project 1980 Austin Princess

[Zelandeth]

Hard to tell if that's actually in use there or just set up for the photo - but if that's the same as the tach I used to have (vanished when lent to a friend), it needs a clean white dot/stripe to see and be pointed at the crankshaft pulley directly.

The one I used to have seemed reasonably accurate, the main gripe I had with it (aside from the fact it ate batteries while turned off) was that the resolution was only to the nearest 25rpm and the update rate was only about 2Hz.  It did the job though.

[vulgalour]

It comes with reflective tape.  I'd been told to put the tape on the belt rather than the pulley, that could well be a contributing factor.

[loserone]

Aren't you measuring belt rotations then, rather than engine rotations?

 

I've just caught up a bit with this, this car was awesome before but as usual you're improving it further.  Love the indicators and the spoiler.

[mitsisigma01]

Can't remember whose car or what car, years ago now, a mate had a belt that was badly aligned and chewed belts for fun. Turns out he had the alternator/dynamo mounted the wrong side of the brackets, so ran new belts off alignment, over tensioned, caused stretching, cba to retension to stop squealing, belts jumped off... 

Might not be the same on yours.... 

Just saying worth a look ?

[Asimo]

Yep, if you want to know engine / crankshaft RPM, the reflective stuff goes on the crankshaft pulley. If that is difficult, put the tape on the CAMshaft pulley and double the RPM reading the Tacho gives you for to give you engine / crankshaft RPM.

[vulgalour]

That is what I have done.  I tried painting a blob of white paint on the pulley but the tachometer couldn't see it so I used the reflective tape which stuck very well to the paint, much better than to the pulley, and that worked just fine.

I can confirm rpm is approximately 800.  Although the book wants it at 750, I've never managed to get this engine to idle that low, it seems happiest at 800.  I did check fast idle too, and forgot to write it down so I don't remember what that was, only that it was in range.  Checked the fluids, the dashpot, the bolts on the cam cover (one needed tightening a little more), the head bolts, and anything else that looked like it might affect running and it's now running fine.  It's still running a little richer than I'd like, though not as rich as last attempt, even though I haven't adjusted that at all.  I'm wondering if this is mostly down to the old fuel now because once the car is up to temperature and driving on the private test track it's actually perfectly fine.

Sadly, the Colortune kit I was given is the wrong size for my engine, I need one with much longer and narrower threads to the spark plug inserts, so I couldn't use that to see what was actually happening so I've just tweaked things until I've found a happy balance, working from the base line provided in the book where possible.  I am happy that the car fires up willingly on every attempt, it holds temperature at 3/4 gauge reliably once warm and isn't making any noises or smells it ought not to.  The valves are a little noisier than I'd like still, though they are quietening down compared to when I'd first fitted the new valves and shims, so that's something.

I reckon the car just needs to be driven a bit now, so once I find an insurance policy I'm happy with I'll get it insured and taxed, hopefully this month.

[phil_lihp]

Excellent work, looking forward to the first journey report.  In fact I'm hoping at last that mine might, just might hit the road this weekend, so we'll see who gets there first!  

[somewhatfoolish]

Is it worth renewing the needle and jet? How old are they?

[vulgalour]

It is not, they are practically brand new.  I had the carburettor completely rebuilt professionally with new components not very long ago.

[PhilA]

You probably fixed an air leak in taking it apart. Getting everything sealing well- valves too- will go a long way to altering the mixture, particularly at idle.

[vulgalour]

Today it seemed perfectly happy, not running rich, just normal.  I guess it's just mechanical stuff.

[High Jetter]

Have you had chance to stretch it's legs yet? Kinda shakedown run is what am thunking.

[chompy_snake]

I would suspect that the fuel has gone all weird if it's been sat a good while.

The ethanol in it starts to separate out around the 3 month mark. Might be best to use a non ethanol super (shell do one iirc) if the car isn't to be used for extended periods.

After a 9 month idle spell the bike fuel had gone all weird and started to separate, smoked like hell and stunk rich really bad. Have to wonder if that is the same issue you are having because ethanol additive fuels are SHIT. 

[vulgalour]

That sounds very similar to what's happening here so yeah, it's probably the old fuel that's at least 6 months old now.  I had started using super, which helped with the running on issue I'd had, not sure what the nearest station has in stock though being BP rather than a supermarket they probably have something super-like on tap.

[spartacus]

Most Tesco filling stations have a 99ron super, I'm not sure what it's based on though.

[Tadhg Tiogar]

12 hours ago, vulgalour said:

... being BP rather than a supermarket they probably have something super-like on tap.

BP's super is 97 RON, and having used it once I don't see any advantage. 

[vulgalour]

Victory!

Stuck a tenner of fresh fuel in it, which seemed to help on the way back home.  Also inflated the tyres since they were all down at 21psi which is a bit low even for a Princess.  It's a bit low on oil since the gear change is just a little notchy once its warmed up so I'll have to top that up when I get hold of some oil on my next outing.  Still, it's nice to get out in it and I had forgotten just how much people stare at it.

 

[phil_lihp]

Nice to see it back on the road, well done!

[vulgalour]

And we're off the road again.  Tried to go to get some oil since it was low and I didn't have any in stock and managed to get about half a mile before selecting gears became pretty much impossible.  When I had to turn around I had to resort to turning the car off, selecting a gear, and starting it in gear.  Thinking it was low oil causing the problem - it was still registering on the dipstick - partner took me to get some and we topped it up when we got back.  Still no dice.  Adjusted the bodge-bolt that replaces one of the pins on the gear lever selector ball which tightened up the gearchange, but still couldn't get the car in gear and it was getting worse.   Re-checked the fluid level in the clutch reservoir and it's where it should be, attempted to bleed the system and no air came out but it was clear the clutch slave cylinder is not operating properly, the arm barely moves and now the gear selection is so poor that I can't actually select any gears.

There's a couple of new cylinders on eBay at the moment, Lockheed 4253-311 is the part number.  This is what's on my car so it's what I stick to, even though every listing I've found inside and outside of eBay has it listed for the 2200 and I've been unable to find any listing for the 1700/2000 specifically.  Due to financial constraints, caused by things like insuring and taxing the car yesterday, I haven't got the spare funds for a new cylinder so I've ordered a rebuild kit which has a ridiculously long delivery time on it because of course it does.  Urgh.  We shall just have to see whether or not the rebuild succeeds.  Will have to order some new fluid too, of course, since I don't have any of that in stock either and didn't know I needed to get any when we went to get the oil.

What a fun day.

[spartacus]

That's bad luck, I feel for you mate, I reckon we've all had days like that, not that it makes it any better.

[Mr Pastry]

4 hours ago, vulgalour said:

it was clear the clutch slave cylinder is not operating properly,

Sorry to be a misery, but from your symptoms - if the slave cylinder is working a bit, but not leaking,  I would suspect the master cylinder not the slave.  Is there any improvement if you pump the pedal?

[phil_lihp]

What a pain - you're so close now.  Fingers crossed it's not a major hassle to fix.

[colino]

Don't these have a damper in the hydraulic line, a round metal can mounted up near the bulkhead, that always fail?  By rusting out they let air in and you replace the slave, then the master, before finding it in plain sight. No need to find a replacement, just throw it away and replumb the line without it.  You don't notice any difference afterwards. 

[vulgalour]

It had better not be the master.  Pumping the pedal makes no difference at all.  The last time it went like this it was a collapsed clutch hose and a bust slave cylinder.

[vulgalour]

Sod it, bought a rebuild kit for the master as well.  It's had clutch, slave cylinder, and clutch hose done so I suppose the next weak link is going to be the master cylinder isn't it?  There's no sign of fluid leaking anywhere that I could see earlier in the day, beyond the usual sump plug drip but that's no guarantee of anything if it's only just gone.  It's probably the period of being sat idle combined with the other components in the chain being replaced that's done for it if it is the master.  I'll pop the cap off and get the other half to pump the pedal tomorrow, see what the fluid is doing if anything.  This weekend I'm set to be trying to get the BX's rebuilt injection pump back on anyway so maybe I'll end up using that instead of the Princess.

I do wish cars didn't gang up on you like this.

[vulgalour]

Had another look at this and yeah, it looks like the master cylinder has failed.  Pumping the pedal doesn't noticeably disturb the fluid in the reservoir and the slave cylinder is barely even moving the arm any more.  Oh well.  Once the parts have arrived hopefully I can rebuild stuff and get it working again, I've been unable to find a new master cylinder so far.

[Mr Pastry]

40 minutes ago, vulgalour said:

I've been unable to find a new master cylinder so far.

Midget, Marina or MGB?

[PhilA]

Are you sure it's not related to my GTA?

That doesn't want to stay fixed, either.

 

Phil

[vulgalour]

1 hour ago, Mr Pastry said:

Midget, Marina or MGB?

Did a bit more hunting on this and the one on the Princess looks like it's a Lockheed 4223-150, or AP Hydraulics GMC1007  Like this one from Moss at about £80.

[Mr Pastry]

GMC 1007  also fitted to MGB, 1967 onwards, so there should be a few used ones around, not as risky as a used brake master.