Richard Posted May 13, 2012 Posted May 13, 2012 I'd have thought putting bigger wheels on would be a simpler and more effective modification.
TimothyClaypole Posted May 13, 2012 Posted May 13, 2012 Some of the stairs in the film had wooden additions I'm sure.
CreepingJesus Posted May 13, 2012 Posted May 13, 2012 Simpler still would be putting some wedges in the steps and filming it from a different angle. This. Although...This was a question which came up in various car-modifying mags once in a while, when I started reading them in the mid 80's. The concensus was that flip-fronting your Mini was the easiest way to stuff a bigger engine and 5-spd 'box in. Even then, they were questioning the wisdom of chucking in a BL pig iron boat anchor tho'; Ford, Vauxhall or Fiat group engine + box combos were usually mentioned. Not least 'cos there were one or two open class rallycross and silhouette Minis back in the day, with Ford or Lancia twink power in there. Nothing new under the sun, eh? Even my Scalextric Metros got 'Powered by Ford' stickers, so I could pretend they had BDA's in... Stupid (or possibly not) question: friction linings from the mid 70's are likely to be asbestos, aren't they? If so, how would I go about removing and disposing of them safely?
M'coli Posted May 13, 2012 Posted May 13, 2012 ...Even my Scalextric Metros got 'Powered by Ford' stickers, so I could pretend they had BDA's in...There was 1970s Mini that raced in the 1300 Superloons class using a specially cast BDA block with A-series sump-gasket pattern and billet crank with the Mini crank's tail and taper, it all fitted onto a straight-cut Mini gearbox and allegedly turned out 220 bhp...
M'coli Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 Possibly - I couldn't watch more than a few seconds of it though, it's too painful!
The Moog Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 Been offered a Fiat Mutliplier for scrap money because it has failed its MOT. Failed on 2 front tyres (could get some part worns), Rear brake binding (probably a bit of an adjustment thing) and power steering leak. Looking about there is a Lucas stop leak power steering fluid. Does this actually work? Finance Director has said I can get it if it only costs the same as the car I am getting rid of (Volvo).
willswitchengage Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 Been offered a Fiat Mutliplier for scrap money because it has failed its MOT. Failed on 2 front tyres (could get some part worns), Rear brake binding (probably a bit of an adjustment thing) and power steering leak. Looking about there is a Lucas stop leak power steering fluid. Does this actually work? Finance Director has said I can get it if it only costs the same as the car I am getting rid of (Volvo). A friend of mine used to have one and had a whole Facebook album dedicated to photos of it on the back of recovery trucks.
The Moog Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 It is a FOF car. The guy spent loads having work done to it and then when it failed on leaking rack said he had enough. Gave to the keys to my mate and went and bought something else. My mate reckons that it is pretty sound and it is only the straw that broke camels back syndrome. Unless someone says otherwise might lob some stuff int eh rack and see if it fixes. If it does would be tempted to sort the rest. He has got a spares car that had its engine removed so could nick bits of that.
Cavcraft Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 If the price is lower or roughly the same as bottom CAP then it's a no brainer. Lob that stuff in and if it still leaks then chuck some duck tape or Blu-tac over it and run it through the auctions.
MrDuke Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 Has anyone ever successfully sprayed (or brushpainted) a dashboard, without it looking comically bad/the paint falling off after a week? If so, what did you use?I know that Halfords etc sell actual dash spray, but I'd like a better choice of colours than black or red. I'm not expecting it to be completely scratch-proof either, but something that sticks well and doesn't poison me would be good.
SambaS Posted May 16, 2012 Posted May 16, 2012 I've a couple of studs that were holding the exhaust manifold on, that wont come out with mole grips, am I best heating them with a blowtorch? Doing so wont damage the cylinder head will it?
DSdriver Posted May 16, 2012 Posted May 16, 2012 An old drill chuck is handy for getting studs out because it tightens up as you apply torque. A small stilson on the chuck is my weapon of choice. You have to be careful not to sheer the stud though.
alf892 Posted May 16, 2012 Posted May 16, 2012 spend a few minutes just tapping them on the top and sides with a hammer first............just tap mind........they may well come out with (decent) mole grips then
SambaS Posted May 16, 2012 Posted May 16, 2012 Thanks for the suggestions! Unfortunately I've yet to replace my drill. Had a lot of stuff nicked when I stupidly agreed to let a 'mate' share my garage.
Cavcraft Posted May 17, 2012 Posted May 17, 2012 Are Kindles/e-readers water proof? I look a good one handed* read in the bath but afraid of knackering one up with wet hands.
The Moog Posted May 17, 2012 Posted May 17, 2012 Nope ... Kindles arent. Plus we are on our third due to different issues.
Ross_K Posted May 17, 2012 Posted May 17, 2012 Are Kindles/e-readers water proof? I look a good one handed* read in the bath but afraid of knackering one up with wet hands. What about those waterproof bag things you get for phones? I'm sure there's a tablet/pda version. Of if you're mega cheap, use a ziploc sandwich bag.
catsinthewelder Posted May 18, 2012 Posted May 18, 2012 On the painting a dash front I spotted this on a VW forum Re: show us your painted dash« Reply #12 on: April 08, 2012, 17:09:46 » here's mine, pictured today after finally finishing the steering wheel. « Reply #13 on: April 08, 2012, 17:17:54 » Quote luving the colour combo « Reply #14 on: April 08, 2012, 17:36:56 » Quote That's nice Sven, that is the only painted dash I've seen which looks decent due to all of the cab plastics being done too. They usually look dreadful when the old worn black dash plastics are kept How did you paint your steering wheel btw? « Reply #15 on: April 08, 2012, 17:57:11 » thanks! Painting the plastic parts is the hardest part as it has a kind of crimpled texture which traps in dust and looks terrible after a week, so I had to smooth it out, it's hours of wet sanding until it's all smooth. the magic that keeps the paint on the plastic is called plastic primer... don't ever paint anything without applying primer first or it will just crack and fall off. same goes for the bakelite steering wheel, plenty of plastic primer and coats of acrylic paint... and no wedding rings while driving. (you can't paint the rubber wheels though) It's from here http://thelatebay.com/index.php?topic=9030.0
ashmicro Posted May 18, 2012 Posted May 18, 2012 Managed to shut up the valvetrain noise on my mate's Datsun 350Z (2005) by changing the oil, leaving it a pint short and lobbing in a pint of ATF. Question: is the engine (VQ35DE) a Renner lump? kthxbai.
dieselnutjob Posted May 18, 2012 Posted May 18, 2012 I drive round the north bit of the M25 everyday. The roadworks are gone, but now there are new speed cameras. When you go under a gantry there is sometimes a thing about the size of a microwave oven on the back, one on each lane, which I assume is a speed camera. When the variable speed limit is not in operation (so limit is 70) do these things do anything? How fast can I go? Currently I've slowed down to 75 on that section.
Pillock Posted May 18, 2012 Posted May 18, 2012 Apparently, when the variable speed limit is "off" (or set to NSL), the cameras do not operate.I've been under them at 80-85mph and never had any hate mail, this is the new ones on the M1 between J28 and J25. I doubt this is a fixed policy though and the cynic in me would suggest they want people to get used to doing that, and then one Thursday night they'll turn them all on before relaxing in a bath full of £50 notes. One interesting feature is that not all gantries have the cameras - and the ones that do are normally spotted by the fact the gantry on the other carriageway has cameras also - which you can obviously see as you approach. Again, I'm not going to suggest this is 100% true but it is accurate for that stretch, and the M42 that I use.
Minimad5 Posted May 18, 2012 Posted May 18, 2012 Stupid (non car related) Question: Does anyone on here do public speaking ? , if so : Whats the best way to present a powerpoint to a group of 50 to 60 people ? Asking thy silly question, as i have to do ^ that ^ next week , and to be honest i'm bricking it
barefoot Posted May 18, 2012 Posted May 18, 2012 I've read in the past that if you pass gantry a in lane 1 & then move over to lane 4 to pass gantry b it doesn't recognise you. This may of course all be bollocks.& folk did get tickets when the limit was down to 50 for several months.
willswitchengage Posted May 18, 2012 Posted May 18, 2012 ^^ Do you mean the yellow average speed cameras? Occasionally going through them in 50 you'll see some oaf blitzing them all at 70, perhaps they know something I don't
dieselnutjob Posted May 18, 2012 Posted May 18, 2012 no, now the roadworks have gone the average speed cameras have also gone. These new camera are a grey box on the back of the gantry and as the PP said you can see them easier on the other side. In places they have painted white distance lines on the road as well like they do at other camera site which suggests it's a spot speed check and not an average. Once you know what the cameras look like you can actually see them on your own side by looking up as you go under the gantry, but I guess by then it's too late.
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