The new news 24 thread

[lesapandre]

Just got the new V5C on a new car from DVLA - 'Number of Former Keepers'....9...on a 2004 car 😂 Changing hands every two years...

[bramz7]

I'm owner 11 on the 172, but on a hot hatch that is fairly normal right?

 

Anyway, 156 driven down to Ferndown today for its mammoth work session. I had felt a bit blah about the cost in the last few days but driving it actually made those feelings disappear. It's a very nice car to drive, and feels tight where it counts. It will be great to have a properly functioning steering rack though! 

[SiC]

17 minutes ago, lesapandre said:

Just got the new V5C on a new car from DVLA - 'Number of Former Keepers'....9...on a 2004 car 😂 Changing hands every two years...

That's just getting started for many AS bike cars. 

[Popsicle]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

That's just getting started for many AS bike cars. 

We're the 14th owners of the forum bike yellow SLK, I'm sure there are much higher counts kicking around.

[Bren]

15 hours ago, SiC said:

Soooo transmission fluid and mechatronic seal change on my E90 330i ZF 6HP gearbox. I've been putting this off for a while as it's a pia job being on your back. To be honest, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be in the end.

Car jacked up. Probably the bit that always takes me the longest. Faff in getting the stands in the right place when lowering and making sure it's stable. Double PIA getting both ends up and level. It's not actually level in this photo - my drive has a slope. Later on I level off for the fluid top off.

Panels off over the filter & pan. Yes it's a plastic pan.

The exhaust mount has a bolt in the middle to clamp together. This sheered off. Stupid aluminium (or something non ferrous) mount and bolt. Ended up drilling this out later and sticking a bolt through the top and a nut+split washer on the other side. Mostly as dissimilar metals may seize together and having a nut on a replacement bolt has some chance of it being removable in the future if needed.

Undid the fill port first. This is a 8mm hex and needed an awful lot of force to crack it off. I couldn't get a ratchet in there at all. Later on when I tightened it up, I couldn't get a torque wrench in so did it as tight as I could...

Drained from the drain port first (10mm hex) and then dropped one end of the pan to remove the last lot.

Filter was date coded 2005. So almost certainly factory. Fluid didn't look too bad. Apparently changed 6 to 12 months before I bought it. I think that would make it around 8k miles. Dirty but nothing tragically awful from what I can tell.

Mechatronics (valve body) off. This needed the electrical connector disconnecting on the outside, white plastic tab pulling down on the mechatronics and removing the connector seal. Some say this is a nightmare to do. However I could get my hands in with a bit of a squish? Maybe those doing videos on this have massive hands? (I'm used to putting hands in awkward places as I often drop bolts and such, needing retrieval!)

The seals are on top. The big double D seal is the main line pressure port. These can split. Mine hasn't (I forgot to take a picture of it) however the o-ring was all deformed. Obviously leaks from here is sub optimal as the gearbox ECU needs to compensate the lost pressure by bumping up the force & time with the solenoids to the clutches+brakes.

The four other seals compress over time and leak. These were removed with a pick. A tad fiddly and for a bit I was concerned they weren't coming out. Did eventually and I just needed to be careful I didn't go through and scratch the bore.

You can see here the seal length difference. New left, old right. Not massive but enough that they can leak fluid when pressure is being driven through those ports. These ports go up to the clutches and brake bands. So not somewhere you want pressurised fluid to escape from. 

With the new ones all in, you can see them sticking out slightly. This is what they should be like and get compressed when the valve body is out back on. I pushed hard to make sure they were fully seated. All I soaked in some old ATF to lube them up. 

Valve body reattached - 10 bolts and all the ones for removal are Torx #40 to make it easy to know which. These need to be reattached in a specific order to ensure even clamping. Also a piddly 8nm. I bought a specific low range torque wrench to do this as you absolutely don't want to cock this up, let alone risk stripping a thread. Box will likely be scrap if you do that. 

Also the shifter sensor needs lining up with the shifter metal post. Mine was actually out of alignment at first. Easy to move around and correct but definitely don't want to find out/remember you haven't done it when it's all buttoned up!

External electrical connector pushed in just fine - again easier that I could get my hand in. 

New filter looks very similar to the old. The filter is moulded into the pan and replaced as one. 24 bolts to reattach this pan and again they need to be done in a specific order. Being plastic, they're very prone to warping and risk leakage. Something you definitely don't want as low fluid the transmission ECU won't know but will bugger the box from pumping air. Torque is a tiny 10nm per bolt. Again my new torque wrench is essential here to do the job properly.

I called it quits for the night at that point and started again today in daylight.

Not many photos today but tbh the refill isn't very exciting.

First thing I did was remove the pan again. I really didn't want to do this and risk warping the pan, but I wasn't fully happy that I didn't knock the big double-d seal when mounting the mechatronics. I didn't align the mechatronics unit properly at first and took a few attempts while trying to get one bolt in and started. However looking through my photos of the night before, I realised the double-d seal is right next to the filter port. So I could easily see the seal even with the mechatronics in place. 

This is what you're looking at here. The black thing in the middle is that double-d seal. Looks bang on in place to me.

I did level the car off. Turned out dropping the back stands by one position got the level absolutely nailed on.

For refilling I bought this thing. Uses compressed air from my little Lidl compressor to charge it. You can get hand pump ones but as I have a compressor, this made more sense. Absolute god send and filled 4 litres of fluid in less than a minute at 30psi.

Refill is not as complicated as many make it out to be. First fill is with engine off - took about 4 litres. You start the cold engine and then top up till it leaks out the fill port. This was around 3 litres. 

You run the gearbox up to temperature and cycle through PRND a few times. I kept topping up during this and putting the drain plug back in. At 40c (read using a scantool) you check the level by removing the plug and it should be a slow stream apparently. Once that's done, you put the fill plug in properly and shut down the engine. If the transmission fluid gets to 50c, you need to shutdown and wait for it to cool off. Tbh that pressure filler was by far quick enough that I had to wait a fair bit to get to 40c anyway - even at ~25c ambient temperatures.

In total I think I put in around 8 litres. I bought 10 litres but that seems to be overkill. Maybe I'll do another fluid change in 10k miles or so. Just fluid, not filter.

I was supposed to be going to the gym tonight and I really didn't want to miss a session. So I quickly packed up, put the panels back on underneath and dropped the car down. Got changed and went out to the gym as a combined test drive!

Knocked a great session out, despite being tired from rolling around on my back. Then came back and checked for leaks. 

I couldn't see any where the gearbox was. The oil stain I think was from my Spitfire when I took that over last week 🤣🙈

So how does it shift gears now?

Erm well not too much different! 🙃

Actually that's not entirely true, it doesn't flare between changes when in manual mode (albeit I almost never use manual normally). Changes do feel a bit smoother but not completely imperceivable. The bump you get when stopped as it goes into neutral has gone away. Pulling off there still is a slight pause but I haven't tried that too much yet.

However it's still early days. The gearbox adapts to internal wear and now the pressure lines are different, it needs time for it to adapt to its new world. You can reset adaptations - often recommend on forums. However it's NOT recommended by ZF, BMW and xHP (a gearbox remapping company) if you haven't rebuilt the box. Basically the adaptations are purely for internal wear as it ages. By resetting them you're putting back to factory. So it needs to then readapt for the wear. However this can cause additional wear in the box as it does this. Even worse, if the box internals are worn enough, it may never be able to shift properly enough to regain the adaptations. 

So it's basically safer to just keep driving as is and let it adapt itself over time. I've taken notes of the old adaptions and will be interesting to see what they're at in a few hundred miles. 

The good news is basically that it's still working just fine! Hopefully this job will prolong the life of the car for much longer period. These seals and BMWs filled for life ATF (ZF say change every 60k) are the major Achilles Heel of the box. The rest actually seems pretty robust and easily can do big miles if these bits are taken care of. 🤞

I'm also seriously considering remapping the gearbox with xHP. 3 stages and I'll probably keep with stage 1. This is slightly quicker shifts but the shift points are lower to aid fuel economy. Stage 3 is nearly DSG speed shifts and great for tuned engines but also increases wear - all stuff that doesn't bother me. Stage 2 is in-between with reduced 0-60 time but not as aggressive as stage 3 and again I'm not bothered too much about out and out performance. Also I might disable the neutral shift when stationary - reduces wear in the box and speeds up pulling off, just with a higher fuel consumption when idling (as the box is in gear). Interestingly BMW/ZF have two main gearbox maps - standard and Alpina. The Alpina map is faster shifting and basically what xHP have based their stuff on. 

On my e60 a fluid change improved matters but not as much as I hoped. I reset the adaptations using an icarsoft and the box was 100% better - the icarsoft showed the pressure for the clutch packs and all were in spec.

[Bren]

I did the diesel filter on the mondeo. As cleanliness is next to godliness I made use of compressed air before removing anything other than the retaining screws.

Once the crash cover is off you can remove the electrical plug and the four screws. You will need a couple of small pry bars to get the housing away from the body. You will need to go easy - it wouldn't take much to break the thing - and don't be tempted to pull on the pipes.

The old one was dirty and due for a change. The filter just pulls off.

I gave the new o ring a smear of diesel before pushing it all back in. It will only go so far - you will need to tighten the four screws squarely to pull it down.

The car took a bit of cranking before it started but at least it's not like the earlier mk IV's where the filter is under the rear and you have to bleed the thing before it will start.

[richardmorris]

1. I’ve just ordered tyres for the TIPO for fitting Monday. I think it was 2019 last time I needed daily tyres for the merc. F1. Auto centre was cheapest for the goodyear efficient grip performance . £112 each 215 55 17 v

Don’t know where the 1.  Came from?

 

 

car is approaching 29,000 miles. Tread ok on the back and legal on the front . But cracking was an advisory on the mot in March.

[SiC]

5 hours ago, Bren said:

On my e60 a fluid change improved matters but not as much as I hoped. I reset the adaptations using an icarsoft and the box was 100% better - the icarsoft showed the pressure for the clutch packs and all were in spec.

Mine are still in spec but only just on clutch E. Hence my apprehension at resetting the adaptations. I have read these boxes will still shift normally at +/- 700mbar. 

ZF tolerances:

My box:

 

13 hours ago, JakeT said:

The e clutch is the real weakness on these gearboxes.

I don't think it's a weakness as such, just gets used the most out of all the clutch packs in normal driving. Especially as most of the time, apart from city driving, it'll in 4th gear and up from pretty much 30mph. 

[SiC]

Just been out for another drive in my 330i. Seems to still shift just fine. Some shifts aren't buttery smooth but definitely not awful. Definitely not worse though and given the seals+filter are definitely factory, it makes the job worthwhile.

Sport mode is definitely crisper though. Less flaring and virtually no shunting on changes. Before it was quite unpleasant, especially for passengers. I don't use sport mode that often but it is useful on country roads to keep the box in a livelier state in the expectation of doing an overtake imminently. Kick down does get the box into sport mode temporarily (albeit no visual indication) but it does fall back into normal programming quite quickly if you let off. So behind a 40mph dawdler, you can find it's already back into 5th or 6th gear and off the boil...

Shifts are pretty quick and I have a feeling it might not even need to sequentially go down gears like an older box. However there is still a few fractions of a second before it's back down to give you all the power. Hence sport mode is useful for me in overtakes as it keeps it on the boil for longer.

[Split_Pin]

Sounds good enough to me!

[dome]

Thanks for the write-up @SiC

There's no history of the 730d having had a fluid change but the box feels fine, certainly better than my 530d with similar miles did before I got it serviced. 

It's not like I can really do a fluid change only as it's expensive stuff, I'd be as well doing filter too, and if I'm in there do the seals the same as you. Mission creep ahoy.

I guess the sensible thing would be to pop the fill plug out and check the level and condition of the fluid and take it from there. 

[SiC]

6 minutes ago, dome said:

Thanks for the write-up @SiC

There's no history of the 730d having had a fluid change but the box feels fine, certainly better than my 530d with similar miles did before I got it serviced. 

It's not like I can really do a fluid change only as it's expensive stuff, I'd be as well doing filter too, and if I'm in there do the seals the same as you. Mission creep ahoy.

I guess the sensible thing would be to pop the fill plug out and check the level and condition of the fluid and take it from there. 

First thing I reckon is to read the adaptation values as it's easy to - any decent scantool should be able to do it. Or if you have a DCAN cable & OTG USB cable with an android phone, you can use xHP Flash Tool. Comparing with the ZF values, it should give a good indication of the condition of the seals and clutch packs. If very high values (+/- 500mbar+) then perhaps it's probably not worth putting money into that box. Especially as they're readily available second hand in good condition for not much more than the seal+fluid kits (which you'd want to service before fitting anyway).

I did debate strongly about doing mine as it shifted absolutely fine on the whole, as I didn't want to make it worse. However now I know it was all factory, I'm pleased I did as old fluid isn't good and the seals are a weak point. Far better to change these parts when the box is not broken from being worn out because they've not been changed!

[NigeT]

Didn't miss a beat on drive up to Scotland, was heavy on the accelerator & still managed 55mpg. Until it does an N47 will be a keeper. 

[plasticvandan]

This forums changed man,when I joined it was people making their own hydragas pumps,now people are programming gearboxes😅

[Split_Pin]

My brain has too much activity in the wrong places.  What's the car in this picture?

The design of the Transport Museum frontage places it in the mid to late 1980s and the tired condition of the car ties in with that.

At first I thought Fiat 125 but the door/wing line is too rakish, the 125 was slab-sided. It's not a colour I think a 130 would have been available in plus I never ever saw one growing up.

Too big and shark nosed for a BL product.

Wheels are not BMW.

It's not a Simca 1301 as their front doors have a more vertical leading edge, this one curves back more.

What is it?

[Jazoli]

Soundproofing/noise reduction day on the Ateca today.

There’s a lot of road/tyre noise in the cabin at motorway speeds and it annoys me so I’ve decided to do something about it…

Disassembling has begun

got most of the interior at the rear stripped out

hardly any soundproofing on the rear arches and nothing on the inner of the rear wings or in the doors..

to be updated as the day progresses, I will say it’s a easy car to pull to bits, no broken clips or particularly difficult bits so far

 

Edit, no more pics as I just cracked on and was done and all back together by 11.30, been for a test drive and the car is definitely quieter now, I might do the front at some point but I don’t know if I can be arsed as it means removing the centre console.

I’m happy with the difference it has made for a few hours and 40 quid in materials, I should have done a before and after with the DB app on my phone but forgot to do that also!

[High Jetter]

21 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

My brain has too much activity in the wrong places.  What's the car in this picture?

The design of the Transport Museum frontage places it in the mid to late 1980s and the tired condition of the car ties in with that.

At first I thought Fiat 125 but the door/wing line is too rakish, the 125 was slab-sided. It's not a colour I think a 130 would have been available in plus I never ever saw one growing up.

Too big and shark nosed for a BL product.

Wheels are not BMW.

It's not a Simca 1301 as their front doors have a more vertical leading edge, this one curves back more.

What is it?

Fiat 132?

[Split_Pin]

1 minute ago, High Jetter said:

Fiat 132?

Fiat 132 was more square and had thicker door frames in body colour.

[MrBiscuits]

23 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

My brain has too much activity in the wrong places.  What's the car in this picture?

The design of the Transport Museum frontage places it in the mid to late 1980s and the tired condition of the car ties in with that.

At first I thought Fiat 125 but the door/wing line is too rakish, the 125 was slab-sided. It's not a colour I think a 130 would have been available in plus I never ever saw one growing up.

Too big and shark nosed for a BL product.

Wheels are not BMW.

It's not a Simca 1301 as their front doors have a more vertical leading edge, this one curves back more.

What is it?

Looking at the wheel and that seam on the front panel, I'd say BL 1100/1300. Angle of the front edge is a bit weird but that could be the camera 

[Split_Pin]

11 minutes ago, MrBiscuits said:

Looking at the wheel and that seam on the front panel, I'd say BL 1100/1300. Angle of the front edge is a bit weird but that could be the camera 

I agree, it's weird how old cameras distorted items at the periphery. I'd hoped it was something more exotic like a Fiat or Simca!

[Zelandeth]

1 hour ago, Split_Pin said:

My brain has too much activity in the wrong places.  What's the car in this picture?

The design of the Transport Museum frontage places it in the mid to late 1980s and the tired condition of the car ties in with that.

At first I thought Fiat 125 but the door/wing line is too rakish, the 125 was slab-sided. It's not a colour I think a 130 would have been available in plus I never ever saw one growing up.

Too big and shark nosed for a BL product.

Wheels are not BMW.

It's not a Simca 1301 as their front doors have a more vertical leading edge, this one curves back more.

What is it?

Moscovich 412?

[JeeExEll]

For mystery yellow car have a look at the 63 - 65ish Fiat 1100D. Just a guess but have no time to check it out further right now. Can't remember how to post pics on here. If anyone wants to check it out further  . . .

The ADO16 is so close ,I think that's what it is. It was my first thought but then I thought Mystery had a square fronted bonnet.

Wonder if it's still around. Seen worse.

[Popsicle]

2 hours ago, Jazoli said:

Soundproofing/noise reduction day on the Ateca today.

There’s a lot of road/tyre noise in the cabin at motorway speeds and it annoys me so I’ve decided to do something about it…

Disassembling has begun

got most of the interior at the rear stripped out

hardly any soundproofing on the rear arches and nothing on the inner of the rear wings or in the doors..

to be updated as the day progresses, I will say it’s a easy car to pull to bits, no broken clips or particularly difficult bits so far

 

 

Oh I love a good sound deadening session, what kit you using Mr?

[Jazoli]

1 hour ago, Popsicle said:

Oh I love a good sound deadening session, what kit you using Mr?

Just some generic 2mm butyl self adhesive sheets, all done now, forgot to take more pics.

[Popsicle]

1 minute ago, Jazoli said:

Just some generic 2mm butyl self adhesive sheets, all done now, forgot to take more pics.

Is it so quiet that you can only hear the ticking of the clock?

[Jazoli]

Just now, Popsicle said:

Is it so quiet that you can only hear the ticking of the clock?

Don’t be silly it’s a VAG dagdag!

[Popsicle]

15 minutes ago, Jazoli said:

Don’t be silly it’s a VAG dagdag!

You need to buy a louder clock 😂.

[WillCarter]

Been struggling to get stock the past couple of weeks but just struck up a deal with one of my neighbouring dealers to take on all of his cheap and P/X stock so that he can concentrate on what he enjoys selling, namely American, Performance and Luxury cars. Nothing overly exciting among them, other than this which might tickle a couple of your fancies. 

Mazda 323F GSi Auto 1.8 with a genuine 50-something K on the clock. Just been prepped for an MOT so will come with a full ticket too. 

Not an easy thing to price but being an Auto I'll probably chuck it up for £1995 and see how we go.

[Tayne]

1 hour ago, Popsicle said:

Is it so quiet that you can only hear the ticking of the clock?

Never understood why Rolls Royce used to fit such a loud clock.

[SiC]

5 hours ago, plasticvandan said:

This forums changed man,when I joined it was people making their own hydragas pumps,now people are programming gearboxes😅

Problem is, once you've built one hydralastic/hydragas pump, you don't need to make another!

It's nearly 7 years ago since I owned the purple one and had to make a pump.

 

 

I've kept it as I am a compulsive hoarder expect to buy another ADO16 in the future.