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Dollywobbler's GR-8 Rover - getting better all the time


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Posted

If it's the Honda donk the bottom pulley can be fucking tight. It's a normal thread and not lh or Owt. Sometimes a trip to a commercial garage with a 3/4 impact gun is reqd. Then nip it up with your gun and drive home. Another thing is to tip ex the timing pulleys before you take the belt off cos Honda use the same cam pulley for a few models and the marks are a bit confusing. And the engine runs anti clockwise but I'm guessing you knew that

Posted

The one concern I have is doing the pulley bolt back up to a sufficent tightness! Would a blast with my rattle gun be sufficient? I've only got a 3/8" torque wrench and it doesn't go up very high. It's something ridiculous like 119lb/ft. 

Posted

If anyone wants a spare ignition module for a 216/416 I'm sure I have a spare somewhere, gratis.

Posted

Well, it'd be foolish not to take up such a kind offer. If you find it, let me know and I'll bung my address over to you. Ta muchly.

Posted

A half inch proper rattle gun will be fine. They self tighten anyway

  • Like 1
Posted

The one concern I have is doing the pulley bolt back up to a sufficent tightness! Would a blast with my rattle gun be sufficient? I've only got a 3/8" torque wrench and it doesn't go up very high. It's something ridiculous like 119lb/ft. 

 

You can pick up a 1/2", beam-type wrench for £15. I wouldn't use it to torque down a Lamborghini Urraco head, but it should be accurate enough for a pulley bolt.

Posted

I'm not sure where the 'lame dog' comes from...

 

Old Rover...?

 

;)

Posted

keep the hamster stickerage and tell people you are richard hammonds back up crew :-D

 

my bro-in-law took on a 216 that had been taxi'd with a bosted belt- chucked a new on on and hey presto no bent vavles!

Posted

It's much more fun to use a scaffold bar and then get someone to start the engine. Much more terrifying too (applied this technique on a BX). WCPGW?

 

This worked on your last BX too but didn't somebody say that these Honda engines rotate the other way round?  Unless it's a L/H thread then that's what could go wrong.

Posted

I've just realised that I have never owned a Rover.

How can this be?

That looks pretty good now dude.

 

I would like to clamber onto a soap box to orate thusly: I buy shit cars for low amounts of money that end up costing more money than a car that cost more money than but was also better than the other car in the first place too.

 

You are not alone DW.

 

Think I might give it up though.

Take up summat cheaper. Like heroin or throwing fistfuls off balled up twenty pound notes into the sea. Or a fire. Or a pond.

Posted

... a 216  with a bosted belt- chucked a new on on and hey presto no bent valves!

 

Are they non-interference then?

Posted

For £300 if starts, goes & stops & doesn't smell like a tramp's died in it then I really can't see the problem tbh. It's a whole functioning car for the price of a set of tyres on a Mondeo, sounds like WIN to me.

Posted

Rovers are driven by winners. 

 

That one looks pretty good, apart from the possible Richard Gere connotations of the writing on the doors.

Posted

This worked on your last BX too but didn't somebody say that these Honda engines rotate the other way round?  Unless it's a L/H thread then that's what could go wrong.

Does this mean the bluey has had a cam belt?

 

Nice purchase BTW. I had a nightfire Sli for a bit but soon fell out with the switchgear (didn't have the right feel to it - a problem I have with most Japanese cars. I am weird) good tool if hopelessly undergerared. Not horrendously thirsty but not the best, other than that.....

Posted

Given that "La cinq-cent dix" thread of Ratdat has fewer pages yet has been on here significantly longer should be something for you to be proud of, DW - any amateur (let alone pro  :mrgreen:) car journo/blogger should be pleased that a story about buying a regular Rover 216 should threaten to generate 20 pages of forum discussion.

 

The one concern I have is doing the pulley bolt back up to a sufficent tightness! Would a blast with my rattle gun be sufficient? I've only got a 3/8" torque wrench and it doesn't go up very high. It's something ridiculous like 119lb/ft. 

 

I thought you were a 2cv owner who did things to his car - have you ever hit a kpin out or removed a brake drum? I'm sure you have some feel for torque, or a torque wrench?

 

 

This worked on your last BX too but didn't somebody say that these Honda engines rotate the other way round?  Unless it's a L/H thread then that's what could go wrong.

 

I thought an Onda would go either way.

Posted

Tis very difficult to feel for torque on a bottom pulley cos if you lock it up in gear it's springing through the clutch and driveline. Mark the postition with a white paint pen and do it up to where it was before if your worried about it.

Posted

If the engine turns the other way, surely you just put the scaffold bar the other way? To add to the fun, the engine is the wrong way around too. Gearbox on the driver's side. 

 

To be fair to RatDat, there was less pre-amble! There was a lot of discussion here before I bought anything at all. There will be MASSIVELY less talent on display here too. 

 

FB - Bluey has had a cambelt, but not by my hands. IIRC, Rich changed it last summer. Don't forget I've owned many BXs!

Posted

Are they non-interference then?

 

Internet suggests no, but also includes several instances of D16s surviving belt failure. Slightly reassuring perhaps! I'd rather get it done though.

Posted

If the engine turns the other way, surely you just put the scaffold bar the other way? To add to the fun, the engine is the wrong way around too. Gearbox on the driver's side. 

 

To be fair to RatDat, there was less pre-amble! There was a lot of discussion here before I bought anything at all. There will be MASSIVELY less talent on display here too. 

 

FB - Bluey has had a cambelt, but not by my hands. IIRC, Rich changed it last summer. Don't forget I've owned many BXs!

 

 

From the cambelt end an XUD spins clockwise, so if you put a socket on the nut and wedge the bar against the subframe to keep the nut from spinning when you hit the starter the nut will turn anticlockwise in relation to the crank.  A nut turned anticlockwise will loosen.

 

If this Honda engine spins anticlockwise then the same trick will tighten the nut up to many many lb/ft before breaking something.

 

I did the belt and water pump on FPB7's BX this time last year as I thought the pump was leaking,  it was already in many bit's when I found the knackered bottom hose so just changed the lot. 

Posted

That's nice, but I really am committed to getting one in Nightfire Red. Even though it was ropey, the diesel I drove convinced me of its merits - first L-Series motor I've ever driven. So, that's it. I'll eventually want a Nightfire Red diesel. Next challenge is to decide if I care what spec it is - folding rear seat and other toys on posh ones.

 

I'm going to enjoy the 416 for a bit though. The more I drive it, the more I like it. Booked in for some wheel balancing/cat heat shield bodgery on Monday. My only real complaint is that it seems to tramline a bit at times. If I was keeping it, I'd certainly ditch the alloys and go back to the steelies it should be wearing.

Posted

If the engine turns the other way, surely you just put the scaffold bar the other way? To add to the fun, the engine is the wrong way around too. Gearbox on the driver's side. 

 

To be fair to RatDat, there was less pre-amble! There was a lot of discussion here before I bought anything at all. There will be MASSIVELY less talent on display here too. 

 

FB - Bluey has had a cambelt, but not by my hands. IIRC, Rich changed it last summer. Don't forget I've owned many BXs!

 

Actually for a fwd vehicle the transaxle should be in front of the driver...so it's in the right way.

 

As is the whole vehicle.

 

:-)

Posted

The cat heat shield bodge on mine took two mintues, an inch long M6 bolt, a nut and a BFO washer.

Silent since (but for the cat itself starting to shit itself).

Posted

The shield on mine has snapped both its front mountings. I was thinking that a big hose clip might do the job. 

 

I just gave the interior a damned good hoovering, mainly because the young banger rally lads had thought it amusing to stick beer bottles to one of the rear side windows. A couple of these green bottles had accidentally fallen and smashed. Perhaps not such a good idea.

Posted

That's nice, but I really am committed to getting one in Nightfire Red. Even though it was ropey, the diesel I drove convinced me of its merits - first L-Series motor I've ever driven. So, that's it. I'll eventually want a Nightfire Red diesel. Next challenge is to decide if I care what spec it is - folding rear seat and other toys on posh ones.

 

I'm going to enjoy the 416 for a bit though. The more I drive it, the more I like it. Booked in for some wheel balancing/cat heat shield bodgery on Monday. My only real complaint is that it seems to tramline a bit at times. If I was keeping it, I'd certainly ditch the alloys and go back to the steelies it should be wearing.

 

Steels make nae fecking difference regarding the tram lining, at least not on my 216 SLi with the Honda D16 donk, it also makes no difference with the torque steer you get if you boot it coming out of a corner.

 

Keep the alloys they look good on it, the only thing that could improve it looks wise would be the 7 spoke SEi alloys

 

IMG420_1.jpg

 

Rover used to make some really nice alloy wheels, but these are definitely the best of them

Posted

I hate alloy wheels though. The ones on the Sirion were nice, but an absolute ballache to clean. Which is why I never did. You are right though. The wheel designs were rather spiffing.

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