Ask a Shiter

[Stanky]

How much noise should a torque converter make? I have become more aware of the droning of what I think to be the torque converter in the Saab, the note changes with engine revs and its not 'noisy' but it is audible up to about 40mph. It makes no noise at idle.

 

Is this normal for a modern auto box which has done about 110k, or should I be worried? a triple flush with fresh ATF is about £120 at my local Saab indie and as I have no record of it having been done I was planning to get this done at some point before the summer anyway, but might this be indicative of more serious problems?

 

This is only my second auto, the first being a 206 1.4 and the gearbox made similar noises on that, but it WAS borked so I don't have anything much to compare it to. My Father in Law reckoned his auto focus didn't make any torque converter noise but I've not actually been in it so can't tell.

 

Opinions?

[dave21478]

re Snickers....

When I were a lad our school used to occasionally go and play sports against the kids on the US air force base at Edzell. One of the highlights of the trips was all the American candy on sale in their wee tuck shop.

 

Hmm, Snickers...I wonder what that is like? I was very disappointed to find I had bought a re-badged Marathon. I dont like Marathons.

[steve_earwig]

Finally had the chance to get mine apart and it looks like it's been chewing a brick, a Meth addict would have more teeth.

It's a 1.4 2005 C4, the gearbox code is 20CQ15 dies anyone know any alternatives as all I can find are £200+ and I need something around the £1-150 mark.

Edit: Just comparing part numbers from Citroen to Pug, it's coming up 206 and 307 1.4s (TU & ET)

[Louise2cv]

Later than 1990 surely? It's just I'm sure I can remember the name change and if it was 1990 I was 6 and that has just become my earliest memory. How sad/worrying is that?!

[Jimmycrackcorn]

Edit: Just comparing part numbers from Citroen to Pug, it's coming up 206 and 307 1.4s (TU & ET)

Is that for a particular year run? Don't suppose it came up with any equivalent codes to 20CQ15? TU&ET? 

[steve_earwig]

I think you'd be looking for that CQ15 code (that's all they give, just CQ15). Build codes are all over the place and I won't know what differences there'll be without a lot of investigation (maybe none, maybe lots). I've no experience so I can't say "this one will do" because I just don't know, but I think if you look for 206 & 307 1.4 'boxes with the CQ15 code you should be fairly safe.

[robinmasters]

Who's that in Practical Classics with Partridge's old 605?

[Jimmycrackcorn]

I think you'd be looking for that CQ15 code (that's all they give, just CQ15). Build codes are all over the place and I won't know what differences there'll be without a lot of investigation (maybe none, maybe lots). I've no experience so I can't say "this one will do" because I just don't know, but I think if you look for 206 & 307 1.4 'boxes with the CQ15 code you should be fairly safe.

I've just sent a message to this seller for the code on the gearbox but it looks like the one.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121866871287?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

And there's also this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201481793633?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[steve_earwig]

The first one comes up an HDi, so the ratios would be spectacularly wrong, even if it did fit...

[Andrew353w]

How much noise should a torque converter make? I have become more aware of the droning of what I think to be the torque converter in the Saab, the note changes with engine revs and its not 'noisy' but it is audible up to about 40mph. It makes no noise at idle.

 

Is this normal for a modern auto box which has done about 110k, or should I be worried? a triple flush with fresh ATF is about £120 at my local Saab indie and as I have no record of it having been done I was planning to get this done at some point before the summer anyway, but might this be indicative of more serious problems?

 

This is only my second auto, the first being a 206 1.4 and the gearbox made similar noises on that, but it WAS borked so I don't have anything much to compare it to. My Father in Law reckoned his auto focus didn't make any torque converter noise but I've not actually been in it so can't tell.

 

Opinions?

I'd suggest a flush of the A.T.F. With most auto boxes you can't completely flush the box without dismantling it BUT the following method might help: 

 

Go under the car and locate the drain hole for the A.T.F. It's often opened by an Allen Key. Having located it take the car for a run that's enough to warm the A.T.F. fluid. Put the car on ramps and switch off. Open the drain hole on the box and drain the A.T.F. into a sizeable container-there could be quite a lot! Now measure the amount of A.T.F. that's come out and top up through the filler with the same amount. Run the engine & check the A.T.F. level & re-fill as needed. Now drive the car about & see if it's any better-it should be quieter. After a few hundred miles do the same thing until you have changed the amount of A.T.F. that the box holds (info available on line or from H.B.O.L.) It's not a perfect method, but I use it and my auto box is very quiet and smooth. 

 

Hope this helps!

[Coprolalia]

How did you get the car registration from the Ebay URL again? 
Can't find it on here...

[Landy Mann]

Does anyone know where to get a free code for a rover r660 radio? I've bought one for the rover to make up for the lack of display and preset buttons on the r770.

 

I've found somewhere that will do it for £8.99 but then I'll be pushing scrap value for downgrading the ice

.

 

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[Pillock]

Does anyone know where to get a free code for a rover r660 radio? I've bought one for the rover to make up for the lack of display and preset buttons on the r770.

 

 

 

I used a forum a couple of years ago for my Ford stereo, the code came back as a PM about three minutes after I asked, for free.

It might have been this one - http://www.unlockforum.com/forumdisplay.php/free-car-radio-unlock-codes-190.html?(certainly looks like it)

[Pillock]

How did you get the car registration from the Ebay URL again? 

Can't find it on here...

 

You can only do it if the ebay advert has the "Get the vehicle status report" link in the Item Specifics box, where the reg number will be "Y******" or something.

Click the link, in the address it goes to something like http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewJumpPageForVehicleHistory&vrm=WTY2OFhBTw%3D%3D&vrm_d=Y***%20***

 

It'll say "Viewjumppageforvehiclehistory" in the address, and then &vrm= with a load of gibberish.

You want to copy the bit after &vrm= until the first % sign - so in the example above, it's WTY2OFhBT

 

Go to https://www.base64decode.org/and paste that encoded text in, and hit decode.

This example is Y668XAO

[scaryoldcortina]

Ford ones are easy because the serial number decodes into the radio code. Rover/Vauxhall ones less so - you need either the database to refer to or a lead to exract the code from its pesky little ROM.

[Landy Mann]

I've just tried Pilocks link so I'll see if that works. Incedently the base model R660 radio has a far higher level of build quality than R770 posh gits like me with the SI trim should have.

[skattrd]

Who's that in Practical Classics with Partridge's old 605?

 

I've not seen the mag, but I think Jon dugong owns it now

[Stanky]

I'd suggest a flush of the A.T.F. With most auto boxes you can't completely flush the box without dismantling it BUT the following method might help: 

 

Go under the car and locate the drain hole for the A.T.F. It's often opened by an Allen Key. Having located it take the car for a run that's enough to warm the A.T.F. fluid. Put the car on ramps and switch off. Open the drain hole on the box and drain the A.T.F. into a sizeable container-there could be quite a lot! Now measure the amount of A.T.F. that's come out and top up through the filler with the same amount. Run the engine & check the A.T.F. level & re-fill as needed. Now drive the car about & see if it's any better-it should be quieter. After a few hundred miles do the same thing until you have changed the amount of A.T.F. that the box holds (info available on line or from H.B.O.L.) It's not a perfect method, but I use it and my auto box is very quiet and smooth. 

 

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks Andrew,

 

Various articles suggest anything from needing an ATF flush via new torque converter clutch to OMG its fucked new gearbox time lolololol. I've read up on the flush procedure and the best way to do it if to drain out the fluid, top it back up then run it to temperature, drain again, refill, run to temp, drain refill and run to temp one mnore time and then the ATF is about 90% new fluid.

 

Getting the Saab onto ramps is a right shit, as the front is low and has a big overhang so its substantially easier to do on a lift. I'll talk to the indy on monday and see when they can have a look at it. Happy to pay for the work if they reckon it stands a reasonable chance of curing the noise. Fingers crossed it is, its a lovely car and I'd like to keep it that way!

 

Cheers

[Landy Mann]

I used a forum a couple of years ago for my Ford stereo, the code came back as a PM about three minutes after I asked, for free.

It might have been this one - http://www.unlockforum.com/forumdisplay.php/free-car-radio-unlock-codes-190.html?(certainly looks like it)

Impressive! I wasn't expecting a reply but checking back an hour later i'd got a reply in three minutes!

 

 

No RDS and no steering wheel controls but it matches the dash well and in the future it'll probably end up in the land rover.

 

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[Luckythirteen]

Are late, fuel injected Mini Coopers (proper ones, not their elephantine namesake) any worse to work on than carb'd ones? I know the metalwork is much of a muchness, but in terms of resurrecting a dead one, or living with?

Just trying to prepare myself in case!

[Jimmycrackcorn]

The first one comes up an HDi, so the ratios would be spectacularly wrong, even if it did fit...

Not sure why I put that link, was supposed to be this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Low-mileage-Citroen-C4-manual-gearbox-2004-2010-possibly-Peugeot-307-308-/131708639263?hash=item1eaa72581f:g:VL4AAOSwJcZWezXk

I've messaged him for the code on it but it looks identical.

[skattrd]

Not really an autoshite question and I feel a bit guilty asking on here, but ...

 

What's good for cleaning alcantara? The Volvo has beige/cream alcantara on the seats.

[twosmoke300]

Seat alcantra?

Same stuff as you would use for a galaxy I suppose 😄

[steve_earwig]

I'm not sure if that means your seats are alcantara-covered and you need to clean off mystery substance X or your seats are made out of mystery substance Y and you've spilled some alcantara on them.

[mercrocker]

Maybe Louise has calendar-memory, like me....Mine works in reverse.   Everything between 1960 and 1990 is perfectly lucid, everything since 1.1.90 a complete blur.  Thankfully.

[HH-R]

I can't ever remember Snickers being Marathon and I was born late 80s.

[fairkens]

Think it changed 89/90.

[Andrew353w]

Thanks Andrew,

 

Various articles suggest anything from needing an ATF flush via new torque converter clutch to OMG its fucked new gearbox time lolololol. I've read up on the flush procedure and the best way to do it if to drain out the fluid, top it back up then run it to temperature, drain again, refill, run to temp, drain refill and run to temp one mnore time and then the ATF is about 90% new fluid.

 

Getting the Saab onto ramps is a right shit, as the front is low and has a big overhang so its substantially easier to do on a lift. I'll talk to the indy on monday and see when they can have a look at it. Happy to pay for the work if they reckon it stands a reasonable chance of curing the noise. Fingers crossed it is, its a lovely car and I'd like to keep it that way!

 

Cheers

 

I'd agree with what you've read but I'd not just run the car up to temperature. I'd drive it around for a few hundred miles to give the fluids a chance to really mix. If you don't drive the car before draining the A.T.F. again you could end up draining out a greater proportion of the new stuff you've just put in! As to getting the Saab up on ramps, I have a hydraulic jack & raise the car by putting a wooden plank under the sump. I then slide the ramps under as far as possible & then drive it up s-l-o-w-l-y!

 

Best of luck!

[scaryoldcortina]

[Andrew353w]

Are late, fuel injected Mini Coopers (proper ones, not their elephantine namesake) any worse to work on than carb'd ones? I know the metalwork is much of a muchness, but in terms of resurrecting a dead one, or living with?

Just trying to prepare myself in case!

I've owned 2 of them; a "M" (1995) one & a "W" (2001) one and they're just like working on the carb ones, except that everything is even tighter and a little more awkward to get at and to. I've done head gaskets, clutches (there's a special tool needed-I've one if you want to borrow) water pumps and numerous other bits & pieces and they are pretty basic in most respects. The cooling systems on the later one was different, in that the traditional side radiator was dispensed with & a smaller one mounted at the front, under the alternator, which makes working there VERY tight! The later one had more of a B.M.W. influence in some places but the engine still had a strange mix of metric and imperial fittings. The bodywork on the "M" one was much better than the "W" one; I expect Rover were running out of the £s so skimmed on the rustproofing. The front of mine cost £2,500 to completely rebuilt and it looked better than new when finished!