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Posted

Seems it is just ordinary oil (ATF type stuff) but there seems to be no clear advice on draining, it ranges from remove oil cooler pipes and drain tat way to, there is a drain plug... Either way, there is no filter!

Posted

The exhaust on my 406 has some small holes on the centre pipe. It looks like it's been scraped at some point so there are a series of small rust holes about 12" along it's length on the bottom of the pipe. I've ignored it for a while and it passed the last couple of MOT's with just an advisory. However, I'm now noticing diesel fumes coming into the car when sat at the traffic lights and I don't want to poison the family. We've got a trip to France booked in July so I need to get it sorted before then. Is it worth me using an exhaust bandage or some other temporary fix or should I bite the bullet and get it replaced? I don't mind spending on it but the rest of the exhaust looks in OK condition.

Posted

You may need to get the rear section done too if they won't separate from one another. I'd get them from a factors and slip a garage £20 to fit it. Much cheaper than a fast-fit. Probably no warranty but I was able to do my old 1.6 escort for about £80.

  • Like 1
Posted

Clio has allegedly FTP and is very poorly according to what I've been told, but I haven't seen it yet. If it's just lost a round of cambelt roulette would it show some error codes like implausible crank sensor that I can check before I even try to turn it over?

Posted

How easy is it do get resetting the tappets wrong on a kent/Valencia engine?

Posted

I think the "rule of 9s" doesn't work on them or something, its 15 years since I've been at one though.

 

I've done a few though and it was easy enough, although the rockers on one were worn tae fuck where they whacked on the valve so I couldn't get a feeler in, I just set them by feel and it was close enough.

  • Like 1
Posted

Went to the Rover just then and it started up first turn of the key to my amazement. Let it idle for a bit and it started missing slightly.

 

Turned it off and now it won't start again

 

New plugs and cap on order for tomorrow

Just fitted new plugs, leads and a distributor cap. Well overdue.

 

Seems fine now although the idle is maybe still a bit shaky once it warms up - couldn't reach to replace the king lead so will do that next but it's 1000x better already!

Guest Hooli
Posted

 couldn't reach to replace the king lead

 

Have you tried standing closer & bowing?

Posted

I think the "rule of 9s" doesn't work on them or something, its 15 years since I've been at one though.

 

I've done a few though and it was easy enough, although the rockers on one were worn tae fuck where they whacked on the valve so I couldn't get a feeler in, I just set them by feel and it was close enough.

OK think I'll give it a go then.

 

Need to do the head gasket ASAP. I've never done one before (but taken my type of engine apart at college) and forgot that the head bolts were under a load of stuff and that they'd need resetting after.

Posted

How easy is it do get resetting the tappets wrong on a kent/Valencia engine?

Not very easy to get wrong on a Kent, hadn't heard of  the Vanecia before so can't comment but assume are the same. They are a very basic engine except the firring order is 1-2-4-3 instead of the more usual 1-3-4-2 so as already said, you can't use the rule of 9.

Posted

I should know, but don't:

 

1998 Zafira 1.6 petrol: can you access the fuel tank from under the seats? I'm sure I couldn't on the diesel, but it wasn't a problem as I could get the electric syphoner into the filler neck, but need to access the top of the tank to get the petrol out of this one.

Posted

I should know, but don't:

 

1998 Zafira 1.6 petrol: can you access the fuel tank from under the seats? I'm sure I couldn't on the diesel, but it wasn't a problem as I could get the electric syphoner into the filler neck, but need to access the top of the tank to get the petrol out of this one.

 

A quick internet suggests there is no access panel, the instructions for replacing the fuel pump involve removing the tank. 

 

 

Is it plastic, can you stab it with a screwdriver to extract the delicious free fuel?

Posted

A quick internet suggests there is no access panel, the instructions for replacing the fuel pump involve removing the tank. 

 

 

Is it plastic, can you stab it with a screwdriver to extract the delicious free fuel?

 

Possibly, but the scrap man cometh this week some time and I don't want to make a mess before he does. I wonder if I can shift the centre or rear seat, pull up the carpet and make a hole in the top?

Posted

see if you can bodge a bit of wire into the fuel pump relay so it runs 24/7 then point the fuel hose into the petty can...least messy way and you can enjoy a fag while the can fills up

  • Like 2
Posted

Changing pads on front discs of XM: Haynes book of lies suggests screwing the piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper, is it on a thread? I've been screwing for about an hour!

Posted

The Reliant's exhaust has blown, way before the back box. Seems down on power (yes it did'nt have much before). Would a blown exhaust cause this?

Posted

Apart from that thread with the useful website links on that takes ages to find (it needs to be pinned) is there a thread recommending places to get parts from?

 

I'm always needing stuff that euro car parts don't have or things at a more normal cost and it take ages to wade through Google.

Posted

Ahhh OK. I'm just thinking of another auto. Lagunas do scare me!

Posted

Changing pads on front discs of XM: Haynes book of lies suggests screwing the piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper, is it on a thread? I've been screwing for about an hour!

What an awful bit of industrial design. It turned what is an hour-a-side job on a Volvo 940 into a 3 hours-a-side lose the will to live nightmare.

Posted

Saab 93 2.2 TID.  I've noticed when starting up from cold and putting a bit of throttle on is causing a fair bit of white smoke - definitely worse when cold.  It's still boosting fine in it's own whistle-y way, no warning lights, although I'm noticing a drop in economy.  Oil usage has upped a bit too. 

 

What should I look for?  I'm guessing turbo seals myself, would they be a pain in the arse job for a fairly inexperienced moron?

Posted

Saab 93 2.2 TID. I've noticed when starting up from cold and putting a bit of throttle on is causing a fair bit of white smoke - definitely worse when cold. It's still boosting fine in it's own whistle-y way, no warning lights, although I'm noticing a drop in economy. Oil usage has upped a bit too.

 

What should I look for? I'm guessing turbo seals myself, would they be a pain in the arse job for a fairly inexperienced moron?

My old w124 did this and it was air in the fuel line caused by some pin holes. If you have transparent fuel lines it's easy to check.

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Guest Hooli
Posted

Changing pads on front discs of XM: Haynes book of lies suggests screwing the piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper, is it on a thread? I've been screwing for about an hour!

Are you pushing them in at the same time?

 

Every calliper I've done like that needs a damn good shove as you screw them inwards. I don't think it's a thread as such, just turning them releases the ratchet where the handbrake mech moves out with pad wear.

Posted

Is super-heating snapped or broken ABS rings and sliding them off, and then doing the same to the new ABS ring to fit them a recognised method of approach for such a job?

 

The S60 is going into the local friendly garage on Monday as I'm quite certain I've got snapped or borked ABS rings that are causing the 'BRAKE SERVICE NAO' warning lights to come on. A bit of research reveals Volvo's preferred method would be to charge you for a whole new axle/drive shaft or some such horrifically expensive item.

 

However, it seems very easy to buy the individual rings themselves, so the above method must be one that is recognised as a way around what is likely an unnecessary job?

 

A local friendly mechanic would know this right?

 

 

PLZ REASSURE.

 

He replaced the off-side CV joint and the ABS ring with it. Total cost £65. No warning lights now.

 

Yay.

Posted

Where can I buy proper old fashioned Red Lead primer? (or a genuinely good brushable alternative)

 

The bits painted in it seem to have lasted on my Rover.

 

DSC_0656_zpsw0lrksar.jpg

Posted

lead is banned now...epoxy primers are a good modern primer that works well

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