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Posted

Every car would be disabled by an EMP. Even without an ECU you still have a fuel pump and spark to worry about

Posted

Old diesels would survive. Mechanical fuel pump, no spark. That said, most would have a stop solenoid that would shut off if the power went I think, so you'd have to disable that first.

Posted

So

isn't realistic then? :( (should be using the starting handle!)
Guest Leonard Hatred
Posted
Leonard: would you suggest it's possible to sit the used veg oil for a hwile in the right temps (10 degrees plus) then run it through a fine micron filter and just add a splash of something like diesel or petrol? I'd like to make this work without going to stacks of trouble or having to store anything dodgy to mix it with.

 

Yeah, just filter the good oil that's settled above the shitey stuff at the bottom. If you add petrol or diesel before settling, it settles quicker and at lower temperatures. There's an obvious divide between the shit grey/white stuff at the bottom and the golden oil at the top. If the divide isn't clear, don't use it.

In summer if your car has a heated filter or a fuel heat exchanger you can run a 100% mix of waste oil without any issues.

 

All my setup consists of is some 25l drums for clean oil, a tarp to cover the waste oil drums, 1 micron filter and a home-made filter stand.

 

Old diesels would survive. Mechanical fuel pump, no spark. That said, most would have a stop solenoid that would shut off if the power went I think, so you'd have to disable that first.

 

All you'd need to do is unscrew the stop solenoid, take the pin out, and screw it back in. TOP ELECTROMAGNETIC PULSE ADVICE.

Posted

Crikey Imo, that's the most bizarre thing I've ever seen! Demonstrate your new van by burying it!

Posted
Crikey Imo, that's the most bizarre thing I've ever seen! Demonstrate your new van by burying it!

 

Isn't it just? Bizarre! But not as much so as some folks round here seriously take their shite without so much of a pinch of salt! :roll:

Posted
Leonard: would you suggest it's possible to sit the used veg oil for a hwile in the right temps (10 degrees plus) then run it through a fine micron filter and just add a splash of something like diesel or petrol? I'd like to make this work without going to stacks of trouble or having to store anything dodgy to mix it with.

 

Yeah, just filter the good oil that's settled above the shitey stuff at the bottom. If you add petrol or diesel before settling, it settles quicker and at lower temperatures. There's an obvious divide between the shit grey/white stuff at the bottom and the golden oil at the top. If the divide isn't clear, don't use it.

In summer if your car has a heated filter or a fuel heat exchanger you can run a 100% mix of waste oil without any issues.

 

All my setup consists of is some 25l drums for clean oil, a tarp to cover the waste oil drums, 1 micron filter and a home-made filter stand.

 

Old diesels would survive. Mechanical fuel pump, no spark. That said, most would have a stop solenoid that would shut off if the power went I think, so you'd have to disable that first.

 

All you'd need to do is unscrew the stop solenoid, take the pin out, and screw it back in. TOP ELECTROMAGNETIC PULSE ADVICE.

 

 

Nice one cheers, I shall experiment with that.

Posted

Sorry LH, just to clarify something: If I get one empty clean container and one full container of waste veg oil can I stand the waste for a while then carefully pour it into the clean drum and put a filter between them? I'm thinking if I filter it through until the colour starts changing and/or the crud starts coming through I can then put diesel (or whatever) as an additive (sp?) to the clean drum then possibly filter once more? I would surmise I'd be left with about 60-75% of filtered veg oil in the new drum which I would then top up with diesel or whatever as above? I think the best way is to experiment with a very small amount to start off with and see how it works.

 

I can almost certainly score some nominally empty 25 litre solvent drums with Tri-sure caps and can get a brass tap for them which may help. The only problem then would be that the tap end is the only opening so if turned over (or if I knock a drum stand up) then the crap would be directly near to the tap.

 

I hope that makes sense and doesn't look stupid as I suspect it might :cry:

Posted

Land Rover magazines regularly have features on how to make 'proper' biodiseasel. I've got one somewhere with a feature about such things.

 

IF I remember, I'll give it to ya next time I see ya.

Posted

No great secret. Have done 50k plus on 90%+ straight cooking oil. Free, from le pub. What's the huge fuss? If you run a shite vehicle it won't complain. Only the C21st crap which will dissolve :mrgreen:

Posted

Cheers Pete.

Guest Leonard Hatred
Posted
No great secret. Have done 50k plus on 90%+ straight cooking oil. Free, from le pub. What's the huge fuss? If you run a shite vehicle it won't complain. Only the C21st crap which will dissolve :mrgreen:

 

Nobody said it was a secret.

Plenty of shite vehicles will complain, especially those with old fuel hoses or Lucas/CAV injection pumps.

Posted

Remember all those little stick-on silicon pennants you used to get? The ones with place names on, so you could make the back/side window of the car look like a grand tour of UK seaside towns. Where the hell did they go? Surely they're so retro, they're due a comeback? Or does some anally retentive type have a massive collection of them?

Posted

Check out isaydingdong (link to pennants here http://stores.ebay.co.uk/I-Say-Ding-Don ... =173460483) Funny enough the Felixstowe ones he sells i had specially made up for my old 1602 as i thought it was funny at the time, Then whilst watching The Royale Familys christmas special last year i saw the same sticker stuck to the wall of the caravan they was staying in.

Posted

3732364018_0b29ce4ae4_z.jpg

 

 

If I had been to Pixieland Fun Park, I would have kept quiet about it :)

Posted

If I had a 'Wales' badge on my car I'd put the window through :lol:

Posted

Not sure if we've had this one but why do you get fewer miles from the lower half of the fuel guage than from the upper part? Are they calibrated so that when the needle sits at half full (or half empty, depending on your point of view) you've actually used more than half the tank?

Posted
Not sure if we've had this one but why do you get fewer miles from the lower half of the fuel guage than from the upper part? Are they calibrated so that when the needle sits at half full (or half empty, depending on your point of view) you've actually used more than half the tank?

 

Because the sender only goes 90% up the tank plus you have the fuel in the pipe.

Posted

The stickered window picture.....

 

Left hand side, halfway up.

 

I swore that said "I TIGHT SNATCH" when I first looked.

Posted

I realise the infinite number of variables in play here, but... :wink:

 

Range Rover 2.5DHSE auto, 98S, 186k, rebuilt motor, newish suspension bags, generally good nick - is £1800 fair?

 

I thank you.

Posted
... some really good advice on Rangies ...

Cheers, Tayne - appreciated :)

Posted
I realise the infinite number of variables in play here, but... :wink:

 

Range Rover 2.5DHSE auto, 98S, 186k, rebuilt motor, newish suspension bags, generally good nick - is £1800 fair?

 

I thank you.

 

No. The 2.5 diseasel 'powered' Rangie is an utterly gutless p.o.s and an insult to the Range Rover badge. That engine has issues pulling an Omega Estate along, add 600kg and 4wd and it's a recipe for disaster. They're normally all knackered by 100k anyway.

 

Check airbags, heater matrix leaks, electrical faults, the list goes on with P38s. 4.6s are lovely when they work, but that's pretty rare, which is why a good late Classic is worth quite a bit more than a P38. As the Classic was built for 25 years by half blind Brummies this kinda shows how badly they cocked up with the P38. Great idea, terribly executed. Heater matrices leak from a little 50p rubber grommet. It's a case of 12 hours to remove the dash to replace it if you don't want to take a chance with a circular saw trying to bodge a fresh one in. Then about eight hours to replace the dash afterwards. K-seal doesn't work.... tried that.

 

If you cannot afford / don't want a V8 one, don't buy one. Simples. That diesel BMW lump should never have been fitted to 'em.

 

I bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee with LPG for less, and it'll do 90% of what the Range Rover does with 20% of the grief.

 

Oh, by the way, I adore Range Rovers, but the P38 is the one I'd avoid. Especially after owning one.

Posted

 

 

Cars like the Beetle have vents on the floor, which do the square root of fuck all in the cold

 

Indeed. Anyone who's ever spent more than an hour or so on a winters day riding in the back of an old Type 2 will confirm that VW really didn't know jack shit about warmth in those days.

 

Air cooled Porsche 911s, on the other hand, have furnaces hidden somewhere. Heaters on those things are immense.

 

Type 2 heaters are pants - you can buy booster fans to blow the heat through further/warmer/quicker but still pants.

Type 1, if looked after, are amazing. They have heater channels - hollow sills - so the entire inner sill gives out warmth, and the vents at the front get red hot. I had a pair of Airwalk trainers with a melted side where I'd left the heating on in my 1303, driven to Newquay, and wondered what the smell was.

 

Sadly in any VW, the heat exchangers are pricey so it's one of the first things to get junked in a "restoration".

 

 

Sorry to be so late responding to this,

 

911 heaters are brilliant because the heat exchangers are made by Porsche,

My old Trabant had an amazing heat exchanger, because it was made by Sachenring

VW T2 heat exchangers are shit because they are reproduction parts made in Brazil where its not cold

and they don't get it & miss out half of the fins to save money - I hate trying to buy new bits for old air-cooled.

 

Here's my SFQ; where do I post all the pictures of the shite I've seen like todays Uno

 

uno.jpg

 

& the two Chrysler Neons I saw in the same street as a Strada?

Posted
I really, really, really hate diesels.

 

Not true. I'm not a huge fan of diesels, but the BMW 2.5 in a Rangie just doesn't work for me. Rangies should be quiet, comfy and refined, the P38 diesel is none of those things.

 

Some cars are great as diesels. V6 TDi Skoda Superbs are great. TDV8 Range Rovers are great. Even the S-type Jag diesel ain't bad. Xantias should pretty much all be turbodieseasel engined. Transits sound wrong if they're not diesel. Merc V6 diesels are acceptable.

 

I think it's mainly to do with the fact that the petrol P38s are so good, and the P38 diesel is so bloody awful. LPG is the way to run a Rangie if you're too skint to fuel one with petrol. Don't ruin the whole experience by running a gutless diesel one instead.

 

PS - I do between 1000-1500 miles a week in diesels.

Posted

Has anybody used this site - BuyPartsBy, and were they ok? Also, what online tyre suppliers have any of you used, that you rated well?

Posted
Has anybody used this site - BuyPartsBy, and were they ok? Also, what online tyre suppliers have any of you used, that you rated well?

 

I've used Buypartsby and they seem pretty good. I have only bought tyres online once and it was from Kwikfit. They are as cheap as anybody if you pay online, you print out a receipt and take it to your nominated branch. I was ready for a fight about them finding "dangerous faults" on the car but they just fitted the tyres.

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