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The Bikeshite Thread


warren t claim

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I had one of them* it was rusty at 6 months old. I sold it to a mate for his CBT etc, he took it off road once (I never did) he got 12" of air off a jump & bend the swingarm massively! So I hope whoever buys it has a smooth field!

 

 

 

 

 

* looked the same, was a GY125 but I can't recall the make.

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  • 2 weeks later...

As alluded to on the high street thread after moaning about tyre changing and threading to try myself I've finally bitten the bullet and have a round bit of rubber and some hopefully manly enough levers enroute. I'll upload pictures of my bruises and scrapped knuckles in due course.

 

What I did actually get done was follow Pilingas' sartorial advice and fit these fresh off a boat from Shenzen. Took less faffing to fit than the last genuine clutch lever I had to put on, match up perfectly and are pretty substantial metal so I'm happy.

 

Now all I need is a free weekend day to see how they'll have turned me into Marquez, oh what's that it's forecast to snow this weekend FFS.

 

 

 

 

 

 

post-20069-0-49399800-1547568182_thumb.jpg

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Is it really worth that?

 

It was me who wanted a working field bike, but since I have found out that end of life bikes are worth more than cars I think I need to fix the Honda Vision and Peugeot Elyseo 50 for the field.

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Why put cheap Chinese shit on safety critical components?

 

Serious question, do you want the lever to fail when you need it the most? I had one cause the brakes to jam on and tip me off my track bike at 90mph, a friend had one that caused an uncontrolled emergency stop from 120mph, I've known others with issues too, they are not worth it in my opinion, I only fitted it to my track bike as I'd dropped it and broke the standard lever and it was the only spare I had, expensive lesson, freshly built bike, 3 miles ridden, written off, I wasn't so good either.

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Is it really worth that?

 

It was me who wanted a working field bike, but since I have found out that end of life bikes are worth more than cars I think I need to fix the Honda Vision and Peugeot Elyseo 50 for the field.

 

I've used a load of the Chinese off road style cheepo bikes (worked at a offroad track) and they are a random mixed bunch, some a waste of space and others well made in an agricultural way.. None up to KTM standard but, pick the right ones - junk all the plastic decorations, sling a couple of 125s in the back of a bakkie then go and play all day off road on farm tracks (South Africa), come back, hose it down and check what need attention before doing all over again. The big wheels win over tiny ones on tracks.

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I have Chinese short levers (non adjustable)on my SV650. I compared them very closely to the standard ones, and the actual business end was identical, so cannot see how these would fail. What was the reason yours failed Jazoli? Was it the actual lever, or the adjuster mechanism? Incidental, a mate tried to beak one of his Chinese sourced levers by snapping it with a long tube over the end. It took an awful lot of effort he said.

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Why put cheap Chinese shit on safety critical components?

 

Serious question, do you want the lever to fail when you need it the most? I had one cause the brakes to jam on and tip me off my track bike at 90mph, a friend had one that caused an uncontrolled emergency stop from 120mph, I've known others with issues too, they are not worth it in my opinion, I only fitted it to my track bike as I'd dropped it and broke the standard lever and it was the only spare I had, expensive lesson, freshly built bike, 3 miles ridden, written off, I wasn't so good either.

 

Sorry I'd clicked reply then wandered out to the garage to go and swap the levers back and double check the difference so missed Jerzy Wokings reply asking the same thing.

 

 

 

............................

 

 

 

What failed on the levers that you and your friend installed and what bikes were they on?

 

I'm far from someone who wouldn't change their mind and junk them, but from the research I've done all the locking up incidents have been where either the levers were physically holding the brakes on marginally when released, building up heat  on certain master cylinders.

 

By checking that the fit of the aftermarket one it appears to put less pressure on the cylinder at rest than the stock lever I really don't see the problem? If tolerances were that small any time a bike was dropped it would need transporting home in case something got knocked a mm and I don't think many people do that.

 

It also only seems to affect certain makes, GSXR forums are full of tales for instance. From a cursory search I can't find many reports of Hondas having the same issues.

 

Honestly, if I've got the wrong end of the stick and it was some other issue with them that caused your issues please let me know.

Edited by LostnotFound
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-pxr-50-px50r-pretty-rare-little-bike-ideal-restoration-project-/264091936742?nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2349624.m43663.l10137#vi__app-cvip-panel

Wotsit wurf?

It didn't sell at £325 and the chap was not into accepting £250.

I'm not sure I want to pay the £300 he wants for a non runner that seems quite scruffy. Am I being too tight?

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Sorry I'd clicked reply then wandered out to the garage to go and swap the levers back and double check the difference so missed Jerzy Wokings reply asking the same thing.

 

 

 

............................

 

 

 

What failed on the levers that you and your friend installed and what bikes were they on?

 

I'm far from someone who wouldn't change their mind and junk them, but from the research I've done all the locking up incidents have been where either the levers were physically holding the brakes on marginally when released, building up heat  on certain master cylinders.

 

By checking that the fit of the aftermarket one it appears to put less pressure on the cylinder at rest than the stock lever I really don't see the problem? If tolerances were that small any time a bike was dropped it would need transporting home in case something got knocked a mm and I don't think many people do that.

 

It also only seems to affect certain makes, GSXR forums are full of tales for instance. From a cursory search I can't find many reports of Hondas having the same issues.

 

Honestly, if I've got the wrong end of the stick and it was some other issue with them that caused your issues please let me know.

 

What happened on mine I (and others) think that the lever was putting pressure on the plunger ever so slightly, as the brakes got hotter the wheel locked, I didn't realise at first and just thought the bike was bogging down as it was the first time I'd run it anywhere (on the sighting lap) and the fuelling was a bit shit (TT600), second time up Clay Hill and bang, I'm on my arse and the bike is smashing itself to bits, you can see the vid here, there wasn't anything left of the master cylinder or brake lever for a more detailed examination, it got smashed off when the bike hit the deck, prior to this the bike had been pushed around the paddock easily and the wheel spun freely when I removed the tyre warmers, I'm not a mechanical numpty and crew chief for a mates race team occasionally so I have a vague idea of what I am doing.

 

 

That was a Triumph, the other issue I mentioned was on a '14 ZX10R, and happened after a very spirited ride, luckily he was only doing 120mph, he was going a lot faster a few seconds before, there have been lots of issues at trackdays but some people spend thousands on bikes/tyres/kit then spend £12 on a set of levers  :?

 

I honestly just don't think they are worth the risk, and can be a bit vocal about it because I've been on the receiving end of an accident most likely caused by a poor quality part, at the end of the day its your money and your choice, but I want complete trust in the lever when I need maximum braking :)

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sorry 4 bikes:

 

FZR1000

FZ1S

NC700

and now the ZX10R

 

Yup, and I had them on 2 x FZS1000, 1 x FZS600, 2 x Speed Triples, 1 x Daytona 955, a Fireblade, a Hornet, an R1, then a TT600, since then I have only fitted OE or decent quality aftermarket, it only takes one ;):) 

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Hmm.

 

I can't deny what happened to Jazoli but I do work in automotive components, from my experience the OEMs will be happy to take them from any Chinese machining concern and they will pay less than the ebay price for them.

 

Ultimately its a lump of metal machined by CNC, the places that make them don't even really understand how to set the machine up, they will get someone in to set it up to the provided drawing and press the go button.

 

The only thing I can think is that probably the 3rd party ones are based off measuring originals, and at extremes of tolerance some may catch in a way that the originals didn't, but you would have to be pretty unlucky.

 

I also would have thought that you'd be able to tell if anything was catching or sticking, it's not like the levers heat up enough to make a difference to the relative clearance in operation?

 

Overall I am happy to chance them, indeed I have them fitted to my SV right now.

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There no denying from Jazoli, and from what I have since read on line that there have been issues with some levers on some bikes.

 

I won't use cheap oil filters because I can't see inside them. Levers I can (and do) check that they are the same shape and thickness at the master cylinder end.

 

I haven't seen or measured any difference on the Chinese levers I have fitted to my bikes in the past. I have aftermarket levers on my KTM (Pazzo) and my Guzzi (Guzzi's own).

 

Maybe I am being naive thinking that if I can't see or measure any difference over standard levers, then they must be okay.

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Hi all , had a good afternoon spannering on a friends long time stored Honda cbr 600 f2? . He had purchased a new battery and fresh fuel and after much cranking over , a flat battery and no vroom! . He said at no time during his battery flattering cranking session could he smell fuel or flooded it . Blocked fuel something it is then! . I got to his house , he put the kettle on , I took the tank off checked fuel tap( on demand vacum type ) no flow , this is going to be a one tea fix ! . Quick strip and clean of the diaphragm and on demand fuel flow is working with a suck on the vacum pipe , tea is still hot . Splash of petrol in each carb mouth , crank it and vroom vroom ,sparks are working . Refit fuel tank and seat , drink tea with biscuits ready for a ride round the garages . It was a good plan but did not work out . I have never seen so much petrol pour out of a bank of carburettor s onto a running engine ! . It cranked for 10 seconds started for 5 seconds and poured fuel for a minute, not good . A full kettle was put on to boil . We stripped the bodywork off again and set about blowing up the fuel pipe whilst brushing soapy water on the pipes and carb bodies , bubbles at the T pieces on the carbs revealed the leaks . Carbs had to be taken off and apart .post-27086-0-90454600-1547678882_thumb.jpegpost-27086-0-99384400-1547679100_thumb.jpegthese are the o rings that caused the fuel leak post-27086-0-07894300-1547679237_thumb.jpeg . New o rings are needed to stop the fuel leak and new inlet rubbers to stop air leaks , eBay it is then . I need a shower and a change of clothes to get rid of the smell of petrol . I will post up how the rebuild goes and mot preparation. Cheers Justin.

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Currently hoping to buy an Ariel Red Hunter project off my dad,now he's distracted with his Trojan utility I know he will never do anything with it and I'm desperate to have a Brit bike again after being 'out of the circle' for 10 years+ obviously special price has been mentioned,but got to play the slowly slowly approach :-)

Buy? Off your Dad?

No.

Try this approach.

Dad would you like me to fix that bike for you?

You would? Great. Would you like to buy the parts, but the Labour is free?

Later

Erm, could yoh transfer the V5 into my name as I'm responsible for it whilst I've got it. No the v5 is not proof of ownership. It's still yours.

 

Then later when finished.

 

Would you like a go on your old bike Dad?

 

No you sold it to me. Don't you remember. Maybe we need to get you checked out.

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Can anyone suggest a good chain degreaser product?  I used to buy Castrol 'Green' stuff which was ace and water-soluble, it seems to have disappeared though.  Don't want stinky Gunk

 

I use paraffin & rinse it off with water before relubing.

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Just not worth the risk as a contractor I don’t get paid if I’m dead, I’ve done 10 months this year at 350-450 miles a week on the bike (600 if visiting family) so the odds have been stacked already so I’ll take the last week in jan until the start of April.

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