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Posted

What would be the best way to fuse this headlamp upgrade circuit? Any other suggestions on how to improve it would be appreciated too.

 

I posted this to a make-model specific forum ages ago and there was some disagreement. Some said that there should be one before each relay rather than one on the single battery positive that way if a fuse blows only one headlight is lost. Others argued that this setup leaves the battery positive unprotected until just before the relays but putting a fuse there means that if it blows both headlights are lost at once.

 

30890574427_7e1e4f7661_b.jpg

Posted

You want the fuse as close as possible to the battery. If any wire between the battery and the fuse gets chafed there's no protection so you want to minimise the possibility of that happening. 

 

You can still have fuses at the relays.

Posted

Yo shite fans. Anyone fancy a Bosch KE Jetronic fuel injection challenge?

 

Audi 80 is failing to start. There’s a big fat spark, so it’s probably not ignition.

 

The fuel pump makes all the right noises and the fuel pipe upstream of the metering head has petrol in it at the union where you undo it to depressurize the system. The cold start injector and the injector on number 1 cylinder are both as dry as a nun’s nasty though, as a Kiwi acquaintance of mine used to say. The plug-in controller thingy on the cold start injector tests ok on a circuit tester.

 

It ran fine a few weeks ago and I’ve not done anything obvious to break it.

 

Any suggestions what to try next? Hoping I don’t need a whole new metering head.

 

Edit: Have a pic of a dry and slightly sooty cold start injector.

 

post-4091-0-42730300-1541969278_thumb.jpeg

Posted

Yo shite fans. Anyone fancy a Bosch KE Jetronic fuel injection challenge?

 

Audi 80 is failing to start. There’s a big fat spark, so it’s probably not ignition.

 

The fuel pump makes all the right noises and the fuel pipe upstream of the metering head has petrol in it at the union where you undo it to depressurize the system. The cold start injector and the injector on number 1 cylinder are both as dry as a nun’s nasty though, as a Kiwi acquaintance of mine used to say. The plug-in controller thingy on the cold start injector tests ok on a circuit tester.

 

It ran fine a few weeks ago and I’ve not done anything obvious to break it.

 

Any suggestions what to try next? Hoping I don’t need a whole new metering head.

 

Edit: Have a pic of a dry and slightly sooty cold start injector.

 

attachicon.gifFDC33315-41E6-43CF-B2AF-668327830E2D.jpeg

 

 

Not a stop solenoid or something somewhere else in the system is there?

Posted

What do I need to search for to get a bag of ~5 incandescent bulbs for my 1998 toyota? Ebay is full of LED T5 B8 bulbs but they look wrong (and if the pictures are anything to go by, retina-damagingly bright) to me.

 

The ones that I need to replace are normal filament bulbs, tiny weenie - like the size of an LED, but not LED - and fitted to a plastic cap which twist-fits into a recess in the back of the instrument cluster. I need the bulb and cap if sold separately, which I hope they are not.

Posted

Not a stop solenoid or something somewhere else in the system is there?

Good question - dunno, might be. Not quite sure what controls it, actually.

Posted

What do I need to search for to get a bag of ~5 incandescent bulbs for my 1998 toyota? Ebay is full of LED T5 B8 bulbs but they look wrong (and if the pictures are anything to go by, retina-damagingly bright) to me.

 

The ones that I need to replace are normal filament bulbs, tiny weenie - like the size of an LED, but not LED - and fitted to a plastic cap which twist-fits into a recess in the back of the instrument cluster. I need the bulb and cap if sold separately, which I hope they are not.

 

 

ECP do them for about £1.70 a pop including holders. T10 286 peanut bulb

 

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-parts/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/lighting1/car-bulb/?481774872&0&cc5_401&type=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw5_fBRCSARIsAGodhk8MCgE7GfGIrkQHM0XhWB9ha2NG4lW2bKaWki5-yb8Mf-7qdZQIYTkaAuGxEALw_wcB

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm going to be a massive mingebag and go in for one, and use the discount code too!

 

Thanks DD!

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm going to be a massive mingebag and go in for one, and use the discount code too!

 

Thanks DD!

 

 

There are several different holders, so unless you know what colour or pattern you need it may not fit. The bulb is the same - 2W peanut.

 

If you google about you can find them for cheaper.

Posted

Good question - dunno, might be. Not quite sure what controls it, actually.

That’s not true, on reflection: I do know, it’s the plate that goes up and down with the airflow, mechanically operating a valve. The plate isn’t stuck so maybe it’s the valve. Which probably means a whole new head. BOLLOCKS.

Posted

There are several different holders, so unless you know what colour or pattern you need it may not fit. The bulb is the same - 2W peanut.

 

If you google about you can find them for cheaper.

 

except for the 1.2w ones if they are for dashboard ;-)

Posted

ATTENTION ALL VOLVO 700/900/850 OWNERS!!!

 

I need details photographs of your headlight wipers! Specifically of the arm/blade dimensions and the splined motor shaft.

 

I’m chasing a lead that they might fit my Jag, so any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

HANDSOME REWARD TO ALL WHO HELP (a like and a thank).

 

BUMP ON THIS

 

I'm looking at you danthecapriman, assuming you still have the bits lying around since you removed them on your 740.

Posted

What would be the best way to fuse this headlamp upgrade circuit? Any other suggestions on how to improve it would be appreciated too.

 

I posted this to a make-model specific forum ages ago and there was some disagreement. Some said that there should be one before each relay rather than one on the single battery positive that way if a fuse blows only one headlight is lost. Others argued that this setup leaves the battery positive unprotected until just before the relays but putting a fuse there means that if it blows both headlights are lost at once.

 

30890574427_7e1e4f7661_b.jpg

 

 

You want the fuse as close as possible to the battery. If any wire between the battery and the fuse gets chafed there's no protection so you want to minimise the possibility of that happening. 

 

You can still have fuses at the relays.

 

What he said ^^

 

But if you do it with the relays near the battery then you can wire it your way too. Of course relays nearer the lights is better for reducing voltage drop...

 

TBH I'd do it your way but if it was a long run to the relays maybe put a bigger fuse in too up near the battery.

Posted

except for the 1.2w ones if they are for dashboard ;-)

 

 

2w ones in the corolla.....

Posted

Also posted in news 24:

 

Any Brum shiters who could view and collect 5 tyres for me from Sheldon por favour?

Posted

I am trying to remove primer that has been sprayed onto fibreglass, it's bloody hard work using tcut, I can't find proper cutting compound locally which might be better. I'm a bit concerned about using paint stripper or anything too abrasive. Any sensible suggestions?

Posted

I await your arrival squire!

 

I used the wrong paypal card to pay for this roffle...

 

Note to self, don't enter roffles from the joint account, it causes earache.

I'm off to wakefield tomorrow to collect this week's roffle Saab.

As I'm coming from Suffuck will I need a rain mac, scarf and gloves.

Posted

I am trying to remove primer that has been sprayed onto fibreglass, it's bloody hard work using tcut, I can't find proper cutting compound locally which might be better. I'm a bit concerned about using paint stripper or anything too abrasive. Any sensible suggestions?

 

Tell em purplebargeken.

Your fine retort. FIRE

Posted

I am trying to remove primer that has been sprayed onto fibreglass, it's bloody hard work using tcut, I can't find proper cutting compound locally which might be better. I'm a bit concerned about using paint stripper or anything too abrasive. Any sensible suggestions?

DON'T use paint stripper on fibreglass unless you want it to dissolve! Use 1500 grade wet or dry with soapy water, then polish with T-Cut.
  • Like 1
Posted

Battery question here...

The Honda Accord battery will go almost completely flat if the car is not used for three or maybe four days. Starts fine if used daily ish.

Checking for parasitic drain shows a 37mA drain (constant).

By my reckoning this shouldn't kill a battery in three days surely? The battery is unknown vintage as it came with the recently purchased car. The battery has been flat twice now to my knowledge.

Is the battery just weak?

Will a new battery cure the problem?

Posted

Remove all interior lamp bulbs (especially if self-dimming) and the radio must be switched off before the ignition switch. These are the usual battery drains for the symptoms you describe.

  • Like 1
Posted

Have done that, but symptons persist. Would a weak battery explain the issue before splashing out £80 on a new one?

Posted

Battery question here...

The Honda Accord battery will go almost completely flat if the car is not used for three or maybe four days. Starts fine if used daily ish.

Checking for parasitic drain shows a 37mA drain (constant).

By my reckoning this shouldn't kill a battery in three days surely? The battery is unknown vintage as it came with the recently purchased car. The battery has been flat twice now to my knowledge.

Is the battery just weak?

Will a new battery cure the problem?

 

What year is it ? some newer hondas had trouble with the bluetooth units draining batteries

Also be aware some can bus cars need up to 30 mins to shut down so bear that in mind doing drain tests

 

Honda parasitic drain spec is 0.02a

  • Like 1
Posted

What year is it ? some newer hondas had trouble with the bluetooth units draining batteries

Also be aware some can bus cars need up to 30 mins to shut down so bear that in mind doing drain tests

 

Honda parasitic drain spec is 0.02a

It's a 2003.

Posted

Battery question here...

The Honda Accord battery will go almost completely flat if the car is not used for three or maybe four days. Starts fine if used daily ish.

Checking for parasitic drain shows a 37mA drain (constant).

By my reckoning this shouldn't kill a battery in three days surely? The battery is unknown vintage as it came with the recently purchased car. The battery has been flat twice now to my knowledge.

Is the battery just weak?

Will a new battery cure the problem?

 

What year is it ? some newer hondas had trouble with the bluetooth units draining batteries

Also be aware some can bus cars need up to 30 mins to shut down so bear that in mind doing drain tests

 

Honda parasitic drain spec is 0.02a

^^ this.

 

Also if leaving the automatic lights and automatic wipers on the Civic spaceship it can cause excess power drain. So might be something similar. There was also issue with the spaceship Civics on the body computer failing causing excess powerdrain too.

 

37mA sounds a bit low for a light being left on. P=V*I - 12v * 0.037A = 0.45W. So would be a 0.45W (450mW) bulb, which is way lower wattage than most bulbs ever are.

 

Drawing 37mA over an hour would be 37mAH (0.037AH) of drain per hour. Over 2 weeks (0.037Ah*24hrs*14days), that would drain 12.4Ah from a battery. A fair bit but on a modern 60AH+ battery it should have far enough energy to start the car.

Posted

Everything is standard on the car. No automatic lights or wipers.

Just guessing or hoping that the battery is old and has been flattened twice by inactivity. Three months standing unused. Before my ownership. Would that cause the issue?

Posted

Does sound like a deadish battery.

 

Check your charging voltage, then if that's fine get the battery tested.

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