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Posted
2 hours ago, paulplom said:

I've also upgraded the four speakers which improved the sound loads.

What speakers did you use?  I bought some upgraded 4" speakers but they're too deep to fit in the dash holes properly - the original speakers seem to be very low profile.

Posted

Just seen this piece of chod on the M1, some kind of VW but can anyone identify it?

20220518_120707.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

Aye, this one:

MVC-008F.JPG.5a26789165f2b9cf8eefa5dbafab376a.JPG

It's the second one that was bringing back erratic figures when I checked it with the ELM327 thingy. If it's a result of the first one then I'll just replace both.

Probably do both, that tape isn't going to hold up forever with the temperatures of that area and the precat is a bit more important than post cat for running. 

But those readings for the post cat sensor were definitely not right, sensor is probably easiest thing to swap first. Luckily it shouldnt be the cat at fault as the high - low waveform turned flat for the second sensor which indicates it is performing as it should. However the reading was too high (rich)

It really needs some in depth diagnostics but that would come at a cost, which would soon become uneconomical 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Eyersey1234 said:

Just seen this piece of chod on the M1, some kind of VW but can anyone identify it?

20220518_120707.jpg

 

Looks like a Brazilian Transporter with the rear parts cut off and with a caravan glued on.

153609852_Screenshot2022-05-1815_51_55.thumb.png.0d53865c59c4fc0f32dcbe0013d792b8.png

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Eyersey1234 said:

Just seen this piece of chod on the M1, some kind of VW but can anyone identify it?

20220518_120707.jpg

I think those are South African plates (and it's RHD) which means it's probably a Jurgens Autovilla. No idea what's going on with the snout though...

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Doesn't the snout contain a radiator? Suggesting some other, more exotic power-plant like Subaru or Alfa-Sud. Definitely a Jurgens though.

  • Thanks 2
Posted

Wasn't there a box you could fit on an aircooled front bumper to hold the spare wheel rather than have it inside? A tidier(?)solution than the usual exposed position.

Posted
2 hours ago, barefoot said:

Doesn't the snout contain a radiator? Suggesting some other, more exotic power-plant like Subaru or Alfa-Sud. Definitely a Jurgens though.

I think the last of the South American T2s had Polo engines, so not exactly exotic...

  • Like 2
Posted

Yay! New mot.  A couple of piddly advisories. Another year on the road for the old heap. 

Posted
13 minutes ago, puddlethumper said:

Yay! New mot.  A couple of piddly advisories. Another year on the road for the old heap. 

Fookin A

  • Thanks 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

 

Looks like a Brazilian Transporter with the rear parts cut off and with a caravan glued on.

 

Looks like it reversed very quickly into a caravan! 🤣

  • Haha 5
Posted
7 minutes ago, High Jetter said:

Looks like it reversed very quickly into a caravan! 🤣

🤣🤣🤣

Posted
1 hour ago, wuvvum said:

I think the last of the South American T2s had Polo engines, so not exactly exotic...

But the Polo engined T2 had a flusher grill in the front 

 

Now, there were also some rarer diesel ones that do have the snout 

VW-Kombi-Diesel-1985-cabine-dupla-carros-antigos-30.thumb.jpg.df91a243b7aaeed661c205bbc00c6a91.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
23 hours ago, C3C3 said:

Replacing the wings on the base spec escort, found a big o hole in the drivers floor and the back third of the drivers side sill needs doing.

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Replacement wings line up pretty much spot on other than the vertical due to some excess material. Going to save the reach arches almost in the entirety as the material is solid just all bent up, nothing a dolly and some elbow grease wont fix.

 

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The pics aren't working for me

Posted

IMAG6332.thumb.jpg.fa0c87bc2d2c6bfc183a38094e1ffe0d.jpg

Painting this one little fuel flap has been a bit tiresome.  The brush paint requires three coats to get to a thickness you can flat and polish it nicely.  I'd already got the second coat on the outside face before the whole piece reacted for some reason and I had to flat it back almost all the way to primer.  What you see here is the second coat of brush-applied paint, before its finished settling out, which is why it looks a bit wibbly.  Happily, no reaction this time.  Providing the third and final coat goes on without trouble, this can then be flatted back and polished and I should be able to get a reasonable finish on the rest of the car.

Posted
22 hours ago, OM646 said:

Maybe a Blaupunkt Madrid 200 BT?

1310613119_BP_Madrid-200-BT_Front2.thumb.jpg.edd2027e5f923648242d41f8755df912.jpg

ooh that's nice.  I am trying to source an original stereo for my XM but if I can't I might try something like that, as its much more palatable price wise than the Bremen

Posted
Joined the 107 gang. Kept seeing people rave about them on here and couldn't resist the cheapness of tax insurance etc. Anything I need to look out for? First task is a wheel bearing. Had a recent clutch which I have heard is a major weak point.
This has probably already been said, but check the rear brake lines - they have a rubber coating that stops about an inch short of the ferrule for the Flexi lines in the rear wheel arch. All the crap gets flicked up off the road and the last inch rusts like crazy, so worth redoing with cupronickel or similar imo!

Sent from my TA-1052 using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, abelw44 said:

This has probably already been said, but check the rear brake lines - they have a rubber coating that stops about an inch short of the ferrule for the Flexi lines in the rear wheel arch. All the crap gets flicked up off the road and the last inch rusts like crazy, so worth redoing with cupronickel or similar imo!

Sent from my TA-1052 using Tapatalk
 

Guess who will be fitting a new front to rear brake pipe on their 107 this weekend for that exact reason?

Posted
14 hours ago, vulgalour said:

IMAG6332.thumb.jpg.fa0c87bc2d2c6bfc183a38094e1ffe0d.jpg

Painting this one little fuel flap has been a bit tiresome.  The brush paint requires three coats to get to a thickness you can flat and polish it nicely.  I'd already got the second coat on the outside face before the whole piece reacted for some reason and I had to flat it back almost all the way to primer.  What you see here is the second coat of brush-applied paint, before its finished settling out, which is why it looks a bit wibbly.  Happily, no reaction this time.  Providing the third and final coat goes on without trouble, this can then be flatted back and polished and I should be able to get a reasonable finish on the rest of the car.

Back in the paint stripper with this one.  Third coat didn't level out properly and reacted all over.  Didn't do this coat any differently to the second coat, same flatting back, same paint, etc. so I can only assume there's something on this panel that the paint doesn't like.  Bit of a bugger.  I've never had this much trouble with brush-on paint before.  Can't afford to replace it all with the premium stuff and I've got so much of this stuff that I'm just going to persist until it behaves.

IMAG6334.thumb.jpg.a9498f02e2271626f9d14811647cc741.jpg

I'm going to do a sample on the car to see if I get a different result.  The pink I've already done didn't react, even when thinned with the same thinner.  The one known difference is that I primed this fuel flap with different paint to what's on the car and I suspect it's that which is causing the reactions.  Sometimes with paint you just have to start again.

I know, I should just spray the car.  Thing is, the neighbours are too close, I have no clean and covered space I can use to paint in, and I haven't got anywhere to keep even a small compressor.  So brush painting it is.  I've never had this much trouble with it before, the only reason I'm persisting is I know I'm capable of getting really good results with a brush and some time.

  • Like 2
Posted
32 minutes ago, vulgalour said:

Back in the paint stripper with this one.  Third coat didn't level out properly and reacted all over.  Didn't do this coat any differently to the second coat, same flatting back, same paint, etc. so I can only assume there's something on this panel that the paint doesn't like.  Bit of a bugger.  I've never had this much trouble with brush-on paint before.  Can't afford to replace it all with the premium stuff and I've got so much of this stuff that I'm just going to persist until it behaves.

IMAG6334.thumb.jpg.a9498f02e2271626f9d14811647cc741.jpg

I'm going to do a sample on the car to see if I get a different result.  The pink I've already done didn't react, even when thinned with the same thinner.  The one known difference is that I primed this fuel flap with different paint to what's on the car and I suspect it's that which is causing the reactions.  Sometimes with paint you just have to start again.

I know, I should just spray the car.  Thing is, the neighbours are too close, I have no clean and covered space I can use to paint in, and I haven't got anywhere to keep even a small compressor.  So brush painting it is.  I've never had this much trouble with it before, the only reason I'm persisting is I know I'm capable of getting really good results with a brush and some time.

This is what happened to me and is why the paint finish on 2/3rds of TPA is so awful.  Switched primer between two jobs (because the stuff I'd used before was no longer stocked locally), and it reacted horribly.  It also proved to be immune to thinners or paint stripper...and mechanically removing it from a fibreglass base proved basically impossible as it had a stronger bond to the fibreglass than the fibreglass did to itself.  It also turned out to immediately clog sanding discs/paper etc as soon as you so much as walked near to it.

Still kicking myself for not just leaving it alone as I wound up with a far worse result than I started out with.

Posted

Funny you should say that about the primer because that's exactly what happened with me when I was priming this.  Switched brand part way through as the can I was using didn't quite have enough, didn't think it would matter (even though I know you shouldn't do it, I've got away with it before) so I bet that's what it is.  At least the paint doesn't clog the paper when sanded, it actually sands pretty nicely.  Here's hoping it is just a primer issue since that's a lot easier to resolve.

Posted
On 5/18/2022 at 2:55 PM, Dyslexic Viking said:

 

Looks like a Brazilian Transporter with the rear parts cut off and with a caravan glued on.

153609852_Screenshot2022-05-1815_51_55.thumb.png.0d53865c59c4fc0f32dcbe0013d792b8.png

 

On 5/18/2022 at 12:10 PM, Eyersey1234 said:

Just seen this piece of chod on the M1, some kind of VW but can anyone identify it?

20220518_120707.jpg

Looks like an artizan barista or pizza bar owner got creative with gaffer tape and a welder. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Am absolutely not proud of this bodge, but also am kind of proud of this bodge.

IMG_20220519_174731.thumb.jpg.cdad3b750d618e31a1adaa91637d910f.jpg

Has successfully removed approximately 1 1/2" of slop from the gear lever.

The worn out bush will actually be replaced next time I'm doing an order from Autodoc (etc), just isn't worth it for the sake of a £2 bush and it was bugging the heck out of me so I improvised.

Posted

It's probably now stronger than the new Bush... 

  • Like 1
Posted

I received the remapped ECU back from Noobtune today, great considering I only sent it on Monday. So that's a hike from 150 to 220bhp. A no brainer for £100.

I went straight out for a drive as soon as I had refitted it and the car behaves in much the same way as the manual. Mash the pedal and while it does go quickly, the box just kicks down and the car overall simply makes more noise. But stir the pedal at 1/3 throttle at optimum boost which appears to be between 2.5 and 3.5k and it delivers a real kick in the back. It only changes down 1 gear at this point, making use of torque and boost. The auto seems to really thrive on the extra torque. 

I had to go home when my petrol started running out!

Very pleased indeed.

 

20220519_183911.jpg

Posted
33 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

I received the remapped ECU back from Noobtune today, great considering I only sent it on Monday. So that's a hike from 150 to 220bhp. A no brainer for £100.

I went straight out for a drive as soon as I had refitted it and the car behaves in much the same way as the manual. Mash the pedal and while it does go quickly, the box just kicks down and the car overall simply makes more noise. But stir the pedal at 1/3 throttle at optimum boost which appears to be between 2.5 and 3.5k and it delivers a real kick in the back. It only changes down 1 gear at this point, making use of torque and boost. The auto seems to really thrive on the extra torque. 

I had to go home when my petrol started running out!

Very pleased indeed.

 

20220519_183911.jpg

I had a 150 bhp to 220bhp noobtune, it definitely makes for a nice drive for very little money!

Posted

With the Broadsword fleet down to one car, a Range Rover P38, the end result is inevitable… EAS failure this evening and after quick fault finding I see the air compressor has failed in an exciting manner. Bugger! I need a small runabout.

F849D4F8-A2AE-417D-8A21-75CA0DB8308F.jpeg

B1848C83-2AE4-4436-9F33-1A138398B3EA.jpeg

1D5CAA1D-38A4-49F6-AAD5-7C704C43F550.jpeg

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