Project Dollywobbler's Invacar - Ongoing

[SiC]

Do these have the damper pots things that the SU carbs have?

 

If the condenser has failed/failing it could have buggered the points up.

[dollywobbler]

No damper pot. I'm also out of petrol now, apart from what's in the tank. Filter is full though, so it's definitely getting that far at least.

[Zelandeth]

Kinked/internally clogged fuel hose?

[dollywobbler]

Possible, though I've replaced nearly all of the fuel line. Certainly, when I disconnected the main fuel pipe at the engine end the other day, there was no shortage of supply. 

[barrett]

I've lost track of what you have already done, but have you had the pump off and apart for a proper clean? I assume its a mechanical rather than electric pump on these? last time I was battling with recomissioning a long-idle car I had the same sort of symptoms despite cleaning the carb, new fuel lines etc until we eventually took the top off the fuel pump and this lot was inside...

There was just enough give to squeeze a dribble of fuel through, but nowhere near enough to have it running properly.

[Guest Hooli]

*Awaits someone naming the car from that rocker cover, looks Triumphish to me*

[barrett]

It's a Peugeot 202

[dollywobbler]

I've had the pump off, and establishing that it's pumping nicely. 

 

Play has ceased for today. Decided it was worth spending some time investigating the non-charging, as it's a pain having to hook up jump leads all the time. Downside of a li-ion battery is standard battery chargers don't work. 

 

Didn't take long to find the problem. I removed the voltage regulator, and discovered some poor wiring, and a blown in-line 50 amp fuse (yes, 50!). Here's a crap picture of it.

 

The wiring fell apart, so that needs sorting out. I need another in-line fuse holder, some suitable wiring (I guess my spare 17amp wire won't be sufficient), a 50 amp fuse and some connectors. At least I know why it isn't charging though!

 

Calling a big fat CAN'T BE ARSED on any more work today. Have a busy couple of work days, then a day for tinkering, then I'm away from Thursday and into the weekend, so progress is going to be slowing right down.

[richardmorris]

I was just about to offer to post you a spare in line holder then realised it was 50amp not the 5amp I have !

[dollywobbler]

50 amps does seem a bit much. The manual reckons a maximum from the Dynastart of 20A, so a 30A should do. However, the nature of the in-line fuse, which very much looks like an afterthought, suggests there wasn't actually anything when it was brand new.

 

That said, the manual says 'the charge line should have a 12 amp fuse' so now I'm really confused. Mind you, the wiring diagram shows that the charge line is yellow, and the one that has the fuse on it is red, so who knows?

[Sigmund Fraud]

Eventually got her to run, but as soon as I open the throttle, there's a ton of backfiring through the carb. With the fuel system looking increasingly exonerated, my next thought is to try another condenser. It has a brand new one fitted, but that means nowt these days.

 

Don't exonerate the carb yet... If it's a Solex-oid, the accelerator pump diaphragm could well be the culprit !

[SiC]

50 amps does seem a bit much. The manual reckons a maximum from the Dynastart of 20A, so a 30A should do. However, the nature of the in-line fuse, which very much looks like an afterthought, suggests there wasn't actually anything when it was brand new.

 

That said, the manual says 'the charge line should have a 12 amp fuse' so now I'm really confused. Mind you, the wiring diagram shows that the charge line is yellow, and the one that has the fuse on it is red, so who knows?

Blade fuse or glass fuse? Blade is rated at its blow current. Glass is rated as it's continuous current.

[DeeJay]

Looking at your wiring it might be worthwhile making a new loom.

(With a few extra earth wires).

[dollywobbler]

Blade fuse or glass fuse? Blade is rated at its blow current. Glass is rated as it's continuous current.

 

Glass. With scorch marks...

[dollywobbler]

Looking at your wiring it might be worthwhile making a new loom.

(With a few extra earth wires).

 

Bit OTT I think. There's one short problem area of wiring. Everything else is now working fine. 

[SiC]

If it was my car, I'd be tempted to rip out all the wiring and either make or a buy a new loom. Especially if you intend to keep it for a long time.

 

At the very least (as there isn't too much cabling) I'd take out the loom for a complete inspection.

[dollywobbler]

Sod that! You'll be saying you'd paint it next.

[Zelandeth]

The Dynastart is rated 230W output if the spec sheet I read was correct - so let's do some math.

 

Power = Volts * Amps, therefore Amps = Power / Volts.  230W / 12V = 19.2A.  That would be what's actually coming out the Dynastart at full output though rather than necessarily what would be getting dumped into the charging circuit itself...

[plasticvandan]

My mz originally had a mechanical voltage regulator with an internal shut off for over charging,I've replaced it with a solid state Volvo item,and the recommendation was to connect the two shut off wires(not used on the leccy one) through a 15a fuse.Its a 180w generator which I suspect is much higher than the dynastart. I would seriously focus on freeing the dizzy,if you have put new points in the timing will have changed.I fail to see how fuelling issues will cause banging and flames,all it will do is idle oddly or not rev,spartks happening at the wrong time however..

[dollywobbler]

A lean mixture can cause these symptoms. Earlier, I held the revs at 2000, shut the choke off and it backfired spectacularly through the carb and died. When it revs, it struggles, as if not getting enough fuel.

 

I did discover that the pump does have a sieve in it, but I can't get the lid off the pump - it doesn't want to budge. All that did was leak petrol through the bolt hole and remind me of the downside of having a garage as part of the house. My office now stinks of petrol.

[twosmoke300]

Does sound like the accelerator pump isn't working

[beko1987]

the downside of having a garage

Does not compute...

[dollywobbler]

Does sound like the accelerator pump isn't working

 

It is. I can see it squirt fuel in when the throttle is operating. The jet for that has had a blast out too.

 

To get the engine to start requires an extremely cunning mix of choke and throttle. That's wrong for a start, as it should just require choke.

 

Oh well. I've got plenty of time to think about it, as a high workload means I won't have much tinkering time for a while. In fact, I'm coming down your way later in the month Mr Twosmoke!

[twosmoke300]

Be good to see you again . Feel free to pop in for a social . Which member of the fleet will you be in ?

[richardmorris]

The Dynastart is rated 230W output if the spec sheet I read was correct - so let's do some math.

 

Power = Volts * Amps, therefore Amps = Power / Volts.  230W / 12V = 19.2A.  That would be what's actually coming out the Dynastart at full output though rather than necessarily what would be getting dumped into the charging circuit itself...

30a should be more than enough. I’d have thought 50 would run the risk of setting some wiring alight.

[dollywobbler]

Be good to see you again . Feel free to pop in for a social . Which member of the fleet will you be in ?

 

I have absolutely no idea! Probably the Lexus, because WAFT. Unless you fancy trying to cure the oil leak on the Honda? Problem is, there's a cam cover nut that's spinning, so not providing sufficient clamping force, and I can't remove it either.

[twosmoke300]

I'm sure I could get it out and helicoil it . If you order the new stud / nut/ gasket set etc then I could do that no problem

[dollywobbler]

Gasket set is pretty new, and I didn't use any sealant (which could be another reason it's a bit leaky). Should be ok to reuse hopefully. I'll see if I can find the other bits. I did wonder about drilling through and using a nut and bolt, but haven't looked too closely at whether I can get away with that.

[twosmoke300]

You have to put sealer on the corners where the gasket goes over the cams

[dollywobbler]

Oops. That didn't help then. Sadly, as I can't get the cam cover off, I've been unable to rectify this mistake. I'd say it's leaked through about 4 litres of oil in 8000 miles. Front subframe shouldn't rot...