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Domes shonky autos - Grand Cherokee departs, Kangoo titivation and 911 dug out.


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Posted

Looks good, I like the rear seats dogging spotlights. ?

  • Haha 2
Posted

Had a shot of @dome's Accord today. Pleasantly surprised!

 

An hardly tell it's running, it goes well and all the controls seem precise. Not a bad tub at all;)

  • Like 3
Posted

I gave this thing a proper wash during the week. It comes up well but there's a few rust bubbles. The paintwork actually beads not too bad, it must've been waxed before it was put in the garage.

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So far everything works! I replaced the sunroof fuse and the fuse warning light on the dash went out. It definitely wants to live again ?

First order of business-the brakes. The rear pistons were seized and it's still on its original steel lines. The plan is to replace the lot.

I started at the master cylinder/abs unit end. 3 lines come out of here, one to each front wheel and one to the rear. 

I'd made these little sections of closed line up previously to block the system of the cougar when changing lines.

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They were employed again to stop the system draining itself while it's in bits.

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Now I could crack on with removing the old lines. Amazingly only one union gave me trouble-the hacksaw was employed for this. Even the torx bolts on the clamps for the lines came undone?

I stripped off the discs and pads at both ends. Wheel bearings seem fine and the handbrake mechanisms look good. 

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New pads and discs will be ordered up of course.

I tried to get some grease onto the ujs on the rear driveshaft but struggled, I'll come back to this before it hits the road though. Bonus rusty exhaust in this pic. It's a 1991 registered car with cats. An earlier cat free system may get ordered up for it just because I can. 

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And here, with only a couple of cuts other than the ones Jaguar intended, is the full hard lines from the car. There was a fair bit of corrosion on some but I've definitely taxed worse...

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Calipers off and the plan was to strip them down with a view to returning them myself. There was nothing to lose, if it needs calipers it'll get them.

I found part of the aforementioned grease gun which had the same threads as the union on the calipers and also the nozzle on my compressor. Get in!

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Pistons out and inspected. Not bad but I might as well replace them while I'm here. I've reassembled them for the moment, partly to get practice pressing pistons in and partly so I can give them a wire brush and a paint.

I managed to get the bleed nipples out too with one shearing. It left enough that I could get mole grips onto so with some careful application not heat it came out.

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Next up is ordering parts and a brake pipe flaring tool. Any recommendations for a tool?

 

Posted
4 minutes ago, SiC said:

I thought these had inboard brakes?

I think that was the XJ-S, and only at the back?

Posted

Aye, series 3 and early XJS had them inboard, these have them in the right place.

Posted
58 minutes ago, dome said:

Next up is ordering parts and a brake pipe flaring tool. Any recommendations for a tool?

 

I think the general consensus is that the cheap ones a la Toolstation, eBay etc are absolutely useless and best avoided as they mark the lines very badly and are hard to get a good double flare from. 

Been researching these myself to repair my oil cooler lines, so keen to see if there's a reasonably priced set out there that isn't total mince.

Cracking Jag btw, the colour is lovely. Great work getting it to live on.

I think someone was looking out for you taking those lines off, I would've been clenching strongly expecting the worst!

Posted

This type of flaring tool is awesome. Available from ebay in either DIN or SAE flavour. 

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Not sure what you'll need for the Jag, probably DIN but don't quote me on it. Generally speaking everything uses M10 fine unions with a DIN flare with the exception of old classics and yank stuff that use SAE flares with imperial unions. All brake line is the same as give or take a few thou 3/16" is 4.75mm. @Broadsword being a Jag guru might be able to answer that better than I can.

The BIG advantage of the above type of tool is that it can flare steel pipes and is compact enough to do pipes in situ on the car. That means splicing in a repair section when the line is solid bar one small section of rot is easily done. This means you can avoid replacing pipes that are a nightmare to get to. Witness my old CRV, the last 2" all of the lines going to the compensator on the bottom chassis rail were rotted out but the rest of the lines were solid with no corrosion. Several of those ran up between the steering rack and the bulkhead and would have been impossible to replace in their original locations. The resulting repair did look a bit like an art installation but being able to splice a line using a female-female joiner saved that car from being recycled prematurely.

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Posted
16 minutes ago, blackboilersuit said:

This type of flaring tool is awesome. Available from ebay in either DIN or SAE flavour. 

1018312586_s-l500(2).jpg.87f7afdb60e18a20df971e58c8bec29d.jpg

Not sure what you'll need for the Jag, probably DIN but don't quote me on it. Generally speaking everything uses M10 fine unions with a DIN flare with the exception of old classics and yank stuff that use SAE flares with imperial unions. All brake line is the same as give or take a few thou 3/16" is 4.75mm. @Broadsword being a Jag guru might be able to answer that better than I can.

The BIG advantage of the above type of tool is that it can flare steel pipes and is compact enough to do pipes in situ on the car. That means splicing in a repair section when the line is solid bar one small section of rot is easily done. This means you can avoid replacing pipes that are a nightmare to get to. Witness my old CRV, the last 2" all of the lines going to the compensator on the bottom chassis rail were rotted out but the rest of the lines were solid with no corrosion. Several of those ran up between the steering rack and the bulkhead and would have been impossible to replace in their original locations. The resulting repair did look a bit like an art installation but being able to splice a line using a female-female joiner saved that car from being recycled prematurely.

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Great, thanks! Was looking at those but do they only do one type of flare? I think I'll need the female version of that flare for some of the pipes. I'll check the lines I've took off though, possibly not.

Posted

Yes they only do one type of flare per tool. You get a tool that does DIN flares and another different tool that does SAE flares.

I did see you have some female nuts so I assume they are something like an AN fitting. I'm not sure what the official tool is for them but when I had them on my old MK1 Disco I had an el-cheapo flaring tool like this one

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10PC-METRIC-COPPER-PIPE-BRAKE-FLARING-TOOL-KIT-SET-MECHANIC-PLUMBING/271140163465?epid=9018939688&hash=item3f21368f89:g:6NQAAOSwW15fSPfO

I just used the pointy end of the press without one of the dies in it to flare out the end of the pipe. I'm sure it's not the official method but it did seem to work ok and no nuns or kittens came to any harm!

I did find this list online that explains some of the various types of flares.

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  • Like 2
Posted
5 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

It will do both types.  You screw the punch in one way to produce a male flare, then reverse it and go in again to produce a female flare.

Wrong I'm afraid.

The SAE flaring tool uses one end to produce a bubble flare and then you use the second end to turn the bubble flare into a double flare if that's what you want.

The DIN tool produces DIN flares only. A DIN flare and an SAE bubble flare are almost identical to look at so that's where the confusion often comes in.

Posted
1 minute ago, blackboilersuit said:

Wrong I'm afraid.

We are talking cross purposes here I think,   I was not suggesting that the same tool would produce SAE and DIN flares.  I'll delete my post.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

We are talking cross purposes here I think,   I was not suggesting that the same tool would produce SAE and DIN flares.  I'll delete my post.

Apologies @Mr PastryI picked you up wrongly, entirely my fault. 

You describing the double flare as a female has perhaps clarified it in my mind. If a car has a mix of male and female flares, particularly an old car of British origin then it would seem very likely that all the flares are SAE with the males being a bubble flare and the females being a double flare.

 

Posted

That female flare is definitely an SAE double so the whole car will be SAE flares. That tool is the one you want. You're welcome to borrow mine if you want as my fleet is not in need of any lines at present. Drop me a PM if you do.

  • Thanks 2
Posted
4 hours ago, blackboilersuit said:

That female flare is definitely an SAE double so the whole car will be SAE flares. That tool is the one you want. You're welcome to borrow mine if you want as my fleet is not in need of any lines at present. Drop me a PM if you do.

It looks like the male flared is DIN so I'll need two tools! Fuxxake

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Posted
19 minutes ago, jonathan_dyane said:

Why? I’ve used one and they’re fine.

Because I'm a fanny and have spent longer reading about fecking brake tools than it would take to do the fecking job ?

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
2 hours ago, dome said:

It looks like the male flared is DIN so I'll need two tools! Fuxxake

A SAE bubble flare looks almost like a DIN once it's been used because the tip gets squashed down when the fitting is tightened. I'd doubt even Jag would mix SAE and DIN flares on the same car. 

Posted

Ok, shopping time. I've ordered up the following, mostly from David Manners where available.

Brake pipe flaring tool. 
Discs and pads all round
Flexis all round
Caliper pistons and seal kits all round.
Distributor cap
Rotor arm
Leads
Air Filter
Gearbox filter and gasket
Fan belt
4 new tyres-225/60 15 as the original 225 65 15 are no longer available. I'm keeping it on the steels-trims FTW!

I have a new thermostat I'll fit. 

I'll pick up brake pipe locally
I'd like to fit a radiator cap for peace of mind but David Manners is out of stock at the minute.
I'll change the diff oil too.

Anything I'm missing out?
 

  • Like 3
Posted
18 hours ago, Tickman said:

I've one of them and as long as you take your time it is fine.

Just practice first.

You are correct on this. I borrowed one from you previously and it was fine.

I'm easily led by people on the internet, as most of this thread will attest to. "You should buy one of these Dome" 

Posted

An order was placed with David Manners and pretty quickly my dining room table was full...

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Tonight I decided to clean up the brakes before rebuilding the calipers. I've left the old seals, pistons and gubbins in for painting.

Before

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After

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I had silver high temp paint so did the calipers with that. Not sure I like them like that but no-one will see them behind the trims anyway.

I also dropped the transmission fluid and changed the filter. The sump was a bit tatty so I gave it a quick clean up with the wire wheel and a lick of black paint.

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And back on and topped up. Note the lovely* fuel lines. They're going, needless to say

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Posted
12 minutes ago, dome said:

An order was placed with David Manners and pretty quickly my dining room table was full...

and your wallet was empty ?.

Seriously good job here, miss my XJ40, but there's times when you know it's destined to be a fridge.

Posted
47 minutes ago, busmansholiday said:

and your wallet was empty ?.

Seriously good job here, miss my XJ40, but there's times when you know it's destined to be a fridge.

Nah, prices were pretty decent to be fair. And getting everything from one place makes a difference. Hopefully this one won't be a fridge for a while ?

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