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Reginald Nutsack's K-series Kapers - ROVER 623 MOT GUFF


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Posted

A problem with this is that the more parts go into making the spine, the greater the likelihood of one of them making a break for it and being ingested into the engine. If we are talking a nylon screw or washer the engine will probably survive but if its a pop rivet or nut or bolt my magical 'cure' for an annoying rattle will cause the death of the engine! Urgh

 

I also think that the weight of the spine is quite important, if its too heavy its going to wear the balls and sockets out in no time and probably cause the VIS solenoid to give up the fight too.

Posted

Aye you don't want to start selling these then be sued by half a dozen people who've had their engine lunched because it fell to bits.

Posted

Hell, Boll - you do pick your fights, don't you? Leastways it's not big dollar if you screw up..

 

And that Maser, sitting quietly behind you- filling your workshop?

Posted

My plan would have 16 pieces, including the new 'sockets'. The reason I would favour metal is that it can be fixed mechanically reliably. Unlike the pos plastic that breaks up. You could use a length of plastic bar instead of ally?

Posted

Bollox, if you want a prototype doing I've a couple of 3d printers, but I can't do nylon, just abs. Strength is definitely an issue though, the layer adhesion is never brilliant. You can dip abs in acetone and it melts it all together and makes stuff much stronger but it's still not gonna be anything like that of an injection molded part

Posted

Rev 1 and 2 MR2 3SGTE motors have them, along with a myriad of other motors. These behave, but everyone still either disconnects them or removes completely, with no adverse affects.

 

The 2009> 1.0 3 cyl A10XEP Vaux motor is also similarly adorned, and some bod gave me 100 sovs for the non-rattling inlet from that.

Mad heed!

 

Get them in the bin and save yourself the hassle!

Posted

Just fit independent throttle bodies, with the stacks up through a hole in the bonnet. Would sound epic

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

Yes sack of the plazy inlet manifold and get some shiny velocity stacks on it.

 

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Posted

Kia used the KV6 in the Sedona - is it possible Kia use a different (I.e simpler) inlet manifold design?

 

Does this look like what you have?

 

Admittedly V6 Sedonas aren't exactly commonplace but I was wondering if there was a simple workable (and cheap!) alternative

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  • Like 2
Posted

Kia used the KV6 in the Sedona - is it possible Kia use a different (I.e simpler) inlet manifold design?

 

Does this look like what you have?

 

Admittedly V6 Sedonas aren't exactly commonplace but I was wondering if there was a simple workable (and cheap!) alternative

The Kia version of the KV6 is the older unit ala rover 800 series. It wouldnt work I am afraid

Posted

I'm having a rethink on this rapid proto stuff, having recieved some replacement ball joints I am looking at cobbling them onto the existing PA66 nylon spine. More news when I have summert to show you.

 

Been doing a bit on the 623 though:

 

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Wheelarches are now done and painted. Not a great job on the paintwork and I need to blend it in with some super fine wet and dry but its all one colour and looks presentable.

 

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Managed to swap over the electric window wiring from the melted plug to the 'new' one which revived the electric windows (good result this, my cobbled-up switch pack all works bob-on)

 

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Side skirts refitted:

 

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The PO had fitted god-awful LED interior light bulbs that emitted this bright bluey-white light, just like being inside a fuggin fridge. Why do people do this stuff? Just pointless fiddling. Anyway I swapped them for some standard bulbs. Much better.

 

f52d2f64-4a13-4850-954f-7dbd33474a5b.jpg

 

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I was hoping we'd be ready for an MOT now but while I was rolling about underneath it last week I spotted a damp and very crispy petrol pipe that needs sorting, and one leaky rear shocker. Just bought a new shocker off eBay for 20 quid but its for a diesel one (different part number to the petrol ones). But how different can they be? Hopefully it will go together OK.Yes I know you should replace them in pairs, and I would if i could find a pair for reasonable money but I am not spending £120 on shockers for a £150 car.

 

So thats how far I've got with the 623, Oh aye I bought some new trim for the arch lips to replace these tired efforts:

 

P1080432.jpg

 

Will fit them with a load of vaseline or whatever underneath to help keep the rust away. Almost there!!!!

 

I have seen a local facebook dude advertising a service to claybar, machine polish and sealant-coat an ordinary-sized car for £85 whihc seems a bit too good to be true to me - I might chance £85 on getting this done to brighten it up once it gets an MOT and to se if the guy is any good. Seems like a nice car this and I reckon it would respond well to some 'aesthetic' TLC.

Posted

A £85 machine polish with all the other stuff will be grim i think. Some G3 wool pad and strike through heaven. 

 

Wheel arch looks great, i need to learn to weld

Posted

As soon as I got my Accord (at 8 years old) I took the rubber rear arch lip trims off and threw them away as they were twisted like yours and seemed a rot trap. When I sold the car to Tetleysmooth 6 years later (after 70k miles in all weathers) there was no rot. Conclusion - uncertain whether rubber lip contributes to classic Honda rear arch/bumper interface rot or not, but if you've got new ones you might as well put 'em on for the concours.

Posted

A £85 machine polish with all the other stuff will be grim i think. Some G3 wool pad and strike through heaven. 

 

Wheel arch looks great, i need to learn to weld

 

I dunno, if the guy's already got all the potions and tools it's what, £5-10 worth of materials and 3-4 hours time to do one car?

 

It's not going to be a "detailing world Astra" level job but sounds OK to me - polishing and shit is something I ain't got time for and I could be convinced to drop a moderate sum to get someone to do it for me if I liked the car.

Posted

That's kind of how I looked at it, as long as he doesn't accidentally smash the 600's windows or burgle my house, £85 for someone to spend a morning doing a one-off machine polish job sounds alright to me. Obviously I am not going to get him to do my Veyron.

Posted

The chances are he's a 2-bucket wrongun who actually enjoys polishing cars, and just does other peoples to fund his crippling addiction to buying expensive detailing kit.

Posted

 

 

The chances are he's a 2-bucket wrongun.

That has become my new favourite way to describe someone.

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Posted

After that Astra on the detailing forum, I refer to obsessive cleaners as "57 Coaters".

 

That was an awesome thread that one!

Posted

I have to say the very word 'detailing' brings me out in a rash when used in this context. Whoever thought it up needs a good talking to.

 

It's. Cleaning. Your. Car.

 

Detailing it would mean adding lots of extra complicated bits to it.

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Posted

I must admit i do use 2 buckets. Think i'm on 2 warning points now.

 

 

I don't understand the two bucket system. I know one's to sit on, Oor Wullie style, but I don't know what the second one's for.

Posted

It's a bit of a lottery getting someone to machine polish your motor. I got my local body shop to do my car after some paintwork was done as I thought it would just finish it off nicely.

 

It looked like he hadn't used enough compound or whatever you call it as the paint surface looked burned, if that makes sense. Took me weeks of intermittent hand polishing when I could be bothered to get it ship shape again.

Posted

It's a bit of a lottery getting someone to machine polish your motor. I got my local body shop to do my car after some paintwork was done as I thought it would just finish it off nicely.

 

It looked like he hadn't used enough compound or whatever you call it as the paint surface looked burned, if that makes sense. Took me weeks of intermittent hand polishing when I could be bothered to get it ship shape again.

Could have been a harsh compound that's not been worked long enough. Its not easy to make a good job of machine polishing.

Posted

I don't understand the two bucket system. I know one's to sit on, Oor Wullie style, but I don't know what the second one's for.

 

Second bucket is for warm water rinse, (piss bucket).

Posted

After that Astra on the detailing forum, I refer to obsessive cleaners as "57 Coaters".

 

That was an awesome thread that one!

 

I was disappointed with the job on his Dyson, mind.

Posted

Nearly there with this 600. Last week I had another sesh on it.

 

1) new rear shocker:

 

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Could not find a cheap shocker except one listed for a 600 diesel that was on the bay for £20 delivered. I checked on Rimmers site and seemingly the diesels do have a different part number from the petrols but how different can they be? It seemed like nonsense to me so I did a BIN on it regardless. The seller insisted on having a reg number to cross check (must have trained at Euro Car Parts University) so I went on gumtree, found a diesel one for sale and gave him its reg number. SORTED. Fitting it was surprisingly straightforward and it all went together OK. I wonder if the damping rate is slightly different, if so I am not rreally understanding why that would be,

 

P1080492.jpg

 

New backbox is on. I went to unbolt the old rotten box and immediately the flange broke off the rear of the middle pipe!!!! Had to clean it up and weld a new end on it, luckiily there was some pipe of just the right diameter in the garage somewhere s that turned out quite neat. Rest of the middle box is oK.

 

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Friggin manky old pipes!!!! The main 8mm front-to-rear petrol pipe was rotten at the rear end where it went from a metal pipe to a plastic one. Its clipped in a bracket with the return pez pipe and some brake pipes. all of these looked pretty manky TBH. To my surprise I managed to unclip them without wrecking it all, and scratched the worst of the rust off then rubbed lots of copper grease into em to stop the rust. For the rotten fuel pipe I replaced it with a foot-long section of rubber reinforced hose cable tied in place (sheer class). I think this Rover has been sat in the PO's field for a good while so its a bit grotty underneath although I think my wheelarch weldfest was the first welding its had so its not completely rotted out.

 

Also refitted the rear reg plate with some new double-sided sticky pad things, checked all the lights and windscreen wipers/washers and today its gone in for a test:

 

Screen%20Shot%202016-11-28%20at%2023.47.

 

Failed on a tyre!!!! How annoying, I thought I had made a decent stab of checking it out. I have asked the garage to see ig the spare is serviceable and if so lob it on, if not I'll have to shell out for a new tyre. Still, nearly back on the road!!!! I think once its MOTd I am gonna drive round in this for a few weeks, not because I am particularly gasping to drive a Rover 623 but seeing as I have put all this effort in I might as well see how I feel about the car eh.

Posted

Forgot to mention I also put my new wheelarch edge trims on!!!!

 

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I reckon L_Werfare is probably right about these helping to trap moisture and cause rust. I squidged loads of copper grease into the wheelarch lip before fitting em though and it felt like a good finishing touch to put these on so on they went, nice tight fit too. Sweet!

Posted

I repaired a lot of wheel arches on 5-6 year old 600's back in the late 90s as that rubber kept all the damp in them rottening them out, most owners would just bin them.

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