Ask a Shiter

[Kiltox]

My understanding is that they're making the emissions test reflect what they should actually be rather than a arbitrary threshold - I don't know how strict that makes it but I have serious doubts about the integrity of any manufacturer when it comes to modern diesels

[AMC Rebel]

My understanding is that they're making the emissions test reflect what they should actually be rather than a arbitrary threshold - I don't know how strict that makes it but I have serious doubts about the integrity of any manufacturer when it comes to modern diesels

 

My understanding is for diesels that ones fitted with a dpf shouldn't have any visible smoke.  I've had diesels with and without dpf - the dpf one never had any smoke that I saw, the others did/do - but they will still pass MOT all other things being equal.

[AMC Rebel]

Anyone know of a good specialist Jag breaker?

Stolen from the S-Type thread 

 

https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/

[bramz7]

Possibly (and this is a big possibly) might need a hand storing something quite far up north for a short while if I purchase it. No MOT but cheap.

 

I'm talking round Durham way. any help appreciated.

[Split_Pin]

Before I condemned the engine on my Corsa last year, it had a new timing chain kit fitted (it didn't cure the knock). As such its done only a couple of hundred miles.

 

The chain on the replacement engine isn't in its first flush of youth and could do with changing perhaps over the winter. Given the low miles of the new chain, could I reuse that, together with the tensioner or is it best to just buy a new kit?

[catsinthewelder]

I tend to base decisions like that on cost of part vs time it takes to fit.  Could the knock have damaged it?  I would probably reuse it but I'm also a massive skinflint.

[Split_Pin]

Good point, its not a dear kit to buy.

[drum]

You know how you can hammer a smaller socket over a rounded bolt head? Well, can you hammer a larger Torx into a rounded Torx head?  

Bloody wheels cylinder on daughter's polo so no room. 

[cort1977]

Probably, I hammered an imperial hex in to a rounded metric hex head bolt the other day.

[catsinthewelder]

I find Torx invaluble for hammering into rounded hex

[burraston2006]

A mate has just bought a new Aldi Q3 Quattro (more money than sense) and Aldi have told him that if you need a new tyre you have to change both tyres ion the same axle. Is this a load of bullocks? Never heard this before, but I'm asking as I've just put a Whang King Ditch Finder Special on my Rangie P38 and it sounds like the diff is whinging/ humming like a fxxked.

[Jazoli]

A mate has just bought a new Aldi Q3 Quattro (more money than sense) and Aldi have told him that if you need a new tyre you have to change both tyres ion the same axle. Is this a load of bullocks? Never heard this before, but I'm asking as I've just put a Whang King Ditch Finder Special on my Rangie P38 and it sounds like the diff is whinging/ humming like a fxxked.

Sounds plausible because the rolling radius of the new tyre will be different, odd tyres used to knacker the 4WD on Cavalier Turbo's back in the day.

[wuvvum]

It's Saturday, so time for more 205-related questions.

 

 

I actually got the track rod end off in the end - with the gaiter pulled back I was able to get a 16mm spanner on the flats to hold it in place, and I found my better 19mm spanner which with some serious twatting from a lump hammer was enough to get the lock nut undone, and then the TRE came out fairly easily.  So the new one is on and that's all good.  Fitted the new front wishbone as well.

 

That leaves the rear brake.  The new shoes and cylinder came yesterday, and I got the old shoes out in a couple of minutes.  The cylinder is a completely different story though.  I can't get to the fixing bolts from the drum side as it's a semi-blind thread, so I'd have to drill them out from the backplate side, which is going to be an utter twat as access is hopeless.  Another issue is that neither the brake pipe union nor the bleed nipple are going to come out - both appear to be made from a particulary ripe Camembert and rounded off as soon as any torque was applied (despite me using the correct 6.5mm 6-point socket for the nipple).  Mole grips won't touch them either - they just chew into the "metal".  I'm less bothered about the bleed nipple as I'm pretty sure the wheel cylinder would come out even with the nipple still in place, so I'd just have to buy a new nipple.  The brake pipe union is going to be more problematic.  As I see it there are a few possible options:

 

-Cut the brake pipe just before the union and get a bolt extractor on the union.  The brake pipe is copper at that point so wouldn't be an issue for me to fit a new end and re-flare it; main concern with this method is that if I still can't get the end out I'm a bit screwed.

 

-Nick the stub axle and hub assembly from the other 205.  I'm not sure though whether the stub axle comes out of the trailing arm easily or not (HBOL is no help here), plus that would also render the other 205 immobile.

 

-Rebuild the brake cylinder in situ using parts nicked from the new one.  No idea how feasible this is.

 

-Blast the fuck out of everything with brake cleaner, then fit the new shoes and refit the drum just before going for the MOT test, and hope the leak is slow enough that it doesn't become noticeable until after the test is done.  Not ideal, for obvious reasons.

 

-Say "fuck it" and get the garage to do it.  Main issues with this are that it would be deeply annoying to fall at the last hurdle, and if the job turns out to be even more of a twat than it currently appears, the bill could go up.

 

 

Any thoughts on any of the above or any alternative suggestions gratefully received.

[robinmasters]

Sounds plausible because the rolling radius of the new tyre will be different, odd tyres used to knacker the 4WD on Cavalier Turbo's back in the day.

Can't modernz with electronic traction control recognise the differing radii and adjust the drive accordingly?

[666jjp]

took your advice, bought an 02 Vectra with 56000 on the clock instead

got this home today but no manuals with it, does anyone have a set knocking about - happy to pay

[Guest Hooli]

I wouldn't reuse half the wheel cylinder, the bore normally wears so your new seals won't last long.

[Squire_Dawson]

What are the differences between the Chevy Stovebolt and Blue Flame sixes?

[artdjones]

It's Saturday, so time for more 205-related questions.

 

 

I actually got the track rod end off in the end - with the gaiter pulled back I was able to get a 16mm spanner on the flats to hold it in place, and I found my better 19mm spanner which with some serious twatting from a lump hammer was enough to get the lock nut undone, and then the TRE came out fairly easily. So the new one is on and that's all good. Fitted the new front wishbone as well.

 

That leaves the rear brake. The new shoes and cylinder came yesterday, and I got the old shoes out in a couple of minutes. The cylinder is a completely different story though. I can't get to the fixing bolts from the drum side as it's a semi-blind thread, so I'd have to drill them out from the backplate side, which is going to be an utter twat as access is hopeless. Another issue is that neither the brake pipe union nor the bleed nipple are going to come out - both appear to be made from a particulary ripe Camembert and rounded off as soon as any torque was applied (despite me using the correct 6.5mm 6-point socket for the nipple). Mole grips won't touch them either - they just chew into the "metal". I'm less bothered about the bleed nipple as I'm pretty sure the wheel cylinder would come out even with the nipple still in place, so I'd just have to buy a new nipple. The brake pipe union is going to be more problematic. As I see it there are a few possible options:

 

-Cut the brake pipe just before the union and get a bolt extractor on the union. The brake pipe is copper at that point so wouldn't be an issue for me to fit a new end and re-flare it; main concern with this method is that if I still can't get the end out I'm a bit screwed.

 

-Nick the stub axle and hub assembly from the other 205. I'm not sure though whether the stub axle comes out of the trailing arm easily or not (HBOL is no help here), plus that would also render the other 205 immobile.

 

-Rebuild the brake cylinder in situ using parts nicked from the new one. No idea how feasible this is.

 

-Blast the fuck out of everything with brake cleaner, then fit the new shoes and refit the drum just before going for the MOT test, and hope the leak is slow enough that it doesn't become noticeable until after the test is done. Not ideal, for obvious reasons.

 

-Say "fuck it" and get the garage to do it. Main issues with this are that it would be deeply annoying to fall at the last hurdle, and if the job turns out to be even more of a twat than it currently appears, the bill could go up.

 

 

Any thoughts on any of the above or any alternative suggestions gratefully received.

Why would you want to take the stub axle out?(It would have to be pressed out of the arm anyway).

You can cut the end of the pipe off and flare a new end on if you're sure you have enough extra length to screw in the new pipe end to the cylinder without straining the pipe.

You could chisel off the mounting screw heads of the old cylinder,but the chisel would have to be small and sharp.

Or you could take the backplate off(4 screws) and drill off the cylinder screws on the bench.

[wuvvum]

I meant to say the trailing arm assembly (soz, long day) - don't know if it can be removed from the axle or not, Haynes seems to think nuns and kittens will die if I attempt it but Haynes isn't always right.

 

Good shout on removing the backplate though - I hadn't even spotted that was a possibility, everything's such a fucking mess of muck and brake fluid in there I couldn't see the screws.  I'll give it a bash tomorrow.  I think there should be enough brake pipe to do a reflare provided I don't fuck it up too many times - the pipe looks home made and like most home made brake pipes there's a bit more tolerance than with an original steel jobbie.

[artdjones]

The trailing arm can be removed but there are a lot of things that can go wrong.

[steveo3002]

INA  car parts (cam belt kit ) are they a trusty brand or stay away?

[artdjones]

If you mean INA ,yes,they are part of Schaeffler ,which includes FAG bearings and LuK clutches.They supply a lot of oe stuff.So should be a trustworthy buy.

[steveo3002]

yeah just edited it ...INA  , so worth getting over dayco?

[artdjones]

Nothing wrong with Dayco,they do oe as well,but certainly INA are good.

[wuvvum]

What size are the bleed nipples on 205s?  It looks like M8 but the one on the old cylinder is so fantastically mullered it's hard to say for sure.

[Scruffy Bodger]

Attempt to remove a 205 bleed nipple very carefully and with a thought about method. If not it could be a real headache drilling it out afterwards or needing a new calliper if that doesn't go well.

[drum]

Do you think solder would fix this diesel fuel line temporarily? 

[wuvvum]

Bleed nipple problem solved - there was one in the box the new cylinder came in, I just hadn't spotted it.

 

Next question:  what size are the brake pipe unions for a 205 rear drum?  "Standard" size ones are too small.

[dave21478]

Do you think solder would fix this diesel fuel line temporarily? 20180520_162317.jpg

 

If its steel you would need to braze it. Personally, I would measure the diameter, cut it and fit a straight join compression fitting.

[Psycho Charlie Knobcheese]

Can anyone advise me if cable ties are MOT passable if used on CV boots?

Did the oil and filter on my Micra today and noticed my nearside boot is split. Only asking as I don't have the tool to tighten the clips but have a big bag of cable ties. MOT is next month and its about the only thing I can see being a problem.

 

Cheers