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Reginald Nutsack's K-series Kapers - ROVER 623 MOT GUFF


Mr_Bo11ox

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I did it with an impact gun, and had no luck.

 

Take the starter motor off, and jam a pair of pliers between the gearbox housing and the flywheel, this has worked for me several times in the past. ;)

Tie a piece of string on the end of the pliers so they don't fall into the gearbox, this has happened to me several times in the past. :'(

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Managed to get in touch with the old boy this week. Asked him about the locking wheelnut key. "oh i don't have that, they never gave it back when i got the tyres fitted" he casually mentioned. He obviously didnt expect to need to take a wheel off ever agin. On the upside he did say he had a spare ignition/door key, which his lmore on the ball-sounding wife agreed to post up to me.

 

So last time i was struggling to get the crank pulley nut undone. I figured that a good way to undo it would be to stick it in gear with the front wheel jammed. I'd tried to do that once already but just ended up spinning the opposing front wheel (I was parked on a loose surface like a dick) So this time i decided to take the other front wheel off and jam both wheels by the old 'Screwdriver in the vented disc' hatchet job. To do that i had to get another locking wheelnut out.

 

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Burned the paint on the wheel a bit, brilliant innit. Got to do this on both back wheels as well. Anyway I got both wheels off, jammed the brake discs and after a mega swear fest managed to pop the crank pulley nut!!!

 

To my amazement this treatment bent BOTH countersunk screws which hold the discs to the hub... these are an M10!! ABUSE.

 

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With the pulley undone I could take the belt off and start getting ready to lift the head off. Nice eh? Predictably when i lifted the head a load more coffee cream came out of fuggin everywhere.

 

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Heres the head, once i got it off I didnt do owt with it apart from leave it to 'drain' for a bit. at first glance there seems to be a bit of fire ring damage which will mean a skim is required. But i will do a proper inspection at the weekend when i strip it down for a clean-up.

 

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Bet the catalytic convertor loves being full of that crap. Hope a good blast will clean that lot out although I'm slightly dubious.

 

So next job is to clean everything up and strip/inspect the head properly and also clean out the bores, block etc. Got to check for bent conrods as well.

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What's the best way to get that coffee crap out of the engine? Do you just soak the head in diesel and gradually flush that stuff out of the sump or do you have to strip the whole unit down and cleanse it bit by bit?

 

Seems like there is so much of it, there can't be an easy way of clearing it? Or is there some magic trade trick to it?

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I dont think I'll be able to shift it all to be honest. The cylinder head will get dismantled and the bits chucked in a hot wash either at work or at the engine machinists. I shall wash out the waterways in the block with some diesel or paraffin or something, and probably clean the radiator out in a similar way. The oil system is not so difficult, I'll just drain the sump and put some fresh oil in, the little bit of water still in there will get burned off if/when it starts up and gets warm. The cooling system is going to be more difficult, I think I'll end up flushing it several times and it will still probably have a bit of oil in it forever.

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I had a Focus TDDi a couple of years back on which the oil cooler failed and filled the cooling system with black sludge. I used Forte engine flush which (to my surprise) got pretty much most of it out that I could see, apart from a couple of bits in the corners of the expansion tank. No idea whether other brands are better or worse as it's the only time I've had something like this.

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Steradent is good for shifting 'soft' stuff inside cooling system. Just buy a whole tube and bung the lot in overnight.

 

Wouldn't washing powder result in a comedy amount of suds pouring from every cavity of the car! At least you could see where the head gasket has popped by looking for the oily suds.

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OK so the latest developments are as follows. Last week I managed to wrestle the head off this old crock and covered the immediate surroundings in coffee cream as I did so. I left it all to drain in a placca tub for a few days and yesterday went to see what the crack was.

 

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At first glance the head didnt look too great, could see what looked like a few fire ring indentations

 

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And various other crustacea on there too, presumably from using weak or non-existaent antifreeze?

 

I stripped all the cams and that off it and gave it a proper clean up in some pez, and scrubbed the head surface with some wet & dry.

 

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Yeah that is defo unacceptable. I dont want to buy another head so this one defo needs a skim, if it needs more than 0.2 off (pretty likely I think) I will get them to take off 0.5+ and use a stainless shim to replace the lost metal. Starting to all get a bit expensive though.

 

Next I drained the bores and the water jacket of coffee cream with my syringe and made up some liner clamps so i could turn the crank without popping it all to bits:

 

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With those holding the liners in i turned the engine over on the crank pulley a few times and it spun over nicely with no obvious stiff bits or owt.

 

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I checked for bent conrods as best i could with a pair of steel rules, but they seemed OK to me. OK I should perhaps have used a dial gauge but I don't have one. If one of these rods is bent it must be a barely perceptible bend, i think its fine on the bottom end. No negative liner heights either fortunately.

 

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Next i took the radiator out to rinse the coffee shiz out of it. This turned into a right flipping war, trying to get the radiator out without removing the aircon rad is horrendous. Eventually I took enough parts off the front end to get it out.

 

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The radiator has this elbow on the inlet. One of the little bolts holding it on sheared off as i was undoing it. MOTHERFUCKA!!!! I remember swearing at these fittings on the Rover 25 radiator.

 

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A shandard M8 nut is held in a sort of moulded plastic jaw in the radiator end cap. You can imagine, as soon as there is a hint of corrosion on these things you're jiggered as the nut just turns in its plastic slot. Obv you can't use heat on them, cant get any sockets on them and can't even drill them without risking drilling into the radiator. I went to Screwix and bought a load of small drill bits (2.5, 3.5 and 4.5mm) and spent ages drilling the bastards out as carefully as i could. I did get them out but managed to drill a 2.5mm hole in the radiator end cap like a twat. By now my blood pressure really was in orbit. I did rinse a load of gloop out the radiator, then I araldited the hole up, fitted some new nuts and crossed my fingers.

 

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Managed to get the front end back together by about 4 pm. Finally i drained the sump - to my amazement 5 litres of clean water came out the sump plug!!!! Followed by another 3l of coffee cream, whcih was still slowly glugging out half an hour later. Need to leave it overnight with the sump plug out I think to get rid of it all.

 

I started totting up the costs of repairing this lot. £75 for a head gasket & bolts. £50 for a skim. £35 for the stainless shim. £30 for the water pump. £25 for a new timing belt. £30 for oil, filter & coolant Thats £250 just to get the engine back in one piece and it will still be a mediocre Rover 75 with no MOT, its defo one of my worst ever buys this fucking thing. PLus, I havent got £250 available so i was thinking it would end up sitting about till next payday (3 weeks!) before i could do owt with it.... it all looked and felt like a bit of a massive waste of time TBH. I like the idea of fixing the knackered K series engine almost just to prove it can be done, thats all very noble etc but its also a total flipping waste of money.

 

However, today I went to see the former Ms_Nuts who handed me a wodge of mail that had arrived for me. Amongst it was a totally unexpected tax rebate cheque for £1500!!!! HOLY SHIT!!! So now the head is in the back of my car and will be getting its ass machined this week sometime!!!! Easy come easy go - this one's on HMRC.

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I got so pissed off with those plastic jaw nut holder things when replacing my Astra radiator. I had to hacksaw down 4 bolts when fitting the new one as the old ones were just spherical blobs of rust and all the bolts I had were too long and would have pierced the placca end of the rad. As such, when I replaced my Vectra radiator I just cable tied the new one on. Held perfect for 4 years until the car was scrapped. I have since found that if you wedge a small electrical screwdriver in beside the nut it holds it just enough to allow the bolt to get some purchase.

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I see you've finally made the big time and they've made a film about your experiences battling all these Rovers.

I presume this scene with you pointing the gun at the other guy is you trying to get the locking nut off the previous owner?

 

 

Fear the man with nothing left to lose

 

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Yeah bolox, it's a good job you can funnel your "proving a point" passions into fixing K serieses, most people with that kind of determination would end up murdering someone in a road rage incident or something.

 

That coffee creme stuff is lovely to shift, I bought a t25 that some bloke had owned for 20 odd years, but when the water low light came on they put 10 litres of water down the oil filler tube thing what pokes out behind the number plate flap. The thing was full to the top, it was coming out of the flipping carb, you name it.

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However, today I went to see the former Ms_Nuts who handed me a wodge of mail that had arrived for me. Amongst it was a totally unexpected tax rebate cheque for £1500!!!! HOLY SHIT!!! So now the head is in the back of my car and will be getting its ass machined this week sometime!!!! Easy come easy go - this one's on HMRC.

 

Nice work Reg. I do hope some of that 1500 smackers will be going on a LeBonCoin-sourced A-framing mission.

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