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Mr Pastry

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  1. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175033711154? This shows the bolt locations, and it appears that the window surround is not part of the wing panel, so presumably there is a gasket or rubber moulding below the window, where the wing fits against it. It's an unusual design. BUT - rule number one - if it ain't broke, don't fix it. The wing is not intended to be removed once fitted, and you will be making trouble for yourself if you do so. Especially if, as you say, it has been repaired badly. For instance, what are you going to do if some of those bolts shear off? Unless it absolutely has to come off, leave it well alone.
  2. It is an Austin chassis with Ford axles. Or the front axle may be Austin with Ford spindles.
  3. A one size fits all solution is exactly what your video is suggesting though. Drilling holes in the floor works very well if you drill them in the right place. If the car is so valuable that you don't want to do that, why don't you rent a garage for the winter and look after it properly?
  4. Replace the seals and drill some drain holes in the floor.
  5. If your location allows it, build a simple car port. It works better than you might expect. Keeps the rain off, allows plenty of ventilation, the ground stays dry, and you can work under it. As long as the location isn't too exposed it can be quite lightly built. Mine is made from standard fence posts and boards, with plastic roofing sheets, took a couple of days to build and I am glad I did it. I'll try and get some pics if it stops raining.
  6. Quite possibly, I don't know but check anyway. Is there a diagram available?
  7. Without knowing the actual circuits, this is suggesting that the headlamp flash is fed separately from the main/dip relay - check the fuses first.
  8. Girling 64068035, originally Ford 100E brake and clutch among others. Not the same as Herald/ Spitfire as these have an angled mounting, although they can be made to work.
  9. As with some other makes immediately post-war, it was a continuation of an old model - what they would have built in 1940 but for the war.
  10. @LightBulbFunIf you feel it is important, this perhaps a matter for the FBHVC to look into as they will have more clout with DVLA than anyone else. I think we fuss too much about registration marks in this country - in many parts of the world you wouldn't have a choice of mark and would not be able to research anything as we can here. Even here, where the old card indexes exist, they often don't tell you anything very useful. I do feel that you are wasting your valuable time, and not inconsiderable talents, on this stuff. Could I respectfully suggest that you could look into liberating certain manufacturing drawings, so that I can see some material specs which will help me in making certain replacement parts safely?
  11. I think that would be a vast improvement, and it even looks right! The gearing is a good point. Most cars of that sort are revving their nuts off in top to keep up with modern traffic which isn't the best thing for an old long stroke engine, so an overdrive is a nice modification where possible.
  12. I was going to suggest a Y type MG, and they would be ideal for pottering around locally and certainly have the character, not sure about interior space for a 6ft plus driver though. I think the engine is a dreadful thing though, and I speak from experience. I wouldn't bother with an Austin 7 or anything that size unless you are a masochist.
  13. Something from the 1950s will probably be more practical than something from the 30s or 40s, and with full-width bodywork will have more interior space and legroom if that is an issue. What about an MG Z Magnette, or the equivalent Wolseley 15/50? Plenty of style and character, solidly made, no structural woodwork, nice enough to drive, and simple mechanicals with a boring but sensible B series engine which can be power tuned if you wish. Oh, and they rust. What's not to like?
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