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Collected - 1987 Volvo 740 GL


HillmanImp

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49 minutes ago, DirtyDaily said:

If you've not done the flame trap do that ASAP. They push the seals out constantly as a result of excess crank pressure. You could feasibly replace that and all the oil leaks will sort themselves out. Ask me how I know.

Yeah, will look at that. Ta. Hopefully the weather doesn't get too bad here to allow me to work on it outside. Had a good break this weekend.

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Righto, the weather looks mostly bearable tomorrow so I'm gonna go out and tackle this. 

I suspect that the culprit for the oil leak is the crankshaft pulley seal. When I put it in, I'm sure it went a lot further back than the one I took out, which I thought was odd at the time but there was no way of me getting it out again without damaging it and I didn't have another, so it all went back together.

Has anyone else had this on any vehicle? I assumed (probably wrongly) that you'd push it back until it was seated on something?

Looking online at vids you can see that the ones people are putting in are pretty flush:

Screenshot_20240119-192540.thumb.jpg.a2d510517cb4802c638ba907dd0f5c71.jpg

image.png.d6d462a0f1623e7d13a74c28f1c8890c.png

So this time I'm just gonna lob the new one in about that far and leave it with a gap behind it?

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Thanks. 

I might take it to bits and it could be from one of the other two but I suspect it's this one. Will have a look and see. 

I've got to wrestle off the pulse air system first though to get to the PCV and flame trap, which is gonna eat into my time a bit but hopefully I can get it all done.

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2 hours ago, HillmanImp said:

Righto, the weather looks mostly bearable tomorrow so I'm gonna go out and tackle this. 

I suspect that the culprit for the oil leak is the crankshaft pulley seal. When I put it in, I'm sure it went a lot further back than the one I took out, which I thought was odd at the time but there was no way of me getting it out again without damaging it and I didn't have another, so it all went back together.

Has anyone else had this on any vehicle? I assumed (probably wrongly) that you'd push it back until it was seated on something?

Looking online at vids you can see that the ones people are putting in are pretty flush:

Screenshot_20240119-192540.thumb.jpg.a2d510517cb4802c638ba907dd0f5c71.jpg

image.png.d6d462a0f1623e7d13a74c28f1c8890c.png

So this time I'm just gonna lob the new one in about that far and leave it with a gap behind it?

As long as the inner diameter is sat fully on the surface its supposed to be sealing its fine. The OD is what's holding the seal in, the ID is doing the sealing. As long as the OD is fully in the housing and the ID is fully on the land it seals it doesn't really matter from that point.

Lovely car as well.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Right, update time. 

Saturday before last, I managed to get to the oil separator and flame trap. Bit of a pain as its stuck behind the pulse air system which needed removing first. 

Once out, was very simple to replace with the whole new set I'd ordered as opposed to cleaning the old one. 

The one on there was metal as opposed to plastic like the new one. 

PXL_20240120_104453842.thumb.jpg.9b1585db9afbec031fb547932fc51aed.jpg

Put it all back together and the car ran okay. Result. 

So that's one worry out of the way, so I then took the front to bits to sort out the oil leak. 

Looking at all the oil, it wasn't apparent where the leak was from so I replaced the two top seals and then went to do the crank seal which is the one that I suspected was the issue as it had moved further back than expected when putting it in. 

2 hours later and a variety of bent tools it still wasn't coming out and my enthusiasm was well and truly gone. 

Screwdrivers wouldn't do it, I tried putting some decking screws in, no joy, used some dental tools for scraping plaque that I found in a drawer buy they just bent. Nothing would get it out. 

Looked at one of these:

Screenshot_20240129-092412.thumb.png.679838f87153a94b8c213c9a8b43bb70.png

But the seal would've been too far in to get at it. 

Messaged Volksy for any hints and tips and he suggested I get one of these:

Screenshot_20240129-092517.thumb.png.739f7bec36f4f2c1da3707a54cd9954f.png

So one was ordered and the car was lobbed sort of back together waiting for the weather to clear to give it a go. 

This Saturday, the weather was nice so got up, put my new tool together and the oil seal came out in seconds. 

Halle-fucking-lujah. 

So the new seal was lobbed in, everything was cleaned up ready to be put back together. 

Volksy came ovet to drop off some oil and to do some work on the BIG, although part of the reason was probably to just check what I was doing to avoid me bothering him again. 

Started getting it sort of together, ran it, took it apart again, no sign of oil leaks. 

Result. 

Started putting it back together again, tightened one of the pulleys before releasing the tensioner and the belt slipped, so had to re time it. 

So put it all together again and fired it up. 

Was working fine. Took it for a short drive to the pub. 

No oil leak. 

Came back out of the pub. 

No oil leak. 

Drove back via the shop

No oil leak. Also no rear n/s indicator. 

Okay, think I can relax. 

Yesterday, I popped to Halfrauds for a bulb. They were selling off their bulb kits for £2 each. Bought a few, replaced the indicator bulb got home and lifted the boot floor and found all this. 

PXL_20240128_102858636.thumb.jpg.4ac44f6a98f0ebc921330436f556b13a.jpg

Including 3 cambelts, fan and ps belts, lots of bulbs, Haynes BoL, which I'd bought myself in the last few weeks. If I'd looked here before it would've saved me a few quid. 😂 

So the car is now running...... however it's now not idling right. 

Idle is fine when I start and I assume its on choke but when driving and pulling up to a junction its on the verge of stalling. 

Gonna start looking at the pulse air again and oil separator again in case something isn't right before I look at other things that could be causing it. 

Any obvious suggestions appreciated before I start adjusting it normally. I don't want to adjust the idle and upset a balance if its something else as it was fine before. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 29/01/2024 at 11:28, captain_70s said:

There is a micro switch that is activated when you pull the throttle which could be stuck or dead. Essentially just tells the car if it's at idle or not.

It's over by the big round throttle linkage thing.

I cleaned this up but its still not idling right. Might buy another just in case its bolloxed. 

On 29/01/2024 at 10:15, DirtyDaily said:

Do these have the IAC? Idle air control valve

Believe these need cleaning every now and then. Glad your leaks are sorted!

I can't find one of these. So I'm saying no, but it might be that I can't find it. 

The rough idling was bothering me though, just in case the belt had slipped or something putting it back together so took it all to bits again. 

Cam pulley. 

PXL_20240217_120828386.thumb.jpg.92ac73a3ab1c9b9e6cfb6119bad8549a.jpg

Lines up

Crank pulley

PXL_20240217_120835266_MP.thumb.jpg.ccbb128a08794dcd6325fb48d4c4eec1.jpg

Lines up

Other pulley. 

PXL_20240217_120848491_MP.thumb.jpg.251c2f86a18cd02be8d94627406defd0.jpg

Oh. Its a tooth out. 

Looked okay looking down from the top of the engine when I was when putting it on, took putting my phone down and taking a photo to see. 

So took the belt off again and put it on right. 

PXL_20240217_123939236.thumb.jpg.0d65c7990ad84ff7aa7034cff110fbfe.jpg

Lobbed it all back together. 

No difference. Cars still not quite right. 

Runs okay but just a little off on idle.

What does the 'other pulley' do? I've not done anything untoward by having it a tooth out have I? 

My next step is to redo the oil sepatator as thats the other thing I changed when doing the belt. Have I seated it a bit oddly or something? Might clean the old one and put that back on. 

Obviously means taking off the fucking pulse air again. That needs to go sooner than later methinks. 

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My other guesses then for the rough idle:
Can't remember if it's a carb or injector system you have on this? If it's carb does it need cleaning and similar for the injectors. May be worth seeing the spray pattern on the injectors and throwing some snake oil through them.
Smoke test for leaks on inlet manifold etc.
Timing, see where that is.
It's a red block Volvo and whilst incredible they do run like a bucket of spanners being shaken.
Hopefully you get it sorted!

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On 23/02/2024 at 07:17, DirtyDaily said:

My other guesses then for the rough idle:
Can't remember if it's a carb or injector system you have on this? If it's carb does it need cleaning and similar for the injectors. May be worth seeing the spray pattern on the injectors and throwing some snake oil through them.
Smoke test for leaks on inlet manifold etc.
Timing, see where that is.
It's a red block Volvo and whilst incredible they do run like a bucket of spanners being shaken.
Hopefully you get it sorted!

Its a carb. A pierburg one......

Regarding the timing, I guess its a sensor on this as its a fixed distributor, so might be worth checking that in due course. 

I'll try and get a look at it during the week to redo the pcv before looking at the other stuff. 

A mate is off to a 1980s themed party today so he's borrowing it, as whats more 1980s than a Volvo estate. 

PXL_20240224_092145057.thumb.jpg.682445796f8e3727cd4986d36498ba45.jpg

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