What

[The Moog]

Mitsubishi Space Wagon - discuss ,

any info, comments ,opinions ???

 

anyone own one ? Reliable ?? Shite or Shit ??

  

80s or 90s type?

Either way, if it's lasted this long chances are it's been well cared for.

Know someone who had a Space Runner (SWB version of the 90s Space Wagon, basically. With only one sliding rear door, on the passenger side, for extra WIN) for years, and it seemed very reliable. Replaced with a Xsara Pickarsehole which, errrr, wasn't.

  

Great things. Miss my space runner. Insurance change of whatever blew it out of classic cover is the only reason it went.

  

2.4 Engine

Basically this or a Grandis ???

[blackbird]

yeah , so basically a Space wagon 2001 Petrol 2.4 or a derv Gradis 2005ish ??

[Tadhg Tiogar]

.....Buy a good soldering iron once and you will never have to buy another again. A good iron will suddenly make soldering so much easier and you'll suddenly find it's not that hard.

 

Cheap irons just can't get enough heat to the tips quick enough and the tips themselves are crap quality.

 

My personal setup is two Wellers. They weren't cheap but I bought them when I was back in Uni (~2008) and I don't regret it. If I was buying now I'd choose the Hakko......

 

I use an 18w and a 25w by Antex for building model locomotives and rolling stock, as well as the odd electrical repair. I've had them for years, and the spares backup is quite good.

 

Don't forget that there are different grades of solder on the market - multicore type which has tiny resin flux cores running through it is usually good enough for electrical repairs, but for modelling I've always used Carr's 145 and 188 solder sticks plus their "Yellow" and "Green" label fluxes, which help the solder to flow and adhere to the piece you are working on.

 

Also have a couple of resistance soldering units which are in the attic; i've never got round to using those.

 

 

Go to the car boot and get an old 4 amp traditional charger for a couple of quid . Get s couple . If your lucky you will get a quality one like a bradex or absaar.

 

 

This. All modern battery chargers are shit

 

Got a 25-year-old Halfrauds 11A charger. Has settings for "maintenance free" and "standard" car batteries, but I've never been able to tell the difference between the two.... 

 

 

I have c-tek permanently connected to my Boxster (expensive though)

 

c-tek are good, and appear to make the off-brand ones often sold by Aldi/Lidl.

 

I will go against the grain here and say OLD battery chargers are shit. They have their uses, but keeping a rarely used battery topped up is not one of them.

 

Strangely enough, I'm looking at a small 20w solar panel and regulator set to help maintain a car battery over the five/six days when the car's not in use.

[Captain Furious]

I have a CTEK too and it seems to do what it says on the tin, it was about £60-70 I think.

 

I agree that old battery chargers aren't the tool for this job, I left a battery connected to a conventional charger for an extended period of time (I forgot about it) and it when I came back it had split open and all the acid fallen out.  Luckily it wasn't attached to a car at the time.  You need a smart charger that drops into trickle mode when the battery is charged.

[mrbenn]

Am looking to buy a "budget" welder. I don't want to spend a fortune as I can't yet weld, want to get one to have a go with, with a view to taking a college course sometime this summer.

 

I seem to remember this one being reasonable as discussed somewhere on the forum (have searched, can't find it now):

 

https://www.thewelderswarehouse.com/Welding-Supplies/Mig-Welder-BlueMig-140T.html

 

And this one caught my eye:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-MIGHTYMIG150-230V-Professional-Welder/dp/B002HMXQ0A/ref=pd_cp_60_2/280-2635992-3611505?ie=UTF8&refRID=11JZY47E8NSATHCDFGV0

 

Any thoughts from anyone more experienced than I? (i.e. everyone)

 

Cheers.

[Tickman]

Am looking to buy a "budget" welder. I don't want to spend a fortune as I can't yet weld, want to get one to have a go with, with a view to taking a college course sometime this summer.

 

I seem to remember this one being reasonable as discussed somewhere on the forum (have searched, can't find it now):

 

https://www.thewelderswarehouse.com/Welding-Supplies/Mig-Welder-BlueMig-140T.html

 

And this one caught my eye:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-MIGHTYMIG150-230V-Professional-Welder/dp/B002HMXQ0A/ref=pd_cp_60_2/280-2635992-3611505?ie=UTF8&refRID=11JZY47E8NSATHCDFGV0

 

Any thoughts from anyone more experienced than I? (i.e. everyone)

 

Cheers.

The Bluemig  is the one 320touring bought, it is a nice machine and I would recommend it having used it.

 

Don't forget to budget for gas, regulator, wire and the safety kit. An auto darkening mask makes the most difference.

[dave21478]

There is bugger-all difference between the listed specs so I would run with whatever has been recommended by others.

Both non euro torches, both 30 amp minimum. The Sealey has 10 more at the top end which makes no real world difference in car welding. Both adjustable for current in four steps.

[RoadworkUK]

I'm still using one of these gas soldering irons:

 

My Dad bought it about thirty years ago for working on HAM radio gear. He passed it to me and I've found it brilliant. A £2 tin of newsagent Butane seems to last forever.

[gm]

I've had one of those gas filled jobbies since the early nineties, I swapped it from a guy for a pair of saisho car speakers - it's been very well used and only recently started to act up, only holding a small charge of gas. I replaced it with the same model from rs components so should be me set for another couple of decades.

 

the significant advantage of a gas iron is that you can't get the cable tangled up with whatever you are soldering - this used to happen regularly when I had a mains iron

[mrbenn]

The Bluemig  is the one 320touring bought, it is a nice machine and I would recommend it having used it.

 

Don't forget to budget for gas, regulator, wire and the safety kit. An auto darkening mask makes the most difference.

 

 

There is bugger-all difference between the listed specs so I would run with whatever has been recommended by others.

Both non euro torches, both 30 amp minimum. The Sealey has 10 more at the top end which makes no real world difference in car welding. Both adjustable for current in four steps.

 

Thanks for the advice

 

A friend has offered to give me some help getting started so I think I shall take the plunge on one of these. Been wanting to learn for years!

[Fabergé Greggs]

I need a bit of extra lift to get the Daf on axle stands.

 

With my trade card I can get this for 48- Any good?

 

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&langId=-1&categoryId=255207&productId=898881&storeId=10001

[SiC]

This is a lot better: https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tj3-garage-3-ton-trolley-jack

 

Ben

+1 and totally agree 100%. One of the best purchases I've made. Only complaint is that it's huge and fricking heavy. Also I wish it had a fast lift mode. However it's incredibly tough, durable, low but a high lift capability too. Given me masses more confidence when jacking up that it's not going to fall off and damage the car.

[The Moog]

I would avoid SGS had nothing but hassle with a 2 ton jack.

 

Customer service wanted me to pay to return it - £30. On a £27 jack. Then potentially handling fee if they decide it wasnt a manufacturing fault.

 

Then speaking to Dome on here, his does exactly the same. Had to send video to get a replacement.

 

Replacement does same again.

 

It's like there is a vacuum inside which stops the piston going up that far.

 

 

Was this one https://www.sgs-engineering.com/specials/top-sellers/tjl2-2-tonne-low-profile-trolley-jack

[SiC]

Maybe those ones aren't decent quality? SGS of course don't make any of these jack's. They simply go to different Chinese factories and slap their stickers on (like many retailers nowadays). The 3 tonne one seems to have many followers on here for it and has been durable for many.

[The Moog]

Looks like it. I would have assumed that if you had complaints about something so safety orientated it would be taken more seriously and fixed.

 

Was expecting better customer service to be honest - I get they are heavy things to post but I would have thought they would have something in place to fix it.

[The Moog]

I am half way through extending my garage so that I can get the 604 in there to start restoring it.  It needs several panels and a complete respray.

 

Also I put an 8 inch scratch in the door of the Jag this week, and the paint is bubbling on the boot lid and the bottom of some of the doors.

 

I do have a good friend who is a very good painter, but due to health issues in his family his time is becoming more limited.  He is up for teaching me to spray so that I won't need to be dependent on him.

 

I do already have a compressor, it's a 2HP oil free direct drive one that someone gave me for peanuts and which I had to repair.  I did use it (with some help) to spray quite a lot of the 806 that we used to have.  However it was an absolute pain.  It is very noisy, and the motor would be running continuously.

 

My understanding is that a belt drive one will be quieter and that a 3HP one is as big as one can go on household wiring.

 

So I am thinking of ordering one of these

https://gtair.co.uk/air-compressors/1-burisch-bt-390t-90-litre-3hp-belt-drive-air-compressor.html

 

It's a lot cheaper than an equivalent Clarke one from Machine Mart https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-boxer-14100-100-litre-belt-driven-air/ even if a VAT free day comes up.  I have no idea why.

 

Can anyone see any problems with the Burisch one?

  

Though I notice that the Clarke one is quieter with 94dB(A) vs 97dB for the Burisch, that's assuming that dB(A) is the same thing as dB...

  

I HEARD THAT! pardon?TS

[Stanky]

I've been idly browsing ebay using W² patented search citeria of <25 miles, <£500 cars for a potential replacement for the Geep. In the pages of MOT failure Ford Ka's and other assorted non-runners there is a Toyota Paseo 1.5 sitting at a bit of £140 currently with a few days to run.

 

As I understand these are a Starlet Coupe basically, and I know there is some love on here for Starlets. Is this worth a nose about?

 

the reviews I've read online are all turgid shit, and basically say 'well its not as good as a 2.7 v6 hyundai coupe' - No, I expect it isn't. HJ, which is just utter tosh these days lists a negative as 'Might start to be a parts problem if there isn't one already'. This was a proper last-day-of-work-experience-last-article-you-have-to-write-never-heard-of-this-car-before shite. Get in the sea.

 

So, on the plus side it looks to have 4 usable seats, MOT until the summer with no serious advisories from last time, cheap tax as it sneaks just under the 1550cc tax bracket, sportscar* styling and most importantly a registration plate! 90 horses on tap isn't loads, but I had plenty of fun with 85 on tap from my old Almera. Manual gearbag, lift out sunroof (it'll leak won't it?) and Japanese patented 'sea of grey' 90s interior.

 

Anything I'm missing? Anyone got any advice on whether these are worth a sniff?

[The Moog]

Get it bought - it would roffle on here well I would imagine! 

 

As we all know starlets are for winnahs and if this is one in a posh frock that is winnah²

[Stanky]

I'll see what my finacial advisor has to say a bit later on, it looks a happy little thing and ticks plenty of boxes - I suspect that I might need the space on the drive first though.

[DodgeRover]

Starlets are ace when rwd even when fitted with standard engines, no idea what modern ones are like though, probably less fun and do less than 50 mpg.

[Stanky]

Paseo sold for more than I was prepared to pay, but something a lot more shiter-approved and cheaper to buy and insure has presented itself.

 

What are the various merits of a 205 GRD with the powerhouse NA 1768cc XUD (?) engine? a Moar Doar one has come up locally for a good price, its a bit down-at-heel and needs various cosmetic improvements but could go on classic insurance and should cost buttons to run, albeit at a sedate pace.

 

anything to look out for especially? its got PAS which is nice as I bet its hefty steering with the XUD up front. MOT history is OK-ish, a few things to keep an eye on but no show-stoppers. MOT through to christmas as well.

 

Rear beam is all I know about in terms of weak spots and they are replaceable relatively easily and for a moderate price?

[320touring]

Paseo sold for more than I was prepared to pay, but something a lot more shiter-approved and cheaper to buy and insure has presented itself.

 

What are the various merits of a 205 GRD with the powerhouse NA 1768cc XUD (?) engine? a Moar Doar one has come up locally for a good price, its a bit down-at-heel and needs various cosmetic improvements but could go on classic insurance and should cost buttons to run, albeit at a sedate pace.

 

anything to look out for especially? its got PAS which is nice as I bet its hefty steering with the XUD up front. MOT history is OK-ish, a few things to keep an eye on but no show-stoppers. MOT through to christmas as well.

 

Rear beam is all I know about in terms of weak spots and they are replaceable relatively easily and for a moderate price?

I liked the one I moved north for a shiter so much, I went out and bought one..

 

https://youtu.be/duHk_xojCRc

[tooSavvy]

I've started getting itchy fingers....

 

 

I was awarded a 0 - 25MM mic, as a prize at Apprentice School @Vickers, for being top of my year.

30 yr ago, bastard car thieves had away with my car + tools in the boot

 

I will enjoy my '£5 fondle'.... good therapy

[tooSavvy]

^^ just popped thru the letterbox

 

Mmmmm.... twistyyy....

[artdjones]

Paseo sold for more than I was prepared to pay, but something a lot more shiter-approved and cheaper to buy and insure has presented itself.

 

 

What are the various merits of a 205 GRD with the powerhouse NA 1768cc XUD (?)

engine? a Moar Doar one has come up locally for a good price, its a bit down-at-heel and needs various cosmetic improvements but could go on classic insurance and should cost buttons to run, albeit at a sedate pace.

 

anything to look out for especially? its got PAS which is nice as I bet its hefty steering with the XUD up front. MOT history is OK-ish, a few things to keep an eye on but no show-stoppers. MOT through to christmas as well.

 

Rear beam is all I know about in terms of weak spots and they are replaceable relatively easily and for a moderate price?

To be fair,they don't really have weak spots.If the beam is ok,then fitting a couple of grease nipples and occasionally using them will keep it that way.Check the metalwork above the beam for rust.The power steering does make a difference.

Other than that,just make the usual checks on an older car.

[Simonsays]

When summer draws to a close I'll be looking to get rid of my Ford Streetkak. It gets stored over winter anyway so I wouldnt get much use out of it for at least 3 months. It'd probably cost a bit to get it through its next MOT anyway. Needs some exhaust bits and the rear shocks are..... Shocking.

 

I'm looking to buy a bit of a barge next. I quite fancy an estate of some sort. The Vlovo 70's have been catching my eye lately.

 

I'm not put off by ruinously poor fuel consumption as its a weekend car not a commuting/shopping trolly. I would value reliability/cheap to fix over flashiness and can just about manage a basic service. Pretty much everything else would need to be farmed out ro my local garage.

 

By September I should have a budget of around 1k stashed away.

 

Help me make up my mind on what to look at please. Id rather spend a few months looking round and doing a bit of forecourt fondling than just buy the first thing that catches my eye (like how I bought the bloody streetkak)

[Lankytim]

Hi shitters,

 

I’m currently on holiday down in Cornwall in the wife’s Fiat Multipla and the engine management light has illuminated, are there any cheapo code readers that are worth getting? ECP have a Streetwize reader for £25 but I have no idea if it’s any good or not. Any that need to be avoided?

 

We also lost clutch hydraulics 10 miles into our journey from Stoke on Trent but that’s another story!

[Guest Hooli]

Isn't that twosmoke's area?

[bub2006]

I bought one off eBay for 20 quid brand new around 6 or so years back. Worked fine and no issues.

[bub2006]

Twosmoke may assist too.