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Posted

I have made a cock up of my timings.

 

Is there any reason why my Saab might fail its MoT because the SID (display unit) is missing from the dash?

 

It means there's a loose cable dangling there, and no audible warnings (including the indicator tick, which is really weird).

 

The horn has stopped working and I've asked the garage to look into that, as it's an obvious fail, but I don't think the missing SID could be the cause of that... Could it?

 

Indicator warning lights only is OK -we had a  9-5 that passed four or five MOTs like this, bonus being that broken SID buzzer meant no annoying "bing bongs". Horn is also controlled by SID - the horn push is combined with steering wheel radio controls, and SID "filters" the signals before sending them on.

Posted

Indicator warning lights only is OK -we had a 9-5 that passed four or five MOTs like this, bonus being that broken SID buzzer meant no annoying "bing bongs". Horn is also controlled by SID - the horn push is combined with steering wheel radio controls, and SID "filters" the signals before sending them on.

I'll test this at the weekend - if I put the SID back in and the horn springs back into life I'll be a very happy man!
Posted

I'll test this at the weekend - if I put the SID back in and the horn springs back into life I'll be a very happy man!

 

If you don't want to refit the SID, grounding the brown/orange cable at SID should sound horn (ignition on or off). Early cars (98-04?) pin 11, later cars pin 17.

 

If you have one, the 97-04 Haynes manual has an accurate wiring diagram.

  • Like 3
Posted

Also - how twattish a job are front wheel bearings on an Alfa 156? Asking for a friend like.

Expect lots of fun trying to remove steel bolts from aluminium castings. I wouldn’t attempt it without a heat source.

  • Like 1
Posted

Could I get a slightly sheddy ('94) AX on a classic policy? Never had one before, because the mileage limits are to restrictive for a daily. 

 

 

 

I had a '94 AX Dimension last year. Couldn't get a Classic Policy for it, despite it being 23 years old.

 

Luckily my Saab insurers matched my NCB plus gave an additional 10% discount. Still cost me more that it was for the Mercedes 300E I ran before the AX.

  • Like 1
Posted

The octavia is throwing up a code for a camshaft position sensor.

Having a look on Amazon (which I'm finding great for car parts at the moment) and there is an Intermotor one for £18, a no name for £12 and a Delphi one for £35.

 

Silly question, is it worth going for anything other than the Delphi one?

Posted

The octavia is throwing up a code for a camshaft position sensor.

Having a look on Amazon (which I'm finding great for car parts at the moment) and there is an Intermotor one for £18, a no name for £12 and a Delphi one for £35.

 

Silly question, is it worth going for anything other than the Delphi one?

If you have a scrappies nearby I’d be tempted to nip in there lift two and pay for one. Then you’re fitting a genuine part. I’ve found especially with eBay parts price has little reflection on quality.

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Posted

Unfortunately my local scrappy only sells Gold plated parts or at least prices for them :(

Posted

For sensors I would always go original if you can. Heard so many stories of the cheap ones being crap.

  • Like 3
Posted

I do a bit of car breaking to keep the wolf from the door and have found some parts are far more valuable/sought after than I expected:

 

Vauxhall Omega manual gearboxes go into kit cars and I can't get enough to supply demand

Hyundai Coupe body control modules

Drivers side cup holder for Rover 75's, only ever had one and it went for high quids  

 

I'd welcome a raised awareness of other such parts that are in high demand/command a premium as I'm a proper scrap yard ferret, I can always keep an eye out for any bit's you guys need, at cost obviously 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey guys, has anyone replaced the wash/wipe pump on a Xantia before?  Cannae find owt online for it and I don't have an hbol.  A good start would be, do you know where it is?  They're cheap to buy on ebay, but not sure how much of a pig of a job it is. 

Anyone have history with this?

It's an S2 HDi 109.

Cheers...

Posted

Hey guys, has anyone replaced the wash/wipe pump on a Xantia before? Cannae find owt online for it and I don't have an hbol. A good start would be, do you know where it is? They're cheap to buy on ebay, but not sure how much of a pig of a job it is.

Anyone have history with this?

It's an S2 HDi 109.

Cheers...

I'm not sure where it is on a Xantia, possibly buried in the wheel arch somewhere. The hardest part is removing everything in the way of the pump if that's the case, it's probably accessed through the wheel arch liner.
Posted

I'm not sure where it is on a Xantia, possibly buried in the wheel arch somewhere. The hardest part is removing everything in the way of the pump if that's the case, it's probably accessed through the wheel arch liner.

 

That's what i was afraid of ha ha - I have some arch-liner issues that I've been happily avoiding.

Posted

It's plugged into the bottom of the tank. I can't remember exactly how you get to it but it's not hard. It's a service item, six months is a good innings for one of those pumps.

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Posted

 

 

I'd welcome a raised awareness of other such parts that are in high demand/command a premium as I'm a proper scrap yard ferret, I can always keep an eye out for any bit's you guys need, at cost obviously 

 

Capri Ghia wheels, £5 scrap, up to £25 in decent nick. You could sell me 4 now!

XR2i wheels up to £20 each, but I have loads.

Any Escort RWD diff is worth much coin. Full rear axle £200. Cortina 3/4/5 front uprights £50 a side min.

Morris 1000 steering rack £60. MG Midget pre 72 rack,, which is a LHD minor, £60.

Zetec 2.0 Blacktop engine, up to £150, if running.

Apart from XR2i wheels and Cortina uprights, message me for first dibs please.

Posted

Really 'stupid' question: what is the best 'stop leak' type product that won't knacker everythng?

 

XJ has an 'interesting leak: driving along, no leak, stop the car no leak, drive away later, no leak. All good yeah? Well, no! Leave it overnight, start it and it blows coolant out of the front of the car! Only about a small cupful but it's being blown out of the lower radiator grille and then forward. I am assuming that the rad is leaking a tiny amount overnight and then when sarted, the fan is blowing it out. Quite why it's being blown out forward I have no idea as I would have thought it would be blown into the engine bay?

Posted

Isn't that a bit 'severe'? Likely to block stuff up that you don't want blocking?

  • Like 1
Posted

Really 'stupid' question: what is the best 'stop leak' type product that won't knacker everythng?

 

XJ has an 'interesting leak: driving along, no leak, stop the car no leak, drive away later, no leak. All good yeah? Well, no! Leave it overnight, start it and it blows coolant out of the front of the car! Only about a small cupful but it's being blown out of the lower radiator grille and then forward. I am assuming that the rad is leaking a tiny amount overnight and then when sarted, the fan is blowing it out. Quite why it's being blown out forward I have no idea as I would have thought it would be blown into the engine bay?

 

I'd be more tempted to get the rad soldered up if it's in otherwise good nick.

Posted

No, given that Bars Leaks was used by many Jaguar specialists to cute minor leaks.

 

I’ve used it on several occasions and it’s never failed me. Of course if it’s a simple repair or a gasket then just do it properly. But sometimes it has its place to solve minor leaks that just won’t seal.

Posted

We use Bars leaks, the crumbly stuff in a tube. Works well on small holes.

aka dog turd

Posted

I shall acquire some K seal then. Don't think any bugger round here sells it - ECP? It's a weird leak that only shows up after it's been left a day or two, when started it then blows coolant out of the FRONT of the car, bottom grille. Use it and no leak, park it, all fine just when yu start it when it's been stood for a day or so. It seems to me to be a small leak in the rad that is sitting in the fan shroud (possibly?) and then getting blown out though I always thought the fan blew into the car not out... but what do I know :(

Posted

Sounds like a leak from a plastic housing meeting a metal one, under heat the two expand then when it cools down it will not face quite enough to seal. I’d be quite confident that it will work, it’s usually about £10 or thereabouts at ECP.

Posted

My folding camper thing has no front lights. Has a towing board for the rears. So I have ordered son quality drl things of eBay. I want to wire them to the battery in the front locker and then out a waterproof switch on said locker. So I can turn them on if needed. So how do I go about it. Can I Chuck them all on one switch or do they need individual. My other option is just connect all the wires to crocodile clips and just connect them to battery when needed. Thank you

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