Ask a Shiter

[LessThanEqual]

LTE, I'd say clear them all and re-scan in a week or so as they could well be historic codes which were never cleared.

 

You'll then know which ones (if any) re-appear after a week of driving/until it next goes into limp mode.

Pretty sure these are the same codes that I've been getting for a year now, a cheap Bluetooth dongle always returned codes P0230 and P0243 after clearing which suggest the same faults as VCDS, albeit not quite accurate.

[sierraman]

Ford mondeo 2.0 tdci on a 54 plate. My dad said it's been a bit stiff going through the box for past couple of days when cold until today when he went to skeg and rang to tell me it had jammed in reverse. Is this going to be linkages or gearbox failure? He's talking of bridging it!

6 speed? Have you checked the oil level? Could be the beginning of the clutch/DMF failing. You can bypass the linkage to see if it's failed, the mechanism sits under the battery on top of the box, see if that allows you to select the gears.

[egg]

can you view french MOT (controle technique) results online?

[twosmoke300]

Id bet the cam timing is out on the ibiza

[5speedracer]

I've got round to buying a cheapo OBD cable for my Ibiza in an attempt to fix the bugger. VCDS lite is giving me these codes:

19464 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) - Signal out of range P3008

18027 - Glow Plug Relay (J52): Open or Short to Ground P1619

17932 - Fuel Pump Relay (J17): Open or Short to Ground P1542 - Intermittent

17957 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open or Short to Ground P1549 -- Intermittent

 

ATD engine code.

 

The car starts fine, glow plug relay can be heard clicking on and off and started fine in cold weather, fuel pump primes fine, all it does is go into limp mode at random (and usually at the worst) times. Sometimes I can chug along up a hill at 50 in 5th without problems, other times it'll go into limp mode just as I'm about to go on the A47 in the outside lane. Any pointers would be appreciated.

Stay away from A47 outside lane seems the answer

 

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[catsinthewelder]

Does anybody know why this Zafira A might have developed an erratic idle? Me and Lord Sterling are taking it up to Yorkshire tomorrow.

[hhhugues]

Might fail for fuel leak if there are puddles around the injectors and on the rocker cover, might also fail a smoke test if the seals are badly gone. Leaky injectors are also costing you power and MPG and will get worse. Refurbed injectors and new sealing washers are the fix, but budget for at least £300.

 

Do as dave says first though, because leaky return lines will only cost a few quid to sort.

 

Edit - it's hard to start? It's the injectors.

 

Thanks, that's really useful. If i'm looking at £300 to sort it, it's just not worth it. I still need to replace the alternator and will need at least a couple tyres and front brakes and pads to get through MOT in May. Pretty sure i can get a better replacement for the £500+ i'm looking at.

 

I'll still check the return lines though - you never know!

 

 

 

 

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[Noel Tidybeard]

Does anybody know why this Zafira A might have developed an erratic idle? Me and Lord Sterling are taking it up to Yorkshire tomorrow.

 

 

icv full of crap if its a petril- two bolts and a blast of carb cleaner may do the job

[LessThanEqual]

Id bet the cam timing is out on the ibiza

I'll see if the cam sensor code comes back today, the other three suggest ECU damage according to my Google-fu. If it comes back I'll get it retimed at a specialist and buy a deimmobilised ECU.

[dave21478]

can you view french MOT (controle technique) results online?

 

No.

 

They only gave up minitel and fax machines a couple of years ago - integrated, public-accessible, useful websites are still probably a decade away.

[Jerzy Woking]

I'm doing my first collection thread tomorrow (losing my virginity so to speak) collecting a £100 Mercedes from 120 miles away (WCPGR).

 

As I want to do it live, I would like to add photos as I go, but try as I might I can't seem to add any, either on the mobile or full site. I'll use a Samsung S5 on Android.

 

Anyone give me easy instructions on how I can do this? Thank you.

[Eddie Honda]

Use full site.

 

You just do what you on a desktop...

[LessThanEqual]

I'm doing my first collection thread tomorrow (losing my virginity so to speak) collecting a £100 Mercedes from 120 miles away (WCPGR).

 

As I want to do it live, I would like to add photos as I go, but try as I might I can't seem to add any, either on the mobile or full site. I'll use a Samsung S5 on Android.

 

Anyone give me easy instructions on how I can do this? Thank you.

Might be easier to upload to Imgur and paste the links in here.

[The Moog]

Tapatalk is easy to upload photos to

[LessThanEqual]

Right, I've taken my Ibiza on a 140 mile run, driven in a spirited manner and it went into limp mode three times. Only threw two codes:

17932 - Fuel Pump Relay (J17): Open or Short to Ground P1542 - Intermittent

17957 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open or Short to Ground P1549 -- Intermittent

 

Dodgy earth somewhere or ECU malfunction? More searching online does suggest it's a bad ECU especially with the ATD engine.

[cobblers]

The n75 valves are common for failing on that era VAG stuff, I'd look at that before the ECU.

Could be dry joints or an iffy output device in the ECU though, both the fuel pump relay and the n75 valve are fairly high current outputs, they might even come out of the same chip tbh

[panhard65]

Ecu's don't give much trouble so it is more likely to be anything else first. In 30 years in the trade I doubt I have fitted more than half a dozen ecu;s  Has it been read with a decent code reader and checked with live data. A lot of cheap readers will give wrong codes and no live data. If you still think ECU send it to BBA Reman for testing as they have been reconning ecu's for years and know their stuff.

[LessThanEqual]

The n75 valves are common for failing on that era VAG stuff, I'd look at that before the ECU.

Could be dry joints or an iffy output device in the ECU though, both the fuel pump relay and the n75 valve are fairly high current outputs, they might even come out of the same chip tbh

This car doesn't have a lone N75 valve, it's an all-in-one jobbie vacuum block which runs multiple things. The two things must share a common ground as the two codes are always thrown at the same time.

 

 

Ecu's don't give much trouble so it is more likely to be anything else first. In 30 years in the trade I doubt I have fitted more than half a dozen ecu;s  Has it been read with a decent code reader and checked with live data. A lot of cheap readers will give wrong codes and no live data. If you still think ECU send it to BBA Reman for testing as they have been reconning ecu's for years and know their stuff.

I've checked it with VCDS Lite and that's what it spat out, but I am by no means a professional. I don't think there is much point of sending it off for diagnosis as a replacement ECU is only £50 on eBay then again it could be of dubious quality. I say it's ECU because that's all I can find regarding these codes at the same time.

.

[twosmoke300]

Wouldn't trust bba these days - I've had better results from ecutesting .

As Panhard says - very unlikely to be the ecu

[twosmoke300]

Oh and a 50 quid ecu would need to be coded to the car / immobiliser would it not

[cobblers]

Yeah you'd need to knock the immo off the new ecu, it wouldn't work if you just plugged it in.

ECUtesting seem like a reputable outfit.

[Lord Sterling]

Does anybody know why this Zafira A might have developed an erratic idle? Me and Lord Sterling are taking it up to Yorkshire tomorrow.

IMG_20170317_105513205.jpg

Well, we made it there without a hitch. It cut out twice on me, both whilst still in the Midlands. Temperature guage didn't seem to be able sit in one place, but didn't go much further than just over half way.

[LessThanEqual]

Oh and a 50 quid ecu would need to be coded to the car / immobiliser would it not

 

Yeah you'd need to knock the immo off the new ecu, it wouldn't work if you just plugged it in.

ECUtesting seem like a reputable outfit.

The £50 ECUs are allegedly immobiliser deleted.

[cobblers]

fair doos, Immo off is a ten minute job if you've got the tackle and have your head round it so that doesn't seem unreasonable tbh.

[Dave_Q]

It still has an N75 on the hose between the vacuum block and the turbo.

[wuvvum]

Mondeo question.  Well two in fact.

 

1. What kind of code reader is likely to be able to communicate with a 2002 TDCi?  My cheapo one obviously won't, but I don't know if some slightly more sophisticated off-the-shelf models would?  Without going to a Ford main dealer obvs.  When my Vectra DTI shat its crank sensor, the AA's code reader would connect to the car but wouldn't find any fault codes, and I would imagine that would be a fairly expensive one.

 

2. I'm struggling to diagnose the problem from the symptoms.  The glow plug light is flashing, but that doesn't help much.  The obvious answer with a TDCi is a knackered injector, just as any cooling issue with a K series automatically gets diagnosed as HGF.  From what I've read about dying injectors though, they first start causing trouble under heavy acceleration, which this one didn't - until it went into limp mode it was still going like a scalded cat with no problems at all.  Also switching it off and restarting usually clears the fault from what I've read, which mine isn't - I've even disconnected the battery for a couple of hours, but hte only effect that had was to reactivate the automatic locking and reset the temp display to °F.

 

I didn't actually notice the point it went into limp mode as I was just rolling along a B road at 50-60 in a line of traffic, and under those conditions it's really not noticeable (it's a lot less "limpy" than limp mode was on the Vectra), so I can't pinpoint anything that may have caused it.

 

Main symptoms are thus:  It's an absolute twat to start from cold, loads of cranking and smoke, but it does eventually go.  When it fires up it will eventually settle down to a reasonably smooth idle, but it then won't rev above 1,500rpm.  Leave it to warm up for five minutes or so, give it another rev and, after a bit of chugging at 1,500, it'll then rev to the redline, and as it warms up the 1,500rpm flat spot more or less disappears.  It has no power though - it feels normal-ish driving on a very light throttle (apart from noticeable diesel knock), but flooring it makes little or no difference.  It'll still do 70, but takes its sweet time getting there, and fuel consumption is through the roof (I reckon it's barely managing 40 to the gallon at the moment).

 

My first TDCi Mondeo had a similarly unresponsive throttle when I bought it, and that turned out to be a split turbo hose, but that didn't put the coil light on and it also started fine from cold, so I don't think it's that.

[cort16]

Blocked fuel filter?  

[sierraman]

Sometimes it is the filter, use a genuine one. Unfortunately I'd doubt it though. Check the cam sensor, these are only cheap, I've a known good one you can have, if it's the black one these were prone to giving trouble, you replace it with a grey one. Located on the cylinder head as you look at it above the inlet manifold.

 

If it was the boost hose it would be smoking like shit. Restarting wouldn't help.

 

More likely I'd say is a failing fuel pump. When these fuck up they invariably take the injectors with them. It's difficult to say which is fucked, I've known people spend a grand fitting new injectors then find out the pumps bollocksed.

 

If you were a remorseless bugger you could get the injectors recoded, sometimes this causes the symptoms you have - the injectors have only a predesigned number of times they fire before they go haywire. This can work but it's just staving off the inevitable. Might make it run well enough to sell though. Personally speaking, unless you like losing a lot of money, I'd either move it on or break it up for spares. These aren't too bad in respect of the latter as there's a ready market for the bits for them, and if the cats the original (likely) it's worth a few bob.

[twosmoke300]

Flashing mil on a diesel is an emission related fault . Usually an egr fault or map/ maf sensor issue . Boost leak maybe ? They love to split a boost hose those

[alf892]

Is the dual mass noisey?