Shirley Knott Posted July 12, 2018 Posted July 12, 2018 For the low pressure line I'd be tempted to give fuel hose if the correct/similar ID a try? Something like this....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nitrile-Rubber-Smooth-Fuel-Tube-Petrol-Diesel-Oil-Line-Hose-Pipe-Tubing-Breather/130740225601?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=430086075655&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
sierraman Posted July 12, 2018 Posted July 12, 2018 Its the feed from the reservoir to the pump. Might try some of that. How would I make it so it was following a contour? Heat it up?
billy_bunter Posted July 12, 2018 Posted July 12, 2018 Just drained the oil on my old Audi. Went to replace sump plug. Half way in the memory just started to surface...then it stripped. Booger! Anyone used the rethread kits? Like this - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/laser-5227-m15-x-1-5-oil-sump-repair-kit/ Not sure I ought to try on a steel sump but needs must etc. There are cheaper on ebay but would like to repair this weekend as someone has expressed an interest in taking the jalopy off me.
Jazoli Posted July 12, 2018 Posted July 12, 2018 Its the feed from the reservoir to the pump. Might try some of that. How would I make it so it was following a contour? Heat it up? Leave the old one in situ and cable tie the new bit to it?
Parky Posted July 12, 2018 Posted July 12, 2018 same as a mk4 golf ? the gearstick on those is in a box that drops down after 4 bolts (plus heat sheild and exhaust ) nothing to it , can be replaced or rebuild once off the car whats wrong with it? have you tried this?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sheTKD03hmoHave seen the vid and will be resetting the cables at the weekend, looks pretty straightforward. Shifter has gone sloppy. Reverse engages ok, as does 3rd and 4th but the positive action has gone. First can be located if you push the stick down (as if going for reverse) but putting the stick forward slightly to the right of where reverse is. Second can be found if you change into it quickly from first but otherwise can’t be selected. Fifth has vanished, even having the stock hard over to the right and slotting forward Into where fifth is, I can only get third. I suspect a washer or bush has collapsed somewhere on the shaft allowing too much movement but cables first just to eliminate that possibility.
Shirley Knott Posted July 12, 2018 Posted July 12, 2018 Its the feed from the reservoir to the pump. Might try some of that. How would I make it so it was following a contour? Heat it up? That 's the low pressure line then. The hose is pretty bendy/resistant to kinking really, perhaps just bend it round whatever corners it has to follow..... Difficult to say without seeing where it's got to go as to whether it would be asking too much of it. Wouldn't fancy trying to heat it up TBH. Nicola H 1
bigfella2 Posted July 12, 2018 Posted July 12, 2018 Its the feed from the reservoir to the pump. Might try some of that. How would I make it so it was following a contour? Heat it up?Your from Sheffield aren't you. Could always try pertek between Valleys entertainment and gsf. sierraman and Nicola H 2
steveo3002 Posted July 12, 2018 Posted July 12, 2018 Have seen the vid and will be resetting the cables at the weekend, looks pretty straightforward. Shifter has gone sloppy. Reverse engages ok, as does 3rd and 4th but the positive action has gone. First can be located if you push the stick down (as if going for reverse) but putting the stick forward slightly to the right of where reverse is. Second can be found if you change into it quickly from first but otherwise can’t be selected. Fifth has vanished, even having the stock hard over to the right and slotting forward Into where fifth is, I can only get third. I suspect a washer or bush has collapsed somewhere on the shaft allowing too much movement but cables first just to eliminate that possibility.have a good look at the cable ends...might have fell apart
sierraman Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 I'll try Pirtek if the breakers aren't forthcoming. Cheers! Nicola H 1
Richard Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 Just drained the oil on my old Audi. Went to replace sump plug. Half way in the memory just started to surface...then it stripped. Booger! Anyone used the rethread kits? Like this - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/laser-5227-m15-x-1-5-oil-sump-repair-kit/ Not sure I ought to try on a steel sump but needs must etc. There are cheaper on ebay but would like to repair this weekend as someone has expressed an interest in taking the jalopy off me.I've never used one but I don't see any reason not to, assuming it's one size up from the stripped one.
sierraman Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 If your flogging it, araldite it in. Chances are the new owner won't be laid on the drive changing the oil.
Richard Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 I would use the repair kit. It's quicker, easier and a proper repair that you can be upfront about to the new owner. If I bought a car with fresh oil and found that the sump plug was glued in I would know who was responsible. I wouldn't be able to do anything six months down the line, but I'd know. Jerzy Woking, DeeJay and Nicola H 3
sierraman Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 Difference is you'd change the oil, a lot of people now think its filled for life. If you sold the car for a thousand quid or whatever I'd say there's a good chance the next time the oils drained out will be in the depollution bay.
Shirley Knott Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 Difference is you'd change the oil, a lot of people now think its filled for life. If you sold the car for a thousand quid or whatever I'd say there's a good chance the next time the oils drained out will be in the depollution bay. Still best to be honest though eh? I appreciate there's a good chance the next owner may not change the oil, but either way it would be a bit of a nasty trick. Meanwhile, I've used one of the Pela pumps for years and wouldn't go back to using the traditional method now unless I came across a car where I physically couldn't get the suction lance in. I've never had a sump plug break/strip but can't imagine it would be much fun
sierraman Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 I've had one where I couldn't get the plug off, it was done up fbt. Guessing that were araldited in. It was a £300 fiesta so it wasn't a big issue. Fair enough if your selling it for more than a few hundred then repair it proper.
Lacquer Peel Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 The Passat has what I think is an alternator whine, most noticeable at low speeds. Is it a duff bearing in the alternator and is it serviceable?
Richard Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 Could be, and yes. Gold Lion has some videos and will sell you the bits. Lacquer Peel 1
Shirley Knott Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 The Passat has what I think is an alternator whine, most noticeable at low speeds. Is it a duff bearing in the alternator and is it serviceable? Or buy another from a breaker, if you can bear it join your local FB 'Dub' type sales pages, usually £10-£20 a throw. There are about 300 Passats being broken a day at present. Make sure the alternator clutch pulley is working too whilst you're down there scdan4 and Lacquer Peel 2
SiC Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 Does this have one of those funny one way pulley things or whatever bollocks? I.e. not a solid lump of steel.
twosmoke300 Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 I use the laser sump plug repair kits ! Bloody great , no drilling needed. Just grease the tap well and screw it in there. It’s just a 1mm over size tap and plug . Ie if it was originally m14x1.5 then you need a m15x1.5 . Much better than fucking about with helecoils and / or Jb weld xtriple, Skizzer and Talbot 3
Dave_Q Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 Second hand DMF, is this excess mingebaggery? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alfa-Romeo-fiat-147-1-9jtd-16v-duall-mass-flywheel-Valeo/282950524165?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 I reckon my multipla will need a clutch & DMF soon, with a used DMF I could get the bits for £100 or so, for new I reckon £300+ which is 1/3 of the cars value. I do like the thing but I never keep cars that long and don't want to spend lots on a modern dizzler.
twosmoke300 Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 You can test them pretty well. You can download an app from Luk that will tell you the specs to test it and all the torque figures Luk dmf check point
SiC Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 Probably is on a 1.9JTD. They're not known for their long DMF life. But I think you can measure the play? I know the garage I use did on my Civic when they did the clutch. Said it was absolutely fine and I put another 50k ish on without a problem.
SiC Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 How do I measure, or what part do I measure on this fixing to check if it's 1/4 inch BSP or 1/2 inch BSP? (Or something else)
twosmoke300 Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 That’s not bsp- it’s orfs . O ring flat seal Do you have a pirtec or a john Deere dealer nearby ( JD love orfs pipes) Think they are a metric thread
twosmoke300 Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 Yup 2000 onwards they are available in FWD and RWD . Both rusty shitboxes with terrible engines tho Lacquer Peel and Nicola H 2
SiC Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 Damn. Amazon reviewers told lies. Explains the supplied fibre washers. There is a pirtex dealer not that far away. Not sure when they open, Google says 24/7 and so does their website. Surely that can't be correct?! I need to convert this to either 1/8" or Schrader valve. My original intention was to attach a Schrader 556 coupler to the end of that pipe.
twosmoke300 Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 Orfs doesn’t usually use fibre washers tho . The male end usually has a groove machines into it that an o ring sits in . Could be some Micky mouse chinese non conformist shit like those rubbish airlines you get with diy compressors
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