Landy Mann's Fleet - Land Ruster 110

[Landy Mann]

A few small patches this evening, I've learnt a couple of things:

1. Welding upside down is more difficult

2. Underseal is flammable

3. I really should just buy a cross member with long extensions

4. The corrosion is extreme, look how much the cross member has expanded into iron oxide...

[Landy Mann]

So this welding session is complete for now, more reports to follow when I man up and just replace the cross member.

The weld bay set up, the blackline 200 gets my thumbs up.

Not pretty and slightly steam punk but solid.

More than happy for any feedback on what the MOT tester might say

The cat says stop welding I need fuss.

Throwing some under seal on it all tomorrow.

[Split_Pin]

How do you find the push fit connection from the clear pipe from the gas cylinder to the thin pipe on your welder? I can't get mine to stop leaking ever so slightly. Hobbyweld gas is dear and I don't want to waste it.

[somewhatfoolish]

Can the pushfit be removed? They don't cost much to replace.

[Landy Mann]

My welder didn't come set up for disposable gas, it just had a hose tail (looks like 1/4" BSP although I haven't checked), so I could just use a small jubilee clip from the regulator output into the house tail.

[Tickman]

14 hours ago, Landy Mann said:

 

 

Either lie your gas bottle down or tie it do something, it is quite annoying when it falls and destroys the gauges.

[Landy Mann]

Well time for an update...

Short on photos but here goes:

Confidence boosting patches done. I then drove around for awhile before the next step

Cut of off all my hard work

new cross member on (not welded in this photo)

Roll on several months later, all done and time to look at other bits of chassis

Front outrigger didn't look bad until I poked it no tools necessary.

Parts of the top front and rear of the outrigger needed replacing, this was easier than I expected. Final patch on, my welding is definitely improving.

MOT booked for Wednesday, this should give me a to-do list for the final bits needed to get road worthy.

[Blake's Den]

Great work! I thought that my rear cross member was patchy but yours definetly wins!

I'm wanting to do a rear cross member replacement early next year.  Which one did you choose? I was looking at the ones with extensions but there were so many types - bare metal, galvanised, powder coated, heavy duty., with extensions welded on, with the extensions provided seperately...the price difference was quite eye opening. I was worried that the cheaper ones would be a poor fit and require a lot of fettling

[Landy Mann]

I went for this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292222245156?fits=Model%3ADefender&epid=1922835409&hash=item4409cd9924:g:QYYAAOxyhlJRe3Gn although I'm sure the price has crept up since I bought mine. This one has extensions that butt up against one of the body cross members so there is less alignment to worry about. I think my final mounting of it was a bit low but there's enough tolerance that is still seems to fit ok. I decided against galv, this will outlast the rest of the chassis any way. Also I had a massive nose bleed after my one and only attempt at welding galv unistrut a couple of years ago so steered clear of it. (Although I suspect if it was related grinding/cleaning the galv off first would have solved that!)

The most challenging bit was trying to clean up and access the top of the chassis rails. 

[Landy Mann]

Also in a previous life it had already had a cross member with no extensions fitted so I wanted to get back to good metal as much as possible.

[Landy Mann]

I'll take that....

Not sure there's enough oil leak advisories though...

Date tested10 November 2021

PASS

Mileage130,121 miles

Expiry date9 November 2022

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

• Power steering component has slight seepage from a component steering box (2.1.5 (a))
• Offside Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive step (7.1.1 (a) (i))
• Upper Steering column universal joint has slight wear or play (2.2.2 (c))
• Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i))
• Oil leak, but not excessive rear diff (8.4.1 (a) (i))
• Oil leak, but not excessive gearbox (8.4.1 (a) (i))
• Oil leak, but not excessive both front hubs (8.4.1 (a) (i))
• Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material all (1.1.11 (c))
• slight lift in n/s front lower suspension joint

[warch]

I like the oil leak under nearly everything that has oil in. 
 

Seems like a reasonable MoT tester though, most do seem to have a soft spot for the poor sod palpating like he’s on the final round of Who wants to be a Millionaire having just brought an old Landrover in for inspection.

[Blake's Den]

On 11/7/2021 at 10:25 PM, Landy Mann said:

I went for this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292222245156?fits=Model%3ADefender&epid=1922835409&hash=item4409cd9924:g:QYYAAOxyhlJRe3Gn although I'm sure the price has crept up since I bought mine. This one has extensions that butt up against one of the body cross members so there is less alignment to worry about. I think my final mounting of it was a bit low but there's enough tolerance that is still seems to fit ok. I decided against galv, this will outlast the rest of the chassis any way. Also I had a massive nose bleed after my one and only attempt at welding galv unistrut a couple of years ago so steered clear of it. (Although I suspect if it was related grinding/cleaning the galv off first would have solved that!)

The most challenging bit was trying to clean up and access the top of the chassis rails. 

Ooofff, that's expensive. I'm probably going to get a bare metal one and rust proof it myself. That way if it falls apart after a year then I've only got myself to blame 😁

 

Good work with the MoT. Don't worry about the oil leaks, mine has had that as an advisory for every online MoT record!

[Landy Mann]

Well I didn't update the thread with last years pre MOT welding... however to bring us upto date as fresh sorn is applied, the 110 is freshly washed. Let the summer welding season commence! (it about 4 weeks time when I have some time!).

 

After 11 years it's time to tackle the bulkhead again.

 

[Landy Mann]

Roll on 8 weeks and we had progress till rain stopped play. Only a couple of bolts to get the other wing off, loads of lovely rust, but all repairable so far.

[2flags]

I know how well these can rust. I did the drivers footwell on mine a few years ago. This was followed by a complete chassis swap. While that was done, polybushed throughout and new springs and shocks. This was soon followed by a new clutch slave cylinder.  

[N Dentressangle]

As a serial Land Rover botherer, I've never understood why LR never spent the few miserable quid it would have cost them to galvanise the chassis and bulkhead from the factory. It's not like these were ever cheap to buy new.

Seems perverse. But then that's Land Rover.

[sutty2006]

I often think the same about mine…..

[Dyslexic Viking]

2 hours ago, N Dentressangle said:

As a serial Land Rover botherer, I've never understood why LR never spent the few miserable quid it would have cost them to galvanise the chassis and bulkhead from the factory. It's not like these were ever cheap to buy new.

Seems perverse. But then that's Land Rover.

Something must kill them so we have to buy new ones.

That would be my guess on that.

[Landy Mann]

Progress...

Repair or replace?

Replacement isn't cheep but should last 40 years

[Landy Mann]

While the bulkheads off it's time for some chassis welding:

Hole:

Bigger hole:

Patch cut:

Welded up:

It makes a change to weld bits of chassis that are accessible and not upside down.

[Landy Mann]

I'm sure this passed the hammer test earlier on this evening...

[Landy Mann]

De ja vu?

Bigger hole:

Patch cut:

Welded up:

As far as I know that's the end of chassis welding for this year but will no doubt be proved wrong!

[N Dentressangle]

20 minutes ago, Landy Mann said:

As far as I know that's the end of chassis welding for this year but will no doubt be proved wrong!

🤣 It isn't and you know it

[Andyrew]

Thats a very tidy repair. Top work sir!

[Landy Mann]

Thanks @Andyrewmost of the credit should go to the Black line Mig and hobbyweld 5 gas...

Anyway onwards, cleaned* up:

On with etch primer, this did react in places with the residual lanogaurd:

I won't claim to be good at painting or having a particularly good coating system but my process is going to be as follows: etch prime, then either hammerite underseal (the one with added waxoil) or the cheap screwfix black hammerite type paint followed by the annual lanogaurd once the bulkhead is back on.

[purplebargeken]

Loved my 110. Spent a good bit of time and money getting it back on the road. MOT was due and it had a slight leak from the PAS reservoir and needed a slight welding repair to the rear of the chassis. The former Mrs PBK refused to let me have the money to get the work done, so off it went via ebay and it never saw the road again. Gutted and annoyed.