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Peter C

2007 Volvo V70 D5 2.4 automatic - SOLD - New Owner Updates

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Our 2006 is going to be written off by the insurers and is being collected on Monday. It's a 2006 2.4d with 125k miles and full service history. We've still been using it for 2 months since the accident and the damage is just cosmetic. I can ask to buy it back from them if you like and it would give you tons of spares. It has black leather and is 7 seats. Other than the damage it's pretty much spot on.

Would you be interested? It still has loads of mot left. Of course it all depends on the price they ask.

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1 hour ago, paulplom said:

Would you be interested? It still has loads of mot left. Of course it all depends on the price they ask.

Yes, quite possibly - as you say, depends on price! Drop me a PM and let me know, thanks for bearing me in mind¬†ūüôā

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3 hours ago, paulplom said:

Our 2006 is going to be written off by the insurers and is being collected on Monday. It's a 2006 2.4d with 125k miles and full service history. We've still been using it for 2 months since the accident and the damage is just cosmetic. I can ask to buy it back from them if you like and it would give you tons of spares. It has black leather and is 7 seats. Other than the damage it's pretty much spot on.

Would you be interested? It still has loads of mot left. Of course it all depends on the price they ask.

Sorry to hear it's been written off, what happened? 

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18 hours ago, paulplom said:

My partner drove it up the side of my van

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 

Gutted! Yeah I'm interested, give us a shout once you've spoken to your insurance.

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Still struggling to get my head round this, I had the sump off today and couldn't see anything wrong. The stopping points don't seem to correspond with TDC on a particular piston, I still haven't got a clue what's stopping it. Oil pump maybe? As a bonus, it all looks pretty clean in there.

IMG_20190831_140033.thumb.jpg.4bb30bb58007baba91ec4147a77c6e98.jpg

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Hey shiters, long time no update. Basically I couldn't figure out what was causing the engine to lock up (and neither could anyone else), so I threw my toys out of the pram and left it to sulk in the unit for a bit. Unfortunately this didn't fix it, so the decision has been made to take the good cylinder head from the new engine and stick it onto the old bottom end. Of course I could've done that in the first place without taking the engine out, but let's not think about that. Anyway, parts have been ordered and the old, fucked head removed. Bores look pretty good so we should be alright to get back on with this over the next few weeks,

IMG_20191201_181717.thumb.jpg.694b8bed34d9a9d58727b90d8ce0d1e8.jpg

IMG_20191201_181713.thumb.jpg.6f54b4e4d486fba32afa8ba8496306d1.jpg

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Happy festivities 'shiters! Got a bit done on this today and maybe figured out the mystery of why the engine locked up. Nothing says Christmas cheer like spannering Volvos in a cold workshop right?

Got the head off the new engine which had a fair amount of clag from the manifold in it, as expected:

IMG_20191226_134300.thumb.jpg.d067a1d5d2b7e320cf0bcdaab999f774.jpg

On closer inspection, there was a slightly shiny, crushed finish on the carbon in one of the cylinders:

IMG_20191226_134521.thumb.jpg.7dc16112b115af0038eb51c0c42f3cae.jpg

And there was also clag stuck to the corresponding part of the head:

IMG_20191226_135132.thumb.jpg.17fae2127249a3f191857daa96f38914.jpg

So that's my best guess as to what was locking up the engine, there was quite a bit and it was pretty solid. Who knows.

IMG_20191226_155325.thumb.jpg.4246f295dae6092549c7bd49cc56a517.jpgIMG_20191226_155343.thumb.jpg.3ad8abb006f89526c6a830c045f2409e.jpg

Block and head cleaned up, everything looks to be serviceable. Haven't taken a picture but the new head is on the old bottom end, I think I'll need a helper to hold the fucker down while I torque the head bolts. Stay tuned, more tomorrow.

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Another day, another scintillating* update. Super high precision tools were used to torque the head bolts down by angle:

IMG_20191227_125318.thumb.jpg.b848d2b60e4c4a0e554f90d9af581528.jpg

Today's state of play - engine back together, timing belt/valve cover/inlet manifold all on, cam and crank seals changed, turns over fine which is a relief:

IMG_20191228_190155.thumb.jpg.57b465ccca169f692090a26a08a73393.jpg

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Aaaaalright. If you cast your mind back to yesterday you'll no doubt remember how I thought I might have a hard time getting the engine/gearbox put back together without assistance.

IMG_20191230_151700.thumb.jpg.c723e218e8d97e53ca69d840d23a5d3f.jpg

Turns out I just needed practice. When I went to turn the engine over today it was locked solid - here we go again I thought. I had something in the back of my mind from another forum post that I read in the distant past when installing the torque converter, but I checked VIDA and nothing special was mentioned so I carried on. When the engine wouldn't turn, I located that post - an extract is supplied below:

- ** WHEN FITTING THE TORQUE CONVERTER TO THE GEARBOX, rotate it clockwise whilst pushing it into the gearbox. You should hear and feel it drop TWICE. When correctly seated the gap between the torque converter bolt lugs and the bell housing surface should be 13mm. If you do not seat the torque converter correctly, the gearbox will be damaged. This is documented in the Haynes manual. Make sure you never tilt the gearbox when refitting in such a way that it could slide out again. **

If you do not seat the torque converter correctly, the gearbox will be damaged.

IF YOU DON'T SEAT THE TORQUE CONVERTER CORRECTLY, THE GEARBOX WILL BE DAMAGED.

GEARBOX. DAMAGED. Fuuuuck.

After I had calmed down, I split the engine and box and seated the torque converter correctly. No damage was apparent and nothing cracked/went bang when we bolted it up the first time so who knows - I'm going to stick it back together and see what happens.

The net result of today is that I'm basically where I was yesterday but with a shiny new engine mount, the injectors fitted and a potentially borked gearbag. The old engine mount was cacked and not holding vacuum, so a Lemforder mount was bought - this appears to be OE, as it has very similar markings and seems like pretty much the same part.

IMG_20191230_134619.thumb.jpg.7231a035c49412bdc29340f9c956025d.jpg

 

After a trying day, I went out to contemplate my actions and their futility. I don't smoke anymore, but maybe that would help take the edge off this bastard ingrate twat of a Volvo. Or maybe I should start smoking crack like the customer service staff at Autodoc, who say this (incorrect) hose in its sealed, original packaging shows signs of having been fitted, so will not issue a refund:

IMG_20191230_130013.thumb.jpg.4864669dff24dc7172193c9087c5fc14.jpg

Oh well, at least there was a lovely sunset to enjoy.

IMG_20191230_163639.thumb.jpg.822b48347ae639ad7d121e9953f47479.jpg

More to follow over the next week or so.

IMG_20191230_181153.jpg

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Final update of the year - happy new year 'shiters!

I busted out some more specialist Volvo equipment* to do the balljoints:

IMG_20191231_124336.thumb.jpg.687d57b5c894c6e69cd3161f6ac1fe5a.jpg

Out with the old:

IMG_20191231_130151.thumb.jpg.22813b9026ab6825eee2873b8d20b6e4.jpg

In with the new:

IMG_20191231_132614.thumb.jpg.3aa49e188bf94362c599e4664eb70c13.jpg

I was feeling brave so I had a shot at getting the engine in. Will it go?

IMG_20191231_145026.thumb.jpg.cdfa0af81fdc2ad2f343bf8e0b0212d4.jpg

Will it fuck. The angle of dangle using either the trusty piece of seatbelt supplied with the engine or my high tech lifting rope was unsuitable. Either a load leveller or some more creative use of ropes/straps will be required to get the whole thing to lift up straight.

IMG_20191231_165247.thumb.jpg.be76ff11a0cb841be78ca4c905041cb7.jpg

This is where I left it because it's time for drinking now. So close!

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On 12/31/2019 at 6:24 PM, scdan4 said:

Dedicated Volvo fettling. Good work. 

Bet you were swearing when you sussed the TC seating!

Thanks! I wasn't best pleased - it's a good thing there was nobody within earshot.

Yesterday saw the purchase of a Clarke Strong Arm load leveller. Today the Volvo faced the Strong Arm of the law:

IMG_20200103_124059.thumb.jpg.836b19c6a99da1771563209619baad3c.jpg

This piece of machine mart's finest is fuckin' legit and is way nicer (and probably safer) to use than a rope or a piece of seatbelt. It's also red which gives the crane an extra 10 horsepowers.

Success!

IMG_20200103_140650.thumb.jpg.52b096226401cd97f69ef2851ddf524a.jpg

Just got a few things left to button up now, the suspension's mostly back together, ancillaries are on, fuel lines and steering (PITA) reconnected. Not much left to do, would be very surprised if I didn't make an attempt to start it tomorrow.

IMG_20200103_165235.thumb.jpg.af691b3190c7e44b8d46ac6a6b4b55b2.jpg

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Thanks for the kind words 'shiters. A pint would be gratefully received at this point but that means a lot coming from an esteemed chod fondler such as yourself. Today was the big day. I got everything ready to go and filled it up with oil and water (yeah water, in case it leaked everywhere - will flush and refill with Volvo coolant later). At first it wouldn't start - eventually I heard a dripping sound.

IMG_20200104_144531.thumb.jpg.4b19ffd2ad8ffeac36b383ee90e60db2.jpg

Turns out it was pissing diesel everywhere from one of the injector lines:

IMG_20200104_145145.thumb.jpg.28e3d34f957112802865674aee87d63c.jpg

This filled all of the injector wells and made its way along the freshly cleaned engine before dripping all down the timing belt end of the engine. Ugh:

IMG_20200104_144543.thumb.jpg.ab092032fbc1e6e5f7e83d59c129d521.jpg

Once I had that nipped up, this happened:

Success!

IMG_20200104_145451.thumb.jpg.38006b002a70cc0c1f3a1b0aba700819.jpg

The idle did settle down a bit but two of the injectors need to be coded in, which annoyingly I can't do with my hooky VIDA clone.

I took it for a quick drive:

Sorry for the shit quality of the video, my phone's taken this opportunity to start playing silly buggers as well. I reckon my cars/phones/whatever plot together to all go wrong at the same time. So - how is it? Certainly a lot better than before, but it's still down on power. Most of the injector seals are leaking (I could see bubbles in the diesel sat around them), so I either need to think about a bodge like adding a double thickness washer or replacing the £25 per injector clamps/bolts which are single use. There's so much single use stuff on this car, it takes the piss!

During the drive it decided to piss diesel everywhere again and created quite the smokescreen - I was hoping it was going to catch fire when I pulled up but sadly not:

IMG_20200104_164005.thumb.jpg.20b1ce7b607fd0ad245338ba3734e906.jpgIMG_20200104_164037.thumb.jpg.e35beffdce35a66e6c117c98b4a3d82c.jpgIMG_20200104_164051.thumb.jpg.3ae04db06e70764d8bb42820ab389acc.jpg

I don't think you can really see the smoke in these photos so you'll just have to imagine it, along with a pungent aroma of diesel.

IMG_20200104_161253.thumb.jpg.43980744ebe6fde12b3a2a7f7f0707a3.jpgIMG_20200104_161312.thumb.jpg.03c89f64c38fc4ccc2e1bb665cd73603.jpg

What's next? Well, fault codes galore, along with getting the injectors sealed. I might try the original (slide hammered) injectors to see if they work, which would avoid having to go to a specialist to get them coded. Also the DPF needs a regen, which I might do to see if that helps. I was sorta hoping everything would be fine today but that was never going to happen with this car was it!

 

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Yes it’s still fucked but an excellent result, your tenacity and drive to fix this ungrateful fucker has been an inspiration.

I remember when this was advertised considering buying it, had that been the case I doubt I would have ever managed to get it running, it clearly found the correct owner.

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Well done on getting the bitch running. ¬†The rest is just ‚Äėfettling now‚Äô.

PITA all of this ‚Äėcomponent coding‚Äô ¬†shiz. ¬† As for Single Use fittings, FFS, like sealed for life, just another non required invention.

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Pull the injectors back out and clean the seating faces in the head with a £15 tool from eBay....

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F262161503741

Then, refit with new copper washers and make sure the pipes from the fuel rail are done up properly tight. You’re supposed to use new pipes each time but I’ve reused them two or three times in the past on D5s and not had any issue.

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Thanks @NorthernMonkey, I actually already had that tool in my eBay basket when you posted the link! I've already used new washers but possibly haven't cleaned the seats up enough, have got another set of washers ordered as well. I read somewhere about being able to bend the clamps to get a bit more force on the injector - do you have any experience with this?

Re. fixing it, I don't know how inspirational it is really. I should've broken it, this whole endeavour hasn't really made financial sense but meh. It just pisses me off when I can't fix something, and I felt like I was too far in once I'd bought the new engine.

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Right then, had a bit of a poke at this today in between helping with an E36 engine swap.

These are the codes that have stuck now that the dust has settled:

IMG_20200105_152824.thumb.jpg.7b1e8aaf844beddfa74e5b5351730d5f.jpg

So: the DPF needs a regen, but it can't do that without the EGR valve, which is faulty. I ended up cleaning and fitting the EGR valve off the donor engine, which is not doing anything. I tried to actuate the one fitted on the car and it didn't make any noise, also its position sensor doesn't report any change when it's actuated so it's definitely goosed. I hooked up the valve from the original engine which is working fine -should've fitted that in the first place really.

IMG_20200105_151751.thumb.jpg.9f8ed6deeaa9a7283bb048f16f4a81ec.jpg

Plan is next weekend to clean up and fit the old, working EGR valve, sort the leaking injectors and force a DPF regen which will hopefully see us out of limp mode and into turgid mode with all 163 raging Swedish ponies available for propulsion purposes. This isn't looking too bad now and I think I can see the light at the end of the tunnel - or maybe it's just a train.

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45 minutes ago, Tepper said:

Right then, had a bit of a poke at this today in between helping with an E36 engine swap.

These are the codes that have stuck now that the dust has settled:

IMG_20200105_152824.thumb.jpg.7b1e8aaf844beddfa74e5b5351730d5f.jpg

So: the DPF needs a regen, but it can't do that without the EGR valve, which is faulty. I ended up cleaning and fitting the EGR valve off the donor engine, which is not doing anything. I tried to actuate the one fitted on the car and it didn't make any noise, also its position sensor doesn't report any change when it's actuated so it's definitely goosed. I hooked up the valve from the original engine which is working fine -should've fitted that in the first place really.

IMG_20200105_151751.thumb.jpg.9f8ed6deeaa9a7283bb048f16f4a81ec.jpg

Plan is next weekend to clean up and fit the old, working EGR valve, sort the leaking injectors and force a DPF regen which will hopefully see us out of limp mode and into turgid mode with all 163 raging Swedish ponies available for propulsion purposes. This isn't looking too bad now and I think I can see the light at the end of the tunnel - or maybe it's just a train.

I think your problem is not having a heavy enough hammer to use. A soft blow hammer never did anyone any good.

well done on persevering with this and posting all the trials and tribulations. 

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On 1/5/2020 at 6:48 PM, Jenson Velcro said:

I think your problem is not having a heavy enough hammer to use. A soft blow hammer never did anyone any good.

well done on persevering with this and posting all the trials and tribulations. 

Thanks, hopefully posting it will help someone else dealing with the same thing, or at least in making the decision to just bridge the thing!

Today was EGR time. I was hoping I'd be able to just change the actuator without having to remove the EGR valve but sadly that was just wishful thinking. I couldn't see a way to remove the motor arm from the spindle of the valve and I didn't want to damage the working EGR valve, so away we went.

IMG_20200111_151240.thumb.jpg.d7cf6057c791a5b6b9fae1d641f4626e.jpg

The way I chose to do this was remove the airbox and HP fuel pump, then remove the valve leaving the cooler in situ. This saved me having to drain the coolant and wrestle with the weird little V-band/jubilee clip hybrid attaching the exhaust manifold flex pipe to the cooler. Access to some of the bolts was a bit of a pain. I deployed cable ties to make another Volvo tool:

IMG_20200111_151249.thumb.jpg.47e62ab59a5de48ee5b41a4c4810676e.jpg

This is the bit inside the valve that I couldn't figure out how to split:

IMG_20200111_171058.thumb.jpg.4d2cbdbc055e955cb10918ef2cb40cd9.jpg

Anyway, the result of this is the car is now out of limp home mode. That's right: full powah. Finally. The car's driving nicely and I had a chance to test out the stereo which has a pleasing ability to blast out choonz - it is as good as everyone says it is. The DPF error was cleared just by resetting the counter, I did this rather than a regen as the differential pressure readings were low. If it comes back I'll do a regen but for now, we're all good. All I need to do now is reseal the injectors and fit all the covers, undertrays etc then it should be ready for an MOT!

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