Reginald Nutsack's K-series Kapers - ROVER 623 MOT GUFF

[dugong]

Do you want an MG6?

[saucedoctor]

Keep engine, throw MG6 away.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

I'd love an MG6, cant wait for them to get in the HGF death zone

[Mr_Bo11ox]

I see someone on eBay is breaking a 60-plate Crispy Duck MGTF, they want £750 for the 135hp non-turbo N-series engine out of it. I'd love to get that and take it to bits to see what 'Improvements' they made to the origins K series design.

[saucedoctor]

Oil rail and non OMGHGF gasket IIRC. The gasket is rumoured to be the one that MG Rover had perfected immediately prior to The Unpleasantness.

 

Lord Sward has the PK on this.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

I reckon the oil rail mod is 100% bo11ocks. I have stared at it for some considerable time and cannot see what possible difference it makes to the longevity of the engine. I read it helps counter some torsional force that the freelander transmission feeds into the K-series block - I havent looked at a freelander transmission and how its mounted so I don't know about that, but on a conventional 2wd K installation i just cannot see what conceivable difference it would make.

[dave21478]

I dont see what difference a Freelander transmission would make either - its just a normal 2wd gearbox setup like any other front wheel drive car but with a transfer box bolted onto the back of it. I very much doubt that it would be causing any kind of flexing force to the block.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Yeah so I had a bit of a faff with this yesterday. First problem was the oft-encountered missing wheelnut key. I need to at least make an attenpt to call the old boy and ask if he has this, but TBH I have little hope of him being able to manage all the steps of locating it, finding a jiffy bag, retaining my address and managing to get the whole lot to a post office at the same time. So after a lot of fannying about unsuccessfully attempting to make a tool and use a pukka

Sealey locking wheelnut remover, I eventually defeated it by turning the mig up to 6 (max power innit) and welding a wonky bolt on.

 

 

That allowed me to get the wheelarch liner out and access the crank pulley. I found I could move the crank a bit but it locked up quite easily explaining the lame whine from the starter. Had a lurg at the plugs:

 

 

Oh aye, very interesting!

 

I turned the crank a little bit unleashing a full-on K-SERIES BUKKAKE SESH with big globs of coffee cream squirting from the various plug holes, and the inlet manifold when i got access to that!!

 

 

 

I used a syringe to get rid of a lot of the coffee cream from the bores, after which it turned over very smoothly much to my surprise!!

 

Then I ran out of time so had to tidy everything away and FRO. However I am chuffed that at least the engine isnt seized. Next time I'm down the garage it wont take long to whip the head off and see what surprises are inside. I reckon the likelihood of a wholesale engine replacement just went down a little bit, (maybe from 90% to 80% LOL)

[Jim Bell]

All K-Series problems are a myth.

Carry on the great work fella.

[phil_lihp]

After the 25 turned into such a mare you're due some good (k)arma with this one.  Looks very clean on the outside given the hygiene issues inside, one of the few cars that looks genuinely good in silver too.

[Lankytim]

I weighed in a mintola Rover 25 1.4 a couple of months ago as the inlaws just didn't wan't it anymore. 54k on the clock and FSH, recent HG e.t.c. Shame as I bet the lump would have been great for spares, or just swap the whole lump in for 1.4 Rover 75 crapness.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

A 75 1.4 does sound amazing, I bet it would do 50mph or so

[Vince70]

For true shite points you need to make it a 1.1

[twosmoke300]

8v

[Lankytim]

On a carb..

[twosmoke300]

hot bulb ignition

[phil_lihp]

A 75 or 800 with a 1.1 k-series from a Rover 100 would be quite a brilliant project.  Useless, but brilliant.  Drive it to the MOT station and act as though there's nothing unusual about the car at all.  I wonder if it'd actually be able to move under its own steam (pun not intended).  

[Parky]

848cc A series. 38 horses should give a power to weight ratio of about 25bhp/tonne.

 

The motoring equivalent of a 50cc scooter!

[KruJoe]

I had a dream last week that I pulled the V6 out of an Alfa 156 estate, and stuck it in the back of a Cinquecento for lethal giggles, and just so I didn't waste any parts (and for lols), I plonked the 900cc effort from the Cinq in the Alfa's hole. Wish I had the time, skills and balls to do it for real.

[twosmoke300]

Like the old days of making tritons and then making noruphs with the left overs

[dollywobbler]

It's like that they do in Cuba innit? Get a big old barge, chuck the meaty original engine away and fit a Lada engine. 

[J-T]

Everything seemed to have an XUD in it when I went to Cuba last year. The best was getting into a massive old Volga of some discription, to find the dash from a Peugeot 306 had been shoehorned in, clocks and all with the rattliest, slowest NA diesel engine imaginable, with a gearbox that had the gate backwards.

 

And seats from a coach.

[Lacquer Peel]

A series diesel out of a BMC Mini tractor would be my choice.

 

75s are great looking cars, good work saving this near hopeless case.

[garethj]

First problem was the oft-encountered missing wheelnut key. So after a lot of fannying about unsuccessfully attempting to make a tool and use a pukka

Sealey locking wheelnut remover, I eventually defeated it by turning the mig up to 6 (max power innit) and welding a wonky bolt on.

 

Shouldn't this part be 12 pages on its own?

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Done a bit on this today. Its a right flipping carry-on taking the engine to bits. Every time you unbolt something a gallon of coffee cream pours out all over the floor:

 

 

 

 

I had hoped to get the head off this today for an inspection. I got stuck on removing the crank pulley bolt though so the head is still on. Anyone got any tips about that? I see you can buy a crankshaft locking tool for a Rover 75 but I have a feeling its only any good if the gearbox is already off, and I cant find any confirmation anywhere if different ones are used for 1.8's and 2.0/2.5 V6's

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/laser-4522-Flywheel-Locking-Tool-Rover-75-/400320948834

 

I have seen a good tip about wrapping a ratchet strap around the crank pulley and securing it to a suspension arm or whatever which could work so I might give that a whirl through the week sometime.

[vulgalour]

That looks less like OMGHGF and an awful lot more like Baileys.

[Sigmund Fraud]

I had hoped to get the head off this today for an inspection. I got stuck on removing the crank pulley bolt though so the head is still on. Anyone got any tips about that? I see you can buy a crankshaft locking tool for a Rover 75 but I have a feeling its only any good if the gearbox is already off, and I cant find any confirmation anywhere if different ones are used for 1.8's and 2.0/2.5 V6's

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/laser-4522-Flywheel-Locking-Tool-Rover-75-/400320948834

 

I have seen a good tip about wrapping a ratchet strap around the crank pulley and securing it to a suspension arm or whatever which could work so I might give that a whirl through the week sometime.

 

The KV6 uses a Renault-inspired locking pin, so the tool above should be correct for the K16-engined 75. I suppose the only way to know if it fits with the gearbox on would be to take the starter off and see if there's enough space for the tool.

 

Alternatively, can't you try the nylon cord trick ?

[twosmoke300]

Are you sure the headgaskets gone ? Cant see anything conclusive there !

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Whats the nylon cord trick, is that where you stuff it down the plug holes?? I don't think you could shove it into this engine cos of the gloop in the bores.

 

Just been onto the seller, he's sending me a spare key but seemingly the locking wheel ut key is LOST so I'm on my own with that f***er.

[Sigmund Fraud]

Yup, that's the one : get #1 a bit after TDC, shove as much of a washing line as you can down the plug hole then begin undoing the pulley nut. Theory is that the crank will rotate backwards a bit until the rope jams the piston on its way back to TDC. You may indeed not be able to get enough cord in the cylinder due to the gloop, but you could always try it if you're getting desperate.

 

Would jamming the flywheel against the bellhousing with a screwdriver be too barbaric ?