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Peter C

2007 Volvo V70 D5 2.4 automatic - SOLD - New Owner Updates

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On 7/31/2019 at 10:15 PM, Dead_E23 said:

I'm seeing grey 'no entry sign' icons instead of catastrophic engine malady pics, so whatever that engine has might be contagious.

Is there an easy way to add multiple pictures from google photos? I tried copying the URLs but it clearly didn't work.

Thanks for the offer of the engine Lankytim but as NorthernMonkey says, the earlier engines aren't interchangeable which is a pain as there seem to be plenty of them about.

I went down to my preferred local scrapyard today and agreed to buy a complete engine from a V70 that had suffered a fire in the fusebox. The engine looks largely unscathed, the plastic injector cover is melted slightly but it doesn't look too bad. The yard have agreed that they'll refund me if the engine turns out to be no good, it's being delivered on Wednesday. Fingers crossed! I might make a start on removing the old engine over the weekend if the lift's free and if I can be arsed.

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I reckon the pictures might not be showing due to permissions. Are they in your Google photos?  I don't remember seeing a way of making those public.

I'd have a think about whether it'll be easier to swap heads rather than engines. I researched doing an engine swap on my V70 and it seems the way to do it is by unbolting the whole front subframe and lifting the body off, which probably wouldn't be too bad with a lift but I think you may still need to pair the injectors with your ECU before it'll run. Whichever route you choose I'd imagine you'll want to fit a fresh cam belt, which makes the head swap sound less onerous, although I suspect there would be a lot of dismantling involved either way.

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Pictures should hopefully be fixed. Yep, that does seem to be the process for changing the engine but I've got the lift and a ridiculously large engine crane that will happily lift cars so we should be alright. I'm going with the complete engine for cost reasons, the scrapyard engine was less than a reconditioned head and it means I don't have to piss about with a gasket kit, injector seals etc. I may live to regret this but there's only one way to find out.

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Well done on persevering to find the issue.   Original owner can breathe a sigh of relief that he didn't let the car go for knock down money when the fix was a split hose.  Buyer shrugs, some you win, some you loose.

the coincidental, problem started just after re-fuelling was a classic red herring after all.

like the op said, what causes it, any idea ?

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11 hours ago, Dead_E23 said:

What has actually happened there?  I can see a couple of the followers appear chewed up, but can't see what caused it.  Would be interesting to see if those valves are bent - maybe the engine ingested something.

It's hard to see, but most of the inlet lifter bores have cracked in half, allowing the lifters and in turn the rockers more or less free movement. All of the rockers should be straight in the bigger pictures, where they're on the piss that's one where the lifter bore is smashed, then if you look at the close-ups you can just about see the lifters hanging out of what's left of their bores. In terms of the root cause, I don't actually know. I think this is relatively common on these Euro 4 D5 engines, it can definitely happen after some kind of timing belt failure but that doesn't appear to have happened on this car. I'd be very interested to know what the cause is. The thing that intrigues me is that if it's a random failure, surely you'd have one go, rather than 3 or 4 at the same time.

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I'm not familiar with the internals of this engine.  From the pics, the cams look to be gear driven.  What goes on below that, belt or chain ?

has something like a tensioner let go, resulting in timing slip and valve to piston contact which then plays out as broken timing gear?

Balc sludge causing a restricted oil flow and partial seizure to the followers ?

cause and effect can be very difficult sometimes.  Back when I was 16 I had a Honda SS50 Sports Ped.  Piston kept partially seizing and busting the rings.  Local Honda dealer bored it, new piston about three times before my Dad said 'enough is enough' and got his money back on the basis they could not fix the problem.   I bough a couple of none running Honda 50's, stripped the engines down, built them back together and got them running.  Once  I'd worked out what I was doing I got stuck into the SS50.  When I removed the exhaust, it rattled.  I though that isn't right, showed my Dad, he concluded a loose baffle.   The loose baffle was blocking the exhaust, causing pressure build up, poor performance and excessive combustion chamber heat leading to partial seizure.  I put a new exhaust on it, the bore was OK so I popped in anotherbpiston and rings, the bike flew.  Dealer had been at it 3  times over  6 months and failed to fix it.   Kept blaming me for riding it flat out, funny that, all my mates rode their bikes flat out and theirs didn't go bang.  I still consider that episode to be one of life's major lessons in 'cause and effect thinking' but it can be very hard to map out the chain of events.

K Series, one day down the scrappy I occassioned on a brand new rad in a Rover 414.  Knowing I had a 414 on the fleet with a crumbling rad, I had that.  When the crubling rad started to leak, I swopped over the unit from the scrappy.  I was in a hurry and failed to check the fan on the scrappy new unit.  The fekker was seized, so it popped the fuse, car got a bit warm, nipped the elastomer gasket leading to oil in the water.  Was my own fault for not checking the fan on the replacement unit or swoppingbkver for the fan on 'our car'.   Chances are the car in the scrappy had been given a new rad due to overheating (fan) and may well have been in the yard due to HGF.  I merely transferred their problem to me.  To this day, I still can't believe I didn't check that fan.  

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In adjacent cylinders too.  I wonder if a bit of oil or water got into the cylinder and hydraulic-ed them, then subsequently got pumped out so there's nothing to see. Maybe there was a bit of oil sitting in the pipes from the turbo or something. Feasible?

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6 hours ago, Dead_E23 said:

In adjacent cylinders too.  I wonder if a bit of oil or water got into the cylinder and hydraulic-ed them, then subsequently got pumped out so there's nothing to see. Maybe there was a bit of oil sitting in the pipes from the turbo or something. Feasible?

The truth is I don't know! I had another look and I think all of the inlet lifter bores are cracked but not all of the rockers are visibly wonky. Everything else looks fine, timing belt/tensioners look fine, no (excessive) oil in the boost pipework. All of the reports of this problem I've been able to find either cite a timing belt failure or don't identify any cause. It seems that it's a relatively common problem as there's a notable absence of Euro 4 D5 engines/heads for sale, I've seen a few bottom ends kicking about and the complete engines are relatively expensive, unlike the older D5s.

Between 2 E's for the price of 36 I managed to get a fair bit of the prep done for the engine removal, if I get a full day on it tomorrow I reckon I'll be able to have the old one out. Seems to be reasonably well thought out/put together so far.

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7 hours ago, Isaac Hunt said:

I'm not familiar with the internals of this engine.  From the pics, the cams look to be gear driven.  What goes on below that, belt or chain ?

Belt to the inlet cam, gear drive from inlet to exhaust.

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A slightly melted engine has arrived. None of the important bits appear melted, I was worried the rocker cover/manifold would be bollocksed which would mean pulling injectors but fortunately it seems OK. I should be able to swap all the non-melted bits from the old engine with a bit of luck. As expected, the engine was removed using the fast, snippy method, so I'll have to swap the wiring loom over from the old lump as well. I also managed to free the remaining TRE after a bit of a battle, luckily it came off alright in the end avoiding the need for a new TRE/tracking. I'm away this weekend but will crack on with the swap next week/weekend.

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Out it comes! Wasn't too bad in the end apart from me forgetting to disconnect the steering column like a twat and also the exhaust bracket/brake pipe that is attached to the subframe that Volvo thought it would be funny to leave out of the manual. Had to use the approved Volvo tool (AKA a ratchet strap - seriously, that's what the manual says) to shift the lower arms, still needed a balljoint splitter to crack them off. On the balljoints one of the boots is torn and the other has a bit of play so they'll be getting changed as well. I'm also changing the aux belt, tensioners and alternator overrun pulley to hopefully prevent that shitting itself and taking out the cambelt in future. I was hoping to press the bearings out of the pulleys but they appear well and truly glued in there, so I'll just fit new rollers. Stay tuned for another thrilling* instalment!

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Great work here, very interesting. There’s a guy on the Volvo FB group that makes and sells a special guard that bolts on to the engine block behind the aux belt bottom pulley that protects the cam belt if the aux belt should ever break. Looks a decent bit of kit. 

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Latest update: engine has been split from the gearbox/subframe, I couldn't decide whether to split the engine/gearbox from the subframe then separate them, hopefully it won't be too much of a pain in the arse to mate them back up with the gearbox still in the subframe. I didn't get as much done as I would've liked yesterday because of a snapped bolt in the turbot, which was my own stupid fault. I welded a nut onto it but it just snapped again, tried drilling it out but snapped a bloody drill bit in it so binned it off and will just use the turbo off the old engine which of course means I need more gaskets. Oh well. Other than that, I've just been swapping stuff across from the old engine - this would be much quicker if they hadn't chopped all the hoses when it was removed. One of the glow plugs on the new engine was damaged and another was testing out of spec, so I swapped them for good ones from the old engine, fortunately without snappage. Also found the inlet pipework ridiculously clogged, the EGR valve was even worse so spent ages scraping out all the horrible black mess. Will seriously consider an EGR delete/remap if this ends up sticking around.

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And while we’re on the subject, check the small (about the size of a 2p) core plug behind the flywheel.

The earlier ones used to be metal with a black plastic coating which in time softens with resulting catastrophic oil loss.

The later ones should be made entirely of steel and as a result are good for life...yours being an 07 should have this later one but I’ve come across the earlier ones on D5s as late as 06 before now so it’s worth checking.

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20 hours ago, Dead_E23 said:

Whilst you have engine and gearbox apart, consider getting a replacement concentric clutch slave cylinder for it,  They leak and eventually fail completely, and replacing them is a big job unless you have everything in bits already.

It's an auto, so no need, but thanks for the heads up.

19 hours ago, NorthernMonkey said:

And while we’re on the subject, check the small (about the size of a 2p) core plug behind the flywheel.

The earlier ones used to be metal with a black plastic coating which in time softens with resulting catastrophic oil loss.

The later ones should be made entirely of steel and as a result are good for life...yours being an 07 should have this later one but I’ve come across the earlier ones on D5s as late as 06 before now so it’s worth checking.

I read about this earlier today, core plug has been ordered along with the rear crankshaft oil seal and transmission oil pump seal but again, thanks for the info.

While I was working on it today I found something more than slightly unwelcome. What's this?

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You bastard. Cracked manifold, likely from rough handling or when someone pulled the fuel rail off in the scrapyard. This means injectors out, new seals etc - deep joy. In a way I'm glad I spotted it now rather than having to chase it as a fault later - it wasn't easy to see, it was only obviously cracked with force applied to the manifold.

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So that's yet more parts to order and so far, only one of the injectors has come out. The rest are soaking in PlusGas, I'll have to wait and see but if not I can just use the puller again. One step forward, two steps back but hopefully we'll get there eventually.

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I've thought about it, I probably would've done better from a money point of view breaking it when I realised the engine was cacked but where's the fun* in that?

Got the injectors out today mainly by using a pry bar against the cracked manifold. Only one wouldn't play ball, so had to use the puller again. Between the two sets of injectors I have at least 5 that haven't been subjected to slide hammering, so we should be alright there. Got the injector washers out using a handy trick from YouTube, was about to take off the rocker cover when I got to this:

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The artist formerly known as a Torx screw. I tried hammering various bits in but it wasn't having any of it, so I started to smash away the manifold to hopefully get better access. To be continued.

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This happened:

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Which after a bit more hammering allowed this:

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Aside from the dirty ports (thanks EGR) it all looks pretty good in there, all rockers correct and present and quite clean as well. The non-damaged manifold has been refitted with a new gasket, bolts torqued to spec. More to come next week.

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Injectors back in with new washers, I've only used injectors that haven't been slide hammered so hopefully they'll be alright. Might have to code them but will cross that bridge when I come to it! Wiring loom swapped over, oil filter changed, all fuel lines back on - starting to look a bit more complete now:

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I was thinking about stripping the turbo down to clean the VNT mechanism, so I had a practice on the spare with the broken stud. Could I shift the exhaust housing from the CHRA? Could I fuck. So I just filled the good turbo with oven cleaner and moved the VNT lever back and forth, it wasn't too sticky before but now it's nice and free - figured I may as well while it's all accessible. I also bit the bullet and ordered a front engine mount - I had a feeling it was goosed but confirmed it by applying a vacuum, which didn't hold.

Turbo back on, balljoints and rear crank seal/transmission oil seal to do tomorrow, might even get as far as getting the engine and gearbox back together.

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Remember how smoothly everything was going up to now? Today I got the turbo back on, whipped off the torque converter and flex plate then changed the crank seal. So far so good. Wait a second... didn't the engine turn for more than half a revolution earlier this morning?

Rage.jpg

 

Yep, engine's locked somehow. Will turn half a turn then hits something. The timing looks fine, and it turned over fine by hand after I did the timing belt. I can't check it 100% because I can't turn the camshaft to the mark but the mark on the camshaft is exactly 180 degrees out from the crank mark, so with another turn of the crank it should line up. I took the rocker cover back off and nothing looks amiss in there. My best guess at the moment is that something has fallen into one of the cylinders, perhaps dislodged when using the impact gun to undo the flex plate. Not amused, more investigation to follow tomorrow.

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Right then. I had a poke at this today with my borescope and to be honest, didn't get very far. I had a look down the injector holes into the cylinders and didn't see anything too worrying - one cylinder had a chunk of carbon in it from the manifold but I'm not too worried about that, it's also not at TDC when the engine locks up:

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The borescope's a bit shite, the carbon is at the bottom of the picture. The circle in the middle is the domed combustion chamber in the crown of the piston.

At the moment, I'm fairly sure it's locking up on the bottom end because the tension of the cambelt isn't changing - if it were the top end, I'd expect to see it lose/gain tension when it locked up. I tried taking the oil level sensor out to have a look with the borescope but I couldn't see anything because of the baffle plate. I'm not too sure what to do next, I'm thinking I might take the sump off and go in that way - it would allow me to do a fair bit of troubleshooting without having to spend £££ on a head gasket set. Any suggestions would be more than welcome!

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You have the patience of a saint with this car,it's worth removing the inlet manifold and looking down at the valves with your scope to see if anything has fallen in holding a valve open,if this were the case you would probably get 300 degrees+. Crank rotation before it locked up but its worth a look,hope it's not too serious,you need some luck with this car.

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