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J-T

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Everything posted by J-T

  1. Ive been working this thing hard these last couple of weeks. That’s about 12 sacks of rubble it swallowed in one go. Started it up and the air suspension did as it should and didn’t explode so I’ll take that as a win. You could feel it rising up and levelling itself. It swallowed an (admittedly small) kitchen, gas oven and extractor in one go the day before. It may cost about 80p a mile in fuel but it definitely saves on skips! As expected, I’ve dealt with precisely none of its issues and worked it like an old pit pony, which is likely to continue for another month or so. I absolutely love driving the thing, I had a brand new MG4 XPower company car delivered in December and that’s done a total of 500 miles because, unless I’m going somewhere for work, I pick up the keys to this every time.
  2. I’ve actually got those saved 😄 I need to put a halt on spending now though for this month, especially on something that doesn’t really need doing
  3. That’s a good price, I think I paid £350 for just a fluid change on the same gearbox on my 335d at an auto transmission place in Leigh. It made a noticeable difference as well.
  4. In that incarnation they had gained a plastic inlet manifold which did the usual thing of gunking itself up with shite from the EGR valve and featuring misbehaving swirl flaps so it was probably that. Can’t remember the last time I saw a 147 in the wild now, or a Stilo (which we also used to have) I should make clear, I’ve a company car so it’s probably only getting used about once a week. Hopefully it’ll tolerate this inconvenience. Noted on the diff oil, I don’t think the noise is anything to worry about it might even be the tyres or just general transmission noise at 140k miles!
  5. I also saw this 'previously featured', advertised as spears or reapers the other day, apparently running like a bag of shit. Still looked quite arousing though.
  6. Looks like I never brought this ungrateful Jag tale to a close. In brief, I fired the fucker through an auction. Got most of my money back so all was not lost. It looked increasingly like it had a warped manifold and I didn't have the space/time to get involved with that. So, after having so much trouble with the 4.2 Supercharged V8 donk, what was the sensible thing to do? Yes, that's right! Purchase an 18 year old Range Rover with the same engine. Enter @Wack's old one. Well, I've always wanted one, I need something for shifting shite as I'm renovating a house and selling another and this cropped up 2mins from my Mum's house at a price I couldn't refuse. As in I couldn't find one cheaper that ran and had MOT. Of course, any 18 year (or month!) old JLR product will not be without issue and this is no different. It's the full fat fancy pants Vogue SE which I think was top dog in 2006 when this was new. That means it is loaded with equipment, much of which no longer functions as intended. Here's a list of character features off the top of my head: DVD player - missing TV - inop CD Changer - inop Parking sensors - inop Harmon Kardon Logic 7 sound system - sounds like a fart in a tin due to a blown door speaker Rear wiper - inop Rear view camera - missing & therefore inop Spare wheel well - water receptacle (have landrover ever made a car that doesn't leak?) Heated steering wheel - inop Driver's heated seat - inop Diffs - whining Prop - clunking Glass - covered in a clear film that's gone weird so some windows are like looking through a jam jar. Think it might be UV protection. Or was. EML - glowing brightly (believed to be a code for a downstream O2 sensor. Not again, arrrrgh) Rust - present in the usual places Driver - wafting about like the lord of the manor and couldn't give a flying shit I should clarify this was all made clear in the advert! I proper love it man. You feel more like you're captaining a ship than driving a motor vehicle and it's HUGE and so tall, but I find it 100x easier to park than pretty much any modern because you can actually see out of it properly and can tell where the corners are. And I just love that woofly noise it makes as you waft about. There's a trip computer display on the centre screen that shows a readout of MPG, so that's been turned right off, don't need a constant reminder of that, cheers. And I've already done a fix; it recently had a new battery and the key had lost communication with the car, so had to be inserted in the lock and turned like some kind of tradesman, which would then set the alarm off until it was started. Most unbecoming. Thankfully, I've managed to pair it again so remote operation is resumed. It clearly likes me. Other good points, it's in my favourite colour. The aircon works. It's been well serviced. The air suspension is wor...I'm not finishing that proclamation. It's currently sporting a set of 21" wheels from an L405 Range Rover with 4 Pirelli Scorpions which are in great nick but they're a bit big and it doesn't really need making taller. It think it needs to come down a tyre profile but there's no way I'll be doing that. I might keep an eye out for some 19/20" wheels with good tyres and flog these as they seem to bring good money. I may address some of the other bits over time, but really I'm wanting this as a bit of a workhorse and I've proper skinted myself this month buying it, so don't hold your collective breath!
  7. Should be a nice thing to bomb about in. Was it supplied with the obligatory 3 burner phones?
  8. What an absolute pisser. Having recently been in a similar position (albeit nowhere near to the same degree), I can appreciate how galling this is. It just goes to show, it doesn’t really matter how much you try to mitigate it on low cost big liability stuff, if it wants to ruin you it just fucking will. What kind of money does an engine change hands for on one of these?
  9. Are you gonna get the new manifolds ceramic coated or anything to help with heat soak? I had an Alfa 147 GTA that had coated manifolds and it made a fair difference.
  10. ‘Kinell, check out mine and @Crispian_J_Hotson’s threads on supercharged big cats. Best of bloody British to you.
  11. He just has! Reading this, I’m almost positive mine has the same issue. Bank 2 off the scale lean with Bank 1 perfect and no discernible inlet leak? Fancy doing another? 😂 I have only admiration - there’s no way I’m dropping the engine on mine. It’s fate is now sealed. Cracking thread BTW, can’t wait to see this done!
  12. SSSHHHHHHH!!! It’ll already be plotting its revenge for such a statement
  13. Cheers for looking man. Air temp was about right, it was a warm day so you may need to check your flap (ooof). I can’t think of anything else to eliminate now, other than trying to get the manifold heat shield off and get an endoscope down there to check for a manifold crack. But it doesn’t sound like a leaky manifold. It’s the only thing I’ve found that’s made any difference to bank 2’s trim at idle. Spraying the other potential leak points made no change at all. However I couldn’t get any smoke to appear when I smoke tested it (although I was pissing about with a jam jar, smoke pellets and tyre pump rather than something actually credible). It just means taking on a likely 10hr plus job to remove the supercharger on a ‘maybe’ but it’s looking inevitable! If I do, I’ll just change every bastard gasket along the way. There’s a coolant hose underneath the charger that likes to split so I’d do that as well.
  14. I think he said the XJC he had done was £70k plus and that turned out to be in much better nick than that Zagato so it wouldn’t surprise me if it’s cost north of £100k.
  15. I’ve left this alone for a bit as I’ve just stated a new job and didn’t have the mental bandwidth! Just been out and had another mess with some brake cleaner and a straw trying to find this air leak. It’s only affecting bank 2 so can only be the upper manifold gasket or gasket between charge cooler and head, if it’s an inlet leak rather than exhaust. The only time I got the short term trims to deviate from between 24.2 and 25% was if I aimed the straw in between the supercharger and chargecooler on bank 2 as far down as possible and kept my finger on the trigger for about 10s. This would cause the STFT to drop to about 20%, then creep up again once I stopped spraying. This would fit with an air leak between the charge cooler and the head, however I would have expected this to have a more dramatic effect on the short term trim, as in I would expect it to nose dive if it managed to draw in the brake cleaner. I repeated this 3x and each time got the same result as above. What do we think?
  16. Had a go at smoke testing it today. First I tried it with the smoke entering through the PCV line in the intake hose and capped the end off with a rubber glove. I had a few attempts but couldn’t find any leaks. I managed to get a bit of pressure in there, but nothing. I had the ignition on with a brick on the throttle but I don’t know if that was actually opening the throttle butterfly so I had another look for somewhere else to test past the throttle body. I found this little vac line on the back of the charge cooler manifold, so found some smaller diameter tubing and connected to that (pic is upside down). At first I though I’d found a leak on the gasket between it and the top of the supercharger (albeit on bank 1 side) but I think it was just smoke tracking under the inlet pipe that was coming out of the vac line stub in the photo above that I’d connected to as the seal wasn’t perfect. Other than that, I could find no leaks. And I tried several times. I had a play about with some items on bank 2 with the car running and the scan tool attached. I lifted the dipstick, made no difference to bank 2 fuel trims as they are already maxed out but bank 1’s increased, then dropped back when it was pushed back in. The O ring on it was quite perished so I replaced it but no change. I unscrewed the oil cap with the engine running which made it run slightly rough and again made bank 1’s fuel trims increase. Once it was back on, bank 1’s trims fell back to near 0, so I can assume it’s not that (bank 2 still maxed out). I pulled the little vac line off in the pic above with the engine running and had the same results as the oil cap, with bank 1’s trims increasing, then falling back once it was back on and bank 2 remaining maxed out throughout (what is this vac line for?). I’m at the point of giving up with it now, I’m not prepared to go through the battle of pulling the supercharger when I can find no obvious fault. I can’t really think of anything else to try.
  17. I’ve got my home brew smoke tester set up, planning to have a go with it tomorrow. Does anyone know if there a way of keeping the throttle butterfly open when doing the smoke test? I’ve heard it’s a bad idea to move them manually (it’s a fly by wire throttle obvzz)
  18. There is a relay for the O2 sensors and 2 fuses for the sensor heaters. The fuses are fine and I swapped the relay with a matching one in the fuse box yesterday and it made no difference. There are some pinpoint tests in the workshop manual to do at the ECU but I’ve been putting them off because 1. I don’t have multimeter leads long enough to reach both plugs and 2. It means taking all the scuttle apart again as well as removing the heater intake to get at the ECU, but it’s looking like I’m going to have to. I just hate doing electrical testing because I don’t understand it properly and don’t know what I’m looking for but I suppose I can’t go that far wrong if I just follow the manual. The sensor itself is new, so I don’t think it’s that.
  19. It's me not wording things very well. I tested the heater circuit on all three O2 sensors. One was open circuit, two were not. The one that was open circuit was the dead one, which is no longer fitted to the car. As soon as it was replaced the P1647 fault code went off and the car went back into closed loop fuelling, so the 'bad' one is definitely off now. Following on from @Dave_Q's suggestions, I've had another mess with it today: As suspected, as soon as I started it up today I got an EML, restricted performance and P0174. Fuel trims on bank 2 are more or less permanently 25% short term and 19.5% long term at idle. The long term trim will drop to around 6% when held at 2500rpm. Tried to do a bit more ruling in/out. I swapped all coil packs from bank 2 to bank 1 and vice versa to see if a bad coil pack would move the fault to bank 1. Other than discovering that 1 coil on each bank has been replaced (googled the part numbers and they are correct), there was no change. There is some oil in the plug wells so it probably needs the cam cover gaskets changing, but I don't think that's affecting anything. I pulled a spark plug on each bank. They look relatively new, are NGK IFR5N10 which I think are correct. Only thing to note was bank 2's plug was very fuelly. I got some brake cleaner and sprayed it all over the seal between bank 2's charge cooler and the manifold that splits the air flow to see if it would reveal an air leak. No change to the trims. I sprayed a load of brake cleaner towards the base of the charge cooler to try to access the gasket between it and the head. No change. I sprayed brake cleaner at the crank case ventilation tube on bank 2. No change (I also later pulled this out and checked the O-ring which still looked good and wasn't flattened). I couldn't see anywhere else that an air leak to that one bank could occur. I took the MAF out. It looked fine but i gave it a very gentle spray with electrical contact cleaner and re-fitted it. It made no difference to the trims, but I initially thought I had killed it, as on live data, the air flow rate and intake air temp were both reading 0 - I had just forgotten to plug it back in! Once plugged in, these values returned to what they were (incidentally, I though if the MAF was unplugged, it would change to open loop fuelling, as it would not know the volume of air to expect, but it didn't). No change to the trims, although I now have a pending code for MAF and Intake Air Temp! I jacked it up and had a good look at the bank 2 exhaust manifold to cat joint in case there was a leak. There definitely is no leak there; there is no evidence around the joint and I was able to feel around it with my hand with the engine running and it's not blowing. I couldn't see the manifold itself as the heat shield completely covers it. The bolts are very rusty and I don't think it'll come off. I'm going to try and cobble together my own smoke tester to rule in or out the air leak. The only place I can see a leak now being likely is the gasket between the charge cooler and the head, as you can't really get access to it with brake cleaner with everything in place. If the smoke test does not reveal an air leak, then I think injectors are the only thing left? I'll post up the full live data stream below with the car at idle, in case anything jumps out that I'm not seeing that could be another clue:
  20. It’s worth a try if only to rule out. But I’m not getting any misfire codes and it never feels as though it’s missing. I’m going to try and rig up a home made smoke tester a la @cort16. I’m only ever getting the code on bank 2, so if it is an air leak, it can only be in the region of the charge cooler on that bank as everything else on the inlet is before it splits and would presumably affect both banks. Unless it’s a cracked exhaust mani. I might have to buy an endoscope as you can’t see shit down there.
  21. Turns out I was being thick and had bank 1 & 2 the wrong way around, so I had changed the good sensor, not the bad! With the correct sensor dispensed with, it got rid of the fault codes for the HO2 sensors. Initially, it looked like this had been the issue all along; a failing O2 sensor giving strange readings (reporting bank 2 as lean), then failing altogether. With the new sensor fitted, fuel trims on both banks were good (within +/-5%) at idle and at 2500rpm. This was last night and I didn't have time to take it for a drive. I've done that today, twice for about an hour each time. After the first drive, things were fine, I had live data on, fuel trims were behaving and did so after a long idle when I got back. I've just been out in it for the 2nd time and took it for a hard drive. The car has 7 diagnostic monitors for stuff like EGR, cat efficiency, misfires etc which it does a self check on and will report back 'ok' on the scan tool (it can take a while for this as certain driving conditions have to be met) . The monitor for O2 sensors was still saying incomplete. The workshop manual tells you how to try and complete a drive cycle for each monitor. For the O2 sensors, you have to get the car up to temp, drive it between 3-4k rpm in 3rd, then coast to a stop x 2, then let it idle for 11 mins. I tried this a couple of times but it still didn't complete, so I took it out and gave it a good ragging. I plugged the scan tool back in and noticed the fuel trims on bank 2 had crept up again, sort term trims were now up around 15%. I didn't like the look of this, so I turned it off, let it rest for 30s or so, then took it back out for a gentle drive around the block, with live data on. Back at home, this was what it was showing: At idle: Bank 1: STFT 0.8% LTFT 5.5% Bank 2: STFT 25% LTFT 18% At 2500rpm: Bank 1: STFT 9.4% LTFT 0% Bank 2: STFT 25% LTFT 5.5% FUCK. I read the fault codes again and sure enough, I now have P0174 (bank 2 lean) pending (on these, the conditions have to be met twice to turn the EML on, if it hits it once, it's stored as pending, so basically next time I drive it, the EML will come on again). So, really I'm back to where I started. However, I'm struggling to understand why would it take 100 or so miles and 2hrs driving for this to show up? Surely if there is an air leak it would show immediately, yet the trims were fine at first, then slowly went out of range on one bank? This seems to be what it's done every time.
  22. New upstream O2 sensor has arrived. I've just swapped out the non-working sensor for the new one (a Blueprint sensor which is an exact match for the other one fitted that it likes). P1646 code which is upper O2 sensor bank 1 did not clear. I've tried swapping the new sensor over on to bank 2 and the code has moved with it (now P1647)! I know this indicates that the new sensor is faulty but I just find that very hard to believe. I can't think of much else I can check. There are are numerous wiring tests that the jag manual suggests if the code doesn't clear, which involve getting the ECU out the dash from behind the glovebox but I don't see how it can be a wiring fault when the fault code moves according to which sensor is fitted.
  23. Fuck me, 10 large on an engine rebuild! Someone must have really loved it. Anyway, right colour, right wheels, WOULD! These have been winking at me for a while so interested to see how you get on with it
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