Project Dollywobbler's Invacar - Ongoing

[SiC]

Even a cheap pair of these are a million times better at making good quality crimps than those utterly useless pliers type you get in crimp multi packs. I'd thoroughly recommend getting a pair in advance and replacing any old and suspect connector. Too many replacement crimps done by people don't hold anywhere near well enough to what they should be. Also it's often quicker to chop off old crimps and replace than cleaning up existing ones. A quick tug on the connector and wire should not separate the two. If it does, then it's not crimped properly.

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292362901127

[dollywobbler]

Oh, this is why I had to replace the nearside lamp unit. The lens had cracked, and filled up with muck and mud, which then corroded it quite badly.

[mat_the_cat]

Even a cheap pair of these are a million times better at making good quality crimps than those utterly useless pliers type you get in crimp multi packs. I'd thoroughly recommend getting a pair in advance and replacing any old and suspect connector. Too many replacement crimps done by people don't hold anywhere near well enough to what they should be. Also it's often quicker to chop off old crimps and replace than cleaning up existing ones.

 

/\ Very true. The problem comes when the wire is all black inside when you strip it back! If so I try and scrape it off as much as possible before dipping in some plumber's active flux, which will make it bright again once heated. If the connector is in a damp location (i.e. Wales...) I'd recommend adhesive lined crimps. Once you've made a good connection a quick blast with a hot air gun will shrink and seal the insulation onto the wire.

 

[Zelandeth]

Ooh...Not come across those before somehow.  They sound like a very useful thing to have in the toolbox, especially when doing a significant amount of cutting and splicing of the loom.  *cough* cutting to length some of the Lada's EFi loom that's currently cable-tied to the coolant expansion tank *cough*

 

Off to track down and order a bunch of them!

[dollywobbler]

The rear lights have bullet connectors, the likes of which I've never seen before. They're just rolled steel that the bullets plug into. One of them needed cleaning up to restore taillights. So, I won't be remaking any connections if I can avoid it, and it looks like I should just about be able to.

[st185cs]

Oh, this is why I had to replace the nearside lamp unit. The lens had cracked, and filled up with muck and mud, which then corroded it quite badly.

Don't throw away any of those all-red lenses (even if the yellow lens is damaged) as they are no longer available.

[dollywobbler]

Don't throw away any of those all-red lenses (even if the yellow lens is damaged) as they are no longer available.

 

Ah, yes. I noticed the ones at my local motor factors have the clear bit for illuminating a number plate. The amber bit just slides off. Sadly, the nearside red lens is pretty badly broken.

 

Anyway, here are the wiring connections. Are these used on other stuff? I've never seen the like before.

[purplebargeken]

I've seen them before but my memory is shit and I just can't remember what they were on. Not much help really.

 

Heat shrink is ace and features heavily on any connections that I now make. 

[Timewaster]

/\ Very true. The problem comes when the wire is all black inside when you strip it back! If so I try and scrape it off as much as possible before dipping in some plumber's active flux, which will make it bright again once heated. If the connector is in a damp location (i.e. Wales...) I'd recommend adhesive lined crimps. Once you've made a good connection a quick blast with a hot air gun will shrink and seal the insulation onto the wire.

 

Those are solder sleeves. I used to use them when I used to knock up looms for aircraft in a short lived career diversion.

They are not crimps, do not attempt to crimp them.

 

Place the two bared ends into the sleeve and as you heat the sleeve, the ends shrink to form a seal and then the solder rings melt into the centre.

 

You can buy crimps set into sections of heat shrink but these are a different animal.

[mat_the_cat]

Ok, I'll rephrase that. The ones I have purchased have definitely been crimp connectors, insulated by adhesive lined heatshrink. I'm aware of the solder type but have never used or even seen them.

The search result from Google images I believed to be the crimp type which I have used, as suggested by the labelling on the picture and the fact they look like the ones I have.

 

I've had a search for solder sleeves, and the ones I can see certainly look to be different from those pictured above?

 

[Eddie Honda]

Anyway, here are the wiring connections. Are these used on other stuff? I've never seen the like before.

They're bog standard Lucas type bullet joiners, like this:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191925440178

[DeeJay]

Whatever they are they look lethal.

[SiC]

Yes they look identical to the (many) bullet joiners on my MGB but with the plastic housing missing.

[SiC]

Those are definitely heatshrink crimps. They're readily available even in Halfords.

 

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/fuses-electricals-fixings/halfords-heat-shrink-butt-connectors-5-amp

[Timewaster]

Mat the Cat and SIC are right. I am wrong!

 

In my defence, it was 1999 the last time I used them.

[dollywobbler]

Yes they look identical to the (many) bullet joiners on my MGB but with the plastic housing missing.

 

Aye. That's removed as I'd been mucking about with them. They will be re-clad in something suitable.

 

Just had a mighty internet search for the correct rear lights. I think I have actually found somewhere selling the correct rear lights (without the numberplate illumination) but they're £34 each rather than £22, and I think I'd rather just use a bit of lens repair tape to change the clear bit to red and save myself £24.

[mat_the_cat]

Mat the Cat and SIC are right. I am wrong!

 

In my defence,not was 1999 the last time I used them.

At least I know what solder sleeves look like now!

[seth]

If the lights are working independantly but then become fairy lights in combination then it could be the earth wire or contact between the light housing backplate and the chassis/ground.  The lights may work separately by grounding backwards though another light but put them both on and you've got current trying to go both ways at once. At least that's how I picture it in my head.

[st185cs]

Here’s a photo of the two pin model 70 flasher relay stood next to its holder and can usually be found tucked behind/bolted the underside of the the dash...

[Timewaster]

Through my hazy memory, I thought the two silver rings visible were the solder rings.

 

Of course, they were the crimp marks.

 

Solder sleeves are brilliant though.

I doubt they were cheap, but I wasn't paying at the time.

[dollywobbler]

If the lights are working independantly but then become fairy lights in combination then it could be the earth wire or contact between the light housing backplate and the chassis/ground.  The lights may work separately by grounding backwards though another light but put them both on and you've got current trying to go both ways at once. At least that's how I picture it in my head.

 

I suspect there's corrosion within the lamp unit, creating a spreading of the volts when there should be none. Wiggling bulbs sometimes helps, and sometimes does not. Maybe I should pull the whole thing off and give it a bath of cheap cola (plenty left after the Nissan heater matrix fix!).

 

As the lamp is screwed to fibreglass, it can't be leaking there. I will try cleaning up the earth wire where it connects to the others while I've got those connectors uncovered.

[320touring]

Aye. That's removed as I'd been mucking about with them. They will be re-clad in something suitable.

 

Just had a mighty internet search for the correct rear lights. I think I have actually found somewhere selling the correct rear lights (without the numberplate illumination) but they're £34 each rather than £22, and I think I'd rather just use a bit of lens repair tape to change the clear bit to red and save myself £24.

If it makes you feel better, this is why is fitted to the Oxford..

 

 

Thankfully I was sitting down

[Squire_Dawson]

Aye. That's removed as I'd been mucking about with them. They will be re-clad in something suitable.

 

Just had a mighty internet search for the correct rear lights. I think I have actually found somewhere selling the correct rear lights (without the numberplate illumination) but they're £34 each rather than £22, and I think I'd rather just use a bit of lens repair tape to change the clear bit to red and save myself £24.

 

You removed the insulation? What on Earth for? I certainly would not advise 'mucking about' with electrics, next thing could be the car going up in flames.

[dollywobbler]

Oh just for the danger. I also started spraying petrol like perfume just for a giggle.

 

FFS. I was tracing faults and as it happened, one of the faults was under the insulating plastic, so it all had to come off. I'm not going to leave them bare!

 

I will add that the battery gets disconnected every time I leave the car.

[Squire_Dawson]

I'm not sure I understand. What did you suspect the fault was in the connector? They either show continuity or not, there's nothing really to go wrong with them. The wires just pull out and plug back in.

[SiC]

Lucas electrics are woefully under fused. After looking through many old British cars electrical diagrams (something I do and find enjoyable ... yes I'm wierd), I've noticed that often circuits you expect to have some sort of fuse have zilch on them. Especially lighting circuits!

 

A car battery when short circuited is more than capable of putting out more current than a MIG welder. Please be careful!!

[dollywobbler]

Why did I suspect the connector? Because there was 12v one side and not the other. It was horribly corroded, so I cleaned it up and refitted it and job was a good'un.

 

There are entirely two fuses on this car, and the lowest rating is 25amps. Not sure what's on it. Probably not lighting. I have been pissing about with cars for a long time. I am aware of the dangers.

 

Jeepers. There was less panic when I was sloshing petrol everywhere trying to get it to start!

[Eddie Honda]

Aye. That's removed as I'd been mucking about with them. They will be re-clad in something suitable.

For all the aggro they are, just replace them.

 

Just had a mighty internet search for the correct rear lights. I think I have actually found somewhere selling the correct rear lights (without the numberplate illumination) but they're £34 each rather than £22, and I think I'd rather just use a bit of lens repair tape to change the clear bit to red and save myself £24.

I had an unmighty quick glance. Lenses alone are in two flavours and both are circa 16 quid. Why tape?

[Guest Hooli]

Had loads of those connectors on the S2 LtWt LR I had years ago, endless hassles with headlights not always working because of them.

[plasticvandan]

They are standard rubber/plastic sleeved bullet connectors,Reliants of this age have hundreds of the things,guttingly I had a proper Lucas bullet crimper,but seems to have gone walkies I use those solder connectors at work,problem I've found with them is half the time the heat needed to melt the solder melts the sleeve as well.