makes a grinding sound, not loud but noticeable. only ever done this a handful of times as I remember the book saying something..

Posted

I've got cracks between the treads on the dollop I hope they pass 'cos I can't afford any more!

Posted

I've got cracks between the treads on the dollop I hope they pass 'cos I can't afford any more!

as long as the cords dont show its advise ...but id not want to go far on shonky tyres

Posted

This might not be shite worthy, but as there are a few mechanics and Volvo botherers here -

 

How diyable is changing the crankshaft seal on Volvo V70 D5? Also, how many miles should the clutch last? It's at 114k and might be worth changing while in there.

Posted

Alternatively, what's the shitters way of stopping a leaky engine?

Any special potions?

Posted

Leaking what? Oil or water? If it's pissing coolant out nothing short of replacing whatever's wrong. A slight leak like a thermostat housing or radiator then k seal works well. Oil? Again depends what's leaking, I've used Wynns Stop Leak with good success before. You do have to give it time to start to work though.

Posted

This might not be shite worthy, but as there are a few mechanics and Volvo botherers here -

 

How diyable is changing the crankshaft seal on Volvo V70 D5? Also, how many miles should the clutch last? It's at 114k and might be worth changing while in there.

Had a few v70s that have been described as having crankshaft oil leaks, usually by stealers. Never done anything to any of them . All survived. If your oil level is not falling then you have a weep, which may still be there, or possibly worse, when you have replaced the seal. If all drives ok and it is  not pissing out oil, leave well alone, and go down the pub instead.

  • Like 3
Posted

This might not be shite worthy, but as there are a few mechanics and Volvo botherers here -

 

How diyable is changing the crankshaft seal on Volvo V70 D5? Also, how many miles should the clutch last? It's at 114k and might be worth changing while in there.

As he said before I'd leave well alone. Changing clutches on 1990's onwards stuff on the driveway is for masochists. Most cars will weep a bit from the main seal as they get old, I'd leave it until it gets bad enough to cause problems with the clutch. Bearing in mind 'while your in there' you might likely find wear to the DMF, plus the cost of a new clutch plate and the concentric release bearing. Could last as long as you make it as far as clutch life, gentle use could see some time before it goes. Start towing caravans and lugging the clutch and less obviously.

Guest bangerfan101
Posted

So hrh Queen liz was 90 today. Do you think she's necked 10 Stellas and kicked fuck out a corgi yet?

Posted

This might not be shite worthy, but as there are a few mechanics and Volvo botherers here -

 

How diyable is changing the crankshaft seal on Volvo V70 D5? Also, how many miles should the clutch last? It's at 114k and might be worth changing while in there.

I went to look at and nearly bought an 05 D5 V70 last year. It had done 198k and was on the original clutch and DMF. A lot depends on how sympathetic the driver is and the type of use it's had. This one had done mostly motorway miles and I got the impression the owner was no boy racer.

Posted

Hi there... it's Mrs CITW here, on a profile hijack (with permission, Rich is at work)

 

So the bloody 405 just failed it's MOT, and needs a new rear load sensing valve and spring (not just the spring, the whole assembly). A new one seems to come in at around £130-50.  Ouch. Phoned the breakers and they don't have one but suggested that the part may be compatible with the 306 or another estate?  Can anyone possibly shed any light on whether that would be the case please?

 

Thanks!

 

Imi

Posted

4bebf67f9065814a8d45698761bfea9b.jpg

 

Bugger, it's a common failure on 405s.

The part numbers above may help, there's one on eBay for £74.

I've had a quick look on Service Box and a 306 compensator looks identical but it doesn't bring up part numbers, will check on the laptop when I get home.

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Ah, thankyou, that's/that'd be fab!

 

 

4bebf67f9065814a8d45698761bfea9b.jpg Bugger, it's a common failure on 405s. The part numbers above may help, there's one on eBay for £74. I've had a quick look on Service Box and a 306 compensator looks identical but it doesn't bring up part numbers, will check on the laptop when I get home.

Posted

xNcI9J1.png

 

306 brake pressure regulator

 

oaXbINJ.png

 

405 brake pressure regulator. (edit: I've looked again it brought up a totally different image for it! Peugeot parts catalogue is glitchy...)

 

They look very similar, but the part numbers are different so I think you need one for a 405.

Posted

 

306 brake pressure regulator

 

 

 

405 brake pressure regulator. (edit: I've looked again it brought up a totally different image for it! Peugeot parts catalogue is glitchy...)

 

They look very similar, but the part numbers are different so I think you need one for a 405.

Total guess on my behalf but could they have different "values" or "settings" but look the same physically?

Posted

Thanks guys :)

 

I'm now not at work after the Disco had a FTP on the way to collect the kids from school. I picked them up somewhat late in a xlwb van then had a thought and rang Dodgy Tom. He doesn't have the bit I need but suggested that I at least try bodging the valve back into working order before shelling out on a new one. Will give it a go in the morning before ordering the one LP suggested.

 

Thanks again LP, today has been an absolute ballache and someone taking time out to help has been a lifesaver.

  • Like 2
Posted

Do you have to return the counterpart of your driving licence if you've renewed it (10 year expiry)?

Posted

Hi mr and/or mrs inthewelder,

I had to do the compensator on my Berlingo which is the same rear axle as a 405.

 

I actually ended up getting it from ECP via whichever of their internet fronts offered the best price via googlable voucher codes.

 

A quick check of my email reveals it was ATE branded and £54.29 after discount.

 

Generally the valves don't break, they either seize up or the spring that attaches to the axle breaks (shit design imo.)

 

Hilariously the spring isn't available separately, the year before I bent a new hook on the old spring and got away with it, but this year I bit the bullet and replaced the valve as various rear end brake pipes needed replacing and wouldn't come out of the valve.

  • Like 1
Posted

700 miles in, Toledo EML lit today; Is it worth me trying to find my bluetooth ODB2 thingie, or do I need a VAG specific thing to start figuring out what's going on?

Posted
Hi mr and/or mrs inthewelder,

I had to do the compensator on my Berlingo which is the same rear axle as a 405.

 

I actually ended up getting it from ECP via whichever of their internet fronts offered the best price via googlable voucher codes.

 

A quick check of my email reveals it was ATE branded and £54.29 after discount.

 

Generally the valves don't break, they either seize up or the spring that attaches to the axle breaks (shit design imo.)

 

Hilariously the spring isn't available separately, the year before I bent a new hook on the old spring and got away with it, but this year I bit the bullet and replaced the valve as various rear end brake pipes needed replacing and wouldn't come out of the valve.

 

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Peugeot_405_1.9_1996/p/car-parts/brake-hydraulics/brakes/other-brake-hydraulics/?130735000&1&123ed5a27afd6724f2f206bbb29fe7c15121cf4e&000417

 

Bingo, I didn't think ECP would have it.

About £75 with their 20% discount.

Posted

Thanks chaps. I have dragged the 405 back to work from the test centre but haven't had chance to tinker with it yet. Brought the Citroen van home but need to collect that from a mile away later as I used it to fetch the Disco incase it needed a jump start. Disco is now home and seems to be running better for a fresh fuel filter though the tank might be leaking slightly.

  • Like 1
Posted

I will bet ONE BRITISH POUND that it's actually just the end snapped off the spring, my tester put it down as seized but all they really see is that it doesn't move when they bounce the suspension.

Posted
700 miles in, Toledo EML lit today; Is it worth me trying to find my bluetooth ODB2 thingie, or do I need a VAG specific thing to start figuring out what's going on?

 

Get the £5 blue vagcom wire off ebay, will do everything you need as long as it's not canbus.

 

Is the toledo based on a mk4 or mk5 golf?

Posted

700 miles in, Toledo EML lit today; Is it worth me trying to find my bluetooth ODB2 thingie, or do I need a VAG specific thing to start figuring out what's going on?

It's been on intermittently since about 65k. I took it to a specialist who said something like 'auxiliary air pump' or some such and reckoned it wasn't an issue. Assuming trigger didn't do anything with it then I found that disconnecting the battery for half hour tended to knock it off and it'd stay off for around 5k miles.

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