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Princess Anne etc….


Rocket88

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Collected on a trailer yesterday, the mighty Scimitar …. 2.9 Ford efi with four speed auto…..

Was going to train down on Friday and drive it back but a slight breeze and a drop of rain meant mass rail disruption, so a trailer was procured 

6 1/2 hour trip down last Friday (Scunthorpe to Bournemouth) 4 hours back early Saturday morning 

Been out in it today, and all seems to be in order…. Quick and comfortable, surprisingly practical 

6DEC9FF4-2B05-4E1F-B8F5-40550A384431.jpeg

7DC46375-79A3-4D78-A9BD-D3BB5FE94588.jpeg

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21 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

Nice!  Wonder if the 2.9i will make it more economical.  Mine was a 2.8 carb and that did like a drink.

Noticable difference in power and economy over a carb.

 

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Very nice!

A 2.9 cologne lump should be much better to run than the previous 2.8 carb lump, especially injected. I have owned 2 earlier Essex powered Scims. Round town high teens-low 20s in economy but I could get over 35mpg on long runs when I had my SE6a (man o/d) and the SE6 auto one maxed 34 when touring Normandy running on Super.

Best bits of advice I can give through experience:

- grease the trunnions once a month, even if the car’s laid up. I can’t remember the interval (I think it’s 1,000 miles).  They are a bastard to get off if they seize, the PAS will struggle and blow the rack. I think the power steering rack came from a LHD landcrab flipped upside down and back to front to fit. The POs of both mine didn’t grease then so I had to do a front suspension rebuild on both. The front suspension is based on the Triumph TR4-6 double wishbone system with some parts commonality.

- if you get persistent water ingress check the A and B pillars where they join the chassis as it will get in there and rot the bonded in metal. It’s a PITA to cut out, weld up and bond back in. Being a later car a lot of the structure was galvanised so should survive better. If either door sags and the hinges aren’t worn check the a-pillar.

- standard suspension on 6/a/b/8 gets stodgy because the standard springs are not great. Graham Walker (if they are still going) had a range of suspension dampers and springs which gave better road holding.

- tyres. Original 185 HR 14s are limited to one or two patterns with few suppliers. If you go for lower profile for 205/70s you’ll need to ensure your front suspension is in really good order. My second scim had 195/70s when I bought it, the steering was awful until I rebuilt it all, and speedo was 5% reading fast. When I did find some 185 car tyres the car drove so much nicer in terms of steering response and road holding. Can tyres are too stiff and lead to a happy tail.

Good luck with it. I Still want another one.

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56 minutes ago, dozeydustman said:

Very nice!

A 2.9 cologne lump should be much better to run than the previous 2.8 carb lump, especially injected. I have owned 2 earlier Essex powered Scims. Round town high teens-low 20s in economy but I could get over 35mpg on long runs when I had my SE6a (man o/d) and the SE6 auto one maxed 34 when touring Normandy running on Super.

Best bits of advice I can give through experience:

- grease the trunnions once a month, even if the car’s laid up. I can’t remember the interval (I think it’s 1,000 miles).  They are a bastard to get off if they seize, the PAS will struggle and blow the rack. I think the power steering rack came from a LHD landcrab flipped upside down and back to front to fit. The POs of both mine didn’t grease then so I had to do a front suspension rebuild on both. The front suspension is based on the Triumph TR4-6 double wishbone system with some parts commonality.

- if you get persistent water ingress check the A and B pillars where they join the chassis as it will get in there and rot the bonded in metal. It’s a PITA to cut out, weld up and bond back in. Being a later car a lot of the structure was galvanised so should survive better. If either door sags and the hinges aren’t worn check the a-pillar.

- standard suspension on 6/a/b/8 gets stodgy because the standard springs are not great. Graham Walker (if they are still going) had a range of suspension dampers and springs which gave better road holding.

- tyres. Original 185 HR 14s are limited to one or two patterns with few suppliers. If you go for lower profile for 205/70s you’ll need to ensure your front suspension is in really good order. My second scim had 195/70s when I bought it, the steering was awful until I rebuilt it all, and speedo was 5% reading fast. When I did find some 185 car tyres the car drove so much nicer in terms of steering response and road holding. Can tyres are too stiff and lead to a happy tail.

Good luck with it. I Still want another one.

Ref suspension…. This has been converted to coil overs all round…. Rides well. Good advise on the tyres….

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2 hours ago, Rocket88 said:

Ref suspension…. This has been converted to coil overs all round…. Rides well. Good advise on the tyres….

As in McPhersons? 
Should be a coilover with double wishbones as standard!

IMG_3645.png.3b50e4f5efb13c34e3a4eaefe79d2f07.png

 

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