Jump to content
Peter C

2007 Volvo V70 D5 2.4 automatic - SOLD - New Owner Updates

Recommended Posts

We are all hoping for an easy fix.


(And I'm slightly jealous that I didn't have the time, bravery, transport, need or location for what looked like a right bargain assuming it can be fixed for pocket money).

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks again for all the suggestions and words of encouragement, I've got my fingers crossed as it's a top quality barge that deserves to live. I'll be going through the suggestions/thoughts on this thread at the weekend as that's the only time I get to play with cars. Good points made about the MAF and the problems starting after a full tank of fuel - if the car runs properly while doing the diesel purge then that would point the finger at bad fuel, strainer or something like that.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I doubt it. The misfueling incident took place on the 25th of December and the engine never got to run on the wrong fuel. We drained most of the unleaded within 24 hours of the incident and the car was running just fine for the next two months.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I doubt it too. Common rail pumps develop a lot of pressure and work to close tolerances. A misfuel would either have caused it to seize (which it hasn't) or caused wear inside so it couldn't generate enough pressure in the fuel rail, and something like that would be more evident when it's going slowly rather than running like the clappers - so I would expect starting problems more than restricted revs. I think VIDA/DICE will reveal the answer.

Incidentally, the pumps on D5s are impressive looking things; I thought it looked more like something aviation-related than out of a car.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Picked up a ropey £20 laptop and an eBay DiCE clone and set to work, install was a bit of a pain but got there in the end after wiping the laptop to upgrade from Win7 home premium to professional. Laptop also included a DVD, Bride Wars - xtra bonus winnar. Shame the DVD drive doesn't work.


Anyway, here are the codes:



I cleared them, but annoyingly the battery was too flat to start the car so have left it on charge and will see what's going on tomorrow. At least some of the MAF codes I assume are from when we unplugged it the other day, not sure about the rest. I know someone suggested it could be an ABS/traction control fault, which is looking like a possibility given the VSS-related code. More tinkering required tomorrow.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Where are you? Try my MAF if you want as long as it isn’t killed....my xc90 is running well!

I'm in Reading. Thanks very much for the offer, I've got a family friend down the road who has a V70 D5 so I'll probably give that a go first but it's much appreciated anyway.


I assume the red ones are current and amber historic ?

I'm not sure, I'm still getting my head round Vida but that seems likely. I wonder the VSS codes could've been thrown when the car was being towed?


Fingers crossed for tomorrow.


Did you get the key and your bank thingy?

Cheers! Not yet, was the address changed? I can pop down the road to check if needed. Did you find out about the mystery key in the armrest?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

It'll be interesting to hear whether deleting the codes has returned it to full power (it used to on mine) and which of them reappear after a drive.  Did you discover the screen that shows how many times it has seen each code and when?   


VIDA even contains the workshop manuals; it's rather an impressive bit of software.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a bit of time to play with this today - not really too much further with it if I'm honest. I was going to do a compression test but I didn't have a socket that would work to get the glow plugs out. The faults that have returned are MAF signal too high and also boost pressure low, which to me suggests some kind of leak perhaps. I think I'll need to do a smoke or pressure test on the inlet system to see what's causing it, I didn't spot anything obvious when I checked it over.


I ran actuator tests on the swirl flap mechanism and the VNT actuator, both seemed to be moving freely and doing what they're supposed to do. The EGR valve also appears to be behaving itself. I also logged a few bits of data, I'm fairly new to this but from looking at the logs I think the MAF is fine as it seems to be giving sensible readings, so I think the fault code for it is to do with the fact that the engine's seeing too much air, possibly due to a leak somewhere. The only weird thing that I spotted in the logs is that the inlet air temperature at the MAF seems to increase with RPM/throttle position, although I have no idea if this is significant. Logs below:










The other thing I noticed was what looked like a leaking injector seal on cyl 3 - it's hard to tell, I think there's some noise coming from it but it's hard to hear it over the noise of the engine. Pictures of cyl 3 and cyl 2 for comparison:






The injector test didn't show up anything particularly concerning either, from what I understand they're all just about in spec:




Not too sure what's going on with it at the moment, I think my next steps will be to change the injector seal and then try to rig up a pressure or smoke test for the inlet system if that doesn't sort it. That and try running it on diesel purge to rule out faulty fuel - I'd have done that today but I'm still waiting for a filter to arrive

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Leaking injector seals won't cause it any running problems,a compression check is not needed,if it had low compression it would struggle to start, and it wouldn't cause the engine not to rev,worth checking for pressure from the exhaust pipe when trying to rev it up,if it starts to make a hissing noise or there is not much pressure it could have a blocked,cat,pdf,exhaust box,I've been caught out a few times with similar symptoms.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Leaking injector seals won't cause it any running problems,a compression check is not needed,if it had low compression it would struggle to start, and it wouldn't cause the engine not to rev,worth checking for pressure from the exhaust pipe when trying to rev it up,if it starts to make a hissing noise or there is not much pressure it could have a blocked,cat,pdf,exhaust box,I've been caught out a few times with similar symptoms.

Good to know - I did wonder whether it would cause any running issues but I figured it needs doing anyway, but I might hold off now until I know whether I can get it running properly. Exhaust is also a good suggestion, everything seems normal to me and the DPF differential pressure sensor readings are fine, but it's probably worth taking the downpipe off the turbo to see if that makes any difference if I can't figure anything else out.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

You will only need to loosen the down pipe from the turbo,not a 5 minute job but anything that doesn't cost much is worth trying before you start throwing money at it,if the injector seals have been leaking there will be oily shit around where the injectors go into the engine,the d5 is not prone to seals leaking though,it's also worth checking the inlet manifold around the egr area because it can clog up with crap and the engin can't breathe properly.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Try listening to that injector by using a bit of pipe as a stethoscope.  Doesn't look too bad to me though.   


When you've got the undertray off, it might be worth examining the turbo pipe that comes under the engine for leaks, such as might result from being clouted on a speed bump or similar.  I took the pipe off mine to see if it was full of oil when I was attempting to find why it was using it; I remember it was an annoyingly fiddly job, but dropping the exhaust looked much harder and the inlet side was so clean I convinced myself I didn't need to.   I also had a look at the turbo oil feed pipe to make sure it wasn't blocked and getting that to seal again was a right ordeal.


ETA: EGR might be a good call - not difficult to remove either!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Leaking injector seals won't cause it any running problems

Agreed here, my 2.2dci was blowing on 2 injectors so much it had clag from them on cold morning, and it blew the oil that was pissing out of the rocker cover about. Drove fine, I didn't notice for ages and did another 2 months when I did!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know if the Volvo D5 engine has a PCV system?.....on the petrol turbo's, the catch can for the crankcase oil vapour is under the inlet manifold.

This gets clogged up, as does the pipework going into it.

I need to do this on my T5.


If the D5 engines DO have this set up, it would be worth a look?


I am not familiar with the D5 variant, so it might not have that set up.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By clayts450
      With the recent addition of the 420 to the fleet it's high time I started a project thread devoted to all four Rovers.
      I've done some half-hearted attempts in the past, then done a few updates on the News 24 as and when I remembered.
      Today will be an intro to the fleet only with a little potted history about things wot I've done, and then I'll aim to be more blog-like in my approach to my skillful* fettling.
      So without further ado, welcome to the fleet.
      2004 Streetwise S - purchased May 2017

      It was a toss up between this and a top spec K11 Micra, but this won the day. This car marked my return behind the wheel after almost 18 years and thus was a monumental step forward for me.
      I'd given up driving mainly because public transport is so good in Nottingham but when my parents relocated to Newmarket from St Albans, the train journey to Suffolk was ridiculously long-winded and incorporated 55 minute waits at Cambridge to catch the connecting train to Newmarket, so enough was enough.
      Purchased from a shady man in East Leake ('which car ?' when I rang up) who was dealing from his front garden, this Streetwise stole my heart from day one. Annoyingly I missed out on getting it for £250 when this guy bought it and flipped it, and span a tale of a part exchange in Manchester where his old car lot had been. I wanted to call bullshit, but the price was right, £420 exchanged hands, and this came home with me.
      There were some issues, notably no horn nor rear fog lights (fucked Pektron BCU) but that aside, this car has wanted nothing other than consumables (tyres, exhaust, brake pads) and has never FTP (apart from user error - leaving the boot open and the dashcam on drained the battery on two occasions). The willing puppy and commutawagon, until recently this has always been my goto car, which I can always rely upon.
      It will continue to serve as commutawagon, not least due to its petiteness which ensures parking is easy, and its miserly fuel sipping.
    • By Zelandeth
      Well I've been meaning to sign up here in forever, but kept forgetting. Thanks to someone over on another forum I frequent poking me about it recently the subject was forced back into my very brief attention span for long enough to get me to act on the instruction.

      I figure that my little varied fleet might bring you lot some amusement...

      So...we've got:

      1993 Lada Riva 1.5E Estate (now fuel injected, as I reckon the later cars should have been from the factory...).
      1989 Saab 900i Automatic.
      1987 Skoda 120LX 21st Anniversary Special Edition.
      1985 Sinclair C5.
      2009 Peugeot 107 Verve.

      Now getting the photos together has taken me far longer than I'd expected...so you're gonna get a couple of photos of each car for now, and I'll come back with some more information tomorrow when I've got a bit more time...

      Firstly...The Lada. Before anyone asks - in response to the single question I get asked about this car: No, it is not for sale. Took me 13 years and my father's inheritance to find the thing.

      Yes, it's got the usual rusty wings...Hoping that will be resolved in the next couple of months.

      Next, a proper old Saab. One of the very last 8 valve cars apparently, and all the better for it. I've driven two 16v autos and they were horrible - the auto box works sooooo much better with the torque curve of the 8 valve engine. Just wish it had an overdrive for motorway cruising...

      Next up a *real* Skoda...back when they put the engine where it belongs, right out the back. In the best possible colour of course...eye-searingly bright orange.

      Seat covers have been added since that photo was taken as it suffers from the usual rotting seat cloth problem that affects virtually all Estelles.

      Then we have possibly the world's scruffiest Sinclair C5...

      Realised when looking for this that I really need to get some more photos of the thing...I use it often enough after all! We have a dog who's half husky, so this is a really good way of getting him some exercise.

      Finally - again, I really need to take more photos of - we have the little Pug 107.

      Included for the sake of variety even if it's a bit mainstream! First (and probably to be the only) new car I've bought, and has been a cracking little motor and has asked for very little in return for putting up with nearly three years of Oxford-Milton Keynes commuter traffic, before finally escaping that fate when my housemate moved to a new job. Now it doesn't do many miles and is my default car for "when I've managed to break everything else."

      I'll fill in some more details tomorrow - I warn you though that I do tend to ramble...

    • By TheDoctor
      As you may have read in the 'Can we save this?' thread, the answer was 'Yes we can!'
      Someone on this forum who wishes to remain nameless, fronted the cash to rescue this little Mazda from certain doom at the hands of a banger racer. I've taken custody of the car, but will make sure they get their money back as soon as is physically possible.
      Perhaps once it's running right, I'll look at some sort of roffle to find it a new home and pay back what it owes me and them.
      Although it had been sitting 5 years or so, it went through an MOT, so that's a good start.
      Known faults.
      - Alternator is kaput. Shouldn't be too hard to find a refurbished one. Presume battery knackered too.
      - Wheel bearing grumbling. 
      - Running like crap. Will replace fuel and vacuum pipes and add fuel filter. Then perhaps a carb strip down and rebuild. Aisan 980 carb as far as i know, same as the Toyota was,
      - Flat tyre. 
      It's currently sitting outside with a flat battery and no fuel, so that's not a good start!
      As I have very little talent, time or money, and suggestions / help greatly appreciated.
      These are the pictures I have so far - looks good but it's a lot more dull in real life...

    • By dozeydustman
      Mrs Dustman has a dash cam she wants me to fit to her '99 frog face Corolla. It came with a hard wire kit as opposed to the usual fag lighter lead, so I might as well make a decent* job of it and hide the wiring completely. Trouble is I can't remember how I got the radio pod out when I fitted the DAB unit she now has. I've also got a few dash illumination bulbs to change so I might as well do it all in one hit while it's a sunny afternoon.
      A bit of googling comes up with the US spec dash which appears to be different from the European model, or the 2002-on model. I seem to remember spudging out the dash vents to access some bolts/rivets.
      Failing that, is there an easier place to get a switched live from (besides the radio) that doesn't involve destroying the car's interior?
  • Create New...