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Posted

I have been treating the rear under tray of my Fusion with some Kurust this afternoon, it has surface rust along by the exhaust and rear hook. Pictured below conversion in action. What should I paint over the Kurust with in this area? Thanks.

 

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Posted

I have been treating the rear under tray of my Fusion with some Kurust this afternoon, it has surface rust along by the exhaust and rear hook. Pictured below conversion in action. What should I paint over the Kurust with in this area? Thanks.

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If it's converted and gone off properly I'd just paint some stone chip or underseal over it. Or some of that spray on aerosol wax from Bilt Hamber. Anything really just to give it some protection.

Posted

This morning, I saw the Rover for the last time. It was dragged away for scrap while I was out on bus duty, so there was just an empty space where it had been when I got back. Feeling a bit glum, which suggests I liked it more than I thought I did. I know it was generally a bit rubbish, but it wasn't very far from being a working car. I guess stuff far more road ready gets scrapped every day though. I think this is why I don't usually scrap cars. I'd rather sell them on and dream that they're still running around joyously somewhere. Apart from the Sirion. Conrad's cartoon still haunts me.

Posted

Purchased today for the focii -

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£15 the pair from my local factor. I will fit them tomorrow.

 

I gave the car a wash as it had'nt been cleaned for weeks

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Despite its advancing years it was miles better than the shite we viewed to replace it.

Posted

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Picture of clean focii which I should have attached to earlier post.

  • Like 2
Posted

Might be mad but ordered a towbar for the citroen ZX last friday. It was coming from Poland and turned up today, pretty impressed with that. Now got to find the time to fit it and then look for a suitable cheap trailer tent for adventures next year.

Cheap trailer tent you say?

 

I might have something right up your street.....

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Purchased today for the focii -

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£15 the pair from my local factor. I will fit them tomorrow.

 

I gave the car a wash as it had'nt been cleaned for weeks

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Despite its advancing years it was miles better than the shite we viewed to replace it.

Odds of air filter being correct - 5/1

Odds of wet footwells after pollen filter change - evens

Posted

Took the puma for a hoon over the moors earlier, love the gearchange, steering feel and general scruff of the neck chuckability of it. It's all the more noticeable as the other vehicles are barges basically. Had a bit more of a prod about underneath, and it's generally pretty tidy with sone neat welding ( suprise suprise ) at the back of the sills. Current plans are an oil change and a dunk in some bilt hamber s50.post-4673-0-82866700-1474576405_thumb.jpgpost-4673-0-49946200-1474576431_thumb.jpg

 

In shonky jag news I decided putting it onto pre 2001 font dealer plates for originality is a bit at odds with its scruffy well used feel. Instead I kept the noughties vibe by keeping the post 2001 font plates and had some of those cheapo cover labels that traders sometimes use to avoid the expense of a new plate set. I then decided as it was an east end car originally, it later passed through a dealer I've dreamt up that would be a bit of a diamond geezah with a fondness for dodgy old jags.

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Posted

Cheap trailer tent you say?

 

I might have something right up your street.....

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 Details please

Posted

This morning I have purchased a used but silent torque tube to replace the rattly one on the 944.

  • Like 2
Posted

My Mercedes 190e is running like a little sewing machine at the moment.  New ball joints have been fitted and I'd say it's running better than any other 190e that I've seen.

 

With this in mind, I'm actively looking to sell it at the moment and downsize.  This entails agreeing to buy something else not only to replace the 190, but doing so before the sale of the first car has even happened.  It's also larger than its predecessor.  Classic.

 

ALSO: I think I'm buying from the best vendor ever who, when I raised concern over surface corrosion, went and took the car for an MOT yesterday just to be on the safe side.  "I want to know what I'm selling is good" he says, and so he shelled out to the ministry for peace of mind.

 

Christ only knows when I'm going to be able to collect it, but it'll be in the next week or so.  Just trying to work out how to get there!

  • Like 3
Posted

My Mercedes 190e is running like a little sewing machine at the moment.  New ball joints have been fitted and I'd say it's running better than any other 190e that I've seen.

 

With this in mind, I'm actively looking to sell it at the moment and downsize.  This entails agreeing to buy something else not only to replace the 190, but doing so before the sale of the first car has even happened.  It's also larger than its predecessor.  Classic.

 

ALSO: I think I'm buying from the best vendor ever who, when I raised concern over surface corrosion, went and took the car for an MOT yesterday just to be on the safe side.  "I want to know what I'm selling is good" he says, and so he shelled out to the ministry for peace of mind.

 

Christ only knows when I'm going to be able to collect it, but it'll be in the next week or so.  Just trying to work out how to get there!

I would have mentioned the paint chips and top end rattle - he might have it resprayed and the engine rebuilt.

  • Like 1
Posted

When you decide to spend your day off replacing the front lower arms on your Sierra base and you can't find your blowtorch to help release the tightest nut in history.

 

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Eventually got the bastard off with a combination of the weed burner and a length of scaffold tube on the end of my biggest breaker bar. After 2.5 hours struggling with it, one new arm is on. 

 

What a fucker of a job! Still, it now drives much better with no more of that awful clonking under braking. Also found the cause of the rumbling over 50mph, there's a decent amount of play in the front wheel bearing on the passenger side so that will need doing at some stage (probably both sides to be fair).

Posted

wow, was it the original arm? keep an eye on the big bush in the centre for the arb, on new arms the rubber is shite and ive had them fail less than 1000 miles. poly ones are available cheaply enough though, when you do the wheel bearings make sure youve got a torque wrench that does charles atlas spec as they torque up very high

Posted

Arent sierra front bearings taper rollers? ie just nipped up

 

Edit they look like the rear ones on fiestas and old escorts - two taper bearings with a shoulder between them and therefore reamed up is correct

Posted

They were both original Ford arms and didn't look like they'd ever been touched. Despite this, they did fail the MoT in 2006 but the bushes on these were so knackered I find it hard to believe that they were actually replaced at that time. The ones I'm fitting are NOS good quality ones (AP and Borg&Beck) so hopefully will last a decent amount of time? I've had plenty of issues with shit modern repro rubber parts so purposely bought NOS.

Posted

Basically, almost every major steering, suspension or mechanical component on this car is or was original and completely worn out as it's a 152k, 33 year old Sierra that's spent most of its life crashing over London speed bumps in the hands of an owner who refused to spend any money on it.

Posted

Just ordered the bits to sort the Porsche out £275 for a clutch kit and £570 for an IMS bearing and rear main oil seal. The old bearing had better be on its way out spending this much on it as it is supposed to be a weak point and should be done when the 'box is out.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'd love to see a post about how you do an IMS bearing. Plenty of cheap Boxsters around where owners run away from them on IMS bearings.

 

Mid-engined German roadsters I thought would be very unfriendly to work on.

Posted

I drove my Panda to work today via rush hour traffic. It didn't break down and nothing fell off, much to my surprise to be honest.

  • Like 3
Posted

Sent Civic for MOT today, got phone call at work. Phail. Threw £200 worth of repairs at it, passed and collected this afternoon.

 

Can't wait to have a proper car on the road again...

Posted

I not got my car today and fiance wanted take her 3 kids and my teenager to fast food resturant so i fired up my steed

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Posted

I've had a frustratingly unproductive day - had a list of jobs to get done and managed to do hardly any of them.  I got started later than planned as when I took the boat out yesterday (for the first time in ages) I noticed that large areas of varnish on the transom were peeling off and the wood was no longer protected, so first thing this morning I had to scrape the loose varnish off and revarnish the exposed areas, which took a while.  Then it took me ages to fit a replacement pedal to my folding bike, chiefly due to me being a twat and forgetting that left pedals are reverse threaded.

 

After much arsing about I finally managed to get the brake drum off the Rover, but I couldn't see anything that was obviously sticking - the handbrake operates the trailing brake shoe, but the footbrake operates it too and it doesn't stick on when I use the footbrake, so it obviously isn't the shoe that's seized.  There isn't really much else in the way of handbrake mechanism inside the drum - and it must be inside the drum that the binding is happening as otherwise twatting the drum with a hammer wouldn't release it.  I lubed the cable up, but couldn't see much else I could do.  Whilst trying to work out exactly which bits moved where, I pressed the brake pedal like a mong, which caused the unrestrained shoes to immediately self-adjust right to their limit, so I then had to piss about with the self-adjusting mechanism to de-adjust them enough to get the drum back on.  Eventually got everything back together, and would you believe it the handbrake is sticking on just as much as it was before.  So not quite sure where to go from here.

 

Next job was to get the coolant pipe that goes into the bottom of the Volvo's water pump bolted into place.  I hadn't been able to persuade it to line up by hand, but I thought jacking it into place should work.  It didn't.  The pipe is curved, and trying to lift it with the jack basically just pulled it sideways.  I tried putting a screwdriver against the bump around the bolt hole and jacking the screwdriver, but that didn't work either.  The first attempt just resulted in it pulling the jack across the floor; the second attempt got the angle a bit closer but it was actually starting to lift the weight of the car off its springs (before the screwdriver slipped and the whole thing collapsed) - and even then the bolt holes still weren't lined up.  There must be a way of getting the thing into position, but it's got me stumped so far.  The pipe is in there pretty firmly, but it's basically only held in by the rubber seal, and I don't think having a push fit pipe in a pressurised cooling system is a very good idea.

 

I didn't even get time to start on the brake pipe replacement on the Rover, so that's going to have to wait until the morning (along with the second coat of varnish on the boat).  I'd also hoped to do a run to the dump this afternoon, but that didn't happen either - although I did find out that as long as I'm only dumping normal household waste (not trader or DIY waste), I can go in the van without getting charged - which is good as I didn't fancy heaving the washing machine into the back of the CX.

 

To add to the fun, the MGF appears to have sprung a water leak - I was driving to Norwich this evening and noticed the temp gauge had passed its usual one-notch-below-half position and was slowly heading northwards.  I pulled over into a layby and noticed a trail of water drops following the car in.  Looked underneath and water was dripping steadily from somewhere in the middle of the car (couldn't tell exactly where as there's an undertray and the water was coming off that).  I tipped the litre of water that I always carry in the boot of any K-series powered vehicle into the expansion tank, turned round and headed home - I then topped the system right up and it nommed about half a gallon, so it must have been dripping for a while.  I then took it for a 15-mile drive to check that there were no more serious issues, and it behaved perfectly, which was a relief - although I'm still going to have to investigate where the leak is coming from, which has added to my list of jobs to try and fit in over the weekend.  Strangely, even when the coolant level was low enough that the engine was running hotter than normal, the heater was still blowing warm - although I suppose on an F the heater matrix is closer to the rad than the engine is.

Posted

Bottom of the rad, thermostat housing, coolant pipe along the back of the block and the expansion tank have all been recommended to me as points of water escaping on any K series engine.  I've experienced the first two, seen the third and heard plenty of stories of the fourth being down to crap manufacture cracking the seams when the tank is under pressure.

 


Sent Civic for MOT today, got phone call at work. Phail. Threw £200 worth of repairs at it, passed and collected this afternoon.
 
£200 MoT fail?  What on earth did it need?  The thing's only five minutes old.

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