Ask a Shiter

[DSdriver]

My dad is forever moaning about how shit his drill bits are, and saying that he's definitely going to buy some decent ones.

He's been threatening to buy decent ones for at least 7 years now, so I am going to buy him some.

 

I know nothing about drill bits. Please can someone suggest some good bits, preferably available from Screwfix, toolstation, or online. Mostly used for metal, sometimes wood. If i need to buy 2 sets or whatever then fine.

 

Cheers

I always use cobalt drills, the titanium coated type don't stand up to the abuse I give them. 

If drilling stainless steel use the slowest possible speed and some cutting fluid or a lot of water to keep the item cool.

[DodgeRover]

Drilling speed is a major factor as is sharpness, too many people just go as fast as possible and blue the bit.

Don't buy the cheapest wood drills they are made of the softest metal and will literally twist like cooked pasta in the smaller sizes. Axminster tools are good - otherwise Beal workshop supplies had loads of wood bits on special,I tend to use spade type bits for speed on anything bigger than 10mm a worm bit usually gives a nicer finish though.

 

I might visit Lidl and look at the sharpeners later.

[lexi]

Phone question guys. I have an almost new iPhone 4s Global.  It was a Nephews in NZ and locked to EE.  It got lost and reported missing, probably to get a new phone. I want to go Vodaphone with Sim only.  Can't go back for a code to EE, so can it be unlocked by a shop or whizz kid? Not worth while?

 

 Can a mod shift this if in wrong place?  Cheers

[sierraman]

I could do with some decent drill bits. Are cobalt essential for drilling hardened metal?

 

Is sharpeness the key over and above what it’s coated with?

[Richard]

I could do with some decent drill bits. Are cobalt essential for drilling hardened metal?

 

Is sharpeness the key over and above what it’s coated with?

Sharpness is the key to cutting, material/treatment is the key to maintaining sharpness.

[SiC]

Is this safe/acceptable? I.e. on ramps one side.

 

 

Give it a wobble and it seems stable, but unsure if I'm missing something obviously dangerous. I can't find anything on line to say it's not ok.

[DodgeRover]

Is this safe/acceptable? I.e. on ramps one side.

 

 

Give it a wobble and it seems stable, but unsure if I'm missing something obviously dangerous. I can't find anything on line to say it's not ok.

Would have no issues with that other than putting chocks under the wheels at the other side

[sierraman]

Sharpness is the key to cutting, material/treatment is the key to maintaining sharpness.

So providing the bit is sharp you could use some regular HSS bits and use the drill sharpener to keep them keen?

[Dave_Q]

Phone question guys. I have an almost new iPhone 4s Global. It was a Nephews in NZ and locked to EE. It got lost and reported missing, probably to get a new phone. I want to go Vodaphone with Sim only. Can't go back for a code to EE, so can it be unlocked by a shop or whizz kid? Not worth while?

 

Can a mod shift this if in wrong place? Cheers

Probably not worthwhile, if reported stolen in NZ it *theoretically* will also be here and if unlocked would not get a signal due to being blacklisted.

 

Check the serial number on here before spending anything.

 

https://imei24.com/blacklist_check

[SiC]

Would have no issues with that other than putting chocks under the wheels at the other side

Yeah chocked on the other side. I wasn't 100% so I also stuffed a (probably rotten) wood post offcuts down the ramp too.

[DodgeRover]

If you can find somewhere solid to jack to lift one end then spinning one of the ramps round 180 degrees would do away with the need for those posts

[doug]

I could do with some decent drill bits. Are cobalt essential for drilling hardened metal?

 

Is sharpeness the key over and above what it’s coated with?

Cobalt drills for hardened metal. In fact better for everything really. What you drilling? 

[sierraman]

I’m looking for something to have handy for when* I snap a hardened bolt.

[Guest Hooli]

 What you drilling? 

 

Holes

[davehedgehog31]

Do any central Scotland shiters have a hydraulic press and wouldn't mind pressing in a front wheel bearing for me?

 

It's the Citroen C1, the NSF is groaning.a

 

I don't even have the bearing yet, so it won't be until this weekend or next likely.

[Exiled_Tat_Gatherer]

Holes

 

 

I actually expected a 'your mum' - there........ 

[Tickman]

Yeah chocked on the other side. I wasn't 100% so I also stuffed a (probably rotten) wood post offcuts down the ramp too.

If you are still uncomfortable about being under it I have put ratchet straps round the wheels through the ramps before and they inspire confidence.

[dozeydustman]

Alternator terminals.

 

When I replaced the alternator in the Saab just before xmas I removed a 2 terminal one, and replaced it with an identical unit but fitted with 3 terminals. (1.9 Diesel Denso type). The main B+ terminal was fitted as before, the smaller wire was fitted to the terminal in the same position as the previous.

 

If there was a 3rd wire to connect to the new alternator, I'd naturally have fitted it. Have I 1) got the second wire on the wrong terminal? or 2) is my wiring or some other component fucked?

[SiC]

Alternator terminals.

 

When I replaced the alternator in the Saab just before xmas I removed a 2 terminal one, and replaced it with an identical unit but fitted with 3 terminals. (1.9 Diesel Denso type). The main B+ terminal was fitted as before, the smaller wire was fitted to the terminal in the same position as the previous.

 

If there was a 3rd wire to connect to the new alternator, I'd naturally have fitted it. Have I 1) got the second wire on the wrong terminal? or 2) is my wiring or some other component fucked?

What are the terminals labelled?

 

B+, L and F?

 

According to Saab WIS, F provides the engine ECUs with generator load. "Generator connection F is not used in cars with diesel engine or petrol engine Z18XE.".

 

L is the battery light and field winding wire. I.e. goes to the battery warning light. On a modern car this goes into the ECU for the ECU to manage it and light the necessary dash lights when needed to.

 

B+ is to the battery

[dozeydustman]

Alternator fitted to car has no labels on the terminals. I've connected to the 2 arrowed in the diagram. The previous alternator had only the 2 arrowed terminals (identical post positions for other 2).

 

[666jjp]

1.8 petrol vectra ? I’d be checking the breather pipes into the throttle body . The small one goes into a tiny hole and blocks up easily

pulled the pipe off and there was some muck in the throttle body pipe. cleared some and the light went out but it has come on again.

I am a bit wary what to use and how far in to the throttle body to clear.

 

Unless it’s something a bit more in depth I’d just borrow/buy a cheap reader. What you’ve got there would be handy if you’ve got a spare laptop. I say spare cause a lot of this software is riddled with viruses. A cheap reader should be easy less than a tenner.

what type would be suitable, either of the below?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diagnostic-Car-Engine-Fault-Code-Scanner-Reader-Reset-Tool-OBD-2-CAN-BUS-EOBD/223103792575?epid=2122563386&hash=item33f205b5bf:g:mG0AAOSwgcVbFlEk

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Fault-Scanner-Engine-Reset-OBD-OBDII-OBD2-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-CAN-BUS-UK/292270324804?epid=26008832884&hash=item440cab3c44:g:POsAAOSw2FVbTyGa

[Guest Hooli]

pulled the pipe off and there was some muck in the throttle body pipe. cleared some and the light went out but it has come on again.

I am a bit wary what to use and how far in to the throttle body to clear.

Carb or brake cleaner & as far in as you can get, just don't leave bits of cloth in there afterwards.

[jcr]

Anyone the owner of an exceptionally nice looking Skoda Octavia MK1 in white registration ending in XSB... HubNut sticker on the rear view mirror, spotted in a layby near Reddish. If so, I commend you on having one of the nicest looking Octavia mk1s I have seen

[Pillock]

Phone question guys. I have an almost new iPhone 4s Global. It was a Nephews in NZ and locked to EE. It got lost and reported missing, probably to get a new phone. I want to go Vodaphone with Sim only. Can't go back for a code to EE, so can it be unlocked by a shop or whizz kid? Not worth while?

 

Can a mod shift this if in wrong place? Cheers

Almost new iPhone 4?

 

Anyway, no if it's locked then it's locked globally as Apple do their own authentication against a network unlike all other manufacturers who let the networks deal with it (with the effect that a network bar is usually just for one country)

 

It has to be Apple that unlocks it too. There's shady ways, it'll normally lock itself as soon as it does an update or you change the SIM.

 

There is a techy thread on the open forum with this type of stuff in btw. I'll leave this here for now though.

[rusty_vw_man]

Right, more help please. 

 

The previous owner fixed* lots of saggy vinyl issues on door cards by gaffer taping them over. When the old tape lost adhesion due to heat/UV exposure, he just put more over the top. 

 

I'm slowing sorting them by taking them off and stretching the vinyl back over and anchoring on the rear, but I'm left with a vast quantity of gaffer tape glue on everything. Due to the summer heat its all baked hard (i.e. its not sticky) with flaky bits of the white reinforcing mesh stuck to it. 

 

What can I remove it with? Carb cleaner works really well, but is discoloring the vinyl. WD40 was recommended elsewhere, but that just makes it slippery. Suggestions please? 

[sierraman]

pulled the pipe off and there was some muck in the throttle body pipe. cleared some and the light went out but it has come on again.

I am a bit wary what to use and how far in to the throttle body to clear.

 

what type would be suitable, either of the below?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diagnostic-Car-Engine-Fault-Code-Scanner-Reader-Reset-Tool-OBD-2-CAN-BUS-EOBD/223103792575?epid=2122563386&hash=item33f205b5bf:g:mG0AAOSwgcVbFlEk

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Fault-Scanner-Engine-Reset-OBD-OBDII-OBD2-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-CAN-BUS-UK/292270324804?epid=26008832884&hash=item440cab3c44:g:POsAAOSw2FVbTyGa

Either, they are a muchness really, get one, plug it in and see what it says, you’ve a rough idea then the area it may be. Carb cleaner for the throttle body. Pipes are tricky to clean out, I’d price up a new one, sometimes on Corsas the top breather pipe blocks, a new one is about £7, it’s hardly worth trying to poke it through.

[Guest Hooli]

Right, more help please. 

 

The previous owner fixed* lots of saggy vinyl issues on door cards by gaffer taping them over. When the old tape lost adhesion due to heat/UV exposure, he just put more over the top. 

 

I'm slowing sorting them by taking them off and stretching the vinyl back over and anchoring on the rear, but I'm left with a vast quantity of gaffer tape glue on everything. Due to the summer heat its all baked hard (i.e. its not sticky) with flaky bits of the white reinforcing mesh stuck to it. 

 

What can I remove it with? Carb cleaner works really well, but is discoloring the vinyl. WD40 was recommended elsewhere, but that just makes it slippery. Suggestions please? 

 

Sticky stuff remover?

 

https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/293673837

[320touring]

Have had the Oxford out on a round trip bimble to the parents, and my Dad had his first trip in it.

 

It's squealling like a fucker from the dynamo. Lubricating the rear bearing with 3 in one oil quietens it down but not for long.

 

Any ideas?

[SiC]

If you can find somewhere solid to jack to lift one end then spinning one of the ramps round 180 degrees would do away with the need for those posts

Just seen this.

 

I jacked it up each end individually and did consider doing that. My fear by doing that was not it rolling off, but slipping off both. Probably unfounded. I over imagine things sometimes.

[Tickman]

Have had the Oxford out on a round trip bimble to the parents, and my Dad had his first trip in it.

 

It's squealling like a fucker from the dynamo. Lubricating the rear bearing with 3 in one oil quietens it down but not for long.

 

Any ideas?

Find an alternator to chuck on, kits for the Minor are less than £100 so MG stuff should be easy to find too.