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Posted

Shuma's battery drains. If i take it out no drain, hooked up to car drains in a few days. I don't know anything about electrics, mate said to check the earth. Do i just take it off and clean it up? What else can i check?

 

Something on the car is using electric when it shunt, so best to google how to check for electric drain, and no doubt you will find a helpful youtube instructional video. Easy ish ways to tell involve pulling fuses and using a meter to see which electrical circuit is playing silly buggers!

Posted

I've been a bit naughty and got tugged for speeding ; copper put 90 on the ticket despite both of us knowing I was going a bit quicker than that... (in my defense i'd just driven 200 odd miles and I was "wagging my tail" as it were....)

 

This was March 10th, and I've heard nowt.

 

Have I got away with it?

Posted

 

 

Have I got away with it?

 

No. The much-quoted two weeks doesn't apply because the NIP is delivered at the time. It can be six months or more before you get a summons. I'm not sure what the exact time limit is but it's much more than a couple of weeks.

Posted

I've seen grey import 4x4s with twin batteries so I'm not sure it's anything to do with a winter pack, just a backup for churning a big indirect injection diesel over when it's cold.

 

I read somewhere it was an optional extra that many Japanese manufacturers offered in the domestic market, and was marketed as a "winter pack," along with other niceties for cold weather, can't for the life of me remember where, as I've had loads of these motors, I remember the Mazda Bongo I had sported the twin battery and 4x4 options, very cool.

Not as unusual as the "joyful talk" intercom between front and back of the Toyota Hiace, and then there was the Toyota Sera with it's own perfumed dispenser for the ladies - genius 8) 

  • Like 1
Guest Hooli
Posted

Shuma's battery drains. If i take it out no drain, hooked up to car drains in a few days. I don't know anything about electrics, mate said to check the earth. Do i just take it off and clean it up? What else can i check?

 

My first guess is the reg/rec in the alternator. Just because I've had a few diodes fail there & cause this issue.

 

The other poster saying measure current & pull fuses has the best way of working it out though.

Posted

Changing a steering rack on an MX5 - everything is loose but I'm struggling to remove the rod that comes from the steering column from the clamp on the rack - I've fully removed the pinch bolt

 

Soaked it in penetrating oil but access is awkward to spread the clamp any more - any tips for removing it?

Couple of days letting it soak meant a BFO hammer and pry bar against the clamp had it free :)

  • Like 2
Posted

 

 

The Alfa has a noisy wheel bearing but I'm not sure which one.

There is no play from any corner. Spinning the wheels by hand doesn't show up anything.

There is no difference in heat after a run from any hub.

The noise increases when going round a right hander and decreases on left handers.

 

Does this point to front passenger wheel?

Yes I'd say so as that's the wheel with all the load on it whilst turning right, it makes sense but with being italian its probably 20p stuck in the handbrake mech that's causing it.

  • Like 2
Posted

Something on the car is using electric when it shunt, so best to google how to check for electric drain, and no doubt you will find a helpful youtube instructional video. Easy ish ways to tell involve pulling fuses and using a meter to see which electrical circuit is playing silly buggers!

Thanks, i will see if i can get a mate to help don't know how to check elec using a meter.

Guest Hooli
Posted

^^ Dead easy.

 

Take earth cable off (as there is only ever one). Put ammeter between cable & batt - read display.

Pull fuses till current drain shown drops & that's what's causing it.

 

I'd suggest a meter reading to 10amps to start with, your drain will be much less than that but it's safe & will still show fractions on an amp.

 

Oh, don't start it like this. Unless you like your meter burnt of course.

  • Like 1
Posted

@forddeliverboy

 

Thanks for your advice. Perhaps not a good idea for my first Citroen then (not that I need another car...).

 

Dunno, it could be a steal - you just don't know until you have a good look for yourself. That white turbo-d on ebay would be ideal as a first CX, it sounds like it's been looked after and everything sorted to make it a very useable machine, but it's of little use unless you have a regular journey over 30 miles on open roads - big old Cits are not intended as mantelpiece objects or shopping trolleys. 

 

I've yet to find a car which is as fast, below-the-radar and capable of vast distances in less time than a mainline train as a petrol turbo CX - simply amazing. Unlike the GTi models, engine noise doesn't make itself known as the turbo smoothes and quietens, plus long, long gearing. There's just the steady rush of air as in aircraft, with a ride like a sailing boat on the plane. Can't begin to describe the magic, but it made other very fast and hugely expensive machines feel very ordinary and cheaply engineered.

  • Like 2
Posted

How do you change the door trim on the outside of the door on an MX5, the bit that sits by the window? My 'educated'  guess is that it's a door card off job but I'm hoping someone on here knows a bodge.... :)

Posted

Dunno, it could be a steal - you just don't know until you have a good look for yourself. That white turbo-d on ebay would be ideal as a first CX, it sounds like it's been looked after and everything sorted to make it a very useable machine, but it's of little use unless you have a regular journey over 30 miles on open roads - big old Cits are not intended for mantelpiece objects or shopping trolleys. 

 

I've yet to find a car which is as fast, below-the-radar and capable of vast distances in less time than a mainline train as a petrol turbo CX - simply amazing. Unlike the GTi models, engine noise doesn't make itself known as the turbo smoothes and quietens, plus long, long gearing. There's just the steady rush of air as in aircraft, with a ride like a sailing boat on the plane. Can't begin to describe the magic, but it made other very fast and hugely expensive machines feel very ordinary and cheaply engineered.

 

I was drooling over 6 cylinder's CX yesterday whilst picking up the BX for Strange Angel, and you are not helping my infatuation any with these descriptions!! If only I had a potful of cash I would be all over one like a tramp on chips :-P:-D

Posted

They're even better than that, and over the tens of thousands of miles I covered in them, more reliable than anything I've since owned. But I bought car which were in daily use, with high miles. I reckon you have to be a rapid-ish driver over open, fast, quietish roads to really appreciate them, they're not ideal for suburbia. There's been nothing since in which I could corner as quickly at high speed with such conviction. When you take one apart, it all becomes clear why.  

Posted

How do you change the door trim on the outside of the door on an MX5, the bit that sits by the window? My 'educated'  guess is that it's a door card off job but I'm hoping someone on here knows a bodge.... :)

The black plastic / rubber bit that runs along the glass ? It's held on with plastic clips that will almost certainly snap when you try to ever so gently prise it away.

 

The clips are available here

 

http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/door-glass-weatherstrip-clip-mk1-25-p-1219.html

 

but are two quid each !

Posted

Is all LHM created equal, or is some LHM more equal than others?

 

 

No, they're not! If you're running a Citroën that uses L.H.M. then always use the genuine stuff. If you're buying from a motor accessory shop then Total's L.H.M. is made to an identical spec. The imitation stuff WILL rot the seals on your car's suspension, leading to huge, catastrophic and mind-bogglingly frightening bills and many days off the road!

  • Like 2
Posted

Really? I've often thought cheap LHM can be thinner but I've not encountered it rotting seals etc

  • Like 1
Posted

Really? I've often thought cheap LHM can be thinner but I've not encountered it rotting seals etc

 

 

I can only pass on what my Citroën man, John, from Citroenex tells me. Apparently he had a car in his workshop which had been filled with non-genuine L.H.M. resulting in poor ride quality and creaking noises when going over bumps. The repairs took quite some time and the system needed flushing & many seals had been damaged.

 

Frankly for a few extra £s I'd stick to the genuine stuff! I had a similar experience a few years ago when my lower wishbone suspension arms needed changing. Non-genuine ones lasted about 3 months before "banging" on strong braking or accelerating. I replaced with genuine Citroën ones (£300+VAT-GULP!) and the result was an improvement in the ride and no bangs!  3 years later.... still perfect! Sometimes genuine IS best!! 

  • Like 4
Posted

I've known the cheaper LHM weep past the odd deteriorated seal, but nothing catastrophic, sorted by replacing with Total. It is a bit thin, I don't use it - best use the Total oil. Can't see how it would eat the seals, though - it has to conform to Citroen's spec for the fluid. 

  • Like 3
Posted

If you're running a Citroën that uses L.H.M. then always use the genuine stuff.

 

I am, and not just any Citroën either ;-)

 

I'll get the dear stuff then, don't want the Autoshite BX dying on my watch.

  • Like 2
Posted

Not strictly autoshite subject matter, but has anyone here had a Toyota/Lexus Soarer before.

 

Ive always wanted a V8 version and theres a nice red one up on ebay at the moment,  any tips on what to look for and what they are like for daily use?

Posted

I've been a bit naughty and got tugged for speeding ; copper put 90 on the ticket despite both of us knowing I was going a bit quicker than that... (in my defense i'd just driven 200 odd miles and I was "wagging my tail" as it were....)

 

This was March 10th, and I've heard nowt.

 

Have I got away with it?

Living up to your name outlaw! Was this in the Alfa of much torque? If so I can understand it. Very easy to hit big speeds in that without really trying. I certainly miss the pull of that engine now my daily's a 90bhp 406!

Posted

Shuma's battery drains. If i take it out no drain, hooked up to car drains in a few days. I don't know anything about electrics, mate said to check the earth. Do i just take it off and clean it up? What else can i check?

Just to update this. Been charging the battery since 8am this morn with a aldi/lidl charger and its still not charged. Normal or daffy ducked battery?

Posted

Not strictly autoshite subject matter, but has anyone here had a Toyota/Lexus Soarer before.

 

Ive always wanted a V8 version and theres a nice red one up on ebay at the moment,  any tips on what to look for and what they are like for daily use?

 

I've no direct experience but a good mate had one many years ago, it's an old heavy Japanese car and could well be baggy and saggy by now, if it has electronic/air suspension be careful as bits are becoming scarce, they are a great cruiser you will get late 20's mpg on a run but 20 at best round town, they are generally reliable enough, I was looking for a 2.5TT version years ago but bought a Supra Turbo instead as I couldn't find a nice one.

 

This looks pretty smart

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1996-Toyota-Soarer-4-0-GT-L-UZZ31-V8-Facelift-Lexus-/141928484862?hash=item210b98cffe:g:94QAAOSwmmxW5VPe

  • Like 1
Posted

What's the cheapest way to get replacement keys cut and programmed these days? (for stuff with an immobiliser / remote but not super modern keyless entry shit)

Posted

What's the cheapest way to get replacement keys cut and programmed these days? (for stuff with an immobiliser / remote but not super modern keyless entry shit)

Got one cut today for the swift from timpsons - £35 including immobiliser chip.
  • Like 1
Posted

My charger is a 2.5 amp jobbie (bought it about 30 years ago) and with a 100Ah battery, takes up to 48 hours if the battery is flat.

Posted

Still got water pouring in the boot of the v40.

 

I have had the panel off and sealed it all with the mastic that was recommended here.

 

It's not the boot seal as that has been siliconed. If I open the boot and lift the tailgate up water pours out of the back of the light cables

 

Any suggestions of where else it gets in?

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