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LightBulbFun's Invacar & general ramble thread, index on page 1, survivors lists on Pages 24/134 & AdgeCutler's Invacar Mk12 Restoration from Page 186 onwards, still harping on...


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Posted

Iirc on this age the programming of remote central locking is a magic sequence. For the ignition key on the immobiliser it's just a RF chip that needs programming iirc. 

I'm pretty sure Timpsons can do a basic ignition key that will start the car but not do remote central locking. They basically clone the chip from a good key into the new. As far as the ECU is concerned, it's the same key and no rolling codes on the immobiliser. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah here you go. Maybe a lot cheaper from an auto locksmith or even a local independent key shop (most can do car keys now as the margins are good) but it's one easy option at least.

 

Screenshot_20250627-141128.png

  • Like 1
Posted

I actually seem to remember vaguely that cheapskate scumbags GM actually only supplied one remote key and one just ignition key back in the day?

Given you have a code for immobiliser not recognising a key, it's probably worth getting another made in case that's on its way out. Or could be that the other key broke and that's why it's missing. Iirc the little glass RF chips were actually removable from the key and could fall out if someone fiddled with it too much. 

Back in the early 2000s, they were knocking these out mega cheap as first car special deals. Especially at this age they were a runout model and so heavily discounted new as the new model had just come out.

Anyone remember the Corsa c'mon adverts of the Corsa D at the around the same time where you could get a free plush toy?

 

 

 

 

If you remember that, it'll age you 🤣

Posted
40 minutes ago, beko1987 said:

Re the key, in the book pack is there a business card with a key code on it? That's quite important for vauxhalls iirc.

When the CIM module went in the ex's Zafira we didn't have that code, so any thoughts of doing anything to fix would have started with an expensive trip to somewhere/vauxhall to get the code off the ecu and then you can start...

 

(CIM module sits beind the steering wheel and controlled the horn/lights/audible beeps etc. The horn limped on until the end but the car never had a door or lights on warning buzzer when we had it 😂 A corsa probably doesn't have that so shouldn't be an issue, but I imagine the code is key for any of them. Luckily for the ex the whole exhaust fell off on her and she scrapped the car before it was due to fail it's next mot in the inop horn 🤷)

 

Ecp won't give a toss about refunds as long as you have the receipt and the part isn't used/trashed etc. Always check all parts before leaving too, I've had instances of the wrong part being in the box etc before and it's 95% more annoying when you've gone home, stripped the car down THEN realise 

Important back in the day but iirc a knock-off opcom can extract it out of the modules anyway for years. Also most half decent auto locksmiths can program new keys in these without a working key. Just will cost a bit more in their time to do that and decode the door lock. Or you chuck a second hand ECU/key/immo reader set on it 

I'm almost certain these don't have a CIM. Electrically the Corsa C is very similar to the Astra G/Zafira A. Where as the Corsa D was closer to the Astra H/Zafira B. 

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, SiC said:

I actually seem to remember vaguely that cheapskate scumbags GM actually only supplied one remote key and one just ignition key back in the day?

Just like our new Ford Ranger at work, minimum options and wouldn't have qualified for an L badge in the 70's.

Dez, l have a copy of Opcom and OBDII for PC if you want to try it.

  • Like 2
Posted

the reverse lights on my vectra b stopped working-( i would imagine the gearboxes etc are similar to corsa)

took switch out & it tested ok- back in car it work put lights on once then stop

new switch stopped all that bolox!

  • Like 1
Posted
18 hours ago, LightBulbFun said:

thanks for the heads up on the website, looks like according to them the oil filter changed at a certain engine number series/late in 2006, so thats good to know :) 

Yeah, they give you the information so you can check if it's suitable. A lot easier than the vague ECP maybe compatible cobblers.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 27/06/2025 at 07:12, SiC said:

A quick Google says that the fuse is shared with the cigarette lighter - a bit random wiring but then GM does weird stuff like this. Anyway does that work? Often people accidentally drop coins and such into them due to their position which pops it. 

Otherwise likely the switch on the gearbox or the wiring. 

all hail the man who's user name is Latin for "So, Thus" :) 

IMG_2702.jpeg.d3d88ede867c7c400f02e3ed90fdcde6.jpeg

also Minus points to me for not RTFM'ing properly as it turns out the owners handbook does state  Fuse Position 25, cigarette lighter/reverse lights (seems a bit strange putting something a bit safety orientated like reverse lights on the same cirucit as the 12V outlet which is statically much more likely to get blown/overloaded as you say)

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someone had clearly been in here before as the number 25 fuse was completely missing, and a bunch of 15A's in place of what should be 20A's further more when we discovered these where mini-fuses and that I did not have any to hand, and so we started the ol Autoshite routine of what circuit can we pinch a fuse from that we can risk having disabled if the fuse instantly blows, that right above position 25, is a 15A (that should be 20A) fuse in position 18, which according to the manual is for the Sunroof, something this car does not have, so I do wonder if someone tried to replace the fuse for the 12V socket/reverse lights, stuck it in the wrong slot, and then gave up? 

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so with nothing to lose we pinched the fuse from that slot, and low and behold the reverse lights came to life! always nice when its an easy fix :) 

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(a trip to halfords to get some correct fuses and replacement indicator bulbs for the ones that are not so orange anymore will be happening before not too long)

the engine light did come back on, and in true Autoshite fashion, the code reader I got, which I handed to my brother since theres no point me having it, Invacars dont exactly ODB2 ports... has already been completely lost/miss placed/vanished into the ether LOL, so another has been ordered, I imagine its going to be the same code as last time, but always good to check these things I suppose

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but in better news, after noticing that the alloy's have locking wheel bolts, amazingly after a bit of rummaging we managed to find the key for them in the glove box, so I told my brother to *not* lose that

I also grabbed a picture of the cars "Pass codes" ones labelled key code and the other is labelled radio code, but theres a 3rd string of numbers labelled as "SEC" what would that be for?

Posted

That card keep hold of or take a photo. One is radio, one is key and the other is the security code for immobiliser/reprogramming modules. 

Code reader, just do what any old BMW owner does and let it live in the glovebox. Keeps it with the car where you're most likely to use it and also useful if you get a light ping up when out. 

  • Like 2
Posted
22 minutes ago, LightBulbFun said:

all hail the man who's user name is Latin for "So, Thus" :) 

Or Silicon Carbide 

Or Standard Industrial Classification 

Or modern slang for sick as in cool/awesome/etc

Or just my first name and initial 

Posted
7 minutes ago, SiC said:

Or Silicon Carbide 

Or Standard Industrial Classification 

Or modern slang for sick as in cool/awesome/etc

Or just my first name and initial 

AKA QED? I still read it as Second in Charge, which is, clearly, wrong

Posted

Guy on the left is wearing bicycle clips? Don't see those much these days :-) 

Posted
4 hours ago, davocano said:

Stolen from facebook

lightbulbfun.jpg.4d4692b4966f57eb444324bc829a7562.jpg

very cool! a very nice photo I have not seen before of an AC Acedes and a DC8! both of tricycle wheel configuration, and maybe even the same style of cockpit controls!

AC-Acedes-04.jpg

 

speaking of invalid vehicles! pleased to report that it sounds like HWD365, the Carter that @barrett notfied me of, is off to a good home, was won at auction by a microcar enthusiast who plans to restore it by the sounds of things, so I am pleased to hear that :) 

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and also many thanks to @AdgeCutler for collecting all the many lightbulbs I had won myself at that auction, there where some nice oldies there that I very much wanted so I very much am thankful! :) (and many thanks to @barrett for making me aware of the auction the first place! :)

Posted

in my brothers Corsa news, we took it to a garage today to get it a bit of a going over, Garage says, exhaust is pretty much shot and everything after the cat will want replacing, but they dont think theres any head gasket issues to worry about (however they did not do a sniff or compression test) so thats a little bit swings n round abouts, still not 100% sure is it really ok or is it going to blow up LOL, but at least the general consensus is still positive and we an idea what will need doing on the exhaust front

they did however mention seeing a puff of white smoke from the exhaust on start up, and although I could not recall seeing anything like that previously, I did get my brother once at home to give the throttle a few blips and on of the blips there was a puff of smoke, but it looked more blue then white to me, but it only "puffed" once out of a few blips, so im trying not to read into that too much LOL

I think the game plan is look at getting a couple tyres fitted, I was reminded part worns are a thing so we will likely go down that route, just to get some half decent rubber on the thing, so we can safely take it for a longer motorway based trip and see how it does :) and if it does not implode/explode/drink-all-its-coolent etc, then we will see about getting the exhaust replaced

the main thing is of course my brother understandably does not want to plow a bunch of money into it, if the engine is suffering from HGF,  in that regard that perished tyre has been a right PITA since its preventing us from actually giving it an Italian tuneup 

 

speaking of PITA, almost quite literally, also looks like it picked up a scrape at some point where it looks like someones scraped themselves on the rear quarter? , we are not sure when it happened, checking the photos I have it was not there on the 28th of June, so sometime between now and then! obviously my brother is unhappy about it and trying to work out when/how it happened! 

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BTW as aside with an optimistic view to giving it a service once things have been figured out with the tyres/exhaust/engine etc!, anyone got any tips on what the best place/method to jacking it up with a regular trolly jack and placing axle stands? I know its got the dedicated jacking points for the spare tyre jack, but I am not sure how suitable they are for use with a regular jack if at all (I have not had a chance to pop off a cover and see)

  • Like 2
Posted

Part worns will be fine! I used to go to a place who would show me the inside of the tyres too. Especially on the rears, you won't get it driving fast enough to go sideways!

Sounds like an entire cheapest exhaust is the way forward, be easier to fit everything brand new as well (buy new clamps). Hopefully the O2 sensor comes out for you... I have a special socket for it and tried on the meriva but it was so rusted in I had to get a new sensor (significant part of the cost that was)

I don't think it's hgf either, it just needs a good run! Once it's fixed up smash it over to the fod and back one Saturday? Keep it pinned to 70/80 on the a41 and it'll soon fix itself! Or we can let @Six-cylinder take it up the tingewick bypass a few times?

I've always jacked using the pinch points on the sills. You'll probably see a flat mangled spot where it's been jacked up before! Then iirc the front axle stands went under the rear front subframe mounts, the rears possibly on one of the back axle mounts 

  • Like 2
Posted

You'd get a fair few years out of something like this before it rotted out on a join

https://ebay.us/m/aNGClA

Comes with the front flexi too. I remember that needing replacing on the meriva 

  • Like 1
Posted
24 minutes ago, beko1987 said:

Part worns will be fine! I used to go to a place who would show me the inside of the tyres too. Especially on the rears, you won't get it driving fast enough to go sideways!

yeah I have got no problems with part worns, I just clean forgot they where a thing! as I cant imagine there are many Invacar sized 145R10's and 125R12's entering the used-tyre-market these days, so part worns have never otherwise crossed my mind LOL

24 minutes ago, beko1987 said:

Sounds like an entire cheapest exhaust is the way forward, be easier to fit everything brand new as well (buy new clamps). Hopefully the O2 sensor comes out for you... I have a special socket for it and tried on the meriva but it was so rusted in I had to get a new sensor (significant part of the cost that was)

yeah not sure what state the O2 sensor is in given the EML/Codes its flashing up are about that, it might well be buggered in and of itself!

14 minutes ago, beko1987 said:

You'd get a fair few years out of something like this before it rotted out on a join

https://ebay.us/m/aNGClA

Comes with the front flexi too. I remember that needing replacing on the meriva 

oh neat! I have been wondering how much of a PITA would it be for my me and my brother to try and do it on the road side, but all the stories of snapped studs n things on here give me the fear LOL would I need any extra gaskets n clamps n ancillaries like that? (I know an Invacar Exhaust system has a few gaskets here n there) or would such a kit come with those bits?

24 minutes ago, beko1987 said:

I don't think it's hgf either, it just needs a good run! Once it's fixed up smash it over to the fod and back one Saturday? Keep it pinned to 70/80 on the a41 and it'll soon fix itself! Or we can let @Six-cylinder take it up the tingewick bypass a few times?

if it was not for the pershing tyre, thats was basically my plan, to get my brother to take me to pick up REV once all the work was done at Andyrew :) but I am not sure taking it on a fast A road/Motorway with a tyre in that state is wise?

(or well I would of probably picked up some lightbulbs off of eBay by now if not REV LOL)

Posted

Itll be the 3 studs holding the flexi section to the cat that will be the pain if any, I can't recall if you can just smash them out and replace with normal bolts though... You'd have to get under there and wire brush them down and spray something at them, their fairly easy to see iirc, but in the middle of the car.

You'd need 1 clamp for the backbox to centre section, and perhaps some new exhaust rubbers/hangers might be a good idea? Their fairly generic though so cheap and I guess if the existing ones aren't torn or perished it'll probably be OK!

Andyrews is probably the best place to have the bolts looked at anyway, once the tyres are done it'll be fine! Once you go fast enough all the exhaust fumes don't get a chance to hang around

  • Like 1
Posted
On 25/06/2025 at 22:03, beko1987 said:

The front flexi isn't leaking is it?

maybe just a little* bit....

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(I didn't actually know these flexible joints had springs in them like that, I suppose it makes sense to give them a bit of strength)

 

in Corsa news, as well as having a quick duck underneath and verifying "yep the exhaust is buggered" :) we took it to get some new front tyres fitted

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logistics, (who is open at short notice on a Sunday etc) meant the finest pair of budgets for £110 fully fitted etc for the pair got fitted

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if I am looking at things correctly I think theres a fair amount of meat left on that brake pad?  was not able to get an in depth look I just snuck a quick photo while the tyres where being changed :) 

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then with the new tyres fitted (and pressures set according to the owners manual, where someone previous to us had helpfully outlined them) we then took it for a blat up the M1 to my first time at a Tim Horton's just off Junction 5

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am I right in thinking its normal for the level to change slightly when you take the cap off and depressurise the system? coolant level did not change otherwise 

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and there was no mayo on the oil cap! also the check engine light even stayed off, so after a 2 hour round trip, ill take that as a nice re-assuring win! :) plan is now to go forward with fitting the exhaust, my brother is eager to try DIY it to save costs, and since the one @beko1987 linked to looks to be fairly simple, just 2 major parts, I figured its worth a shot, with the front flexi as buggered as it is already, I dont think we can make the exhaust any louder anyhow LOL (it certainly was pretty loud at 70) and at some point we will get the rear tyres changed too, since they are miss matched and are getting towards the end of life also, if anyone has any tips or tricks or gotcha's to watch out for regarding the exhaust im all ears :) (we are also planning a engine oil and filter service as well, maybe spark plugs and some other bits depending on how things go)

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and finally a short of its magnficant roof, for all the lacquer peel lickers out there :) (we also even managed to get the Radio presets programmed in for my brothers preferred stations, the small things :)

Posted

Nice! Those 3 bolts on the exhaust don't look too fucked* either! They'll still want a ton of wire brushing and plus gas but I can see threads! Once you undo those 3 bolts then release the exhaust clamps it should all fall off. Refitting is easier in the 2 sections though as you can fight the exhaust clamps on (washing up liquid works well for that.

I'd check/buy anyway a new gasket for the exhaust too, you'll want one looking at that join! I see the O2 sensor too, hopefully it won't fight too much. Again probably easier to unplug the wiring and tackle it off the car with the exhaust wedged under something.

Don't forget to fire the car up at least once with no exhaust at all! My exhaust fell off just after the manifold in my 1.4 zx and driving that the rest of the way home was hilarious! (once I'd stopped the rush hour traffic to retrieve the exhaust before someone ran over it and blamed me for damaging their car...)

Front pads do indeed look to have some meat on the front pad at least! The discs look quite liney though, but if it's braking fine leave it! I'd imagine it's seen more brake pads than discs in its time!

  • Like 1
Posted

Tyres seem fairly priced too, especially for a Sunday job

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Not much cheaper online 

  • Agree 1
Posted
28 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

Interesting front suspension setup.  Like an Austin 7 but even more basic.

They obviously saved their engineering flare for  the rear end.  It looks too complex for a rigid set-up (i.e. no suspension) but I've gazed at the photo for a while and still can't understand how it works! 

  • Like 1
Posted

It's not rigid in the strict sense as there are springs between the axle and the body (four of them in fact), but I'm also struggling to work out how the engine is mounted.

  • Like 1
Posted

and here I was simply looking at the petrol tank and thinking "interesting that its got a separate fuel and oil tank, I thought it would of just run on premix" :) 

6 hours ago, wuvvum said:

Like an Austin 7 but even more basic.

so the later Harding Putnley Model VI then? :)

Im340504CyCar-Hardings.jpg.a35422cf6c4ee21c05c7350855ecb60d.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

in Corsa news, my brother popped over with it, to begin its servicing, I have accrued  a few service items and and exhaust for it, so it was time to crack on, first step was to go to Halfords to get some remaining bits (and get the engine oil warmed up etc) we got stuck in some pretty bad traffic, but I didn't mind, as the air conditioning is still working :) my brother however had a few amusing choice words, every time traffic ground to a halt, or a pedestrian just randomly walked into the road as they do around here, as he is still re-learning the art of clutch-control

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whoever decided on this design of black-on-black graphic design for the Halfords Advance Ratchet axle stands, needs a slap, because it completely camouflages them!

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picked up a couple sets of the black 2 tonne ones for when we do the exhaust, with that and all the other bits in hand

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we headed home and started the service, first item done was the air filter, the old one (above) did not look too bad I think? but it was changed since we had the new one anyhow :) 

we then started on the oil change, where I realised I did not have the T45 torx bit to undo the sump plug, but thankfully I had the forsight to bring with me the electric oil transfer pump thing that @auntiemaryscanary very kindly sent me a while back :) 

On 19/11/2021 at 11:50, LightBulbFun said:

also with many thanks to @auntiemaryscanary who went out of his way to pick one up from his local Lidl and post it off for me, I had this arrive which should make doing Oil changes much easier! (especially seeing as the gearbox does not actually have a drain plug LOL)

image.thumb.png.59a5fc1d614c5e1f26b1a1ef1e743617.png

pleased to report it worked pretty well :)  its kinda impossible to tell when the hose has actually gone to the bottom of the sump, but after a bit of finagling we managed to suck all the oil out through the dip-stick tube, I admit as I kept shoving and pulling the tube to get the oil flowing strongly it kinda felt like I was giving the car a catheter! then after getting a bit medieval with a pair of mole grips because some monkey beforehand had done the the oil filter cap to LOL-tight and I did not have the comically large socket for the hex bit on the end

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we got the oil filter out, which unlike the air filter, clearly *did* need changing and indeed the oil we took out was quite black as well

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new filter (and new O-ring) in place and then, filled up with Amazon's finest Mannol 5W30 :) (and yes I did make sure to top up once the oil-filter had filled after the first start!) after that we where planning to do the spark plugs but I quickly realised after removing the coil pack "rail"

IMG_2767.jpeg.c0faaa7a03ec9743c0965f53f9498b43.jpeg 

that my regular spark-plug socket was far too big, and that it turns out these Corsa's need a 16mm thin walled socket, so one of those has been ordered (its all a bit ironic because I thought to get the above rail out I needed a T40 torx bit which I did not have so purchased one for far too much in Halfords, only to then find out when actually removing the above its actually a T30 torx which I do have in my metrinch set!)

by this point daylight was pretty much gone and my body was failing so we, quickly fitted the correct 20A fuse for the reverse lights/cigarette lighter socket, then packed up shop.

the exhaust will have to wait for another day once I have recovered a bit because the last few weeks have been quite hard on me so I need a bit of R&R! although my brother does have a bit of a deadline as on the 19th he needs to go to kidderminster to pick something up, so probably on the 18th is when the exhaust will happen (and some point before that we might see if we can quickly do the spark plugs)

but all in all very pleased to have been able to give it a service and general TLC, very much feels like we have shown up at the right time for this car by getting it, and stopping its slide into further decline/neglect (although after seeing @JJ0063's I do still want to inspect that rear beam!)

 

as an aside during this the neighbour who owns the Rover SD1 came home in his modern, (while the corsa had no oil in it, so my brother and I had to push it out the way so he could park in his preferred spot) and we had a nice conversation about things, he was quite pleased to hear I still had REV and it was just away for some TLC, and I was similarly pleased to hear he still has the Rover SD1, currently garaged 

and he said if you need any help at any time to just ask! so thats very re-assuring/nice to hear! until now I was not actually sure what he himself made of REV!

Posted

Managed to get the spark plugs changed on the Corsa :)

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above are the old ones in no particular order, new spark plugs went in without any issues and we replaced some faded indicator bulbs, I also re-seated the oil filter as I realised I was supposed to clip the oil filter into the screw-cap then screw it into the housing all in one go, at this point all was tickity boo, car was running fine etc, so we packed up shop etc, and my brother went home

but just now (just before I started writing this post) my brother called me to say the engine oil pressure light had come on just as he was parking up at his home, a bit of back and forth on the phone determined that it goes out when you blip the throttle but comes back on at idle, I got him to put the oil filter back in the original way I did it (by sliding the filter onto the shaft then screwing the cap on) incase I somehow blocked something by clipping it in the cap? but that did not change anything, so I am a bit of a bit of a loss as to what could cause sudden loss of oil pressure at idle like this? (the dip stick is still reading full)

I did ask if he could see any obviously leaks or if anything was obviously pissing out oil, but nothing conclusive, maybe some drips on the floor that where not there before? but hard to say for sure atm.

it would very much appreciate it if anyone has any thoughts on the matter! (I am also in a bit of a catch 22 situation, as in true Autoshite fashion this only manifested itself once my brother was almost home, rather then say here at my place where I have all my tools, and with REV out of action I cant pop over to his place with tools!)

 

 

 

 

Posted

@LightBulbFun : Has the car got a rev counter?  It would make it easier to spot whether changing the oil, filters and plugs has fractionally reduced idling revs. If no rev counter is fitted, try very gradually increasing throttle to see if the oil light goes off at just a very slightly increased engine speed.  If it's in the range of 600-1000rpm when warm, then just adjust the throttle stop slightly to hold idle speed slightly higher than it now is.  If the light fails to go out until the revs are higher than an acceptable sounding idle, check that the oil pressure sensor which operates the light has got a good connection and the fitting is not leaking. If none of this rectifies the problem, begin head scratching then rechecking everything.  Could the oil suction pump used to drain the oil have shoved sludge towards the oil pump inlet?     

  • Like 1

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