What

[Scruffy Bodger]

For fairly small stuff the gas ones are good, I find the lead on electric ones a pain. The one I have was about £12 from Aldi. Something like this, though mine had more bits and bobs with it.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-78774-SELF-IGNITING-REFILLABLE-BUTANE-LIGHTER-GAS-SOLDERING-IRON-TORCH/273065051332?hash=item3f93f204c4:g:zwMAAOSwPDBaEXb5

If you can cope with a lead I bought one of these and it's ben very good http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/58W-Variable-Temperature-Soldering-Station-Iron-Electronic-W-Extra-Tips-312095/292143984080?epid=13009769552&hash=item4405236dd0:g:BMsAAOSwH6lXRMa0 The extra tips alone will cost you about 7 quid in maplins.

[D Spares & Tyres]

Just general wiring on cars, trailers, etc. The gas one sounds like a good idea

[spike60]

If it's windy the gas ones can struggle but aside from that they're cheap and easy to use. Much more convenient than trying to use a small tool on the end of 240v cables  to repair a wire in a tailgate hinge, as you do.

[dave21478]

I'd be very interested too. I've invested into the LXT range and awfully tempted with that impact wrench. Like you said, it's pricey, but Makita stuff is generally solid and the specs aren't full of lies.

 

I pulled the trigger on one of these this morning. Cheapest I could find was from Ze Germanz...

https://www.passiontec.com/makita-dtw1002z.html

The price includes postage but they add 7 euros or so for payment by Paypal or you can fanny about with an international bank transfer which I couldnt be assed with.

[Captain Furious]

In a previous life I used to do surface mount soldering work on PCB’s for Marconi. They used Metcals and they really are excellent. For PCB work where you need precise temperature control and you’re at risk of lifting pads off the board etc then you need a pro iron. For general wiring work I prefer the gas ones for convenience.

 

Generally for wiring work you won’t be using separate flux, you’ll be using flux cored solder, the thing to remember is that when you melt it and you see the puff of smoke, that’s the flux burning off. That’s literally how long you have to make the joint. After that the solder just wants to go into a ball and you need to add more flux to make a decent joint. Once you get your head around that, it’s easy. The common mistake people make it they try and put the solder on the iron first, you need to get the joint hot and then feed the solder into it.

[SiC]

Helps to have a small ball of solder on the tip to aid heat transfer before doing the solder join. Don't leave the tips bare with no solder on when you're finished either. It'll oxide them and bugger them up.

[mrcitroen]

After a gas iron??? forget the cheapy ones. Weller pyropen is the dogs bollocks. We use them at work & i have one in the garage. Great for working in akward areas where a lead gets in the road. Loads of attachments available & the hot air blower is brill for heatshrink. Spare parts available too.

 

I have had mine for years (20+) worth every penny but a bit £££££££

 

https://www.uktoolcentre.co.uk/products/weller-pyropen-piezo-soldering-iron.html?SID=809302&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsveX3cW02QIVFuAbCh03wwO7EAYYASABEgIDMvD_BwE

[SiC]

Air compressors. Any recommendations? Want something to do general stuff like air ratchets/blowing air/die grinder/spraying/etc. Ideally something that can drive an air impact wrench, but not too essential.

 

I'm thinking the Lidl one is a waste of time and I probably can spend a tad more for something better.

[dave21478]

As a very rough guide, anything direct drive is not really up to doing heavy stuff, ideally a belt drive is what you need, preferably twin cylinder for heavier use.

Die grinders and other "air motor" tools are very greedy for airflow and need a decent compressor to prevent frustration.

 

Equally important and distressingly expensive is decent hose and fittings - a lot of standard stuff is small bore (6 or 8mm?) and this throttles flow too much - you need to get larger diameter fittings and hose.

 

I have a wee lidl style direct drive thing with I think 50 litre tank I got from a diy shop and its great for inflating tyres, the blow gun for cleaning etc. It can also just cope with a schutz gun and stonechip spraying in small areas. As soon as I try an impact or air drill it just isnt great. When fully charged it will give a decent burst of power but this falls off after just a few seconds and then the motor kicks in and its always trying to catch up, meaning you have to pause every few seconds. 

I have a big compressor in the barn that needs work, but its way down the list of priorities these days as I have battery or mains tools that will do most of the things I need from a compressor anyway.

 

 

 

As an aside, that makita we talked about earlier was dispatched straight away by the sellers and is on its way with DHL - I will do a review when it arrives.

[SiC]

Yeah I think decent battery tools (i.e. Makita) are the way forward. A lot less noisy too. Especially useful in a residential area and using them occasionally.

 

I think I'll just get a cheap compressor for blowing air, tyres, small ratchet and the odd cavity spray gun type tool. I don't really need anything much more than that really.

 

How safe are second hand compressors? I assume the tanks are essentially like unexploded bombs when full of air? Is it a good idea to let the air out when finished, or is this more likely to allow condensation to build up inside and rust it out?

[dave21478]

Compressors seem to be some kind of elephant in the room that people dont mention much. There seems to be a bit of an assumption that if one fails it will make a bit of a bang and a rush of air will ruffle their hair or something. If they are unlucky enough to be near it, the results can be horrifying and/or fatal.

 

When I worked at a garage our insurers insisted that the big workshop compressor get a full inspection every year where a guy would use a borescope and some widget for measuring wall thickness etc.

 

I wouldnt worry about buying a second hand one as long as it wasnt ancient, obviously bashed about and not messed with. I have seen various thread on various forums where people weld extra brackets or fittings and stuff on....yikes. Yes, it may well be fine, but welding alters the metals structure and repeated pressure cycling will add to fatigue....

 

I dont deliberately empty mine, but slow leaks in the fittings mean when switched off it will empty over a few days if not used. Maybe once a month I unscrew the drain plug and a load of manky, rusty water will come out but my garage is very damp.

 

 Forgetting to switch it off is a hassle. Its usually just as I am on the verge of falling asleep at 2am that it will kick on and wake the whole hamlet up.

[Kiltox]

Yeah I think decent battery tools (i.e. Makita) are the way forward. A lot less noisy too. Especially useful in a residential area and using them occasionally.

 

I think I'll just get a cheap compressor for blowing air, tyres, small ratchet and the odd cavity spray gun type tool. I don't really need anything much more than that really.

 

How safe are second hand compressors? I assume the tanks are essentially like unexploded bombs when full of air? Is it a good idea to let the air out when finished, or is this more likely to allow condensation to build up inside and rust it out?

You need the loudest biggest bastard compressor you can find, fuck your neighbour

[tul66]

^^You can fuck her if you want, she's a horrible, sensible shoe wearing, hippy twat!

 

I agree about the noisy compressor though.

[Kiltox]

What are you going to solder? If general electronics then get a decent iron. I.e. genuine Hakko, Weller or Metcal. Make sure it's genuine too. Loads of fakes about.

 

The Hakko FX888D is a great, professional iron at a good price. It's a Japanese design and manufactured iron. The official UK distributor is here: http://www.dancap.co.uk/soldering/fx888D.html

Yes their website is awful but it's a small mom and pop type outfit that mostly deals with big manufacturing companies, so it doesn't matter to them too much. You can get it elsewhere, but it's more expensive.

 

Buy a good soldering iron once and you will never have to buy another again. A good iron will suddenly make soldering so much easier and you'll suddenly find it's not that hard.

 

Cheap irons just can't get enough heat to the tips quick enough and the tips themselves are crap quality.

 

My personal setup is two Wellers. They weren't cheap but I bought them when I was back in Uni (~2008) and I don't regret it. If I was buying now I'd choose the Hakko.

 

Hot air rework is another useful tool and skill. But that's a different ballgame and one for another day...

Do I really need to post them a cheque to order from them?

 

Thinking about getting back into tinkering with electronics again

[The Moog]

Hopefully the fascists mods won't bin this.

 

With too many cars/bikes/garages and possibly too many cars/bike not working properly but only one built this century none of my spanners fit OBDII so, assuming others on this webshite are in a similar charabanc here is a OBD thread.

 

Can someone point me to free (cheap) software on Win7 or Ubuntu which runs with generic USB-16 pin OBD cable which displays live data from engines sensors, MAP, temp, lambda, revs, throttle position etc.

 

I can suggest Piston on Android with a EML327 bluetooth reader.

 

Dunno what works on a laptop though.

C_B

 

do you need it on an ongoing basis or one-off? If the latter I'm just down the road from you and still owe you from picking up those rimZ for me a while back.

 

PM me

Elm327 user here with android torque plus.

Not binned but put in correct thread.

[alf892]

As per my Jag thread I bought this for winding in calipers. Bloody good value at about 17 quid.

 

You do have to be careful not to let it push the piston too hard though. I think the pitch on the tool is quicker than the one on the piston so you have to ease it off every turn or so.

 

[Kiltox]

Can confirm that the Hakko soldering station recommended by SiC is fucking excellent.

[SierraMikeHotel]

Afternoon all.

 

I don't own a car at the moment (apart from the dead Rover) as Mrs H gets a company car and I don't need one in my daily life (I walk to work).  However, we will be getting a dog soon and we don't want her to ruin the company car.  It is intended for work, after all, and it wouldn't be right for Mrs H to be ferrying colleagues and clients around with dog dribble and smell in the car.

 

This is, of course, all an excuse - I just want another car.  I haven't had one for nearly three years now and I've been missing it.  There's no tearing hurry so I can wait for the right car to come along.

 

Meanwhile, I will be bothering this thread for your suggestions, and your opinions on stuff that I come across.

 

The spec:

Must have space for a greyhound in the rear.  This means an estate or a hatchback with a vertical rear end and a low loading lip.  If hatchback, I envisage the back seats being down 99% of the time so three-door would be fine.

Must be cheap.  My limit always used to be £500 but inflation has happened since then so I accept it might need to be more.  £1000 as an absolute upper limit.

Must be in running order, preferably with a decent length of MoT.  I am no mechanic.

Petrol auto preferred, but diesels and manuals will be considered.

 

I found a mk 3 Mondeo that met the spec perfectly on eBay last night, bid £300 and it went for £350 so I know cheap decent cars are still out there!

 

What do we think of these?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/honda-civic/263512235694

 

It's reasonably local and I'm not bothered about the cosmetic damage - as long as it is only cosmetic.  I'd probably always be thinking of that Mondeo though, I'd have much rather had that for the money.

 

Or this?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-v40-2-0-petrol-automatic-estate/323097854125

 

I used to have an X-reg S40 2.0T manual and I absolutely loved it.  This is the one I'm excited about.  I paid £800 for mine in 2012, what do we think they're worth now?  Is there a big difference in character with no turbo on it?  I'm really not a speed freak, but it is good to have the power there if you need it.

[tul66]

As per my Jag thread I bought this for winding in calipers. Bloody good value at about 17 quid.

 

You do have to be careful not to let it push the piston too hard though. I think the pitch on the tool is quicker than the one on the piston so you have to ease it off every turn or so.

 

image.jpg

+1 Had one of these for a few years. Save a shed load of time given you've got to free off the Themas calipers every Mot.

[Fabergé Greggs]

I’m looking for some mega strong double sided adhesive tape to try out some satellite style speakers in the Daf- they’re pretty light being the 5.1 surround type.

 

I’d like to stick the speakers in place into the sides of the footwells, but retain the ability to remove them in future.

 

I’m sure I saw some mega strong tape one time that stuck like crazy but relinquished its grip if you pulled really really slowly for ages.

[Tickman]

I’m looking for some mega strong double sided adhesive tape to try out some satellite style speakers in the Daf- they’re pretty light being the 5.1 surround type.

 

I’d like to stick the speakers in place into the sides of the footwells, but retain the ability to remove them in future.

 

I’m sure I saw some mega strong tape one time that stuck like crazy but relinquished its grip if you pulled really really slowly for ages.

 

Would something like this work?

 

 

http://www.viking-direct.co.uk/catalog/catalogSku.do?id=6598475&pr=Q23&cm_mmc=Google-_-PLA_GEN_GOOGLE-SHOPPING_desktop-essentials-_-Desktop+Essentials-_-6598475&_%24ja=tsid:34770%7ccid:242833457%7cagid:16600083977%7ctid:pla-409989943584%7ccrid:55356843977%7cnw:g%7crnd:5533208584992694752%7cdvc:c%7cadp:1o2%7cmt:%7cloc:1007321&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoY7VBRDtARIsAHWoO-Ifcqv-foATKCeDc7SFNYJJYJEBbJ4rF0R1A9d5AmlG_xMpfKtTs6MaAg_FEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I have seen them in use and hold a reasonable weight and can be peeled off even a painted surface without damage.

[Fabergé Greggs]

Would something like this work?

 

picture hanging.jpg

 

http://www.viking-direct.co.uk/catalog/catalogSku.do?id=6598475&pr=Q23&cm_mmc=Google-_-PLA_GEN_GOOGLE-SHOPPING_desktop-essentials-_-Desktop+Essentials-_-6598475&_%24ja=tsid:34770%7ccid:242833457%7cagid:16600083977%7ctid:pla-409989943584%7ccrid:55356843977%7cnw:g%7crnd:5533208584992694752%7cdvc:c%7cadp:1o2%7cmt:%7cloc:1007321&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoY7VBRDtARIsAHWoO-Ifcqv-foATKCeDc7SFNYJJYJEBbJ4rF0R1A9d5AmlG_xMpfKtTs6MaAg_FEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I have seen them in use and hold a reasonable weight and can be peeled off even a painted surface without damage.

That’s a good shout, cheers.

[3VOM]

Audio guys use hot melt glue as you can un-stick it with some sort of solvent or just break it off IIRC.

[inconsistant]

Can anyone recommend a car battery charger (or what to avoid) please. Car doesn't get used much so mostly just to keep it topped up. 

Thanks!

[twosmoke300]

Go to the car boot and get an old 4 amp traditional charger for a couple of quid . Get s couple . If your lucky you will get a quality one like a bradex or absaar.

[The Moog]

Can anyone recommend a car battery charger (or what to avoid) please. Car doesn't get used much so mostly just to keep it topped up. 

Thanks!

I have got a couple so you are more than welcome to one if you want?  Pm if you do 

[Kiltox]

Go to the car boot and get an old 4 amp traditional charger for a couple of quid . Get s couple . If your lucky you will get a quality one like a bradex or absaar.

This. All modern battery chargers are shit

[stonedagain]

I have c-tek permanently connected to my Boxster (expensive though)

[dave21478]

c-tek are good, and appear to make the off-brand ones often sold by Aldi/Lidl.

 

I will go against the grain here and say OLD battery chargers are shit. They have their uses, but keeping a rarely used battery topped up is not one of them.

[inconsistant]

I have got a couple so you are more than welcome to one if you want?  Pm if you do

 

Great! PM on its way...