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Posted

Ahh I hadn't clicked on the name change.

Posted

Mitsubishi magma anyone had any experience with one Australian import

Tell us more ... year, model, engine size etc

Posted

There's a few Berlingo-lickers in heres, so someone might know;

 

Every now and then the speedo on Mrs. T's Bling drops to zero, stays there for a bit, and then pops back up to the current speed. When this happens, the mileometer stops counting too.

 

I'm assuming a signal from a speed sensor is dropping out. Do these use the ABS sensors for the speedometer/mileometer, or is there a different speed sensor somewhere (screwed into the gearbox instead of a mechanical speedo cable?) perhaps.

 

Would quite like to fix this, as it can be a bit bottom-clenching going through a speed camera having to rely on your memory of RPMs in specific gears for speeds.

Posted

Mitsubishi magma anyone had any experience with one Australian import

 

I have some experience as my Dad has had many Magnas over the years.

Posted

There's a few Berlingo-lickers in heres, so someone might know;

 

Every now and then the speedo on Mrs. T's Bling drops to zero, stays there for a bit, and then pops back up to the current speed. When this happens, the mileometer stops counting too.

 

I'm assuming a signal from a speed sensor is dropping out. Do these use the ABS sensors for the speedometer/mileometer, or is there a different speed sensor somewhere (screwed into the gearbox instead of a mechanical speedo cable?) perhaps.

 

Would quite like to fix this, as it can be a bit bottom-clenching going through a speed camera having to rely on your memory of RPMs in specific gears for speeds.

Likely a gearbox mounted speed sensor if it's an early Berlingo (pre 2001/2ish) - it's in behind the engine as per this guide when I did one on the 172

 

https://fuguttycars.wordpress.com/2017/11/04/calibrating-the-clio/

 

Sensor is £7.50 Inc delivery from ebay

Posted

Likely a gearbox mounted speed sensor if it's an early berlingo

Ah Yes, some more info about the car might be useful! It's a 2003 2.0hdi 90 with what looks very like a BE3/5 gearbox. I'm guessing the speed sensor would be screwed in on the diff housing.

 

Will have a look on the spare gearbag I have... just wondered if anyone knew for sure how the system works.

Posted

I have some experience as my Dad has had many Magnas over the years.

been offerd one as a swap for my prelude import two years ago 3.0 auto with gas just not sure about them

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  • Like 1
Posted

Ah Yes, some more info about the car might be useful! It's a 2003 2.0hdi 90 with what looks very like a BE3/5 gearbox. I'm guessing the speed sensor would be screwed in on the diff housing.

 

Will have a look on the spare gearbag I have... just wondered if anyone knew for sure how the system works.

Have a look at the guide I posted to locate the sender if it is there.

Posted

That Magna looks ace, would love to hear how you get on with it

Posted

been offerd one as a swap for my prelude import two years ago 3.0 auto with gas just not sure about them

 

They are very solid and reliable cars, designed for the Australian environment and built in Adelaide.

That one appears to be the mid-range LS model.

My friend has one with 350,000+ Kilometres on the clock and going strong.

Parts availability is essentially non-existent in the UK, but readily and easily available in Australia.

That being said, the 3.0 V6 was used in many other cars so mechanical parts should be available.

 

Wiki: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Magna#TL_/_KL

 

Definiately worth looking into.

Posted

Thanks buddy for the info parts were my concern amd just need to check about insurance being a import liked the idea of gas conversion.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks buddy for the info parts were my concern amd just need to check about insurance being a import liked the idea of gas conversion.

 

If you need help with parts than feel free to give me a bell, I'll take any excuse to go to the breakers yard!

 

(This offer extends to any shitter in need of Australian based spares.)

  • Like 2
Posted

I still have my Sigma which I believe is the model before your Magna and apart from service parts , which are available from local motor factors , I haven't needed anything , she just keeps on rocking .

Whereabouts is the Magna , I think it was on the market a couple of years ago up in Scotland

Posted

I still have my Sigma which I believe is the model before your Magna and apart from service parts , which are available from local motor factors , I haven't needed anything , she just keeps on rocking .

Whereabouts is the Magna , I think it was on the market a couple of years ago up in Scotland

yes in Scotland
Posted

Has anyone changed the spark plugs on a 1.6 petrol Juke.

 

Do I really need to remove the radiator to allow room for the inlet manifold to come off? Really. Fucking Haynes book of lies is shit.

 

Also anyone changed a pollen filter on one¿ again lies

 

I doubt it's any worse than a 1.6 Note. A quick Google suggests some Jukes "3 of 4 plugs are easy / 1st plug located on the left side / remove the cast intake tube / less than 30 min from start to finish...". Note 1.6:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrhY-x5z8EU

 

If the cars are Coil over Plug, DON'T use a magnetic spark plug socket (like in the video). Use a crap rubber or proper metal spring clip one and get a decent skinny one that'll slip down a deep hole.

 

Take me 30 mins to do a Honda Jizz, because 8 coils to pop off and 8 plugs to do and some covers and wiring crap to remove/push out of the way to get at things.

Posted

My white 405 is going in for MOT on Monday. 

 

I've noticed one of the rear doors doesn't open from inside, I'm going to attempt to rectify it, but is it still a failure if there's no back seat....?

Posted

2005 Kia Rio 1.3 pez........won't tick over when cold without revage........and then sometimes cuts out. hunts a bit when warm too....any suggestions. [i'm doing this diagnosis approx 160 miles from the car [Dad's old knacker]

Posted

So a question for you electric types. I got a hotplate fryer thing for the garden. Thought it would be better than a barbecue. Anyway it arrives and it's a 3kw and doesn't have a plug. It just has 3 wires so needs wiring in. Does this need it's own ring or can I take a spur of a nearby socket and put a switched socket oon it for this to connect to. Thanks you.

Posted

Mitsubishi magma anyone had any experience with one Australian import

We had one in Aus they're ok.

 

We looked at an estate here that needed some work, parts were OEM only nothing pattern was available for track rod ends etc but that was 10 years ago, these days I would just get posted from Aus.

Posted

So a question for you electric types. I got a hotplate fryer thing for the garden. Thought it would be better than a barbecue. Anyway it arrives and it's a 3kw and doesn't have a plug. It just has 3 wires so needs wiring in. Does this need it's own ring or can I take a spur of a nearby socket and put a switched socket oon it for this to connect to. Thanks you.

3kW is slightly over 13A so hot plate fryer will blow the fuse in a 13A plugtop (maybe not immediately, but it will blow). About the same power as an immersion heater.

You need a 16A single-phase round socket & round plug on the portable equipment. Ideally on it's own dedicated circuit back to the mains (in 2.5mm cable) protected by a 16A mcb and (definitely) an RCD if you don't have RCD protection already. Take this feed to a 20A master switch somewhere inside the house near where the outside socket is so you can isolate it when not used.

 

Spurring 16A off the existing ring circuit is ok if the circuit is not heavily loaded, BUT you'd still need to downrate to a 16A circuit breaker at the point where you spur off the ring, and fit an RCD if the existing ring isn't RCD protected. (You can get combined kits in a plastic enclosure for use in shower installations). If you don't do this then all that's protecting against overload at the outdoor equipment or wiring is the 32A ring-circuit breaker, as there's no fuse inside a 16A round socket.

 

Outdoor IP44 socket mounted on exterior wall, facing downwards obv. Available Screwfix or local electrical wholesalers, etc. etc. Not expensive.

MF068of.jpg

 

UXA44e3.jpg

16A outdoor plug, like caravan / campsite plug.

 

 

That's ideal scenario, depends how easy it is to get a dedicated supply cable back to mains board.

Posted

Thank you very much jee. Beyond my capabilities to be fair. Luckily for me the thing arrived damaged, big dint in the hotplate. I have told them but they are asking what I want. To do. Think I shall send it back and stick to the smaller plug in hotplate.

Posted

^ It would save a bit of work, esp if only used occasionally.

Posted

3KW rating means it was most likely designed for 13A sockets.

At "supposedly standard" 230V then pulling 3KW will indeed exceed 13A, but only by 40mA so not really worth fussing over.

Most homes hover around 240V anyway at which point you're only on 12.5A.

 

Kettles are usually 3KW.

Posted

 

 

Kettles are usually 3KW.

 

That was my thought too, then I checked mine & it's 2.2KW.

 

I know with domestic water heaters for putting over sinks 3KW ones are sold as able to use a normal plug so I'd just run a spur & use it with a normal 3-pin plug. 2 core & earth 2x2.5mm2 for the spur is rated at 16amp so it'll be fine.

Posted

OK all good stuff. Next question. Behind my gas cooker I have a electric cooker junction box, with a dedicated cooker switch on the wall. Would I be better running a spare off that to the garden purely for this grill thing.

Posted

Anyone know if it is possible to lubricate the heater fan bearings on a Rover 820 without removing the motor? Looks like I have to remove the motor and take off the fan to get access to the motor bearings. Unless of course, you know different. I freed the motor a couple of weeks back but it is stuck again. Does not blow the fuse when it sticks but does give an electrickery burning smell. This maybe a question that Lord Sterling can answer.

Posted

OK all good stuff. Next question. Behind my gas cooker I have a electric cooker junction box, with a dedicated cooker switch on the wall. Would I be better running a spare off that to the garden purely for this grill thing.

1. Do you have electric oven or hob connected to it at all?

2. Unless your mains board is very recent you probably don't have RCD protection for cooker circuit itself. BUT, do you have RCD protection for other circuits (i.e. sockets, shower)?

3. If RCD protected board, do you have 'spare' positions in the mains board on that side?

Posted

It would have to be a 13A fused spur otherwise you've only got a 32A breaker protecting it and if the hob fucks up, your weakest link becomes the cable. A fuse must always be rated lower than the cable it's protecting.

 

I also think regs state a cooker circuit must only be used for a cooker. I know if we went out to install a cooker and the customer had wired their cooker hood into the circuit, it was a walk away.

 

I'm not certified though so you might want to get advice from a sparky.

Posted

^ If neither oven or hob are connected it would be ok to use the redundant circuit, provided it was clearly marked at the board. My thoughts were to swap it to the RCD side of the board (if there is one) and protect with 16A mcb. Can then feed the outside fryer appliance via a 2.5 from the old cooker outlet - preferably through a 16A exterior blue socket.

In effect, the old 'cooker' circuit would become 'garden socket' circuit.

 

I think the pins of a 13A plugtop would get hot quickly running at full 13A (assuming the fuse holds) and possibly fry the insides of a 13A socket. It may well work absolutely fine but instincts and previous experience say no and I personally wouldn't do it. I've seen sockets and spur points which look ok but have been crispy fried and melted inside, running hot but at just under the fuse tripping current. They fall to bits with you if you unscrew the face off the wall. Scary.

 

(Maybe this should be continued in the Open Forums electrical thread?).

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