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Posted

Old age + memory = bugger.

 

Ta for the info.

Weirdly it’s a very common misconception/ urban myth. Apparently they lightened the block to make the 1275 faster and to allow easier servicing, which is utter bollocks as it’s the smaller blocks that have them but I must have heard this a couple of dozen times over the years.
Posted

In my case it's just poor memory of running a Metro years ago.

  • Like 1
Posted

there's a new old stock lucas 7" sealed beam unit in one of my boxes of crap in the garage you can have for postage if it's any use to you ? I think I posted it on here before but suprisingly* had no takers :)

 

If nobody else has asked, please may I have it?

 

The tappet chest covers were always difficult to keep oil tight. The trick is to clean the mating surfaces thoroughly and use the synthetic gaskets. Cork ones are okay but can't be re-used. And many people make the mistake of tightening up the retaining nuts; this distorts (ruins) the gasket and it leaks. Just nip it up until you see it drawing down the cover plate no more. The 'O' rings for the bolts must also be in good condition.

Posted

Over tightening gaskets etc is the most common mistake I find on cars & bikes I've worked on.

Posted

If nobody else has asked, please may I have it?

 

The tappet chest covers were always difficult to keep oil tight. The trick is to clean the mating surfaces thoroughly and use the synthetic gaskets. Cork ones are okay but can't be re-used. And many people make the mistake of tightening up the retaining nuts; this distorts (ruins) the gasket and it leaks. Just nip it up until you see it drawing down the cover plate no more. The 'O' rings for the bolts must also be in good condition.

I did send a PM to gm about it the other day but not had a response :(

Posted

CV joints.

 

I have a vague idea how they work in theory, but could do with some practical pointers.  Whilst buggering about swapping wishbones on the Audi I managed to pull the driveshaft out of the CV joint.  I only discovered this when I started it up and put it in gear and it wouldn't move.  The driveshaft wouldn't simply slot back in obvs, that would have been too easy, so I had to peel back the CV boot to see where I needed to go - whereupon I was greeted by a shower of ball bearings.  I've managed to get most of them back in, but there are two which wouldn't go in - or at least they would, but then the centre bit of the joint (with the splines for the driveshaft) wouldn't move.  So the car is now capable of movement again, but the situation is obviously less than ideal.

 

So my questions are twofold:  firstly, what am I doing wrong with regard to the two ball bearings I can't get back in (and also how do I get them back in without all the others falling out again) - I know what it's supposed to look like in theory but with everything covered in grease it's hard to see exactly what's what.  Secondly, I appreciate I need to sort it out before I drive any distance, but will I be able to manoeuvre the car around as it is, or will everything fall out again as soon as I apply more than 2° of lock?

Further to the above, should the driveshaft even be able to just pull out of the CV joint like that?  Google seems to suggest that there should be some kind of clip holding it in place. :?

Posted

Further to the above, should the driveshaft even be able to just pull out of the CV joint like that?  Google seems to suggest that there should be some kind of clip holding it in place. :?

No.

 

There's normally a circlip thing in a groove on the driveshaft that locks it in place onto the inner bearing cage.

 

Without that, on lock and with load, the shaft is likely to come pinging out.

  • Like 1
Posted

or a minor, the Morris cover would suggest a minor but could have been changed.

 

 

Wasn't MG part of Morris-Wolseley group?

Posted

Very late in the day  - BUT

 

BRANDS HATCH - WATCHING? - I've driven it before a long way back...... but have never watched a race there. Touring Cars Season ends Sunday - I'm with munchkin, picking up Bramz BMW and seeing London Saturday. Plan is to take minima to his first 'proper' race event Sunday as a surprise on the way back out of the UK...... 

 

I know the grandstand will probably be long sold out - so where should I look to get a good view of the racing with the munchkin? 

 

Any advice most welcome.......

Posted

I did send a PM to gm about it the other day but not had a response :(

sorry, I did reply but the message seems to have vanished - could be down to the crappy phone signal I get at work :(

 

anyway, I'll dig it out of the garage over the weekend and check it works before getting it in the post for you

 

cheers

 

gm

Posted

 

 

I know the grandstand will probably be long sold out - so where should I look to get a good view of the racing with the munchkin? 

 

Any advice most welcome.......

 

 

It's been years (about 35) since I've been but Graham Hill bank was always good. You could see them come down off the first 'straight' then right around the bottom of the bank after Druids & on to the indy circuit back towards the start finish 'straight'.

Posted

Wasn't MG part of Morris-Wolseley group?

MG were always keen to badge anything as MG so can’t imagine it would have smeared under the bonnet of a midget with that cover on. Nothing to say the rocker cover is original though as they fit all sorts.
Posted

If the brake pad wear indicator wire is missing on the pads , and the plug / wire  is joined to make the light go out is that an mot fail ?  Plenty of meat on the pads visible

Posted

If the brake pad wear indicator wire is missing on the pads , and the plug / wire is joined to make the light go out is that an mot fail ? Plenty of meat on the pads visible

Common sense would say this is perfectly fine

Posted

Ok , new pads with no sensor fitted on the rear .New pads on front with sensor fitted . Obviously the light doesn't extinguish .... Jumper wire across the rear plug, light  goes out . Is it a pass or fail ? What's the wording in the book ?

Posted

It actually has been a while since we have had a pop at testers .

It's not the testers I have issue with, it's the rules.

Posted

The only rule i can see is the light must go out . However, could it fail on incorrect pads fitted ? Wire taped up /obviously tampered with?

Posted

CV joints.

 

I have a vague idea how they work in theory, but could do with some practical pointers. Whilst buggering about swapping wishbones on the Audi I managed to pull the driveshaft out of the CV joint. I only discovered this when I started it up and put it in gear and it wouldn't move. The driveshaft wouldn't simply slot back in obvs, that would have been too easy, so I had to peel back the CV boot to see where I needed to go - whereupon I was greeted by a shower of ball bearings. I've managed to get most of them back in, but there are two which wouldn't go in - or at least they would, but then the centre bit of the joint (with the splines for the driveshaft) wouldn't move. So the car is now capable of movement again, but the situation is obviously less than ideal.

 

So my questions are twofold: firstly, what am I doing wrong with regard to the two ball bearings I can't get back in (and also how do I get them back in without all the others falling out again) - I know what it's supposed to look like in theory but with everything covered in grease it's hard to see exactly what's what. Secondly, I appreciate I need to sort it out before I drive any distance, but will I be able to manoeuvre the car around as it is, or will everything fall out again as soon as I apply more than 2° of lock?

I’ve fucked about before taking these apart and I just wouldn’t bother. Get a complete shaft from J&R, they’re not dear.

Posted

Aye, I had another look at it today (after it lost drive again) and I'm not going to bother attempting to repair it - I'm sure I'd bugger something up.  I've found a complete outer CV joint kit for 15 quid on eBay so I'm going to order that in.  The driveshaft actually looks fairly new so I don't know if whoever fitted it "forgot" the circlip...

Posted

Very late in the day  - BUT

 

BRANDS HATCH - WATCHING? - I've driven it before a long way back...... but have never watched a race there. Touring Cars Season ends Sunday - I'm with munchkin, picking up Bramz BMW and seeing London Saturday. Plan is to take minima to his first 'proper' race event Sunday as a surprise on the way back out of the UK...... 

 

I know the grandstand will probably be long sold out - so where should I look to get a good view of the racing with the munchkin? 

 

Any advice most welcome.......

 

Paddock hill bend is a great place to watch from. Problem will be that most of the other spectators will have the same idea. Are they using the short circuit or the full circuit ? If its the full circuit there are some good places to watch out the back of the circuit where most people don't bother walking to.

Posted

Very late in the day - BUT

 

BRANDS HATCH - WATCHING? - I've driven it before a long way back...... but have never watched a race there. Touring Cars Season ends Sunday - I'm with munchkin, picking up Bramz BMW and seeing London Saturday. Plan is to take minima to his first 'proper' race event Sunday as a surprise on the way back out of the UK......

 

I know the grandstand will probably be long sold out - so where should I look to get a good view of the racing with the munchkin?

 

Any advice most welcome.......

I was there for the first time last month, watching a friend race minis in the rain. If the tunnel is open a really good spot is to the left of the exit on the pits side. There's a pair of walls that meet, looking like pointy end of a boat. You can see the whole of the short/Indy track except for a small section of Paddock Hill Bend. It may be closed during the more prestigious events though.
Posted

Was it a split rim splitting? I would guess at a dragging brake or failed bearings causing massive overheating and the corresponding rise in pressure. Lucky that the driver wasn't stood in front checking it, also lucky it only hit the front of that car and they managed to keep it straight.

Posted

I do actually know the lorry driver, although I haven't seen him since this happened. Apparently he was parked up and eating his lunch when it happened. I'm told it was the wheel complete with brake drum that went. The best guess so far is that heat from a binding brake soaked through the wheel and caused the tyre to blow out. 

  • Like 2
Posted

I do actually know the lorry driver, although I haven't seen him since this happened. Apparently he was parked up and eating his lunch when it happened. I'm told it was the wheel complete with brake drum that went. The best guess so far is that heat from a binding brake soaked through the wheel and caused the tyre to blow out.

 

Wow! Lucky no one was seriously hurt, I bet he got a shock when he saw what had happened.
Posted

The only rule i can see is the light must go out . However, could it fail on incorrect pads fitted ? Wire taped up /obviously tampered with?

 

If abs is fitted it could be down as "wiring damaged". Best thing to do is tape it up so no bare wires showing then cable tie it out of the way.

Posted

the ever reliable* u-tuber Scotty Kilmer advises against moving from semi-synth to fully-synth oil on older cars, because they are 'used' to it. What are the opinions on here? Bull or is there something in it?

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