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Posted

No, it's a tourer. I think they were made a bit longer.( the rover, not the xantia)

Posted

How are we collectively storing our spare gearboxes?    I have just picked a couple up that look really good and deserve better than my usual stand-it-on-bellhouse-end-until-you-forget-what-it-was-for regime.   Would rather not fill with oil but if its imperative then I probably would......

Guest Hooli
Posted

I'd fill it with oil, or at least get some in and sloshed about to stop it rusting.

Posted

Skoda Fabia:

 

Is it chain or belt driven cam in these? What’s the time interval if it’s done super low miles?

Posted

Depends what engine. Mainly belt i think, certainly the diesels are, the petrols not so sure.

 

Think the diesels are about 50k miles/8 years.

Posted

My 1985 Jaguar XJ6 has 2 different wiper arms, but which one is correct?

 

Option A )

post-20795-0-23191300-1531366693_thumb.jpg

 

Option B )

post-20795-0-49875000-1531366767_thumb.jpg

Posted

Has anyone here changed the gear selector mechanism on a mk2 Seat Leon before? Or in fact any VAG group vehicle (A3, Mk5 Golf, Octavia, etc)?

 

My gear shifting problem seems to be related to the selector mechanism under the gearstick rather than the box itself.

 

I have watched the vids where it all looks so easy (well it would with the box and mech on a bench) but has anyone done it “for real”, what did you do, and is it easier to sack it off to a garage?

 

I would have a go myself but without knowing what’s broken I don’t know for sure if it’s a 5p bush or something more fundamental and am reluctant to tear the car apart in case I can’t reassemble it! Any guidance or thoughts appreciated

Posted

I wonder if the fins on rear brake drums are used as abs sensors.

Posted

Has anyone here changed the gear selector mechanism on a mk2 Seat Leon before? Or in fact any VAG group vehicle (A3, Mk5 Golf, Octavia, etc)?

 

My gear shifting problem seems to be related to the selector mechanism under the gearstick rather than the box itself.

 

I have watched the vids where it all looks so easy (well it would with the box and mech on a bench) but has anyone done it “for real”, what did you do, and is it easier to sack it off to a garage?

 

I would have a go myself but without knowing what’s broken I don’t know for sure if it’s a 5p bush or something more fundamental and am reluctant to tear the car apart in case I can’t reassemble it! Any guidance or thoughts appreciated

same as a mk4 golf ?    the gearstick on those is in a box that drops down after 4 bolts (plus heat sheild and exhaust )  nothing to it , can be replaced or rebuild once off the car

 

whats wrong with it?

 

have you tried this?

Posted

My Volvo 740 is being recalcitrant. It did Wales and back last weekend and was fine, however upon trying to start it now it fires up but then dies immediately without throttle application. With the throttle mashed it will just about chug and phut at idle, and oocasionally pick up enough to reach higher revs (2000ish rpm+) where it takes off and seems to be fine until you release the throttle and it dies again.

I have limited time and really need it working so if anybody has experienced this before and has sage advice that would save me potentially wiggling/cleaning/glueing/prodding/hitting things unneccesarily, it would be very much appreciated.

 

Here's a video to accompany my crap explanation.

 

https://youtu.be/aYHs1jmfzTc

  • Like 2
Posted

^ big air leak like a split hose etc ..have alook at the dizzy cap /arm etc

Posted

My brother is looking at buying a 2009 Focus 1.8 TDCi.  What are these like?  I know the PSA engine in the 1.6s had a fairly poor reputation, but the 1.8 is a Ford effort I believe - is it any better?  Does it nom DMFs and injectors like the Mk3 Mondeos did?

Guest Penelope Pitstop
Posted

Skoda Fabia:

 

Is it chain or belt driven cam in these? What’s the time interval if it’s done super low miles?

All the Fabia diesel engines are belt driven. The petrol 2.0 engine and the 1.4 16-valve petrol engine are belt driven; the petrol 1.0/1.2 engines and the 1.4 8-valve petrol engine are all chain driven.

According to Autodata: 'Skoda UK recommend the timing belt is replaced every 4 years if the replacement mileage is not reached.'

Posted

My Volvo 740 is being recalcitrant. It did Wales and back last weekend and was fine, however upon trying to start it now it fires up but then dies immediately without throttle application. With the throttle mashed it will just about chug and phut at idle, and oocasionally pick up enough to reach higher revs (2000ish rpm+) where it takes off and seems to be fine until you release the throttle and it dies again.

I have limited time and really need it working so if anybody has experienced this before and has sage advice that would save me potentially wiggling/cleaning/glueing/prodding/hitting things unneccesarily, it would be very much appreciated.

 

Here's a video to accompany my crap explanation.

 

https://youtu.be/aYHs1jmfzTc

 

Fuel pressure regulator? Is it one of the 'redblock' engines?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7VEE75UHeE

 

I'd actually check the fuel pressure properly first before spunking any cash on one as they seem to be silly money, I was looking recently, not many available and even aftermarket stuff seem to be getting on for a ton :ph34r:

Posted

As far as I know the 1.8 TDCI is much better than the 2.0 fitted to the Mk3. But obviously its at the age where it could have failing injectors anyway, but on the whole its a lot better yes.

Posted

Need to replace a length of PAS hose on the Mondeo, needless to say this will either be unobtainable from Ford or £11,583.20 + VAT.

 

Where could I obtain some hose of the correct diameter that I could mould to fit?

Posted

Its the feed from the reservoir to the pump. Might try some of that. How would I make it so it was following a contour? Heat it up?

Posted

Just drained the oil on my old Audi. Went to replace sump plug. Half way in the memory just started to surface...then it stripped. Booger!

 

Anyone used the rethread kits? Like this - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/laser-5227-m15-x-1-5-oil-sump-repair-kit/

 

Not sure I ought to try on a steel sump but needs must etc.

 

There are cheaper on ebay but would like to repair this weekend as someone has expressed an interest in taking the jalopy off me.

Posted

Its the feed from the reservoir to the pump. Might try some of that. How would I make it so it was following a contour? Heat it up?

 

Leave the old one in situ and cable tie the new bit to it?

Posted

same as a mk4 golf ?    the gearstick on those is in a box that drops down after 4 bolts (plus heat sheild and exhaust )  nothing to it , can be replaced or rebuild once off the car

 

whats wrong with it?

 

have you tried this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sheTKD03hmo

Have seen the vid and will be resetting the cables at the weekend, looks pretty straightforward.

 

Shifter has gone sloppy. Reverse engages ok, as does 3rd and 4th but the positive action has gone. First can be located if you push the stick down (as if going for reverse) but putting the stick forward slightly to the right of where reverse is. Second can be found if you change into it quickly from first but otherwise can’t be selected. Fifth has vanished, even having the stock hard over to the right and slotting forward Into where fifth is, I can only get third.

 

I suspect a washer or bush has collapsed somewhere on the shaft allowing too much movement but cables first just to eliminate that possibility.

Posted

Its the feed from the reservoir to the pump. Might try some of that. How would I make it so it was following a contour? Heat it up?

 

That 's the low pressure line then. The hose is pretty bendy/resistant to kinking really, perhaps just bend it round whatever corners it has to follow..... Difficult to say without seeing where it's got to go as to whether it would be asking too much of it.

 

Wouldn't fancy trying to heat it up TBH.

Posted

Its the feed from the reservoir to the pump. Might try some of that. How would I make it so it was following a contour? Heat it up?

Your from Sheffield aren't you. Could always try pertek between Valleys entertainment and gsf.

  • Like 2
Posted

Have seen the vid and will be resetting the cables at the weekend, looks pretty straightforward.

 

Shifter has gone sloppy. Reverse engages ok, as does 3rd and 4th but the positive action has gone. First can be located if you push the stick down (as if going for reverse) but putting the stick forward slightly to the right of where reverse is. Second can be found if you change into it quickly from first but otherwise can’t be selected. Fifth has vanished, even having the stock hard over to the right and slotting forward Into where fifth is, I can only get third.

 

I suspect a washer or bush has collapsed somewhere on the shaft allowing too much movement but cables first just to eliminate that possibility.

have a good look at the cable ends...might have fell apart

Posted

Just drained the oil on my old Audi. Went to replace sump plug. Half way in the memory just started to surface...then it stripped. Booger!

 

Anyone used the rethread kits? Like this - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/laser-5227-m15-x-1-5-oil-sump-repair-kit/

 

Not sure I ought to try on a steel sump but needs must etc.

 

There are cheaper on ebay but would like to repair this weekend as someone has expressed an interest in taking the jalopy off me.

I've never used one but I don't see any reason not to, assuming it's one size up from the stripped one.

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