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Posted

i thought it looked gasless but then i was confused though in the last pic the welder has a gas bottle on, as long as it was solid with a clout from a BFO hammer thats all that counts to be fair

ahh i see now.. the gas bottled one is mine of 20 years old that stop feeding wire... and in pics blue one is his one he bought in 2009, tryed it once and wasnt  confident, 

Posted

Fair play Stuboy, and to be honest that Almera has done well to reach 20 years old.

i thought he was gonna scrap it..

 

Fair play Stuboy, and to be honest that Almera has done well to reach 20 years old.

and nearly 158k

Posted

All this talk of long journeys north is quite timely. I'm sitting in a stormy Bournemouth and about to head north to the People's Republic of Fife early tomorrow. In an Iveco. Wish me luck...

  • Like 1
Posted

I tipped a litre of antifreeze into the Volvo this morning, then fired it up and let it run for a bit to circulate round the system - when I refilled it after doing the water pump I just used water so although there was still antifreeze in the expansion bottle, the concentration was probably pretty low.  It was doing its weird chucking-out-water thing again - I took the cap off the rad to investigate (despite the dire warnings to never do so or nuns and kittens will DIE) and I could see the coolant flowing nicely, but whenever I would drop the revs (by pushing the choke in) or switch the engine off, it would suddenly start chucking coolant out of the top of the rad - although only for a few seconds.  I'm not sure quite what's going on - it doesn't seem to be boiling up (although the temp gauge has died, along with most of the dashboard electrics) and the new water pump is obviously doing its job - it's baffling me slightly if I'm honest, although cooling systems are not my strongest point.  I also attempted to refit the viscous fan, but there was no way it was going back on without removing the rad - which was odd as I got it off OK, but it was so long ago that I can't remember how I did it...

 

Also made a start on changing the oil on the VW van.  The (metal) undertray came off easily enough, but everything else was on stupidly tight - I even had to get the breaker bar on the oil filter (fortunately it has a hexagonal bit on the end so I was able to get a 30mm socket on it - I'd have had no fugging chance with a strap wrench), and to crack off the sump plug I had to use the trolley jack on the end of the bar - got there in the end though, and all the nice black gloopy oil drained off into a bucket (couldn't use my oil change doobery as it only holds 5 litres and the van engine holds 6.5).  Then I went off to the motor factor's to buy a new sump washer, only to be told that they don't do the washers separately any more and you have to buy the whole sump plug.  So, at the risk of once again endangering the nuns and kittens of Norfolk, I'm going to be reusing the old one, which is quite thick anyway and looks just fine.  I did pick up two gallons of cheap 15w40 mineral oil (£10.99 each) - it should take just under a gallon and a half, leaving me plenty left to top up the Movano if it starts its oil drinking habit again.  I do have 6.5 litres of 10w40 semi-synth in the shed, but I thought it would be a bit of a waste using that on a 175K-mile non-turbo VW engine (so I'm going to save it for the Rover of Doom, which is due an oil swap soon).  Filter change and refillage will take place tomorrow.

 

Took the CX out this evening, for the first time in a shamefully long time.  It appears that since it was last used the wiper has stopped self-parking.  Also the intermittent function no longer works and it doesn't automatically wipe when the screen wash is operated.  I imagine the three issues are connected, although I'm not sure yet exactly what's causing them.

Posted

Planning to resurrect a 20 year old Punto 55S next weekend, last on the road in July last year when the MOT ran out (and it was replaced by a 500). Belongs to my aunt who has had it since ex demo and it's done less than 70k from memory. She's a serial Fiat owner, this one followed a Panda and 127, she changes gear when the valves come through the bonnet so is well suited to them.

 

Will charge the battery and put in a drop of fresh petrol then try to fire it up as a starting point. Not sure if it's been left with the handbrake on or just in gear. Any other tips (other than checking it's not rotten underneath)? Topside it looks solid, provided all the moss is not structural. It's going to need to do about 30 miles to my usual MOT tester if it looks like it's saveable.

 

These aren't anywhere near as bad as some people paint them. Iirc, the '55' means its an early Mk1 and thus shouldn't have power steering, at least not of the daft electronic version? That, gearboxes and electrics seem to kill them off, plus low resale values and internet experts* putting people off. 

Posted

All this talk of long journeys north is quite timely. I'm sitting in a stormy Bournemouth and about to head north to the People's Republic of Fife early tomorrow. In an Iveco. Wish me luck...

That's all in a days work... Add a drunk Geordie in the passengers seat for the full breakdown drivers experience

  • Like 2
Posted

Planning to resurrect a 20 year old Punto 55S next weekend, last on the road in July last year when the MOT ran out (and it was replaced by a 500). Belongs to my aunt who has had it since ex demo and it's done less than 70k from memory. She's a serial Fiat owner, this one followed a Panda and 127, she changes gear when the valves come through the bonnet so is well suited to them.

 

Will charge the battery and put in a drop of fresh petrol then try to fire it up as a starting point. Not sure if it's been left with the handbrake on or just in gear. Any other tips (other than checking it's not rotten underneath)? Topside it looks solid, provided all the moss is not structural. It's going to need to do about 30 miles to my usual MOT tester if it looks like it's saveable.

These things are fab, and pretty simple. Check rear radius arm bearings.. new arms are the way to go, and not that dear , coil packs fail, again not expensive or difficult. Floorpan can go along the sill joints but they aren't rot boxes. Non interference fire engine. Any pics?
Posted

Mike has pulled the Rover into the unit to get the head off.  I can't help because Mike kindly gave me a cold so I could escape the drudgery of fixing my own car.  I think I'd rather the drudgery than the snot, phlegm, coughing and inability to regulate my own temperature.

 

he's such a caring sharing barsteward

Posted

These aren't anywhere near as bad as some people paint them. Iirc, the '55' means its an early Mk1 and thus shouldn't have power steering, at least not of the daft electronic version? That, gearboxes and electrics seem to kill them off, plus low resale values and internet experts* putting people off. 

 

It is indeed, the most basic model so no PAS or electric anything, although it might have been fitted with an aftermarket (or factory) sunroof, or maybe remote locking.  I can't remember.  Bet that bit doesn't work any more.

 

These things are fab, and pretty simple. Check rear radius arm bearings.. new arms are the way to go, and not that dear , coil packs fail, again not expensive or difficult. Floorpan can go along the sill joints but they aren't rot boxes. Non interference fire engine. Any pics?

 

Here's a 'library pic' of the same colour and trim - it looks like this now, just covered in moss.  The wheeltrims look bloody awful:

 

post-28-0-52045500-1479630394_thumb.jpg

 

Non-interference is good, I'd heard about the floorpan (and boot floor) so will jack it up for a look.  The recent MOT history looks suspiciously light on advisories (although my aunt refers to her garage as 'The Mitchell Brothers' so who knows):

 

post-28-0-61724700-1479630442_thumb.jpg

 

2011's MOT was failed on excessive play in the o/s rear radius arm bush, so let's assume that was sorted.  2010's MOT advised on corrosion on the inner and outer sill edges, but no mention since then.  I'm hoping she's kept the receipts.  I do believe it's had a head gasket (surprise surprise) at least once; these low-spec ones don't have a temperature gauge.

 

So thank you both for the info; the main reason it was laid up (apart from the fact my aunt scored 25% off a pre-reg 500 1.2 Lounge in that horrible toothpaste green - it still won't go up hills despite a dealer remap, good old EU6 regs) is that the back box needed changing and my uncle bought one but the mounting 'spike' isn't long enough to meet the rubber.  Rather than take it back and exchange it, he just left it...so I'm thinking some metal tube of appropriate diameter, Araldite and exhaust paste should do the job. 

 

If it runs and isn't terminally knackered or rusty I'll MOT it, service it and give it a good clean, then either smoke it myself (although I really should pile the miles on the Espace to amortise the repair costs...) or put it up for sale here, or my uncle (a man not famed for decision-making) might decide he prefers it to his 2002 Fiesta, in which case I'll try and sell that instead.

  • Like 3
Posted

Heater matrix failure quite common on those puntos. Not a terrible job as dash removing jobs go

Posted

Ugh.  If there's anything like that wrong, I'll offer it spares or repair!  Will find out more next Sunday.  It's done 10,000 miles in the last 10 years so probably coked up to buggery too.

Posted

Fleet update, loan of welding facilities still to be finalised so Merc is off the road. Pug v6 passed MoT on Friday, but oil leak is getting worse so may have to park it up. Upside is I can go and buy something to go to work in ! Decisions, decisions !!

Posted

 

 

and I could see the coolant flowing nicely, but whenever I would drop the revs (by pushing the choke in) or switch the engine off, it would suddenly start chucking coolant out of the top of the rad - although only for a few seconds. I'm not sure quite what's going on - it doesn't seem to be boiling up (although the temp gauge has died, along with most of the dashboard electrics) and the new water pump is obviously doing its job - it's baffling me slightly if I'm honest, although cooling systems are not my strongest point.

I have had this before and I think it was where I had airlocks. Burping the hoses may help

Posted

Billy, how the fuck did you get a MK2 Cav on your 'best price mate no more than £20' ethos ?

 

It was on FaceAche, the usual suspects helped me by making stupid offers/comments and not showing up.

  • Like 2
Posted

Ugh.  If there's anything like that wrong, I'll offer it spares or repair!  Will find out more next Sunday.  It's done 10,000 miles in the last 10 years so probably coked up to buggery too.

 

I think that could be an issue, would imagine it's probably been driven fairly gently, too. Would be reluctant to give it a good thrashing, but maybe building up it's use (and speed) over a few weeks will help. Worth taking the rocker cover off to try and assess the state of play first?

Posted

My wife's ex-rainagain Punto lit the steering wheel of doom on Monday. I was on my way to Lerwick so she dumped it in the car park and used the Volvo all week.

 

I went to pick it up yesterday and there wasn't enough puff in the battery to start it. Luckily she had abandoned it at the top of the hill so I was able to bump start it easily. As it was all iced up this involved looking around to make sure there was nobody around beforehand, then hoping that nobody appeared as I was rolling forward.

 

A quick look at the "steering wheel of doom" sticky on the Fiat forum confirmed that the most likely cause was a weak battery, so it's now got a nice new Bosch effort. I'm hoping that batteries are the one thing Bosch aren't shit at, they must be able to do something.

 

Changing the battery outside the motor factors reset the trip computer and the average mpg was over 50 by the time I got home, that 1.4 16V engine really is a peach.

  • Like 2
Posted

Wuv - I very rarely replace sump plug washers, only if they've been horribly crushed by some twattish gorilla at some point. Sometimes I anneal them (get them nice and hot) but other times, I just simply reuse them. Leaky sumps don't seem to be a problem for me.

Posted

... and to crack off the sump plug I had to use the trolley jack on the end of the bar -

I share your pain. The car that filter I posted was on needed a blowtorch and an impact wrench to get the sump plug off. It still needs several things to make it 100% but it achieved 53 mpg on a run shortly after so some things must be right.

  • Like 1
Posted

Left Bournemouth at 7.20 this morning, one stop for fuel, one for food and one to put the escaping windscreen rubber seal back in. Home at just after half 3 after dropping my colleague in Polmont. Not bad for a shonky old Iveco Daily.

Posted

Following an HGV (51mph) and a tail of 4 cars on the A69 earlier.

 

How am I getting past this slow lot in my PugVan?? :(

 

HGV turns off! YaY.. Ffinn cars now 51mph!! Jeazzuss :( :(

 

 

lol

 

TS

Posted

Thank you to everyone on here and other forums that suggested Woolies for seals.  The Renault needs a particular extruded foam 'arrowhead' type door seal and Woolies supply an almost exact copy of it.  Â£70ish later I've got enough ordered to redo all four doors, seems a bit ludicrous when you remember the car only cost £80 to buy!  Having sat in the Renault in the rain (what an exciting life I lead) I could see how the door seals work and why they're failing.  The arrowhead shape means that the seal becomes a little gutter when the door is shut, channeling the water from the roof into the seal and then down out through the panel gaps.  Unfortunately, the seals on the Renault are in such poor condition that the rain comes into the seal gap and just pours straight through into the car because the long stalk of the seal doesn't actually meet the door hole in a lot of places and on a couple of corners the seal has gone completely flat.  Roof gutters wouldn't cure this problem as the rain would just end up being driven through the gaps when driving.

 

Getting antsy about the engine too.  I want to know what is/isn't wrong with it and get it repaired and in the car.  Actually playing about with the Renault at home as really made me want to drive it again.

Posted

So after fixing the tail lights on the bike, they stopped working after being sat outside in the rain at work for 8 hours. The ride home on Friday was so shitty I was soaked through to the boxers after ten minutes, couldn't see more than a few feet in front of me and anything more than about 4k rpm had the rear breaking traction.

So today I gave it a mega clean, took the battery out and left it on the trickle charger and wrapped the bike up. See you again in spring :(

 

Citroen news - I have 3 hydraulic pumps now, the latest one is an unknown off a breaker so I'll fire it on the car and see what it does.

Question - will I need to renew the rubber seals on the pipes going into the pump?

 

Done some citrobatics today just for fun. Turned the engine off with the car in the normal height setting (middle). After a few seconds it literally dropped to its lowest which was odd, is this normal? Can see why you shouldn't chance going under without stands etc, it went from normal height to slammed in about a second

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

My xantia does that, which is dead spheres somewhere. Yours may be a sinker though, I'm not sure

Posted

I actually splurted beer toward the TV... as I read on BBC news feed last night...

Prince William wants his kids to have 'simple aspirations' >> ffs the only kids in UK who can be 'simple' but manage a whole life without any ffinn 'aspiration'!!!

... referring to 'people living with an enormous amount of stuff they dont necessarily need' >> all of Cornwall might choke a horse, but not his dad obviously!..?

Scotty.. "Beam Me Fuc##ing UP!" ;)


TS

  • Like 3
Posted

I welded seat mounts to the fishnet recaro's I bought for the cortina. I put the cortina seat base mounts on it today for the first time and spent an hour trying to make the rod that goes between the runners operate both runners when you pull the level. Could I fuck get it  to work. I thought I had it it then realised when I pulled the lever I could only move one of the runners. The runners must be the same width apart as they where in the old car as I can still bolt it into the floor!  

This is why it takes me years to fix cars.

  • Like 2
Posted

It's only supposed to unlock 1 side....

Make sure the 2 runners match when you bolt the seat in.ie all the way back or forward

Then they will both lock ok when you adjust it

Posted

it definitely unlocks both sides.  Unfortunately I can only get it to unlock one of those sides at any one time.

Posted

Spent a pleasant few hours on Saturday and Sunday removing bits from my scrapper PT Cruiser (i.e the worst car in the world) to go on my roadgoing example

 

15036599_10157827049155436_1835994866907

 

Managed to break my 3/8 inch ratchet trying to remove the locking wheel nuts from this scrapper using a deep 17mm socket and a scaffold tube like a complete twat (in my defence only a thin walled 17mm deep socket would fit and mine all come in 3/8 flavour) as its a Halfords pro item they've agreed to replace it for free, result! Obviously I told them I was using it to repair a puncture on my 6 yr olds bike and it "just broke" but still a result. 

 

15055788_10157833650445436_4025558848366

 

15178229_10157833650500436_1900536330387

 

The passenger wing on mine had loads of rot around the front end for some reason and had major bubbling all round the radius of the arch lip and looked totally shite. The new wing has zero rot and just a slight dint that's barely detectable. The spares car had sat under a tree for 18 months and rotting leaf debris has somehow stuck itslef to the panel. A bucket of hot water and wash N wax has shifted most of it, but I recon it will need a good polish to totally fix.

 

15179103_10157833633895436_9021691907905

 

 

 

I've also got the front bumper to go on too, but I'll save that fun for another day. The new bumper is crack free but one of the previous owners relocated the number plate to one side, meaning I've got two screw holes to repair/ignore, FFS. 

 

Is it just me that derives great pleasure from repairing old motors with used parts? Saving stuff from the scrapheap and giving them a new lease of life is very satisfying

Posted

Moved more stuff to the new gaff. Proper moving day delayed so may not be in this year.

 

106 still dead and no parts sold unless I want to pull the rear beam and rack.

 

Jumbuck still not sold.

 

Ugh.

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