project 1968 MG Midget - Bodywork repair and welding

[Noel Tidybeard]

https://classiccarhub.co.uk/tech/mg-paint-colours.html

[Homersimpson]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

What colour is this? I quite like it and I think this might be what going on mine.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135473567444

 

Is it Riviera Blue? https://www.mgmidgets.com/cars/mg-midget-mkii-in-riviera-blue/

 

[Homersimpson]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

I'm way over my head in panel cost already on this. It's going to have to be a DIY respray. 

The thing is though that the ebay one might look nice but be a load of trouble under the surface, at least with this one you know its solid.

[SiC]

21 minutes ago, Homersimpson said:

The thing is though that the ebay one might look nice but be a load of trouble under the surface, at least with this one you know its solid.

But I could be driving it now! 

I'm very tempted to not put in the reversing lights on mine. 

[Homersimpson]

1 minute ago, SiC said:

But I could be driving it now! 

I'm very tempted to not put in the reversing lights on mine. 

Indeed and then next winter you might be in for another weldathon

When I restored my 1962 MK2 Sprite back in  2000 I replaced the rear panel and it came with flat sections (not indents as such) for the reversing lights, I filled over these to lose them as the car didnt have them originally. 

If your car came with them I would probably fit them unless its a huge amount of work.

Also you mentioned before that your car has the 'wrong' wings with the lower indicators, turns out my 1962 does as well which I only found out because some rivet counter pointed it out at a show and couldn't understand why I wasn't bothered 🤣.

As long as both sides are the same I wouldn't worry, a friend of mine did a midget and he ended up with one of each which did look a bit odd. Not sure he ever realised and I didn't mention it.

[SiC]

12 hours ago, Homersimpson said:

When I restored my 1962 MK2 Sprite back in  2000 I replaced the rear panel and it came with flat sections (not indents as such) for the reversing lights, I filled over these to lose them as the car didnt have them originally. 

If your car came with them I would probably fit them unless its a huge amount of work.

That's the exact same panel on mine. There were two options on that read heritage panel, stamped holed or no stamped holes. The stamped hole version is for the later slimmer bumpers which have the holes in a different place. So I'll need to drill holes for the bumper (something I'm not looking forward to doing) and if I want the reverse lights, cut the holes for them. 

I just find the reverse lights a bit garish especially as they're big on the back. Not sure why they decided it necessary to fit two either!

12 hours ago, Homersimpson said:

Also you mentioned before that your car has the 'wrong' wings with the lower indicators, turns out my 1962 does as well which I only found out because some rivet counter pointed it out at a show and couldn't understand why I wasn't bothered 🤣.

Another thing @PhilA pointed out to me and I can't help but keep noticing is that often Spridgets put two of the same indicator/side light clusters on the front rather than a left and a right. Once you see it, you can't unsee it. Often see it on other cars elsewhere even in museums. Maybe for a while only one side was available?

You can see it on mine even back in 1996 when the car was a magazine feature. It's also how I know most of the mods it has (like seats, etc) have been on it for a while.

[Ian_Fearn]

I remember that issue of PC so well! I was more into Max Power as a teenager but this was one of 3 magazines given to me at the time that got me hooked on classic cars.

Always enjoy progress updates on this.

[SiC]

And the arse is done*!

Probably needs a bit more shaping with filler but I'm happy how the wing panel join under the lights have turned out.

Ground down the underneath welds. Horrible job doing this sort of thing under the car. Even managed to burn a bit of beard hair from a rogue grinding spark.

Paint to protect not to make pretty. I'm seriously considering having the shell blasted to clean off the various layers of paint.

Next job is to drain the fluids down, remove the diff/gearbox/engine and flip onto it's side. Pretty sure I'm just going to get a pack of 2x4 from B&Q and make up a rotisserie. 

 

* Its not quite done. I need to fill these corners out. Not sure if I want to do this way up or when it's on its side.

[Matty]

3 hours ago, SiC said:

I'm seriously considering having the shell blasted to clean off the various layers of paint.

I know it's £££s but after all the hard work imagine how great it would look to bare metal it and then have it sprayed by a pro. 

[EmmaJNation]

12 hours ago, SiC said:

 

 

 

 

Next job is to drain the fluids down, remove the diff/gearbox/engine and flip onto it's side. Pretty sure I'm just going to get a pack of 2x4 from B&Q and make up a rotisserie. 

 

 

The other common alternative is a pair of engine stands, one either end; they’d have to be reasonably beefy ones if the engine’s still in though. But you could sell ‘em afterwards.

[purplebargeken]

Brilliant progress mate, wish I was nearer so I could give you a hand, I really enjoy this type of stuff.

[N Dentressangle]

9 hours ago, EmmaJNation said:

The other common alternative is a pair of engine stands, one either end; they’d have to be reasonably beefy ones if the engine’s still in though. But you could sell ‘em afterwards.

I made one with some scrap wood and a scaffold pole, plus some cheap castors off Ebay

[Matty]

21 minutes ago, N Dentressangle said:

I made one with some scrap wood and a scaffold pole, plus some cheap castors off Ebay

Suprising how much weight  timber will bear long as its braced proper 👍

[SiC]

On 05/01/2025 at 08:35, EmmaJNation said:

The other common alternative is a pair of engine stands, one either end; they’d have to be reasonably beefy ones if the engine’s still in though. But you could sell ‘em afterwards.

I've just twigged who you are! Great to see a Austin/MG/BMC gearbox/A series/etc/etc expert on here. I've moved you immediately to a full member to save you having to wait for post premods.

(I've also been tempted a couple of A30/A35 you've advertised for sale on FB the other month but had to stop myself digging myself deeper with even more cars)

I'm sure @Matty will be along soon with a few questions on his Austin A40 thread 😆

[SiC]

Drained the fluids yesterday in anticipation of pulling the engine, gearbox and diff out. Engine oil looked pristine and almost a waste to drop.

Whoever replaced the oil last (I don't think it was me!) reused the crush washer and it's been dripping the whole time it's been sat here. When I pull the engine, I might have a good look at replacing any gaskets in the silly hope I can make this not drop any oil.

Gearbox fluid however wasn't so nice. 

Glittery bits left at the bottom.

The drain plug didn't look that bad though.

I think it's not tragic and something I can just file on keep a look on. No idea if/when it was last changed either.

Diff fluid was pretty manky too. I need to remember to replace the diff pumpkin gasket too as this drips.

Also undid the prop shaft from the diff ready for the pull.

[SiC]

Today it's been starting to finishing odd metalworking jobs that I've been ignoring for a while in the cabin.

Stuff I need to do is weld around this floor pan as the existing welds I don't trust. Tempted to do this when I have it up on its side.

Finish off this part of the door area. Just a small piece needing putting in that I forgot to do when I was on that side.

This footwell I need to weld the bottom. But access is horrible especially with my welding helmet on. 

Main bits that I actually did today was getting this area cleaned up. Again crap welds that popped off.

I spent a lot of time cleaning this up, removing extra metal and tonnes of filler to hide this previous poor repairs. It also was a fair bit lower than it should have been. Hence probably why filler was put in.

Then weld the two together. I used a jack with a metal box section offcut underneath to push it up so it was flush. Not my best welds - my excuse is that underseal was seeping out of the join and catching fire which messed up my welds. Anyway it's together and won't be seen.

Plus the ol' angry grinder flattens things off to make it more respectable. Once seam sealer, paint, sound proofing and carpet is on then no one will know. But more importantly it's solid now.

 

 

I've mentioned this before but there are large gaps between this box section and the floor. I tried pushing the floor panel up but it wasn't moving. It's welded in on the wheel arch side and not easy to cut out. Not least that it could possibly put the chassis out of alignment if I start chopping too much of the floor off.

However I need to do something about this half inch gap. Other side isn't as large but it's still a good quarter inch.

After deliberating for literally years on this now, I decided to stuff in metal to fill the gap.

Crank my welder up as far as it will go. It's a 200A machine but presumably 90A is about the max you can get out of 0.6mm wire. Also tbh I probably should have made a better ground.

Then run chunky beads along the edge to melt the lot together. This was quite fun running at these power levels tbh. Unlike thin sheet, previously rusty/pitted body metal that blows holes at the slightest arc, this could have a really nice bead controlled down. I had to be quick as it was really melting the metal and I didn't want to blow a massive hole through if it went too much on the thin floor pan.

While not ideal, I'm quite happy with how this has turned out. Certainly better than the previous crap welds that fell off and huge chunks of filler hiding the rest of the gap. 

Been debating whether I want to grind it flat or if that might end up making it look messy and thinning the area unnecessarily. Yeah I know the welds aren't exactly coded welder professional looking, but I reckon once seam sealer and paint is on, it'll be fine. Again it'll be hidden under a carpet too.

Tomorrow I don't know if I'll get much done as have other jobs to do. Not least my tax return and my 330i is demanding attention after popping a headlight bulb and interior fan needing replacing (it's gone noisy). However hopefully I'll have time later in the week to get that gap on the other side done. Then pull the drivetrain. Might need a garage sort out first though so I can dig out my engine crane. 

[EmmaJNation]

5 hours ago, SiC said:

I've just twigged who you are! Great to see a Austin/MG/BMC gearbox/A series/etc/etc expert on here. I've moved you immediately to a full member to save you having to wait for post premods.

(I've also been tempted a couple of A30/A35 you've advertised for sale on FB the other month but had to stop myself digging myself deeper with even more cars)

I'm sure @Matty will be along soon with a few questions on his Austin A40 thread 😆

I think I know who you think I am (Claire Atkinson?), but I’m not her; I’m  just a strictly amateur Spridget-botherer.

[Matty]

7 hours ago, SiC said:

Im sure @Matty will be along soon with a few questions on his Austin A40 thread 😆

Nah. I'm a make mistakes first ask questions later kinda guy 🤣

[SiC]

I need to do an update but keep putting it off. 

So let's make it quick and brief so I can get it out of the way. 

I ended up grinding back the welds above just to take the top off. 

Did the same on the other side as above. Still need to run another bead over the top and then grind back as above.

 

.

 

My local Midget and Sprite Club mailing list had a message come up about some parts available for a small donation. £80 later (as it was quite a lot of bits), I have a whole bunch of useful spare Spridget bits. Chap had spent a lot of his life doing motorsports - much in his mid 60s Sprite converted for trials and hill climbing. He also had a Frogeye that he was looking to sell - I was tempted but I can't justify buying another car at the moment, let alone a classic.

Smooth case gearbox is different to mine (for Frogeye and MK1 Midgets) but as no doubt I may get one in the future, useful to have spare. Surprisingly light things too - easily lifted by one hand.

One bonnet has quick release catches (the chap converted his Sprite for trials and hill climbing) and the other not. My bonnet has had poor welding repairs at the front. Unusually for Spridget bonnets, these aren't rusted.

Not sure what these alloys are but I believe they were on an IMP originally and also fit classic Minis. He had some wheel nuts machined so they can go on a Spridget. I believe they're mid 70s vintage. Not 100% if they'll be put on my Midget but certainly going to keep them in the stash if I have something in the future they'd look good on. Crap paint job and probably need professionally refurbishing really 

An ID on exactly what they are would be useful if anyone knows.

One of the boot lids has been converted to fit two spare wheels. Again for motorsport use.

 

This weekend I spent a lot of time tidying up the garage on, around and under the Midget. The plan is to do an engine pull and flip soon.

I don't think this wing has been put back on in at least 2 years now. Looks more like a car again.

Neither have I been in the engine bay for that time either.

Found a long lost marker pen, finger of a glove and no idea what this seal was for. No doubt I had to buy another after loosing this one.

Drained and pulled the radiator. Hoses are perished and split so I'll need to get a replacements. 

This is just a pile of the larger bits of metal that have been replaced on this car so far. I keep it, not as a reminder, but as a useful store of sheet metal to go back on. Most of it was replaced as complete panels for speed and efficiency, so much is perfectly good condition just with some rust holes/pitting in.

Then spent a good half day cleaning off paint around the footwells in preparation of running welding beads all around. While previously welded, like I've said so many times before, needs redoing as many of the welds are shite.

Despite only removing some of the paint, I got covered with paint dust and grime. Pretty sure I'm going to send this off to be blasted as I don't fancy spending hours upon hours with a wire wheel getting all this off. 

Finally I bought a replacement wing yesterday that my wife picked up today. You can just about see on my existing wing where it's rotted at the back and front. While I have a repair panel for the rear, I don't for the front. It'll take a lot of work to do and this should speed things up. 

Apparently never fitted to a car, just stored. Inside is immaculate but the outside will need some attention. Surface rust that will hopefully clean up nicely. Maybe at worse a very light skim of filler to hide any slight pitting.

At £100 and my wife was passing by anyway, it seemed mad not to grab it. Especially as a new Heritage wing is the best part of £700 now and as the tooling is knackered and old, not necessarily the best fit either. 

Looks like there is a very slight ding around the light ring area too, so again needs a skim of filler perhaps.

Certainly a lot better condition that the one I have on there at the moment. I'll hopefully get a chance to test fit this week.

[SiC]

On 07/01/2025 at 04:49, EmmaJNation said:

I think I know who you think I am (Claire Atkinson?), but I’m not her; I’m  just a strictly amateur Spridget-botherer.

Ah yes I did confuse you! Sorry! However that said I still recognise your name as a moderator of Spridget Facebook groups and other MG forums. 

[Marina door handles]

Nice to see the metal work really coming together, its looking good. 

[SiC]

Would I regret one of these? 🫣

Also plan to get a nice 4 to 1 manifold RC40/RC50 or whatever it is too. 

Don't mind a bit noisy but I want to not go deaf.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173567658648

 

Yesterday I got on with welding up shit welds. Pretty awful work as you do a weld, underseal in the join catches fire messing up the shielding gas and then I have to wait before it burns out till I can carry on. Even some added burn to add to the fun from the paint, oil and grime underneath.

 

Not my best work but it's penetrated and solid. But more grinding happened after this to clean it up. 

I haven't gone all the way down as I don't want to weaken any structural strength from going too thin. Not only will seam sealer, paint and carpet go on but also I think I'll be putting sound deadening on to make it more livable. 

That took a good afternoon worth of work for nothing really much of note. Anyway drivers side is done, passenger next.

[Mr Pastry]

17 hours ago, SiC said:

Would I regret one of these? 🫣

Probably, as it is practically straight through and with no other boxes in the system it will be loud.  I would suggest sticking to the standard Midget system which isn't that restrictive, and probably better designed than it looks.  I had a 3 into 1 manifold on mine which looked nice, but I don't think it would have made much difference on a standard engine.

My first Lotus 7 had a side exit exhaust when I bought it, which was noisy, and fun to begin with, but soon became irritating.  When I replaced it with a full length system the car became quieter and easier to live with, and I could rev it harder, as I didn't have to worry so much about being antisocial.   So it was probably faster with the quieter exhaust.

 

[LightBulbFun]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

Yesterday I got on with welding up shit welds. Pretty awful work as you do a weld, underseal in the join catches fire messing up the shielding gas and then I have to wait before it burns out till I can carry on. Even some added burn to add to the fun from the paint, oil and grime underneath.

out of curiosity when you find yourself welding in such situations, would there be any merit, to going over the area to be welded, with a blow-torch or such, to-in-a-controlled-manner, pre burn out all the crap that might otherwise get in the way or pose a hazard? im guessing theres a good reason that no one actually does this, or people would be doing it, but I am just curious about it  

[Christine]

Using a gasless mig there Sic ? 

[Mr Pastry]

1 minute ago, LightBulbFun said:

out of curiosity when you find yourself welding in such situations, would there be any Merritt, to going over the area to be welded, with a blow-torch or such, to-in-a-controlled-manner, pre burn out all the crap that might otherwise get in the way or pose a hazard?

Good practice is to warm up the underseal etc. enough to soften it, then scraper and wire brush.  Don't set it on fire though as it can swiftly become uncontrollable, which sort of defeats the objective.

[Mally]

Regarding the Imp wheels. I'm pretty sure that when I raced a Mini with Imp wheels I drilled the hubs and fitted  7/16" unf studs and nuts.

Wheel hole size is much bigger. Make sure the machined nuts will do the job.

[Angrydicky]

I’ve never used 0.6 wire on my own welder. Always 0.8” as it’s more versatile and if you need to weld a bit of angle iron or chassis leg you can without worrying about the weld being weak.

The lost seal looks like a caliper piston seal to me.

[JMotor]

13 hours ago, SiC said:

I haven't gone all the way down as I don't want to weaken any structural strength from going too thin. Not only will seam sealer, paint and carpet go on but also I think I'll be putting sound deadening on to make it more livable. 

It'll be amazing how much you'll not notice the welds when the sealer and paint goes on.

I was over critical of some of the areas I had done on my Corsa. Once the PU18 and underbody spray went on I stopped thinking as much about it. It takes your eye off it enough to ignore the weld seams.

Will say again, top work you're doing. It's coming on great.

[Joey spud]

Re the cherry bomb back box. I think they're a bit of fun and might even help the engine breathe better.

On my Minor I went the home brewed route with an Ital manifold and reworked down pipe then added a small flexible joint just to allow the system to  have a bit of free movement. I added two straight through (cherry bomb) silencers all joined up with inch and three quarter tubing.

When I started it up outside the shed at the end of the garden it initially struck me as being too loud but on the road it is about right for just poodling around the village although I've lost the 'moggy parp' on the over run.